While there are many shops called Kanazawa curry such as Champion Curry (nicknamed Chan-Kare), Indian Curry, and Gold Curry, one of the shops said to be the originator is Turban Curry.

Since the main shop is located in an easily accessible place in Kanazawa city, I went there right after arriving at the station.

The rich roux with depth and sweetness has an addictive taste. So this is the deliciousness of Kanazawa curry…!

Access and Transportation to Turban Curry

Turban Curry’s main shop (Katamachi branch) is located in the Korinbo district of Kanazawa City. It’s close to tourist spots like the 21st Century Museum and Kenrokuen Garden, in a very accessible location.

It takes about 30 minutes to walk from Kanazawa Station, so it’s best to go by bus or taxi.

If you’re planning to stay overnight for Kanazawa sightseeing, I recommend getting accommodation around the Korinbo area, as it makes it easy to visit tourist spots like the 21st Century Museum, Kenrokuen Garden, samurai residences, and Kanazawa Castle ruins.

Original Kanazawa Curry “Turban Curry”

On this kind of street with lots of greenery while being in the city,

There was Turban Curry. A quite small, cozy shop.

Inside there are only counter seats and small table seats. Though it was a weekday and well past lunchtime, customers kept coming in continuously.

Established in 1971 (Showa 46), it has quite a long history. Since I was hungry, I ordered the L-set (medium), which is the recommended BEST 1.

Here’s Turban Curry’s menu. Small is 500 yen, medium is 550 yen, large is 700 yen, extra large is 850 yen. However, these are 2015 prices, and as of 2022 they appear to be small: 500 yen, medium: 600 yen, large: 700 yen, extra large: 800 yen. Medium has increased but extra large decreased. Quite unusual.

Three female staff members who look like they make delicious curry are efficiently preparing curry and toppings.

Rich Roux with Melted Vegetable Sweetness, Exquisite

The L-set arrived!! Kanazawa curry is characterized by dark roux on a metal plate, served with cabbage.

Rich, deep roux with melted umami and sweetness from vegetables and meat. Freshly fried tonkatsu with hamburger and sausage.

This is really delicious!

Honestly, Go Go Curry in Tokyo and Fukuoka didn’t really click with me, but this Turban Curry firmly grabbed my stomach. (By the way, Go Go Curry’s founder apparently worked part-time at this Turban Curry for a few months before opening independently. Perhaps because they expanded their chain mainly in Tokyo rather than local Kanazawa, there seem to be mixed opinions among Kanazawa citizens)

The spork (spoon-fork hybrid) since school lunch days – a great invention that lets you eat both toppings and curry with just this one utensil.

It was delicious!

Final Thoughts

While Fukuoka also has many delicious curry shops including Asian countries’ styles, home-style, European-style, etc., this is a different type of flavor. I want one in my neighborhood…

When you come to Kanazawa, please definitely visit. They apparently have branches in Nagano and Kyoto too!

立山黒部アルペンルート公式サイト

富山と長野を結ぶ標高3,000m級の北アルプスを貫く世界有数の雲上山岳観光ルート。立山黒部アルペンルートは様々な乗り物を乗り継ぎながら、気軽に大自然が生み出す絶景を楽しめます。

www.alpen-route.com

Transferring between trains, cable cars, trolley buses, and ropeway cars while enjoying the vast natural beauty of the Northern Alps. Walking across the famous Kurobe Dam. The changing seasonal landscape is another highlight.

I previously traveled this Alpine Route round-trip, so here’s my report. (I visited in early October 2015)

The spectacular views from mountain peaks, mountains tinged in red and yellow—it was full of wonderful scenery!

Starting from Tateyama Station, the Toyama-Side Entry Point, via Dentetsu Toyama Station Near Toyama Station

The starting point is Dentetsu Toyama Station, located right next to Toyama Station.

This is the terminal station of the Toyama Chiho Railway line, serving as the Toyama-side entry point to the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route at Tateyama, and also providing access to Unazuki Onsen, where you can ride the Kurobe Gorge Railway trolley train.

Two retro electric trains were parked at the small platform.

Boarding this train, I headed straight to Tateyama Station. The journey from Toyama Station takes about 1 hour.

Arrived at Tateyama Station! Hikers and mountain climbers streamed off the train.

There are also many international tourists, and the station stairs already display signage in Japanese, English, Korean, simplified and traditional Chinese, and even Thai.

