Among the famous Nagoya-meshi (Nagoya cuisine), one of the well-known B-grade gourmet dishes is Ankake Spaghetti (thick sauce-covered spaghetti).

This ankake spaghetti was created by the founder of a restaurant called Spaghetti House Yokoi, and I decided to try it while stopping by Nagoya!

I visited the Nishiki branch of Spaghetti House Yokoi, located a 3-minute walk from Sakae Station on the subway.

It was past noon on a Friday, and there were many suited office workers eating lunch. It felt like a restaurant beloved by locals.

This is the menu. At first glance, it’s filled with words that make no sense to non-Nagoya residents. “Mirakan,” “Indian,” “Viking,” and so on… Apparently, each represents a type of topping (what goes on top of the spaghetti).

When I asked the staff, they said the recommendation and most popular item was “Mirakan,” so I ordered that!

First, potato salad and cabbage to prepare the stomach.

After a short wait, here comes the Ankake Spaghetti! So this is what Mirakan looks like.

The toppings consist of stir-fried onions, green peppers, mushrooms, ham, bacon, and red sausages. The quantity and visual impact of the red sausages (the kind you often see in lunch boxes) is particularly striking.

The sauce is tomato-based, seasoned with salt and pepper (with a bit more emphasis on pepper).

Personally, it wasn’t at the level of “incredibly delicious!” (though it was pretty good, I swear! Sorry lol), but it had a flavor that made me want to come back and eat it again from time to time.

More than any other Nagoya-meshi I’ve tried, this gave me the feeling of “I’m eating authentic Nagoya B-grade gourmet!” I imagine Nagoya residents each have their own favorite variations…

Next time, I’d like to try it with different toppings!

立山黒部アルペンルート公式サイト

富山と長野を結ぶ標高3,000m級の北アルプスを貫く世界有数の雲上山岳観光ルート。立山黒部アルペンルートは様々な乗り物を乗り継ぎながら、気軽に大自然が生み出す絶景を楽しめます。

www.alpen-route.com

Transferring between trains, cable cars, trolley buses, and ropeway cars while enjoying the vast natural beauty of the Northern Alps. Walking across the famous Kurobe Dam. The changing seasonal landscape is another highlight.

I previously traveled this Alpine Route round-trip, so here’s my report. (I visited in early October 2015)

The spectacular views from mountain peaks, mountains tinged in red and yellow—it was full of wonderful scenery!

Starting from Tateyama Station, the Toyama-Side Entry Point, via Dentetsu Toyama Station Near Toyama Station

The starting point is Dentetsu Toyama Station, located right next to Toyama Station.

This is the terminal station of the Toyama Chiho Railway line, serving as the Toyama-side entry point to the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route at Tateyama, and also providing access to Unazuki Onsen, where you can ride the Kurobe Gorge Railway trolley train.

Two retro electric trains were parked at the small platform.

Boarding this train, I headed straight to Tateyama Station. The journey from Toyama Station takes about 1 hour.

Arrived at Tateyama Station! Hikers and mountain climbers streamed off the train.

There are also many international tourists, and the station stairs already display signage in Japanese, English, Korean, simplified and traditional Chinese, and even Thai.

Despite being a weekday, Tateyama Station was crowded with visitors. Surrounded by trees tinged yellow, the scenery was already impressive at this point.

Ascending via Cable Car and Bus from Tateyama Station

At the ticket office, I purchased a round-trip ticket to the final destination, Ogizawa (¥13,360).
Though called a “round-trip,” it’s not simply going and returning—it’s a long journey transferring between cable cars, buses, trolley buses, and ropeway cars.

Got the ticket! “TATEYAMA EKI”

Starting here! I was dressed light in just a hoodie, but others appeared quite serious about mountain climbing.

Checking the signage… wait, 3°C? That cold…? Though I wasn’t planning to climb, maybe I should have dressed warmer.

While pondering this, the first cable car arrived. I boarded immediately.

The vehicle itself is angled along the slope, so the seating is characteristically tiered like stairs.

The cable car, carrying many passengers, powerfully climbs a slope that would be impossible to walk up.

In less than 10 minutes, we arrived at Bijodaira. At 475m elevation for Tateyama Station versus 977m for Bijodaira, the cable car had ascended about 500m.

The station had a fairly large souvenir shop and was quite lively.

Next, I boarded a high-speed bus heading to Murodo via Midagahara.

Along the route, there are scenic viewpoints, walking trails, hotels, and various bus stops. The 23km, approximately 50-minute journey is quite long.

Before that, I took a moment to observe the Bijosugis (beautiful cedar trees) standing beside Bijodaira Station. These are truly magnificent trees!

“Beautiful cedar of the sacred mountain, if you have a heart, did you hear my secret prayer?” Chanting this poem three times is said to grant love to anyone, regardless of gender.
Three times? The legend creator could have lowered the bar a bit.

Next, boarding the bus. Before and after this section feature cable cars or trolley buses with their own special characteristics, but this appears to be an ordinary tour bus.

One highlight along the route is Takimidai (waterfall viewing platform), where a distant waterfall is visible. I didn’t capture it well, so please see it in person!

Midagahara, which has a hotel and serves as the entrance to a walking trail, was passed through quickly due to time constraints.

As the bus climbs from 977m at Bijodaira to 2,450m at Murodo, spectacular views of the Northern Alps mountains appear through the windows. My excitement grew!

Arrived at Murodo! Most mountaineers’ destination is here, where the climbing trail begins.

Murodo’s High Elevation Brings Cold, But Exceptional Views! From Daikaenbou to Kurobe Daira

Stepping outside the station revealed this view! The steep face of Tateyama.
But the high elevation means it’s quite cold. Even in early October, temperatures can be in the single digits, so proper winter clothing is necessary.

Many hikers headed toward the steep mountain.

Accidents occur relatively frequently here, and an incident map was posted.
When mountaineering, ensure equipment and physical condition are optimal, and don’t forget to check the weather forecast.

From here, I took a trolley bus to Daikaenbou. Interestingly, there’s another famous viewpoint with the same name in Aso, Kumamoto.
(I recalled when my navigation system suddenly aimed for Toyama when I was trying to reach Aso’s Daikaenbou.)

This trolley bus is unique in Japan—it’s the only place where this vehicle operates. Like trains, it draws power from overhead wires. The sensation is oddly between a train and a bus. Of course, it can only travel on designated routes.

The Daikaenbou stop is relatively small. However, souvenir shops operate normally.

Stepping outside during the brief transfer time revealed this view! Living up to the name “Daikaenbou,” the vista was magnificent.
Though the sun angle was less than ideal at that time, I could see the majestic natural beauty of the Northern Alps.

With limited time, I skipped detailed sightseeing and headed to the ropeway station.

Gazing at autumn foliage-colored mountains far below, we proceed onward. At this evening hour, everything was in shadow. Yet still beautiful.

Arrived at Kurobe Daira. With closing time near, fewer people were around.

Even on Clear Days, Evening Lighting at Kurobe Daira-Kurobe Lake Isn’t Ideal. Morning Visits Recommended

Outside the station, reddened trees and mountains were visible, but the sun angle made them appear suboptimal. This too would be saved for tomorrow.

From here, a cable car descends toward Kurobe Lake.

Kurobe Lake Station is one of the Alpine Route’s premier tourist attractions—you can actually walk across the famous Kurobe Dam.

Passing through a stone tunnel…

There it is—Kurobe Dam!

…But again, poor lighting!

The next day I returned and saw a beautifully lit Kurobe Dam.

With the final connection to Nagano Prefecture’s Ogizawa Station approaching, I hurried through the dam and back to the station.

Kurobe Dam was the filming location for actor Yujiro Ishihara’s movies and programs like Project X. This crucial facility, built through arduous and dangerous construction efforts, supported Japan during the high-growth economic period.

Overnight Stay at Omachi Onsen Area on the Nagano Side

From Kurobe Dam to Ogizawa Station, I took a trolley bus again, crossing the prefectural border between Toyama and Nagano.

From Ogizawa Station, buses transport passengers down to the town below. I had accommodation in nearby Omachi Onsen, so I headed there.

Despite being called an onsen resort, it was quite small and quiet. I walked to the accommodation.

I stayed at the highly-rated Hotel Yume no Yu.

I was momentarily surprised seeing “Hakata” on the reservation, thinking I was booked under my hometown name!

Though I booked an economical plan, I enjoyed delicious meals including sukiyaki and hot springs. After quite a bit of walking, I slept soundly.

Returning to Kurobe Lake – Morning Sunshine Reveals Panoramic Alpine Treasures

The next day, I took a bus again from Omachi Onsen to Ogizawa Station, then a trolley bus to Kurobe Dam.

