Among all 47 Japanese prefectures, Okayama was the one I’d never properly spent time in (my apologies). Taking advantage of a trip to Hiroshima, I decided to extend my journey to Kurashiki.

I thought Hiroshima and Okayama prefectures being neighbors would mean short distances, but Hiroshima City is located quite far west in the prefecture, making the trip longer than expected.

When I think of Okayama cuisine, the first dish that comes to mind is demi-katsu don (breaded pork cutlet with demi-glace sauce over rice).

Research revealed that demi-katsu don originated in Okayama City, but there’s also a popular restaurant in Kurashiki called Kappa that serves it. I had to check it out.

With strong determination to eat the local specialty, I visited the renowned Kurashiki establishment “Kappa” and enjoyed their demi-katsu!

Kappa – A Demi-Katsu Specialty Shop Near Kurashiki Station and the Historic District

Located south of Kurashiki Station, between the station and the historic Kurashiki district, lies the Kurashiki Ebisu Shopping Arcade—a covered shopping street.

Amid rows of retro shops, you’ll suddenly encounter stylish restaurants and eateries, making it quite an interesting area.

In one corner of this arcade stands Meishiro Tonkatsu Kappa, one of Kurashiki’s most popular restaurants.
Review sites give it consistently high ratings.

The specialty is undoubtedly the tonkatsu set with demi-glace sauce.
They also offer hamburger, shrimp tempura, and other dishes. Though the exterior appears traditional Japanese, it’s actually a Western-style restaurant.

It was around 1 PM on a weekday, but the waiting list showed over 10 groups ahead. The surrounding shopping arcade is quite quiet, yet this restaurant has an abnormally high crowd density.

Next to the shop is a room labeled “Kappa” and “Waiting Room.” Is this also part of the restaurant?

The glass window displaying food samples shows signs made by the shop or local children. Charming!
Wait, they even have parfaits?

A coffee-shop-like room that apparently used to be a separate restaurant is now open as a waiting area.
Wait times can be substantial depending on the day and hour, and there isn’t much space in front of the shop, so having this space is greatly appreciated.

However, continuing to wait looked like it would take well over an hour.

Since I came to sightsee, not to waste hours waiting, I decided to return during evening service.

Arriving Right at Opening Might Avoid Lines – Evening Service is the Sweet Spot

After taking a quick look at the historic Kurashiki district, I returned exactly at 5 PM when evening service begins.
Great! Hardly anyone around, and I can get in quickly!

Only about two groups were ahead of me, and I got a comfortable counter seat.
By the time I left, the place was nearly full, but compared to the lunch rush, it was manageable. Evening service right at opening might indeed be the strategy!

Here’s the Kappa menu.
The signature “Meishiro Tontei” (with rice and miso soup) is ¥1,400 (as of November 2019). They also offer hamburger, other cuts of katsu, and croquettes.

For light eaters or those not too hungry, there’s a Mini Tontei (¥1,000).
Being quite hungry, I ordered the regular Meishiro Tontei.

The restaurant appears to be run by two women, who supervise what looks like male staff in their late teens to twenties.

Crispy Breading, Tender Pork, and Exquisite Secret Demi-Glace Sauce

After about 20 minutes’ wait, the long-awaited “Meishiro Tontei” arrived. Unlike a rice bowl, here the tonkatsu with demi-glace sauce and rice come on separate plates.
Demi-glace-sauced tonkatsu with cabbage, rice, and miso soup.

Freshly fried katsu with demi-glace sauce is bound to be delicious. The question is just how delicious.

The pork’s cross-section shows an appetizing hint of pink. Let’s dig in!

The breading is slightly thick and crispy, the pork is tender with no gaminess.
But what deserves the most praise is the demi-glace sauce.

Demi-glace sauce on hamburgers or katsu often feels somewhat lacking to me. That’s why I usually go for Japanese-style sauce instead.