Despite being a weekday, Tateyama Station was crowded with visitors. Surrounded by trees tinged yellow, the scenery was already impressive at this point.

Ascending via Cable Car and Bus from Tateyama Station

At the ticket office, I purchased a round-trip ticket to the final destination, Ogizawa (¥13,360).
Though called a “round-trip,” it’s not simply going and returning—it’s a long journey transferring between cable cars, buses, trolley buses, and ropeway cars.

Got the ticket! “TATEYAMA EKI”

Starting here! I was dressed light in just a hoodie, but others appeared quite serious about mountain climbing.

Checking the signage… wait, 3°C? That cold…? Though I wasn’t planning to climb, maybe I should have dressed warmer.

While pondering this, the first cable car arrived. I boarded immediately.

The vehicle itself is angled along the slope, so the seating is characteristically tiered like stairs.

The cable car, carrying many passengers, powerfully climbs a slope that would be impossible to walk up.

In less than 10 minutes, we arrived at Bijodaira. At 475m elevation for Tateyama Station versus 977m for Bijodaira, the cable car had ascended about 500m.

The station had a fairly large souvenir shop and was quite lively.

Next, I boarded a high-speed bus heading to Murodo via Midagahara.

Along the route, there are scenic viewpoints, walking trails, hotels, and various bus stops. The 23km, approximately 50-minute journey is quite long.

Before that, I took a moment to observe the Bijosugis (beautiful cedar trees) standing beside Bijodaira Station. These are truly magnificent trees!

“Beautiful cedar of the sacred mountain, if you have a heart, did you hear my secret prayer?” Chanting this poem three times is said to grant love to anyone, regardless of gender.
Three times? The legend creator could have lowered the bar a bit.

Next, boarding the bus. Before and after this section feature cable cars or trolley buses with their own special characteristics, but this appears to be an ordinary tour bus.

One highlight along the route is Takimidai (waterfall viewing platform), where a distant waterfall is visible. I didn’t capture it well, so please see it in person!

Midagahara, which has a hotel and serves as the entrance to a walking trail, was passed through quickly due to time constraints.

As the bus climbs from 977m at Bijodaira to 2,450m at Murodo, spectacular views of the Northern Alps mountains appear through the windows. My excitement grew!

Arrived at Murodo! Most mountaineers’ destination is here, where the climbing trail begins.

Murodo’s High Elevation Brings Cold, But Exceptional Views! From Daikaenbou to Kurobe Daira

Stepping outside the station revealed this view! The steep face of Tateyama.
But the high elevation means it’s quite cold. Even in early October, temperatures can be in the single digits, so proper winter clothing is necessary.

Many hikers headed toward the steep mountain.

Accidents occur relatively frequently here, and an incident map was posted.
When mountaineering, ensure equipment and physical condition are optimal, and don’t forget to check the weather forecast.

From here, I took a trolley bus to Daikaenbou. Interestingly, there’s another famous viewpoint with the same name in Aso, Kumamoto.
(I recalled when my navigation system suddenly aimed for Toyama when I was trying to reach Aso’s Daikaenbou.)

This trolley bus is unique in Japan—it’s the only place where this vehicle operates. Like trains, it draws power from overhead wires. The sensation is oddly between a train and a bus. Of course, it can only travel on designated routes.

The Daikaenbou stop is relatively small. However, souvenir shops operate normally.

Stepping outside during the brief transfer time revealed this view! Living up to the name “Daikaenbou,” the vista was magnificent.
Though the sun angle was less than ideal at that time, I could see the majestic natural beauty of the Northern Alps.

With limited time, I skipped detailed sightseeing and headed to the ropeway station.

Gazing at autumn foliage-colored mountains far below, we proceed onward. At this evening hour, everything was in shadow. Yet still beautiful.

Arrived at Kurobe Daira. With closing time near, fewer people were around.

Even on Clear Days, Evening Lighting at Kurobe Daira-Kurobe Lake Isn’t Ideal. Morning Visits Recommended

Outside the station, reddened trees and mountains were visible, but the sun angle made them appear suboptimal. This too would be saved for tomorrow.

From here, a cable car descends toward Kurobe Lake.

Kurobe Lake Station is one of the Alpine Route’s premier tourist attractions—you can actually walk across the famous Kurobe Dam.

Passing through a stone tunnel…

There it is—Kurobe Dam!

…But again, poor lighting!