On a sunny morning, Kurobe Dam was nothing short of spectacular. If you’re planning to visit, pay attention not just to the weather, but also to the time of day.

Retracing yesterday’s route in reverse, I next headed to Kurobe Daira. The weather was excellent, and I could take in an unobstructed view of the connected Northern Alps peaks. Absolutely gorgeous!

Early October, with foliage just beginning, offers a beautiful gradient of red, yellow, and green.

Earlier in the season, everything would be lush green; later, the reds and yellows would be more vivid. It’s a place worth visiting multiple times.

Kurobe Daira sits at 1,828m elevation. The highest peak in Kyushu (excluding islands) is Kujusan in Oita at 1,791m—so this location alone is higher! Truly worthy of the Japanese Alps designation.
The signage read “Take only photographs, leave only footprints,” so I strolled around and captured photos accordingly.

Another charm of Kurobe Daira is viewing the passing ropeway from below.

Boarding the ropeway while gazing at autumn mountains, I headed to Daikaenbou.

At an even higher elevation of 2,316m, the terrace views here were similarly exceptional.

The green visible below is Kurobe Lake. It’s hard to believe this massive lake is man-made.
Steep mountains surround it on all sides.

I hadn’t noticed the day before, but there were also photos of the famous “Snow Valley Walk,” visible April through June. This unique experience of walking alongside towering walls of snow is something I’d like to experience someday.

At Murodo, like the previous day, I peeked at the mountain climbing route entrance, but dense fog obscured everything. Mountain weather changes rapidly.

Taking the opportunity, I also visited Midagahara along the route.

Walking the nature trail alongside well-equipped mountaineers.

The trail appeared to extend quite far inland, so considering my light equipment and time constraints, I turned back early.

Heading back to Bijodaira.

Finally, via cable car back to Tateyama Station. What a fantastic experience!

Final Thoughts

Majestic nature, humanity’s engineering marvel in the form of a massive dam and artificial lake, enjoyable variety of transportation modes—it was a journey that never grew dull.

Among Japan’s tourist attractions, I believe this is truly one worth visiting. Pick a nice weather day and definitely make the trip!

立山黒部アルペンルート公式サイト

富山と長野を結ぶ標高3,000m級の北アルプスを貫く世界有数の雲上山岳観光ルート。立山黒部アルペンルートは様々な乗り物を乗り継ぎながら、気軽に大自然が生み出す絶景を楽しめます。

www.alpen-route.com

Another dish I wanted to try was Taiwan Ramen, a Nagoya-born dish that’s surprisingly unknown outside the region.

I decided to visit Misen(味仙), the restaurant where Taiwan Ramen was invented!

Misen: The Nagoya Chinese Restaurant Famous for Taiwan Ramen

Misen’s main location is in an area called Imaike, but unfortunately it only opens in the evening.

Since I only had time during lunch, I decided to visit the Yaba branch, which is accessible from Nagoya Station and open for lunch.

Here’s the exterior. The color scheme definitely gives off that Chinese restaurant vibe.

The vivid yellow and red signage really makes an impact.

It was well past lunchtime, but perhaps because it was Saturday, the place was packed.
The sight of multiple Chinese chefs lined up, all working their woks, was impressive.

Once seated, they brought out what looked like a beer bottle.
“Wait, I haven’t ordered anything yet…” I thought, but it turned out to be ice water. The bottle was filled with well-chilled water.

Being a Chinese restaurant, they have a wide variety of dishes on the menu, but of course I ordered the Taiwan Ramen.

They also have something called “Taiwan Ramen (American),” which is a milder version. Taiwan, American, and eating it in Japan – quite the international combination!

Spicy and Rich Taiwan Ramen – A Delicious Energy-Boosting Dish

And here it comes – Taiwan Ramen!
Chili peppers, garlic chives, garlic, and ground meat. Looks like an energy booster for sure.

The broth is soy sauce-based with a rich, deep flavor.
It’s incredibly delicious, likely from the essence of the seasoned meat and vegetables dissolved into the soup.

The noodles are medium-thin. Neither too thick nor too thin, they pair perfectly with the rich, flavorful broth.

Experience Authentic Taiwan Ramen at Its Birthplace, Misen

I had thought “Isn’t Taiwan Ramen just spicy ramen?” but I was pleasantly surprised by how delicious it was.

Given the quality of this dish, I imagine their other menu items are also excellent, so it would be worth visiting just for regular Chinese cuisine as well.

If you’re ever in Nagoya, I highly recommend giving it a try.

To be specific, this refers to the curry served at Bandai Soba, a stand-up eatery located in the Bandai City Bus Center (spelled “Shitei” instead of “City”).

It has been featured on Japanese TV programs like “Himitsu no Kenmin SHOW” and “Ametalk!”.

The typical image of a soba stand at a bus terminal is something focused more on speed and price than taste.

What’s more surprising is that their signature dish isn’t soba, but curry — a rarity that had piqued my curiosity. Could it really be that good?

After trying it myself, I found that the vivid yellow appearance came with a depth of flavor that absolutely justified its reputation.

Access and Opening Hours for Bus Center Curry (Bandai Soba)

Bandai Soba, where the famed “Bus Center Curry” is served, is located on the first floor of the Bus Center Building in the Bandai City commercial area.

It takes about 10 minutes on foot from Niigata Station. If you opt for the bus, it’s about 3 minutes riding time plus a 3-minute walk. However, considering waiting times, walking might be just as quick.

If you choose the bus, the easiest option is to take one from platforms 0 or 1 at the Bandai Exit.

It’s not very convenient to swing by quickly after visiting Niigata Station, so be sure to plan accordingly.

From Niigata Airport, you can take a limousine bus to Niigata Station and transfer from there, or take a less frequent route bus that stops directly at Bandai City.

Opening hours: 8:00 AM – 7:00 PM. Open year-round.
*Check ahead to confirm, just in case.

Entering the Stand-Up Eatery “Bandai Soba” at Bandai City Bus Center

After arriving at Niigata Station via limousine bus from the airport, then taking a local bus and walking, I finally reached the Bandai City Bus Center.

Just a little past the entrance on the first floor, I found Bandai Soba.

The shop was renovated in 2020, so aside from its retro signage, everything looks quite new.

To the untrained eye, this looks like just another soba stand attached to a bus terminal. Who would guess this is the home of the renowned “Bus Center Curry”?

However, you’ll spot magazine features about the curry and see original goods and souvenirs — so anyone will quickly realize that curry is the star.

Here’s the menu with prices.

The shop’s signature curry costs 480 yen for a regular size. A large is 560 yen, and a mini is 390 yen.

The portions are generous, so consider mini as a standard serving, regular as large, and large as extra-large. If you just want a normal meal, the mini curry is more than enough.

Other options include plain soba or udon for 320 yen, and kitsune versions for 360 yen — all very affordable.

First, purchase a meal ticket. Since we had more food planned shortly after, we ordered just one mini curry to share.

You can also purchase tickets here for takeout and souvenirs. You can even buy curry roux to take home — lucky locals!

Once we handed over our ticket, the mini curry was served in just 15 seconds. Despite being a local specialty, it truly lives up to its reputation for speed and affordability.

Tasting the Bus Center Curry – My Honest Thoughts

The standout feature of Bandai Soba’s curry is its vivid yellow roux. It’s thick in texture and comes topped with a generous portion of red pickles (fukujinzuke) by default.

Although it’s labeled “mini”, the portion is roughly equal to a standard serving.

The curry is made by simmering pork bone broth with carrots, onions, and pork — and wow, it’s delicious!

It starts off smooth and slightly sweet, but a pleasant spiciness follows.

The umami from the pork bone base really stands out, giving this curry a bold, unique flavor you won’t find elsewhere.

It’s easy to see how this becomes an addiction for locals.

Was the famed Bus Center Curry really that good?

Absolutely. I was thoroughly impressed.
Delicious, cheap, and fast — nothing more to ask for.

Bus Center Curry Souvenirs

The flavor left such a lasting impression that I couldn’t resist buying souvenirs at Niigata Airport.

I grabbed a retort pouch version (apparently 1.5 servings like the shop) and Bus Center Curry-flavored rice crackers.

I haven’t opened them yet because they feel too special to eat, but I’ll update once I do.

You can buy these souvenirs not only at Bandai Soba, but also at Niigata Station and Niigata Airport gift shops.

They’re available online too, so if you can’t make the trip, check the web store!

But did you know that Niigata is also home to a wide variety of delicious local ramen?