But Kappa’s sauce is absolutely exquisite, matching the katsu perfectly without any sense of insufficiency.
Slightly sweet but not overly so, with the umami of meat and vegetables infused throughout. It pairs amazingly with rice too!

According to Toshiko (the owner), the sauce has been continuously replenished and maintained since the founder’s grandfather’s era. It’s made by simmering onions, carrots, aromatic vegetables and more, then adding meat drippings (gravy sauce), butter, salt, pepper, tomato puree, and other ingredients to build natural umami and sweetness. The great-grandmother adapted the flavor to match Kurashiki residents’ preference for mild tastes, and it’s maintained consistently every day.
Abundant Secret Demi-Glace Sauce. A Long-Beloved Old Shop in Kurashiki’s Shopping Arcade. – Nikkoku Webtown Information Okayama

The pickles on the counter nicely refresh the palate, which becomes rich from the tonkatsu and demi-sauce.

Final Thoughts

When I first heard about Okayama’s demi-katsu specialty, I thought “Tonkatsu with demi-glace sauce? Really works that well?” But it exceeded expectations.

I can’t speak for other establishments, but Kappa’s demi-sauce is unlike what I’ve encountered elsewhere—exquisitely adjusted to pair perfectly with both katsu and rice. It’s truly exceptional.

Being a popular spot, you may need to time your visit to avoid substantial wait times, but it’s absolutely worth the effort to experience this renowned establishment!

※ Above information is current as of article publication. Please verify with official sources.

Located in the Yakuenbori area, near the bustling Nagarekawa district, Hassho is a well-loved local gem—not just a tourist hotspot, but a place where Hiroshima locals also flock.

I recently visited Mazda Stadium to cheer for the Hiroshima Carp, and before the game, I decided to grab a meal at Hassho.

This okonomiyaki was the best I’ve ever had, not just for its rich flavors but also for its crispy outside and fluffy inside, making it a delight for both taste and texture.

Hassho: A Famous Okonomiyaki Spot Near Hiroshima’s Nagarekawa District

Hassho is about a 10-minute walk from Hiroshima’s Ginzancho Station on the city’s streetcar line.

The exterior has a traditional and rustic charm.
I arrived shortly after they opened at 4:00 PM on a weekday, so there was no line yet.
However, judging by the signs and setup, long queues must be a regular occurrence.

Despite the early hour, the restaurant was nearly full.
A board inside displayed the names of sister restaurants across Japan, including one in Nishijin, Fukuoka, where I live.

Watching Skilled Chefs Prepare Okonomiyaki is a Treat in Itself

When visiting a famous restaurant for the first time, I always go for the classic dish.
Here, that meant Soba Nikutama (Okonomiyaki with Noodles, Pork, and Egg)—but I added extra green onions because I love them.

The head chef or an experienced apprentice would handle the final touches, while younger apprentices worked in the back, steaming the cabbage and preparing the base layers.
(I didn’t watch every step, so this might not be completely accurate.)

The cold water is served in a giant beer mug, which is perfect for Hiroshima’s hot summers.
The okonomiyaki sauce is, of course, Hiroshima’s favorite: Otafuku Sauce.

With the watchful eye of the head chef, apprentices skillfully prepared the okonomiyaki.
Watching their precise techniques is just as enjoyable as eating the dish itself.

A Perfectly Balanced Okonomiyaki: Crispy, Fluffy, and Packed with Flavor

After 20 to 30 minutes, my Soba Nikutama with extra green onions was ready!

The outer crust and pork were crispy and fragrant, while the cabbage and noodles inside were light and fluffy.

Everything—from the noodles and vegetables to the batter itself—was prepared with great care.
Unlike many other okonomiyaki shops, they avoid using dashi (broth) in the batter to ensure it doesn’t clash with the sauce.

Tasting it, I could immediately tell this level of dedication paid off—the flavors were incredible.
I can confidently say that this is the best okonomiyaki I have ever had.

I also noticed a pot of simmering stew kept warm on the teppan.
Next time, I’d love to order a beer and some stew while watching the okonomiyaki being cooked.