The next day I returned and saw a beautifully lit Kurobe Dam.

With the final connection to Nagano Prefecture’s Ogizawa Station approaching, I hurried through the dam and back to the station.

Kurobe Dam was the filming location for actor Yujiro Ishihara’s movies and programs like Project X. This crucial facility, built through arduous and dangerous construction efforts, supported Japan during the high-growth economic period.

Overnight Stay at Omachi Onsen Area on the Nagano Side

From Kurobe Dam to Ogizawa Station, I took a trolley bus again, crossing the prefectural border between Toyama and Nagano.

From Ogizawa Station, buses transport passengers down to the town below. I had accommodation in nearby Omachi Onsen, so I headed there.

Despite being called an onsen resort, it was quite small and quiet. I walked to the accommodation.

I stayed at the highly-rated Hotel Yume no Yu.

I was momentarily surprised seeing “Hakata” on the reservation, thinking I was booked under my hometown name!

Though I booked an economical plan, I enjoyed delicious meals including sukiyaki and hot springs. After quite a bit of walking, I slept soundly.

Returning to Kurobe Lake – Morning Sunshine Reveals Panoramic Alpine Treasures

The next day, I took a bus again from Omachi Onsen to Ogizawa Station, then a trolley bus to Kurobe Dam.

On a sunny morning, Kurobe Dam was nothing short of spectacular. If you’re planning to visit, pay attention not just to the weather, but also to the time of day.

Retracing yesterday’s route in reverse, I next headed to Kurobe Daira. The weather was excellent, and I could take in an unobstructed view of the connected Northern Alps peaks. Absolutely gorgeous!

Early October, with foliage just beginning, offers a beautiful gradient of red, yellow, and green.

Earlier in the season, everything would be lush green; later, the reds and yellows would be more vivid. It’s a place worth visiting multiple times.

Kurobe Daira sits at 1,828m elevation. The highest peak in Kyushu (excluding islands) is Kujusan in Oita at 1,791m—so this location alone is higher! Truly worthy of the Japanese Alps designation.
The signage read “Take only photographs, leave only footprints,” so I strolled around and captured photos accordingly.

Another charm of Kurobe Daira is viewing the passing ropeway from below.

Boarding the ropeway while gazing at autumn mountains, I headed to Daikaenbou.

At an even higher elevation of 2,316m, the terrace views here were similarly exceptional.

The green visible below is Kurobe Lake. It’s hard to believe this massive lake is man-made.
Steep mountains surround it on all sides.

I hadn’t noticed the day before, but there were also photos of the famous “Snow Valley Walk,” visible April through June. This unique experience of walking alongside towering walls of snow is something I’d like to experience someday.

At Murodo, like the previous day, I peeked at the mountain climbing route entrance, but dense fog obscured everything. Mountain weather changes rapidly.

Taking the opportunity, I also visited Midagahara along the route.

Walking the nature trail alongside well-equipped mountaineers.

The trail appeared to extend quite far inland, so considering my light equipment and time constraints, I turned back early.

Heading back to Bijodaira.

Finally, via cable car back to Tateyama Station. What a fantastic experience!

Final Thoughts

Majestic nature, humanity’s engineering marvel in the form of a massive dam and artificial lake, enjoyable variety of transportation modes—it was a journey that never grew dull.

Among Japan’s tourist attractions, I believe this is truly one worth visiting. Pick a nice weather day and definitely make the trip!

立山黒部アルペンルート公式サイト

富山と長野を結ぶ標高3,000m級の北アルプスを貫く世界有数の雲上山岳観光ルート。立山黒部アルペンルートは様々な乗り物を乗り継ぎながら、気軽に大自然が生み出す絶景を楽しめます。

www.alpen-route.com

The pass even covers lines up to the Hokuriku area, so we decided—let’s go eat crab in Fukui!

After researching the itinerary, we chose a place called “Raden,” right in front of Fukui Station.

And what we ordered wasn’t the famous Echizen Crab… but rather a Seiko Crab Bowl Set, overflowing with female snow crab.

It was an absolutely delicious meal, packed with crab, and surprisingly affordable (at least compared to Echizen Crab)!

What is Seiko Crab?

While Echizen Crab refers to male snow crabs, Seiko Crab is the term for female snow crabs.

In other areas, they’re sometimes called Sekogani or Kobako Crab.