One standout feature is the “Five Great Ramen of Niigata,” a set of regional styles each with its own unique personality.

During this trip through the Kaetsu region (northern Niigata including Niigata City), we decided to try one of the Five Great Ramen: the Niigata Rich Miso Ramen.

We visited the popular spot near Niigata Station, Ramen Toyoko Sasaguchi Branch.

Despite its thick and rich appearance, the flavor is mellow rather than salty—and it even comes with a dilution broth from the start!

The deep umami of Echigo miso clinging to the ultra-thick noodles made for an unforgettable bowl.

Getting to Ramen Toyoko Sasaguchi

Ramen Toyoko Sasaguchi is about a 10-minute walk from the south exit of Niigata Station.

Though it requires a bit of walking, it’s one of the more conveniently located branches among Toyoko’s locations offering rich miso ramen.

The closest bus stop is “Sasaguchi 2-chome.”

Parking is available in front of the shop for five vehicles. If it’s full, there are many coin parking lots around the station.

Relationship Between Toyoko Group and the Sasaguchi Branch

The main Toyoko store is located further south in an area called Shichikuyama.

There are five directly managed branches: the Shichikuyama Main Store, Riverside Chikyu Store, Aeon Mall Shibata Store, Atago Store, and Shirone Store. The Sasaguchi branch is a sister store run by a different management.

(Source: Niigata Ramen | Original Niigata Rich Miso Toyoko | Japan)

We’re not sure how different the taste may be, but being recognized as a sister store suggests that it faithfully follows the Toyoko tradition.

At the very least, its popularity rivals that of the official branches.

By the way, the name “Toyoko” is said to come from the idea of becoming the “Yokozuna (sumo grand champion) of the East,” in contrast to Komadori in the west (considered the origin of Niigata’s rich miso ramen).

It’s not related to Tokyo’s Toyoko train line or the Toyoko Inn hotel chain.

Miso is the Star, But the Menu Offers Much More

Ramen Toyoko Sasaguchi is located just off the main Benten Street heading south from Niigata Station.

The shop features table seating, sunken floor seating, and a counter—clean and cozy like a local eatery.

In addition to their signature rich miso ramen, the menu includes soy sauce and salt ramen, as well as set meals that might tempt you to order everything.

On the table, you’ll find pepper, vinegar, soy sauce, chili flakes, and chili oil.

Rich Yet Smooth Miso Broth with Thick, Chewy Noodles

Here comes the Miso Ramen (700 yen)! Alongside it arrives a huge ladle and a separate bowl of broth.

The noodles are hidden beneath cabbage, bean sprouts, and a big slice of chashu pork. The ramen is served in a mortar-style bowl—a signature Toyoko touch.

This is the dilution broth often served with Niigata-style rich miso ramen. The miso broth is so thick that some people might find it too strong or salty—hence the optional broth to lighten it.

One sip of this obviously rich-looking soup… wow, it’s amazing!

Unlike other miso ramen I’ve tried, this one has a unique umami and aroma. It’s bold and flavorful, yet smooth and not overly salty.

I personally didn’t feel the need to dilute it at all.

The thick, straight noodles hold up perfectly against the intense broth. They’re designed to avoid absorbing too much soup, but still manage to deliver a satisfying, chewy bite.

The large slice of chashu is so tender it practically falls apart—an ideal match for the soup.

The cabbage and bean sprouts are lightly seasoned so they don’t overpower the broth or noodles, but they add a nice crunch. Plus, it’s great to get some vegetables in!

I finished nearly the entire bowl—even the thick soup! Niigata rich miso ramen is no joke.

My wife had the Spicy Meat Ramen, which uses the same base broth but offers a different flavor experience.

It was said to be pre-diluted, but still tasted just as rich as the regular miso ramen.

It comes topped with spicy stir-fried minced meat. Once mixed in, the sweet and spicy sauce blends into the soup—absolutely delicious!

Yes, You Can Order Ramen Toyoko Online!

Ramen Toyoko also has an online store where you can order their ramen frozen and shipped to your home.

According to reviews, many people say, “It tastes exactly like the restaurant!”

Just a moment...

touyoko-niigata.stores.jp

Once I make space in my freezer, I’ll be placing an order myself. Can’t wait!

I had heard of the famous Murakami beef, but it turns out Murakami is also well-known for its salmon. Records show that salmon was offered to the imperial court during the Heian period, over 1,000 years ago.

“Murakami, the City of Salmon” has a long history. According to historical texts, salmon was paid as tax to the Kyoto imperial court during the Heian period. The Miomote River, where salmon migrate, was the first place in the world to succeed in artificial salmon propagation. The people of Murakami have cherished and preserved their salmon culture with deep gratitude.
History of Miomote River and Salmon | Sennen Sake Kikkawa

Murakami is also the hometown of Olympic snowboarders Ayumu and Kaishu Hirano, who competed in the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics.

The most famous traditional salmon shop in this salmon town is Sennen Sake Kikkawa.

The current president, Mr. Shinji Kikkawa, is the 15th-generation owner. Their salmon dishes are made without any additives or chemical seasonings, using only natural ingredients, fermentation, and aging processes.

You can’t come to a place with this much history and not eat the salmon!

We rented a car from Niigata City and visited both Sennen Sake Kikkawa and its directly operated restaurant, Sennen Sake Idutsuya!

Access to Sennen Sake Kikkawa and Idutsuya

Both “Sennen Sake Kikkawa” and “Sennen Sake Idutsuya” are located near the Murakami City Hall.

It takes about 25 minutes on foot from JR Murakami Station, so driving or taking a taxi from the station is recommended. The two locations are only about a 2-minute walk apart.

Tourists can use the parking lots of the city hall and nearby facilities. It’s helpful to check the tourist parking guide on Murakami’s official website:

お役立ち便利MAP｜村上市観光協会 -鮭・酒・人情 むらかみ-

新潟県村上市公式観光情報サイト。泊まる・食べる・見る・買う・体験するなどの定番情報のほか、四季折々の季節情報・地元ならではの旬のお知らせ満載です。

www.sake3.com

We used the parking lot at the Murakami Local Museum (Oshagiri Hall).

By car, it takes about 60–80 minutes from Niigata Station or Niigata Airport.

Reservations Recommended for Sennen Sake Idutsuya

The restaurant Sennen Sake Idutsuya, operated by Kikkawa, is highly recommended to visit with a reservation.

With a reservation, not only is entry guaranteed, but rice will also be freshly cooked according to your reservation time.

When I called, I was told the last order is at 14:00, but the available reservation slots are only at 11:00 and 11:15. Without a phone reservation, you can sign up on the same-day reservation sheet from 9:30 AM on the day.

For details including phone number, see the link below:

[https://www.murakamisake.com/idutsuya/

Over 1,000 Salmon Hanging in the Aging Room at “Sennen Sake Kikkawa”

We arrived a bit early, so we decided to explore inside “Sennen Sake Kikkawa” before our reservation time.

On the way, we saw a sign at Murakami Elementary School saying, “We cherish our salmon culture.” Salmon is clearly deeply rooted in the community.

A picturesque traditional house with a large “salmon” sign on the curtain. This is Sennen Sake Kikkawa.

Actress Sayuri Yoshinaga apparently did a photoshoot here for JR East’s “Otona no Kyujitsu Club” campaign. Of course, we took similar photos!

Inside, there were all kinds of salmon dishes—some I’d never seen before—like ikura (salmon roe), salt-cured salmon, and more.

A must-see is the open-aging room in the back. As soon as you enter, you’re hit with the rich aroma of salmon—and an incredible sight. Over 1,000 salmon hanging from the ceiling. Simply overwhelming!

These salmon have sustained the people of Murakami for over a thousand years. Let’s be grateful as we enjoy them.

Enjoying Salmon Cuisine at “Idutsuya,” a Historic Inn Once Visited by Matsuo Basho

At 11:15, our reservation time, we walked the short 2-minute distance from Kikkawa to the restaurant Sennen Sake Idutsuya.

Like Kikkawa, the exterior has a traditional atmosphere. Though the restaurant opened in 2017, it feels like it’s been here much longer.

This was originally an inn dating back to the Edo period, where even Matsuo Basho once stayed. Since March 2017, it has been operated by Kikkawa as “Idutsuya.”

Upon entering, you’re greeted by an irori (traditional sunken hearth). If you come without a reservation, you’ll write your name here. Since we had reserved, we were led straight in.

The interior combines a Western space with a grand piano and a traditional Japanese room with a Buddhist altar. We were seated in the Japanese-style room. (Photo shows the Western side)

We had already placed our orders when making the reservation. Soon, the pot of freshly cooked rice arrived.