Final Thoughts

Since Hassho is a popular spot, expect long lines if you visit during peak hours.
The preparation process also takes time, so it’s best to visit when you can relax and enjoy the experience.

If you’re visiting Hiroshima, this is one place you can’t afford to miss!

Hagi is well known for its pottery and atmospheric castle town with white-walled streets, but right now, it is also gaining attention as the setting for the NHK Taiga drama “Hana Moyu”.

Hagi holds significant historical importance as the birthplace of Yoshida Shoin and his sister Fumi, as well as several prominent figures of the late Edo and early Meiji periods who studied at Shoin’s private academy, “Shokasonjuku”. These include Takasugi Shinsaku, Kido Takayoshi (formerly Katsura Kogoro), and Yamagata Aritomo.

Although I wasn’t particularly well-versed in history, I took this opportunity to capture photos and reflect on the legacy of Shoin Sensei.

Shokasonjuku (Yoshida Shoin’s Private School) & Shoin Shrine

Shoin Shrine, which enshrines Yoshida Shoin, and Shokasonjuku are located within the same grounds.
It takes about 20 minutes on foot from the nearest station, Higashi-Hagi Station, so traveling by car is recommended.

The torii gate at the entrance of Shoin Shrine.
There were many banners promoting the currently airing Taiga drama “Hana Moyu”.

A giant ema (votive tablet) with an amusingly rough yet charming drawing greeted visitors.

The shrine grounds are filled with lush greenery, and several historical buildings, including Shokasonjuku, remain intact.

A stone monument marking the site of Shokasonjuku.

『親思う　こころにまさる　親ごころ
　きょうの音ずれ　何ときくらん』

This is Shoin’s farewell poem, written as he faced execution in Edo, expressing his thoughts for his parents back home.
He passed away at the young age of 30—much younger than I am now…

Did he leave this world with regret, or was he prepared and at peace with his fate?

The restored building of Shokasonjuku.

Many leaders who shaped Japan’s future studied under Shoin here.

This small 3-tatami-mat room was where Shoin spent his house arrest.
It is said that he began giving lectures to his family here, which eventually led to the founding of Shokasonjuku.

Of course, I also paid my respects at Shoin Shrine.
Hopefully, it will make me smarter…!

A fortune slip featuring words of wisdom from Shoin Sensei.

I drew a “Daikichi” (great fortune)!
Thank you—I will continue to strive for excellence.

Meirinkan

Next, I visited “Meirinkan”, one of the three major educational institutions in Japan during the Edo period and also Shoin’s alma mater.

Shoin started working at Meirinkan at the age of 10 and, by 11, was giving lectures on **”Bukyō Zensho”** (a military textbook) before the domain lord, Mōri Takachika. By the age of 19, he became an “independent instructor”—what we would call a professor today.
His brilliance was truly extraordinary.

This building was used as an elementary school until recently.
What a beautifully historic school—how lucky the students were.

A long wooden corridor—filled with a nostalgic and historical charm.

I found a sign reading “Takatoku Shugyosha Hikitsukebasho”, meaning “Training Ground for Disciples from Other Regions.”
This was “Yubikan”, a place where warriors from outside the domain could train.

Inside was a dojo used for training in swordsmanship and spearmanship, as well as a training ground for visiting warriors.
I could almost picture samurai practicing with wooden swords here.

There was also what seemed to be the original “Meirinkan” sign.

Stepping out of Yubikan, I decided to walk around the exterior of Meirinkan.

Unfortunately, entry wasn’t allowed, but I managed to take a peek through an open window.
(This photo was taken by reaching in as far as possible!)

A sign from when it was still an elementary school.

This is “Suiren-ike”, Japan’s oldest swimming training pond, where warriors once practiced **water combat and horseback swimming**.
And just beyond it—what is that grand building?

It turned out to be the current Meirin Elementary School.
What an incredibly impressive building—so envious!

Next door was the “Taiga Drama Museum”, dedicated to “Hana Moyu”, but since I wasn’t particularly interested in the drama, I skipped it.