An Echizen Crab typically costs about 15,000 to 20,000 yen per crab, whereas Seiko Crab is about a third of the size, costing roughly 2,000 to 4,000 yen—making it much more budget-friendly.

↓ In the photo below, the crab on the bottom is likely Echizen, while the one on top is the female Seiko Crab.

今日はがちな越前ガニいただいたのでありがたくいただきます。むちゃおいしそう！この雌もでかいけど雄がハンパない。今日は雄のみいただきます。 pic.twitter.com/7jAVzOJ7Wr

— たっくん＠天然さんかも？ (@Takutora) December 12, 2021

What makes Seiko Crab special is its rich eggs—called uchiko (immature eggs) and sotoko (fully matured eggs about to be laid)—which give it a wonderfully dense flavor and texture that locals in Fukui absolutely love.

But since Seiko Crab season is limited for conservation reasons—from November 6 to the end of December—it’s even harder to come by than Echizen Crab.

(Source:
・Price & taste differences between male and female Echizen Crab | *link broken*
・Seiko Crab | Echizen Kani Narumae)

Our trip happened to line up perfectly with this short Seiko Crab season… so naturally, we had to try it!

Arriving in Fukui — just a one-minute walk to Raden

We took the shinkansen from Hakata to Shin-Osaka with the unlimited pass, then transferred to the limited express Thunderbird to reach Fukui Station.

If you’re at Fukui Station, of course you have to take a picture with the dinosaur statues.
I wanted to visit the Dinosaur Museum and more if we’d had time… next time for sure!

From the west exit with the dinosaurs, it’s just a one-minute walk to the left—Raden is right there.

The seasonal Seiko Crab Bowl Set is 4,800 yen. It’s not exactly cheap—but compared to Echizen Crab, it’s a steal. Reservations required.
(Photo taken November 29, 2021)

We were seated at a counter lined with elegant ceramic ware. There are tables in the back too.

Seiko Crab meat, rich roe, and miso overflowing in this bowl set

Here it is—the Seiko Crab Bowl Set! Those two crab shells piled on top make quite an impact.

It’s absolutely loaded with chunks of Seiko Crab meat, shredded meat, plus the uchiko and sotoko roe on top of rice. What a sight.

We stacked up the shells from two people—four crabs in total. It felt like they were all watching us!

The crab meat is sweet and full of classic crab flavor—so good.
The uchiko mixed with crab miso is intensely savory and is truly the highlight of eating Seiko Crab.

The sotoko gives a fun popping texture. Try dipping it in crab vinegar or eating it together with the meat and uchiko.

The staff suggested pouring the crab vinegar over it, but personally I preferred dipping each bite into the vinegar myself.

If you pour it over everything, the vinegar flavor can get pretty strong (still delicious though). Eating the different parts on their own really lets you savor the pure crab taste.

It’s fun to switch back and forth—sometimes with vinegar, sometimes without.

The rice portion isn’t that big, so it was gone in no time.
I found myself leaving little bits of each part to prolong the farewell.

It was truly delicious. Seiko Crab is the best.

One last note

I’m sure there are many other great crab restaurants in Fukui City and throughout Fukui Prefecture, but if you’re looking for something near Fukui Station, Raden is absolutely the best choice.

Echizen Crab season runs from November 8 to the end of March, while Seiko Crab is only from November 8 to the end of December (it may vary, so check with the restaurant).
If your timing lines up, definitely give it a try!

Although it’s a bit of a distance from Fukui Station, Tojinbo is located on the outskirts of Sakai City in Fukui.

While most people travel there by car, I decided to take the train and bus instead.

Since I couldn’t find any website clearly explaining how to get to Tojinbo from Fukui Station, I’d like to share the route for future travelers. Of course, I also took plenty of photos!

Although Tojinbo has a reputation as a “suicide spot,” I found it to be a bustling and scenic destination filled with tourists. The gloomy image was quickly dispelled!

Taking the Train and Bus from Fukui Station to Tojinbo

From Fukui Station, take the Echizen Railway to Mikuni Station. Since it’s nearly the entire line, the ride takes about 50 minutes.

You could get off at the final stop, Mikuni Port Station, but be aware that there’s no taxi service and little else around. Mikuni Station, however, has a bus stop, some shops, and taxis available.

Here’s the bus schedule outside Mikuni Station. Take the No. 84 bus bound for Tojinbo.