With reservations, they time the rice to finish cooking just in time. At this point, it’s still steaming—leave it to rest for now.

Course options include 8 dishes (2,475 yen), 11 dishes (3,520 yen), 14 dishes (4,620 yen), 19 dishes (5,720 yen), and 22 dishes (6,820 yen). Many unique salmon dishes you’ve likely never seen—just reading the menu is exciting.

There’s also a premium “Hara-ko Don (Salmon Roe Bowl)” course for 3,895 yen.

We had pre-ordered the Hara-ko Don and 8-dish course.

The Best Salmon Dishes: Don’t Miss the Soy-Marinated Ikura and Salt-Cured Salmon

The first 5 dishes in my premium set arrived: from the right—grilled salmon in soy, prosciutto-style hand-formed sushi, simmered salmon head, dried salmon milt, and dashi tea.

My favorite was the soy-marinated grilled salmon. The flavor of the marinade combined perfectly with the grilled salmon—absolutely delicious.

Every dish had its own unique charm.

This is “sakebitashi kawa odori yaki” (grilled sake-soaked salmon skin) from the 8-dish course. Crunchy and fragrant—a dish that makes you crave sake. (Though I refrained due to driving.)

Salt-cured salmon made using traditional Murakami methods. Grilled over charcoal before serving.

It’s technically salted salmon, but the depth of flavor is far beyond anything I’ve had before. Possibly the best ever…

Around this time, the rice had finished steaming. The staff served it for us.

This is Niigata-grown Koshihikari rice, known as the best in Japan, cooked in a clay pot. Made by a master rice farmer from neighboring Sekikawa Village.

Just eating the rice on its own is heavenly. The sweetness and umami come through with each bite.

And here is the soy-marinated ikura (salmon roe) from Sennen Sake Idutsuya (Kikkawa).

Only the most flavorful ikura from late October to mid-November are selected and marinated in a special soy sauce. Since we visited in February, this was likely flash-frozen. The grains are huge!

The contrast between the rice and roe is beautiful. Even before eating, I was smiling at the sight.

Ikura has a unique umami that draws fans, but the soy-marinated ikura at Idutsuya is on another level. Unbelievably good.

I’ve had plenty of ikura in my life, but this was the best I’ve ever tasted.

The flavor of the roe and the specially prepared soy sauce complement each other perfectly.

To end the meal, we had koji pudding. Made without sugar, it had a gentle, natural sweetness.

Though it was a bit far from Niigata City, I’m really glad we made the trip. Thank you for the meal.

Final Thoughts

The salmon miso-zuke (miso-marinated salmon) in the course was delicious too, but the soy-marinated ikura left the biggest impression.

It’s seriously delicious. If you ever get the chance, try it—whether as a single dish or in a bowl.

The salt-cured salmon is also a must-try. Honestly, there’s too much to recommend. I had the chance to enjoy a level of salmon deliciousness you rarely get in daily life. The rice was also incredible.

This is a place worth traveling for, even from afar. If you’re ever in Niigata for a trip or business, make sure to stop by!

Currently, the restaurant operates as the associate hotel of Hotel New Otani, called Hotel Italiaken.

As Miora struggled with the thought of returning to Italy, those around her encouraged her, and in Nishiboridori—where Hotel Italiaken now stands—Japan’s first Italian restaurant opened, founded by an Italian.

The elegant Western-style building named “Italiaken,” suggested by Osui, and the delicious cuisine originated at this time. Italiaken became a cutting-edge restaurant of its era, praised as “Niigata’s Rokumeikan.”
Story of Italiaken | Hotel Italiaken

While searching for accommodation on a trip to Niigata, I happened to find Hotel Italiaken.

Since this hotel has its roots as a traditional restaurant and is also an associate hotel of Hotel New Otani, I expected it to be quite expensive, but (perhaps due to the times) it was surprisingly affordable, comparable to a business hotel.
About 8,000 yen for two people, with breakfast included.
*Prices may vary depending on the season.

Located in Niigata city center, it’s convenient for sightseeing and business, and you can enjoy a satisfying traditional Western-style breakfast in the morning!

Access and Transportation to Hotel Italiaken

Hotel Italiaken is located across the Shinano River on the ocean side of Niigata Station.
It’s near the western edge of the city area extending toward the ocean from Niigata Station.

It takes over 30 minutes on foot from the station, so realistic options besides car are the Niigata Kotsu bus (about 15 minutes including walking) or a taxi (just under 10 minutes).

The bus departs from the Bandai Exit of Niigata Station, and you can take any bound for Furumachi.

Most buses should be heading toward Furumachi, but to be safe, check Google transit or ask the driver “Does this go to Furumachi?” to confirm.

If coming from Niigata Airport, it’s about 20 minutes by taxi, or by bus via limousine bus to Niigata Station or Bandai City Bus Center, then transfer.

Grand Atmosphere in the Lobby and Entrance

This building with distinctive stained glass windows is Hotel Italiaken.
At night, the illuminated Italian flag makes it especially easy to find.

Upon entering, you are greeted by a large chandelier and high ceilings.

The lobby next to the entrance also exudes this grand atmosphere, reflecting the hotel’s tradition.

Koi carp originating from Ojiya City, Niigata Prefecture. Each scale is beautifully colored.

Check-in is conducted at this front desk. The staff was very polite.

Going up the escalator right by the entrance, you’ll find an exhibition space about the history of Italiaken.

There are displays of dishes and signs used during the old building period, and photos of author Osamu Dazai’s visit.

Well-maintained Rooms and Facilities, Though Not New

We stayed in a double room.

Though not new, the room was well-maintained and had a nice atmosphere.

From another angle.

It came with a modern washlet toilet, so that was reassuring. There was an old, mysterious telephone above the toilet paper…?
I didn’t pick it up to avoid disturbing anyone, but it looked quite old, so perhaps it’s just left there without connection.

It’s a typical unit bath, similar to a business hotel.

Amenities are well provided, so you shouldn’t have any issues.

Equipped with an electric kettle, coffee, and tea.

There’s also a refrigerator. On closer inspection, it’s a National brand (an old Panasonic brand)!
It keeps things cool fine, but at night the compressor noise was a bit loud, so I unplugged it.

View from the room on the 8th floor. There are few tall buildings around here, so it’s open and refreshing.

Breakfast at Italiaken – A Must when Staying Here

Italiaken offers room-only plans, but it’s definitely recommended to choose a plan with breakfast included!

Depending on the plan, breakfast can be added for under 1,000 yen per person, meaning you can enjoy a serious Western-style breakfast in the morning for about the price of a business hotel.

Breakfast is served at the restaurant “Marco Polo,” located next to the escalator on the 1st floor.

Alongside classic items like salad and sausages are freshly made-to-order omelets by the chef and rice balls made with Niigata-grown rice.

Special omelets where you can choose ingredients and sauces.

Rice ball demonstration corner and Niigata specialty tare-katsu (sauce-covered deep-fried pork cutlet).

One of Italiaken’s signature dishes: beef curry.

Yasuda Yogurt, made from raw milk from Agano City, Niigata Prefecture. I went to their official store afterward.

Being greedy with buffet-style meals, I wanted to try everything.
I couldn’t eat it all but this is the result of my attempt to sample as much as possible.

The rich and deeply flavorful European-style beef curry. I understand why they sell this as a souvenir.

The chef’s freshly made omelet with traditional demi-glace sauce. Soft and perfect.

Tokamachi Tsuma Soba. Since the other dishes are fairly rich, this refreshing soba is a perfect balance.

The crispy tare-katsu and rich yogurt were all delicious. I was stuffed.

Shortly afterward, for lunch, I ate a salmon course and ikura (salmon roe) rice bowl at “Sennen Zake Izutsuya” in Murakami City, so although I really enjoyed it, my stomach was at its absolute limit…

Final Thoughts

Great location, nice rooms, affordable, and delicious breakfast. What else could you ask for in a hotel?

I didn’t have it at breakfast, but I really wanted to try the meat sauce which has been preserved for 147 years. I’ll definitely have it next time.

If you’re staying in the center of Niigata city, Hotel Italiaken is highly recommended!

Located fairly close to Niigata City and its airport, Tsukioka Onsen is renowned for its sulfur-rich hot springs. As someone who loves the distinct smell of sulfur, it was an ideal destination for me.

Upon researching accommodations, I found that the Shiratama no Yu brand, run by Hotel Senkei, was quite popular.

The brand operates three ryokans: “Senkei”, “Kahou”, and “Bettei Koshinosato”. They all looked equally appealing, but I ultimately chose to stay at Shiratama no Yu Kahou.