The “South Gate of Meirinkan”, still standing today.
The sign looked oddly new—perhaps it was replaced recently?

Nearby, I found two stone monuments.
The left one is the “Genbun Monument”, and the right one is the “Shin Monument”, both inscribed with details about the founding of Meirinkan.

A turtle statue supporting the monument—quite an interesting detail.

The buildings of Meirinkan were truly elegant.
This appeared to be the main hall.

After completing a full loop, I must say—it was a pleasant and enlightening stroll.

Enseiji Temple, Kido Takayoshi’s Former Residence, and the Takasugi Shinsaku Statue

Next, I explored the historic castle town of Hagi, visiting locations connected to Yoshida Shoin’s disciples who studied at Shokasonjuku.

Walking through the white-walled streets, I noticed summer oranges growing in various spots—adding to the town’s historical charm.

This is “Enseiji Temple”, where “Takasugi Shinsaku”, a key figure in the anti-Shogunate movement, and “Ito Hirobumi”, Japan’s first Prime Minister, studied as children.
There’s a ¥200 entrance fee—unexpectedly pricey.

A “Tengu mask” that Takasugi Shinsaku was reportedly shown multiple times as a child during bravery tests.
This would definitely make kids cry…

A “sacred horse statue”, said to be a favorite plaything of young Takasugi Shinsaku and Ito Hirobumi.

Then, completely out of nowhere, I stumbled upon a “Choshu Five monument” written entirely in hiragana.
Who decided to build this here?

Shaking off my confusion, I continued strolling through the town.
I even spotted someone dressed in “historical attire walking a dog”—perhaps a local guide?

The houses in the area were impressive, featuring traditional “grand gates”.
I imagine there are strict zoning laws preventing modern buildings or apartments from being constructed here.

This is the “former residence of Kido Takayoshi” (formerly Katsura Kogoro).
Traditional Japanese houses always evoke a nostalgic feeling.

Unfortunately, I “ran out of time” before I could visit “Takasugi Shinsaku’s former residence”, so instead, I settled for two statues of him.

He looks incredibly dignified!

Kikuya Residence

Lastly, though not directly related to Shoin, I visited the “Kikuya Residence”, which once belonged to a wealthy merchant family serving the domain.
This building is about “400 years old”, making it one of the “oldest existing merchant houses” in Japan. It is also designated as an “Important Cultural Property of Japan”.

It is a “classic Japanese-style residence”, but…

The “size of the house and the number of displayed artifacts” are overwhelming.
As expected from a wealthy merchant family!

This appears to be an “old-fashioned cash register”.

A “telephone room”—I wonder from what era this is?

A “clock brought back from America” (or maybe it was a gift?).
It is still working today.

This must have been the “kitchen area”.

The most captivating part of the Kikuya Residence was “this beautiful courtyard”.
I could spend hours here, just sitting on the veranda and gazing at the trees…
It truly embodies the “essence of a Japanese garden”.

Even the “view of the garden from behind the shoji (sliding paper doors)” was stunning.

Every “spring and autumn”, during the “Golden Week holidays and fall foliage season”, a “special opening” of the usually restricted “inner garden” is held.
I wish I could have seen it!
Next time, I’ll visit in “autumn”.

“Special Opening of the Inner Garden” (Spring)
April 29 (Wed, Holiday) – May 6 (Wed, Holiday)
May 9 (Sat) – May 17 (Sun) Open Garden

Hagi City Tourism Association ‘Burari Hagi Aruki’

Closing Thoughts

As I mentioned at the beginning, I was initially quite unfamiliar with “Yoshida Shoin”, but after visiting various places in Hagi, I couldn’t help but feel a deep appreciation for his impact on Japan’s history.
“The Japan we know today exists thanks to Shoin Sensei… Thank you…!”

Hagi offers more than just historical sites related to Shoin—it is a town rich in culture, pottery, seafood, and hot springs.
I highly recommend visiting if you have the chance.