Buses come about once an hour, so it’s a good idea to check the schedule in advance. (→ Keifuku Bus Route Info)

Here comes the bus to Tojinbo!

Other than myself, there was only one couple on the bus—likely tourists as well.

It seems that most visitors come by car or tour bus.

After getting off at the bus stop, walk down a pathway resembling a shrine approach to reach Tojinbo.

Along the way, you’ll find restaurants and souvenir shops—definitely the vibe of a tourist destination. As expected, seafood dominates the food options.

There was even this eye-catching shop. But what’s up with the phone number “Hi! Troubled”? Maybe something like “No Worries” would make more sense…

Here’s what it looks like on the map. Even if they warn against snacking while walking, it’s hard to resist.

Soon the view opens up—and you’ve arrived at your destination!

This is Tojinbo…!

This is where it’s located on the map.

A Stunning View of the Sea of Japan and Steep Cliffs

There were sightseeing boat hawkers, many elderly tourists, and a lively atmosphere—completely different from the somber image I had before arriving. It was just a normal tourist spot!

That said, it’s true that several people take their lives here every year, and there are signs for suicide prevention. Visiting at night might be genuinely scary…

Before you is the Sea of Japan, and across the water is Oshima Island with its iconic bridge—a breathtaking view.

Tojinbo is famous for its sheer cliffs.

These cliffs are made up of columnar joints of andesite rock—a geological formation that’s rare even on a global scale. They’re designated a Natural Monument of Japan.

Sightseeing boats depart from the cove-like areas carved into the cliffs.

If you want to experience being surrounded by cliffs on three sides, the boat ride is a must. I didn’t have time this visit, but I’d love to ride next time.

As expected of a popular filming location, even during my visit, a crew was filming something.

Guards were stationed to keep people out of the shot, so I couldn’t get close.

Maybe they were shooting a scene where a detective corners the suspect. Why does the suspect always flee to a dead-end cliff anyway?

Tojinbo Retro Collection

As a bonus, here’s a collection of retro finds spotted on the way back from Tojinbo.

Check out the delightfully retro “Tojinbo Tower.”

I missed the return bus, and there were no taxis in sight despite being a tourist area, so I had to walk 40 minutes to Mikuni Port Station.

Along the way, I saw something in a parking lot that really shouldn’t still be there…

The entrance looked ancient—definitely a relic from the Showa era.

This one’s tagline reads “Endless Sky and Sea,” followed by a random “I’m Tojinbo.” And the other guy? A friend?

After walking endlessly down roads with no sidewalks, I finally reached Mikuni Port Station. It was a long trek…

Since you’ll be walking along narrow roadside shoulders with no sidewalks, I don’t recommend walking. (Though I doubt many would try.) Either wait for the bus or find a way to call a taxi.

In the end, Tojinbo is definitely a place best reached by car.

Visit Tojinbo — One of Japan’s Most Breathtaking Scenic Spots

If you want to see stunning ocean cliffs and experience a touch of Japan’s Showa-era nostalgia, Tojinbo is absolutely worth a visit!

This scenic route stretches from Tateyama in Toyama Prefecture to Kurobe (technically ending at Ogizawa in Nagano Prefecture) and involves transfers between trolley buses, cable cars, and ropeways, offering stunning mountain views along the way. You can also traverse it in the opposite direction, from Nagano to Toyama.

The highlight of the Alpine Route is undoubtedly the Kurobe Dam.

Built in 1963, over 50 years ago, this is Japan’s largest dam. Its construction was a monumental feat, marked by a difficult process that claimed 171 lives and was later featured on the documentary series *Project X*.

I visited in early October when the autumn foliage was just beginning. The combination of blue skies, colorful leaves, the emerald-green Kurobe Lake, and the dramatic water discharge from the dam—complete with a rainbow—made for an unforgettable view.

Kurobe Dam, Located Near Nagano on the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route

Before heading out, I didn’t know much about the route, so I did some homework using the following website:

立山黒部アルペンルート公式サイト

The fare table at Tateyama Station provided helpful guidance. My route involved staying at Omachi Onsen in Nagano after reaching Ogizawa Station and returning the next day, so I purchased a round-trip ticket to Ogizawa for ¥13,360. Quite pricey!(as of 2015)

The journey to Kurobe Dam required multiple transfers—cable car, highland bus, trolley bus, ropeway, cable car again, and another trolley bus—taking about three hours. By the time I arrived, it was already 5 PM, close to the last bus departure to Ogizawa. The water discharge had also stopped for the day.