In short, it was an incredible experience.

The room offered beautiful views, the food was delicious, the interior was expansive and detailed, and the sulfur-scented hot spring was truly relaxing. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay.

If you’re looking for a great onsen ryokan in Niigata, I highly recommend this place!

Aesthetic Japanese Interiors with Fine Art and Decorations

We booked the “Premium Standard Plan” and stayed in a “Low Bed Deluxe Japanese Room” (16 tatami mats).

The total cost for two people was ¥58,520, but with an instant discount from Yahoo! Travel, we paid ¥52,670.

Our stay was in February, during the snowy season. There’s a parking area right in front of the entrance.

Kahou is a large ryokan with 108 rooms. The entrance hall is spacious with a high ceiling.

Beyond just the size, the interior is filled with elegant art and decor, making even a casual stroll through the premises enjoyable.

You can also view a traditional Japanese garden from the windows—covered in snow, it’s a peaceful sight.

The interior is truly magnificent…

Carpets, lighting, an open atrium, and hanging artwork all contribute to a luxurious atmosphere.

Spacious Room with Simmons Beds and a Panoramic Snow View

After enjoying a welcome drink at the entrance, a young staff member guided us to our room.

We stayed in the 16-tatami “Low Bed Deluxe Japanese Room”. When we slid open the sliding door, we were welcomed by a stunning snow-covered landscape.

Being from Kyushu, where it rarely snows, this view was especially captivating for me.

Relaxing in the room while enjoying this view felt incredibly luxurious. Just note that once it gets dark, the view disappears—so make the most of it during the day.

The room featured twin Simmons beds within a Japanese-style setting—spacious and comfortable.

The toilet had all the essentials, including a washlet and sink.

There were two sinks, and amenities were well-stocked.

For those unable to use the large public bath, there’s also a private bathroom in the room.

Overall, I was extremely satisfied with my stay at Kahou. My only minor gripe was the outdated design of the men’s yukata.

That said, there’s a rental corner at the entrance offering various yukata and samue for ¥100, and I later discovered a samue set already provided in our room.

Sulfur-Rich Outdoor Onsen with Snowy Views

Eager to enjoy the view before dark, I headed to the public bath soon after checking in.

The entrance to the bath area is decorated with elegant furnishings such as urns and ivory.

Men’s and women’s baths are separated by a lounge with a kid’s play area—perfect for families waiting for each other.

There were vending machines and free drinks,

And even a shrimp miso soup station for post-bath relaxation.

Although the indoor bath didn’t have a strong sulfur aroma, the outdoor bath absolutely did—it was the kind of hot spring experience you dream of. According to a sign, the outdoor bath uses newly sourced spring water.

While bathing, you can gaze at the snow-covered landscape outside, making for a memorable soak.

Delightful Kaiseki Dinner Featuring Niigata Delicacies

Dinner was offered at 6:00 PM, 6:30 PM, or 7:00 PM. We chose 7:00 PM.

The meal was served in a private dining room—ideal for a relaxing experience even if not in-room.

Though it was a standard plan, the dishes were luxurious: crab, amberjack, premium wagyu beef, and more.

The plating was artful and elegant.

Scallop tempura, abalone, seaweed onion fritters…

Naturally, in Niigata—the land of rice—we enjoyed local sake as well.

And crab in white miso broth…

Sashimi included yellowtail, tuna, flounder, shrimp, and surf clam.

Wagyu beef hotpot.

We had more sake—“Mukantei” from Kikusui Brewery in Shibata, Niigata.

Grilled crab shell.

Teriyaki sablefish, winter radish, noppe soup, and Koshihikari rice from Niigata.

Dessert was a gorgeous plate with matcha tiramisu, fruit, cake, and ice cream—deliciously satisfying.

After dinner, the snow was falling heavily. The garden was beautifully illuminated—some dining rooms even had garden views, which I’d love to try next time.

Buffet Breakfast with Japanese, Western, and Chinese Options

The next morning, this was our view. Even with a cloudy sky, it was picturesque.

Snowfall from the night before made the entire property even more magical.

Breakfast was served in a different banquet-style hall.

A spacious hall suitable for weddings or conferences—plenty of room to avoid crowding.

In addition to standard breakfast items, there were Niigata specialties like tare-katsu, Chinese dishes, and a seafood rice bowl station. Everything was delicious.

On our way out, staff even cleared the snow from our car—a thoughtful final touch.

Access & Basic Info: Shiratama no Yu Kahou, Tsukioka Onsen

Shiratama no Yu Kahou is about a 40-minute drive from Niigata Airport or 45 minutes from Niigata Station.

From Niigata Station, take the JR Hakushin Line to Toyosaka Station (20 mins), then board the Tsukioka Onsen shuttle bus (20 mins).

For shuttle bus schedules and details, see the official site:

Access｜Shiratama no Yu Kahou Official Website

Final Thoughts

Every part of the stay—from the room to the food to the baths—was flawless. Though it’s a bit far from Fukuoka, I’d love to visit again someday.

If you’re planning a trip to Niigata and looking for an onsen ryokan, Shiratama no Yu Kahou is an exceptional choice.

I heard that many locals prefer Furaibo over other options.

Even though I’ve had Nagoya-style “Tebasaki” (chicken wings) a few times before, I was still a beginner.
So, I took this opportunity to learn the proper way to eat Tebasaki!

Furaibo: A Must-Visit Spot for Nagoya-Style Chicken Wings

The Furaibo branch I visited is located near JR Owari-Ichinomiya Station.
Furaibo is a famous Aichi-based chain, and this is one of its many locations.

This is Furaibo’s entrance.

Next to the entrance, there’s an aquarium.
Maybe they also serve fresh seafood?
Well, I guess keeping a chicken farm outside the restaurant wouldn’t be an option. 😂

At the table, I found a guide called “How to Eat Tebasaki Properly”.
I’ll check it out once the wings arrive!
(Sorry for the glare in the photo…)

First, let’s cheers with a cold beer!

Next, a Tako (octopus) salad!
Both the octopus and vegetables were fresh.

Now for Miso Kushi Katsu! (Deep-fried pork skewers with miso sauce)

Inside, you’ll find juicy pork belly and green onions.
The miso sauce is rich but not overpowering—absolutely delicious!

Four Ways to Eat Chicken Wings—Which One Do You Prefer?

Finally, the star of the show: Tebasaki!

A huge pile of wings! This is five servings.

Time to check the official eating guide and try them out.

Method A: Bite the meat off the bone all at once.
Method B: Break it in half at the joint and eat each piece separately.

📝 My Review:
– A: Too hard! I couldn’t get the meat off cleanly.
– B: Too ordinary. Nothing special.

Hmm… not quite satisfying. Let’s try the next methods.

Method C: Twist and pull the bones out first, then eat.
Method D: Bite into the wing and pull out the bones with your teeth.

📝 My Review:
– C: Also difficult—I couldn’t get the bones out properly.
– D: Took a few tries, but I finally got it! This is my method of choice.

Alright, let’s break it down step by step!

Step 1: Grab a delicious-looking Tebasaki.

Step 2: Tear off one end of the wing.

Step 3: Bite down, remove the bones… but wait—I failed!
The bone ended up in my mouth. 😅

Let’s try again!

Success! When done right, it’s super satisfying. 😆

I also tried Teba Gyoza (chicken wing dumplings), which were piping hot and delicious!

And to my surprise, they even served sashimi—which was incredibly fresh and tasty!

Visiting Nagoya? Don’t Miss “Furaibo” for Authentic Tebasaki!

If you’re visiting Nagoya or Aichi, Furaibo is a must-visit spot.
Give it a try and experience the real taste of Nagoya-style chicken wings!

Also, if you have any pro tips for eating Tebasaki, please let me know!

When it comes to Miso Katsu, the most famous place is definitely “Yabaton.”

I decided to visit their main store in Yabacho!

“Yabaton Yabacho Main Store” – Marked by Its Iconic Pig Character

Using my iPhone map to navigate, I made my way to “Yabaton Yabacho Main Store,” and soon enough, I spotted it. That sumo-wrestler-style pig logo is unmistakable.

By the way, this pig character is called “Boo-chan.”

The entrance is hard to miss with its large sign.

Once inside, I took a seat at the counter, where two chefs were busily preparing Miso Katsu.

Above the counter, there was a menu.

Above that, there was a plaque explaining the origins of Miso Katsu. Interestingly, it turns out that Miso Katsu actually originated in Mie Prefecture, not Nagoya!

Here’s the menu.
The two most popular dishes at Yabaton seem to be “Waraji Tonkatsu” and “Teppan Tonkatsu.”

They also offer other dishes like Katsu-don and Hire Tonkatsu.
I decided to go with the Waraji Tonkatsu half-and-half version (half with Miso sauce and half with regular Tonkatsu sauce).

Enjoying a 1.5x-Sized Waraji Tonkatsu with Nagoya-Style Miso Sauce

After a short wait, my Waraji Tonkatsu arrived!
It comes with rice and miso soup.

Look at this glistening Miso sauce-covered Tonkatsu!
The front half is Tonkatsu with a simple sauce, which is also great.

You can also enhance the flavor by adding mustard and other condiments available at the table.

The Tonkatsu is rich and fatty—time to dig in!

The pork itself is delicious, and the well-balanced Miso sauce enhances its flavor beautifully.

When I think of Nagoya-style Miso sauce, I usually picture a thick, rich sauce, but the one here is surprisingly smooth. It pairs perfectly with the fatty Tonkatsu.

If You Visit Nagoya, You Have to Try Yabaton’s Miso Katsu

I always associated “Nagoya’s specialty” with Yabaton, and after visiting, I can confidently say that its reputation is well deserved.

However, for those with smaller appetites, be aware that the Waraji Tonkatsu is quite large!

By the way, right across the street is a CoCo Ichibanya (Coco Ichi) location that I visited previously. This particular branch offers a unique “Aka Miso Curry,” exclusive to this store.

You can go for the classic choice at “Yabaton” or try something different at Yabacho’s Coco Ichi. The choice is yours!

A restaurant dedicated solely to pork miso soup is rare enough, but I had heard this place serves absolutely amazing food.

While planning a trip to southern Niigata, I noticed a starred location on Google Maps.

That’s when I realized this restaurant was right in the area I was visiting. It was fate—I had to go!

Even with some concerns about bringing a two-year-old, I managed to enjoy the incredible tonjiru.

The Famous Tonjiru Tachibana in Myoko City, Niigata

We arrived at Tonjiru Tachibana during lunchtime on a weekday.

Despite it being a weekday, the long line was a testament to its popularity.

We wrote our name and party size on the sign-in sheet at the entrance and waited. Takeout was also an option.

I was briefly alarmed by the “No Photography Inside” sign near the entrance, but I was relieved to learn that photographing the menu and food was allowed. Good to know!

The main dish is the Tonjiru Set Meal, priced at ¥1,070 for a regular serving, ¥1,370 for large, and ¥970 for small. The small rice option is ¥1,020.

They also serve tonjiru ramen, pork soba, and more.

You can also order tonjiru à la carte, along with other items like grilled meat or fried rice.

They even offer Kanzuri, a fermented condiment that’s a local specialty of Myoko. If you’re visiting, it’s worth a try (I bought some as a souvenir!).

We ordered the Tonjiru Set Meal with small rice (¥1,020) and Ladies’ Set B (half portion of tonjiru ramen, rice, a small dish, pickles, and fruit for ¥950).

The restaurant provides high chairs for kids, so families are welcome. Still, I was on edge, worried about my two-year-old getting restless or noisy while we waited for our food.

The Sweet Onion Flavor of This Tonjiru Is Unforgettable!

Here’s the Tonjiru Set Meal with small rice.

The tonjiru is served in a large bowl, typically used for ramen or udon.

The rice, called *Inochi no Ichi* (Dragon’s Eye), is a rare variety, as you’d expect from rice-famous Niigata.

The tonjiru, made with pork, onions, tofu, and white miso, is simple yet incredibly flavorful. Let’s dig in!

The first impression is “sweet and delicious!”

The sweetness and umami of the onions, which are said to be used in quantities equivalent to 1.5 onions per serving, make a strong impact. The pork fat, miso, and tofu harmonize beautifully, with the tofu adding balance to the rich flavors.

Everything comes together to create a pork miso soup unlike anything I’ve had before.

This is truly amazing. Absolutely delicious.

Here’s Ladies’ Set B.

The tonjiru ramen uses a different type of miso, which changes both its color and flavor significantly.

According to the official website, it’s made by combining miso ramen and tonjiru.

The miso ramen is mild and comforting. It’s delicious too.

…But it doesn’t quite compare to the impact of the tonjiru.

I’d recommend trying the tonjiru first if it’s your first visit or ordering multiple dishes if you’re coming back for another round.

Access and Basic Information for Tonjiru Tachibana

Located in Myoko City, part of the Joetsu region in southern Niigata Prefecture, Tonjiru Tachibana is easy to find.

The restaurant is about a 20-minute walk from Kita-Arai Station on the *Echigo Tokimeki Railway Myoko Haneuma Line*, which boasts one of the longest railway names in Japan.

For those taking the Kubiki bus line operated by Kubiki Transportation, the closest stop is Inazuka Bus Stop.

That said, accessing the restaurant by train or bus can be a bit tricky, so driving is the most convenient option.

It’s about a two-hour drive from Niigata City or Toyama City and just over an hour from Nagano City.

The restaurant offers parking for approximately 20 cars right next to the building.

Basic Information for Tonjiru Tachibana

*Note: Information is accurate at the time of writing. Please check the official website for the latest details.*

If You Love Tonjiru, Tonjiru Tachibana Is a Must-Visit

I regret not being able to savor my meal more leisurely, as I had to eat quickly before my child became restless. Even so, the food was absolutely fantastic.

As a resident of Fukuoka, I can’t visit often, but this is definitely a restaurant I want to return to someday.

I might not be able to recreate the same taste, but I’m inspired to try making a pork miso soup at home with minimal water and lots of onions.

Nagoya is known for its culinary delights like miso katsu, miso-nikomi udon, kishimen, and hitsumabushi.

However, among these, hitsumabushi was the only dish I hadn’t yet experienced authentically.

So, I asked a friend who lives in Nagoya to take me to the renowned hitsumabushi restaurant, Atsuta Horaiken!

Visiting the Famous Atsuta Horaiken Jingu Branch for Hitsumabushi

We initially aimed for the main branch in Atsuta, but it turned out we ended up at the Jingu branch instead. Oh well, no problem!

The restaurant’s traditional Japanese architecture was impressive.

The entrance: let’s step in.

We were seated in a tatami room on the second floor. Since we arrived just as the restaurant opened, it was relatively empty at first, but it quickly filled up.

According to my local friends, there’s almost always a queue at this restaurant. We got lucky!

Here’s the menu. While unagi dishes are the main attraction, they also serve sashimi, tempura, and other options. The hitsumabushi costs ¥3,100—a luxurious lunch indeed.
(at Sep 2012. Now 2024’s price is ¥4,400.)

The menu also explains how to enjoy hitsumabushi:

1. Divide the hitsumabushi into four portions.
– **First bowl:** Savor the unagi as it is.
– **Second bowl:** Add condiments (green onions, wasabi, and nori).
– **Third bowl:** Pour dashi broth over the unagi and condiments to make a type of ochazuke.
– **Fourth bowl:** Enjoy it in your favorite way.

What a brilliant idea—four delicious experiences in one meal!

Interestingly, the wine menu was given equal prominence as the unagi dishes. Perhaps this area is known for its wine?

A little while after ordering, the condiments (green onions, wasabi, and nori) arrived. Of course, they’re not much use on their own, so we waited a bit longer.

Hitsumabushi: Three Unique Ways to Enjoy Unagi Over Rice

Here it is—the hitsumabushi!

It’s served in a traditional wooden rice container (ohitsu) that exudes a sense of history.

Inside, the unagi and rice are densely packed…

…and it looks absolutely delicious!

It’s served with kimosui (a traditional clear soup with eel liver)—a perfect pairing for unagi.

Following the instructions on the menu, I divided the hitsumabushi into four sections.

**First bowl:** Enjoy the unagi as it is.
Pardon my poor presentation—it tastes much better than it looks in this photo!

The grilled unagi is incredibly flavorful, with a smoky aroma and savory tare sauce complementing the richness of the eel itself.

**Second bowl:** Add the condiments (green onions, nori, and wasabi).

The condiments enhance the flavor without overshadowing the original taste of the unagi.

**Third bowl:** Pour dashi broth over the unagi and condiments to create ochazuke.
This angle was surprisingly hard to photograph!

It looks appetizing—and it is!

The lighter flavor of the dashi makes for a refreshing finish compared to the previous rich servings. This version is delightful too.

**Fourth bowl:** I chose to revisit the second style, with condiments added.

This way, I could enjoy the unagi’s natural flavor alongside the balanced addition of condiments.

One of my friends preferred the first bowl style, as it lets you savor the pure taste of the unagi.