Even so, I was awestruck by the sheer scale of the dam. However, this was just a preview, and I looked forward to exploring more the next day.

The next morning, I took a route bus from Omachi Onsen to Ogizawa Station, a one-way fare of ¥1,010(as of 2015).

Ogizawa Station, situated at an altitude of 1,433 meters, offered beautiful views even at this starting point.

With my round-trip ticket already purchased, I was all set to head to Kurobe Dam without the need to buy additional tickets.

The Kansai Electric Power trolley bus took me through a tunnel to Kurobe Dam Station in just 16 minutes. The morning crowd was significant, even on a weekday.

And finally, I arrived at Kurobe Dam Station.

The Observation Deck for a Panoramic View of Kurobe Dam

Upon arriving, a staircase leading to the dam’s observation deck immediately caught my eye. It’s said to have 220 steps. Let’s go!

Most visitors were older, likely in their 50s or beyond, but they climbed the long stairs with remarkable vigor.

As I ascended, the view opened up, revealing breathtaking scenery all around.

And, of course, Kurobe Dam. From late June to October 15, the dam releases water as part of its sightseeing discharge. The sheer volume of water is awe-inspiring.

To think this was constructed over 50 years ago is astonishing.

As the altitude increases, the colors of the surrounding mountains deepen, showcasing the beauty of autumn around Kurobe Dam.

A stunning rainbow even appeared, adding to the already perfect scenery. What more could you ask for?

The vibrant green of Kurobe Lake stands out beautifully. It’s incredible to think that this enormous body of water is entirely man-made.

Experience the Power of the Dam Up Close at the New Observation Plaza

Descending from the main observation deck, there’s another plaza offering a different perspective on the surroundings.

The plaza includes a free indoor rest area where visitors can enjoy the scenery in comfort.

As you descend the stairs, the angle of the view gradually shifts, offering fresh perspectives of the dam, the surrounding mountains, and the lake.

The lower you go, the more you can appreciate the dam’s sheer scale and engineering marvel.

At the new observation plaza, you can get much closer to the dam itself. While the higher observation deck offers a better balance of scenery, the sheer force of the water discharge is best appreciated up close.

The water bursts out with tremendous energy.

The view of the surrounding mountains from below is equally captivating.

There’s also an exhibit showcasing the history and achievements of the workers who built Kurobe Dam.

Walking from Kurobe Dam Station to Kurobe Lake Station

After taking in the views, I began the 15-minute walk from Kurobe Dam Station to Kurobe Lake Station, taking my time to enjoy the scenery.

Starting from the rest house near Kurobe Dam Station, where you can shop for souvenirs or grab a meal.

There’s even a unique local soda named *Hasaider*, inspired by the fractured zone that caused water to gush out during the dam’s construction, making it one of the project’s major challenges.

And let’s not forget the local mascot, *Kuronyon*!

Be sure to pay your respects at the memorial for the workers who lost their lives during construction.

There’s even a spot where you can take commemorative photos.

The path along the top of the dam provides a leisurely walk with beautiful views on both sides.

Midway, I stopped at the center of the dam to look down…

And got an exhilarating view of the powerful water discharge from above.

Conclusion

The Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route and Kurobe Dam offer breathtaking scenery that changes with the seasons.

If you ever have the chance to travel to the Hokuriku region, this is a destination you absolutely must visit. The views will leave you speechless!

As I searched for must-visit spots in each prefecture, I stumbled upon a place called Ainokura Gassho-Zukuri Village.

It turns out this village is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as “The Gassho-Zukuri Villages of Shirakawa-go and Gokayama.”

I already knew about Shirakawa-go, as it’s quite famous, but I had no idea there were other Gassho-Zukuri villages. And what’s more, you can not only visit but also stay overnight! I had to go!

The village is also popular among international tourists, making it tough to secure reservations. However, I managed to adjust my schedule and successfully booked a stay in a Gassho-Zukuri house.

I’ll share a detailed report with plenty of photos!

Heading to Ainokura Gassho-Zukuri Village by Bus

Compared to Shirakawa-go, which is highly developed for tourism and has good transportation access, Ainokura Gassho-Zukuri Village is much harder to reach.

You can only get there by car or by using the “World Heritage Bus,” which runs about once an hour.

In my case, I took the Kitokito Liner from Nagoya to Gokayama Gassho-no-Sato and then transferred to the World Heritage Bus to reach Ainokura.