Enjoy Hitsumabushi in Three Ways at Atsuta Horaiken

The idea of discovering your favorite style and revisiting it at the end is truly clever.

While it’s a bit pricey for everyday dining, it’s a must-visit spot when hosting guests or sightseeing in Nagoya.

The flavor was exceptional, and I highly recommend it to anyone visiting Nagoya!

This large onsen ryokan is conveniently located just under a 10-minute walk from JR Echigo Yuzawa Station.

Hotel Futaba serves as an excellent base for winter skiing and snowboarding trips, as well as for sightseeing destinations like Kiyotsu Gorge in other seasons.

It’s a traditional onsen ryokan that caters well to families with children.

Hotel Futaba: A Classic Ryokan at Echigo Yuzawa Onsen

This time, I stayed at “Hotel Futaba” in Echigo Yuzawa Onsen, a large and well-known ryokan.

This long-standing ryokan has been in operation since 1949 and is within walking distance from JR Echigo Yuzawa Station.

After driving up the slope to the entrance and parking, we headed into the hotel.

The lobby exudes the atmosphere of the Showa and early Heisei eras. It seems convenient for hosting large groups, as there were two reunion reception desks set up on this day.

After completing check-in, we selected our favorite yukata from the yukata corner and headed to our room.

A Room with a Private Open-Air Bath

We originally booked a standard Japanese-style room, but it seems we were upgraded to one with a private open-air bath.

The room features beautiful tatami flooring, with a sunken kotatsu-style table in the back, making it very cozy.

The amenities, including a refrigerator and kettle, are simple but sufficient.

The toilet comes equipped with a washlet.

The sink area was thoughtfully stocked with amenities, including toys for children.

The indoor bath includes a washing area, so you can rinse off before soaking in the private open-air bath.

The private open-air onsen bath is accessible 24 hours a day, allowing you to relax anytime.

If you’re in the mood for a larger bath, the hotel also offers three types of public baths.

While the water in the public baths feels less like traditional hot spring water, you can enjoy various themed baths such as herbal and cave baths, giving them a spa-like quality. The “Sky Bath” (Paparak and Mamarak) also boasts great views.

Meals at Hotel Futaba

Hotel Futaba’s Dinner: Highlighting Niigata’s Fresh Ingredients

Dinner at Hotel Futaba is served in a private dining room, which is a significant plus for families with small children.

Unlike buffet-style or shared dining spaces where kids might get restless, a private room provides a relaxing environment to enjoy your meal. (Note: This might depend on the package you book, so check in advance.)

Child-sized seating is also available.

Cheers with a refreshing beer to start the meal!

The menu highlights Niigata’s specialties, such as “Snow-Aged Carrots,” branded “Koshino Chicken,” and locally grown Koshihikari rice.

Here’s a closer look at the delicious dinner we enjoyed during our stay:

Freshly prepared sashimi, including natural bigeye tuna, sea bream, and needlefish.

A hearty hot pot made with local ingredients, featuring Mochi pork and mountain vegetables in a soy sauce-based broth.

The hot pot was accompanied by “Karamushi Udon” as the final course. This udon is unique to the region and incorporates powdered young leaves of the karamushi plant into the dough.

Of course, no meal in Niigata is complete without sake. A wide selection of local brews is available to pair with your meal.

I chose the “Minatoya Tosuke (Junmai Daiginjo),” which had a refreshing aroma and a deeply satisfying flavor.

Another standout dish was the “Hoba-yaki Koshino Chicken with Butter Miso.” The rich butter miso perfectly complemented the tender chicken.

The meal also included “Karei Yuuan-yaki” (grilled flatfish marinated in soy sauce and citrus).

And, of course, freshly cooked Koshihikari rice from Yuzawa Town, a Niigata staple. The sweet and rich flavor truly shines in every bite.

Dessert included a selection of sakura-flavored salted almond jelly, matcha roll cake, and fresh orange slices.

Even with our 2-year-old occasionally moving about, the private dining setup allowed us to enjoy our meal at a relaxed pace.

Buffet-Style Breakfast

The next morning, breakfast was served buffet-style in a large banquet-style hall.

The spread included both standard breakfast items and unique local dishes that showcased Niigata’s culinary heritage.

While dinner featured Yuzawa-grown Koshihikari rice, breakfast offered South Uonuma-grown Koshihikari, allowing guests to indulge in this premium rice variety as much as they wanted.

High chairs and child-friendly food options, including potatoes, yogurt, and fruits, ensured that even little ones could enjoy the meal.

As someone who loves trying everything, I couldn’t resist overloading my plate with the enticing options available.

Review Summary: A Classic Stay at “Hotel Futaba”

The “Echigo Yuzawa Onsen: Hotel Futaba” blends the charm of a traditional Japanese inn with thoughtful modern updates. Despite its history and nostalgic touches, the inn has adapted well to meet the needs of contemporary travelers, from private dining options to child-friendly amenities.

During our stay, we were especially impressed by the hospitality of the staff, many of whom were younger yet highly professional and attentive. The hotel caters to a wide range of guests, including families, seniors, and solo travelers, ensuring a comfortable experience for all.

Whether you’re visiting Yuzawa for a winter ski trip or exploring Niigata’s lush landscapes in other seasons, Hotel Futaba is a reliable and welcoming choice. Its central location, thoughtful amenities, and excellent dining options make it a memorable base for your adventures.

Recognized as a family-friendly accommodation, it is certified as a ” Welcome Baby Inn” by Miki House.

After staying there, I can confidently say that it’s not just ideal for families with kids but for people of all ages. The high quality of the hotel is evident.

The premises are clean and spacious, featuring upscale buffet dining, hot springs, and saunas.

In this post, I’ll give you an in-depth review of my stay at Belnatio, including details about the room and my overall impressions, along with photos.

A Resort Towering Over Atema Kogen Highlands: Belnatio

Situated in the southern part of Niigata Prefecture, Belnatio stands in the Atema Kogen Highlands.

When we arrived by car, I was amazed by its grandeur, thinking, “Is that Belnatio? Wow!” I regret not being able to capture its entire magnificence in one shot.

Spanning 510 hectares, the resort boasts 143 guest rooms, a golf course, wedding halls, banquet facilities, and even a kids’ room, making it a massive, full-scale resort hotel.

The lobby is also spacious and offers a sense of openness.

The hotel has received accolades from Michelin, TripAdvisor, Rakuten Travel, and more.

Reviews across different platforms are overwhelmingly positive.

The large gift shop offers a wide variety of souvenirs, beverages, and more, all at reasonable prices comparable to those at convenience stores or other souvenir shops.

Here’s the Koshihikari Beer I picked up to enjoy in my room.

The hotel offers a variety of activities and tours, ensuring that guests can enjoy their stay no matter how many times they visit.

A grand piano sits above the lobby, where jazz concerts and other events are held daily.

A Family-Friendly Hotel with Excellent Amenities for Kids

Belnatio is certified as a ” Welcome Baby Inn” by the Miki House Childcare Research Institute.

True to its reputation, the hotel is equipped with facilities and services that are extremely helpful for families with children. This was a big relief for us as we traveled with our 2-year-old.

At the top of the stairs from the lobby is a room stocked with children’s supplies.

Guests can freely borrow items such as clothing and strollers.

There are also diapers in various sizes and other amenities available, making it possible to stay here even if you forget to pack some essentials.

Kids’ room equipped with various toys

Our child had a fantastic time playing here, and we were lucky to have the space to ourselves at the time, making the experience even better.

Adjacent to the kids’ room, there’s a nursing room and diaper-changing facilities.

The spacious gift shop even features a Miki House corner.

While we stayed in a standard guest room, the hotel also offers Baby Rooms that are specifically designed for families with young children.

A Look Inside Belnatio’s Twin Rooms

Our family stayed in a standard twin room.

The room featured twin beds, a sofa, and a table, with high ceilings that gave a spacious and comfortable feel.

The bathroom, toilet, and washbasin were combined into a single unit.

Though the hotel features a large communal bath, we used the in-room facilities to bathe our 2-year-old, as the public bath seemed a bit too challenging at this stage.

A small closet area before the bathroom made it convenient to store clothes or spread out suitcases.

Opposite this area was a multipurpose desk with a mirror, perfect for getting ready or preparing a coffee. The lower shelves housed cups and a mini-fridge.

The window offered views of Belnatio’s lush greenery, complete with walking paths running through the trees and lawns. While not a spectacular view, the scenery was calming and refreshing.

Buffet-Style Dinner: Elevated Flavors and Presentation

Dinner at Belnatio is served buffet-style in the restaurant “Cosmos.” Depending on your booking plan, there may also be options for course meals in another restaurant.