Here is the World Heritage Bus. There were both sightseeing-style buses and buses that looked more like regular public transit.

On the way, I made a one-hour stop at the “Takanashi” bus stop. It had a quaint vibe reminiscent of something from “GeGeGe no Kitaro.”

Nearby, there are inns, souvenir shops, restaurants, hot spring facilities, and the designated historic Murakami House.

Afterward, I boarded the bus again and got off at the “Ainokura Entrance” stop.

From here, it’s a 5-minute walk to Ainokura Gassho-Zukuri Village. Just follow the signs.

To be honest, the “5 minutes” felt like a bit of an understatement. It’s a surprisingly long walk, but I pressed on.

I made it! The peaceful atmosphere is calming, yet I couldn’t help but feel excited.

For reference, here’s the location:

Strolling Through Ainokura Gassho-Zukuri Village: A Glimpse of Edo-Era Japan

Even the small teahouses here are built in the Gassho-Zukuri style.

The public restroom is embedded in a stone wall for some reason.

Next, I noticed a sign indicating a “panoramic photo spot.” I decided to check it out.

After climbing a small mountain path for about 5 minutes, I reached the spot.

Here it is! Though honestly, it wasn’t as clear of a view as I expected.

However, zooming in gave a good perspective of the Gassho-Zukuri houses nestled among the mountains.

After descending, I decided to take a walk through the village itself. Keep in mind that people still live here, so it’s important to be respectful and considerate while exploring.

Though I’m not from a rural area myself, there’s something nostalgic about this place—a sense of longing and familiarity.

Here’s a close-up of the thatched roof. I couldn’t help but wonder: doesn’t water seep through this material?

The contrast between these Edo- or Meiji-era homes and the modern cars parked in front of them is quite striking.

Before sunset, several large buses brought tourists to the village, so it was reasonably lively. However, after they left, only the residents and overnight guests remained.

Here’s a cozy-looking teahouse.

Some structures seemed to consist only of a roof. Perhaps they’re used as storage?

There was even a small shrine called Jinushi Shrine, where I stopped to offer a prayer.

Unique Experience: Gather Around an Irori Hearth in a Gassho-Zukuri House

The accommodation I stayed at was called “Goyomon.”

民宿五ヨ門（ごよもん）【公式サイト】｜ 五箇山 相倉合掌造り集落

I never imagined I’d get the chance to stay in a Gassho-Zukuri house. I was thrilled.

Let’s go inside!

Once inside, I was greeted by the friendly innkeeper, who showed me to my room. That evening, the total number of guests was eight—myself and a group of seven others. The group stayed in a tatami room, while I was assigned a wooden floor room. The remnants of the irori hearth gave the room a nostalgic charm.

After dropping off my luggage, I was guided to the irori room. The atmosphere was wonderfully warm and cozy.

The innkeeper served me tea and traditional sweets.

Meanwhile, an irori hearth fire was slowly cooking what I guessed would be our dinner: river fish skewers.

The tatami room for the group was also warm and inviting.

Inside the house, there were various items that hinted at its historical significance.

At first, I wondered if the bath might be an old-fashioned Goemon-style one. But to my surprise, it was a modern, beautifully maintained bathroom!

Traditional Dinner Around the Hearth: A Feast and Cultural Exchange

After bathing, it was time for dinner. All the guests gathered around the irori hearth for the meal.

The group of seven consisted of a Japanese family of four hosting an Australian family of three. I couldn’t help but think how fascinating this experience must have been for the Australians, as even for Japanese people, this kind of setting is quite rare.

During the meal, the innkeeper demonstrated the traditional Gokayama folk song, “Kokiriko-bushi.” She showed us how to play the “sasara,” a bamboo percussion instrument, by snapping the wrist. It looked easy but was surprisingly tricky!

Here’s a video for those unfamiliar with the Kokiriko-bushi.

Even the children had a go at playing the sasara.

By the end, the Australian family’s daughter had mastered it impressively. It was a beautiful moment of cultural exchange.

After dinner, I took a quiet stroll through the village. The only sounds were running water and chirping insects.

It was incredibly peaceful.

At one point, I saw someone performing the Kokiriko dance next to a fire hose station. While it’s great to celebrate traditions, perhaps consider the appropriate setting!