As we waited to be seated, the staff warmly welcomed us and asked, “Do you like meat?” They provided recommendations on some must-try dishes, making it easier to decide among the many options available.
(The staff at Belnatio stood out for their friendliness, efficiency, and professionalism throughout our stay.)

The dining area is spacious and has a more sophisticated ambiance compared to typical buffet setups, with attention to lighting and furniture.

Highlights include freshly prepared steak, sushi, and dishes featuring local Niigata ingredients. The selection is so vast that choosing what to try first can be overwhelming.

Both the presentation and flavors are a step above the typical hotel or ryokan buffet, making each dish as pleasing to the eyes as it is to the palate.

Among the dishes we tried were roast beef and a local specialty called “Kalbi Kuppa” (a beef short rib soup) from Tokamachi. Unfortunately, I didn’t capture more photos as our child fell asleep, and we seized the quiet moment to eat quickly!

The food quality and variety were impressive, making the experience far more enjoyable than standard buffets. With no strict time limits, we were able to relax and savor the meal.

Alcoholic beverages, including sake, are available with an all-you-can-drink package for 75 minutes at 2,200 yen. For an additional 1,100 yen, you can upgrade to a premium package that includes the full drink menu. Though we opted out this time, I was tempted by the Niigata sake dispensers!

For young children, the hotel offers a fun initiative called the “I Love Vegetables Card.” Kids who eat three types of vegetables can report to the staff and win a prize from a capsule toy machine. Our child was thrilled to win a miniature toy car!

Breakfast Buffet: Award-Winning Dishes

Breakfast is served in the same venue as dinner, though seating extends to an adjacent area for the morning service. This arrangement is particularly helpful for families with young children who may be more boisterous during breakfast.

The breakfast spread includes classic options like salads, bread, and sausages, alongside unique items like Nagaoka Soy Sauce Ramen and Chinese-style congee with shellfish broth.

Freshly prepared omelets and rice balls are also available.

The dining area is bathed in natural light during the day, making for a cheerful and relaxing atmosphere.

Both dinner and breakfast buffets feature kid-friendly sections with easy-to-eat dishes for younger guests.

From the variety to the quality of the dishes, every meal at Belnatio feels special.

For breakfast, I enjoyed both Nagaoka Soy Sauce Ramen and the Chinese congee—a great start to the day!

One standout dish at the breakfast buffet was the “Grilled Rice Ball Dressed with Mushroom Broth and Crab Sleeves,” which earned national recognition by winning the “Breakfast Festival 2019” competition hosted by Rakuten Travel.

Another highlight was the Yasuda Yogurt, a beloved product made by a local Niigata company, which added a perfect finishing touch to the meal.

Belnatio: A Destination Worth the Journey

From its exceptional food to its wide range of activities and facilities, the Atama Onsen, Tōma Kogen Resort, Belnatio provides an exceptional experience for visitors of all ages. Whether you’re traveling as a family, couple, or solo, this resort has something for everyone.

For families like ours, the child-friendly amenities made our stay not only comfortable but genuinely enjoyable. The little details—like the vegetable reward cards for kids—highlight the thoughtfulness of the hotel’s approach to hospitality.

Though it’s a long journey from my home in Fukuoka, I would love to visit again once my child is a bit older. Belnatio is truly a destination worthy of making a trip just to stay there.

My wife, who had been researching Niigata specialties, found this and told me, “It’s supposed to be delicious!”

To be honest, food souvenirs from trips often leave only a mild impression, something along the lines of “it was good.” But this salted salmon was different.

It was incredible. Truly exceptional.

I couldn’t keep this gem to myself, so I decided to share it in this article.

A Popular Delicacy from Niigata: Salted Salmon

Here’s the packaging of the salted salmon.

It’s a product from a company called “SanKo,” which primarily deals in processed seafood products.
(Note: This is a different company from “SanKo Seika,” famous for snacks like Mini Salad and Snow Rice Crackers, which is also based in Niigata.)

While Niigata is known for Murakami City, often called “Salmon Town,” the salmon used in this salted salmon is Atlantic salmon sourced from places like Norway.

They use only the fattiest belly portions of the salmon, marinate it with salted koji (fermented rice malt), and sprinkle it with salted salmon roe.

The Umami of Salmon Enhanced by Salted Koji: Perfect with Rice or Sake

Here’s the salted salmon served on a plate.

The dish consists of chunks of rich, tender salmon marinated in salted koji, accompanied by glistening salmon roe.

The moment I tasted it, I was stunned. “What is this? It’s so good!” I couldn’t help but exclaim over and over. This is simply an outstanding delicacy.

When you think of “shiokara” (salted seafood), squid usually comes to mind. But unlike squid shiokara, this isn’t overly salty or overpowering.

It’s like the essence of salmon flavor taken to another level with salted koji. Honestly, words can’t fully capture how good it is.

It pairs perfectly with both rice and sake.

A Must-Try Souvenir from Niigata—Available Online Too

This may not be the most photogenic dish, but trust me—it’s incredibly delicious. I urge you to give it a try.

If you’re planning a trip to Niigata, you can easily find it at airports or train stations. Alternatively, it’s available online via Amazon, Rakuten, or SanKo’s official store.
(Note: Rakuten and the official store offer free shipping for orders over 5,400 yen.)

This spot, counted among Japan’s three great gorges, features sheer valleys with tunnels through which visitors can enjoy breathtaking views that appear at intervals.

The entire tunnel through Kiyotsu Gorge was artistically renovated in 2018, making it both visually appealing and photogenic.

It’s a bit out of the way from the city, but definitely a place worth visiting once!

“Kiyotsu Gorge” A Scenic Spot in Southern Niigata

Located in Tokamachi City in the southern part of Niigata Prefecture, Kiyotsu Gorge is near the border with Nagano and Gunma Prefectures, and about a 30-minute drive from JR Echigo-Yuzawa Station.

We drove down from Niigata Airport in a rental car. The direct drive takes just over two hours.

It’s about a 5-minute walk from the closest, first parking lot to the tunnel entrance.

There are second and third parking lots too, but they are farther from the entrance (the third is the farthest).

Along the way, you’ll enjoy the gorge and the river flowing between its cliffs.

There’s also a café and souvenir shop. It’s a great spot to take a break or do some shopping.

Walking Through the Artistically Renovated Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel

Here is the entrance to the Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel.

Unlike typical vehicular tunnels, this one is designed specifically for pedestrians to enjoy the sights of Kiyotsu Gorge.

In 2018, during the “Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale,” the tunnel was transformed into an art piece called “Tunnel of Light” by Chinese artist Ma Yansong.

Admission is 1,000 yen for adults and 400 yen for elementary and middle school students (prices as of June 2024).

A modern ticket machine that accepts various cards and electronic payments like PayPay, Edy, and iD is available.

The tunnel changes color as you proceed, creating a wonderful atmosphere. It makes you want to keep taking pictures.

Enjoy taking photos without disturbing other visitors.

There are spaces along the tunnel where you can take a brief rest and view exhibits about the geology and history of the area.

Further on, the changing lights provide opportunities for different photo atmospheres.

The path to the back is designed for enjoyment.

Art and Nature Merge at This Photogenic Spot

There are three places where you can see the outside gorge from the tunnel. Look up at the steep cliffs and rocks, and capture some photos.

The lookout point is dotted with convex mirrors that represent “droplets.” They reflect the surrounding scenery, creating a unique ambiance.

After passing through a tunnel bathed in pale blue light…

…you arrive at the endpoint of the Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel, the ultimate scenic and photo spot, known as “Light Cave.”

The ground is covered with water, and the tunnel walls are clad in semi-mirrored stainless steel, reflecting the majestic outside scenery together.

Give each other space to capture your favorite photos.

When it’s crowded, it might be difficult to take photos alone, but capturing multiple silhouettes can also be enjoyable.

How to Get to Kiyotsu Gorge

Kiyotsu Gorge is located near the southern tip of Niigata Prefecture, in the city of Tokamachi.

By car, it’s about a 2-hour drive from Niigata City or Nagano City, and about 1.5 hours from Maebashi City.

If using public transportation, take the Minami-Echigo Tourism Bus “Express Morimiyano Line” from Echigo-Yuzawa Station for about 30 minutes.

Get off at “Kiyotsu Gorge Entrance” bus stop, and from there, it’s about a 30-minute walk to the entrance of the Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel.

Be prepared for some uphill and downhill walking, and it’s a substantial walk inside the tunnel as well, so it can be quite challenging.

It’s generally better to visit by car or motorcycle.

【Basic Information about Kiyotsu Gorge】

※Please check the official website for the latest information.