Morning in Ainokura: A Beautiful Sunrise Over the Village

The next morning, breakfast was as delicious and varied as dinner had been. The rice, in particular, was outstanding.

Since the group’s breakfast schedule was different from mine, I ate alone. While I’m used to solo travel, dining alone in this setting felt a bit lonely.

After breakfast, I took another walk. The Gassho-Zukuri houses bathed in the morning sunlight were breathtaking.

Behind the inn, I saw a house undergoing a roof renovation.

This particular house caught my attention—it had a certain charm, with sunlight streaming through the trees.

At this early hour, before the tourists arrived, the village was almost entirely empty.

I decided to revisit the panoramic photo spot I’d climbed to the previous day.

I took a closer look at the roofs this time. I wondered about those window-like openings—what purpose do they serve?

On the other side of the roof, there seemed to be similar openings.

On my way back from the walk, I noticed a surveillance camera. Of course, it was a product of a globally renowned Japanese brand—probably.

After paying my accommodation fee (a little over 9,000 yen, including beer), it was time to leave Ainokura Gassho-Zukuri Village. The serene and tranquil atmosphere of this place was truly cleansing for the soul.

By the time I left, just before 10 a.m., buses carrying tourists were starting to arrive. However, compared to Shirakawa-go, Ainokura still retains a quiet and peaceful charm.

I’ll be back someday. Thank you, Ainokura.

Ainokura Gassho-Zukuri Village: A World Heritage Site Worth Staying At

I imagine the village must look completely different in the snowy season, and I’d love to return to see it then.

Ainokura offers a unique and unforgettable experience, unlike anything else. I highly recommend visiting at least once in your lifetime.

I had heard that it was a gourmet city with plenty of delicious food, so I did a bit of research and found a restaurant called “Itaru.”

Since Itaru is a popular restaurant often featured on TV and major online news sites, I was worried about getting in. Fortunately, since I was dining solo, I managed to get a seat without a reservation.

I was a bit concerned that the food and service might feel impersonal, as can sometimes happen at tourist-focused places, but everything—from the food to the service—was excellent. In fact, it exceeded my expectations. Highly recommended!

Itaru: A Restaurant Where You Can Fully Enjoy Kanazawa’s Seafood

The main branch of “Itaru” is located in a quiet area near Kanazawa City Hall, with a few other restaurants nearby. It’s also close to Kenrokuen Garden, Kanazawa Castle, and the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art.

There’s also a Korinbo branch about a five-minute walk from the main store.

• Itaru Official Website: Itaru – Sake and Heartfelt Cuisine

The restaurant exterior has a nice traditional feel, with a sign that says “Sake and Heartfelt Cuisine.” Let’s go in.

The interior has a retro vibe, with both counter and table seating.

This photo was taken as I was about to leave, but when I arrived around 8:30 PM, the counter was packed. Since I was alone, I was lucky enough to find a seat. Lucky me.

The menu prices are listed in units of 100 yen, which is rare to see (except for the course menus).

One of their specialties, the “Japan Sea Sashimi Platter,” can be ordered in a single-serving size, so I went with that!

You can also order from the chalkboard menu, which offers the latest seasonal selections. Checking this first might be a good way to taste the freshest catches.

The appetizer, whelk, served alongside Ishikawa’s local sake, “Ikezuki.” Cheers!

Great Fish and Sake—A Perfect Combo. When in Kanazawa, You Have to Try Nodoguro!

The one-person sashimi platter has arrived! It’s great to find a restaurant willing to accommodate single servings like this.

From left to right: thread-sail filefish, sweet shrimp, young yellowtail, swordfish, and fresh octopus. Each one is plump, fresh, and perfect in flavor and texture. As someone from Kyushu, where seafood is also excellent, I was thrilled to try these different varieties.

The filefish liver, especially when eaten with the sashimi, is a seasonal delight. It’s so good!

The chefs prepare dishes right in front of you. They’re friendly and occasionally chat, as long as it doesn’t interfere with their work. They even attempt to communicate with international guests in basic English. I could sense the owner’s care for guests, as he calmly and respectfully guided his staff when necessary.

For sake lovers, the Hokuriku Three-Flavor Sake Set!

The appetizers are squid in ink sauce, crab miso, and preserved firefly squid, paired with sake from Tengu-mai (Ishikawa), Chikuha (Ishikawa), and Sansyouraku (Toyama).

If there’s one dish you should try in Kanazawa, it’s the nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch)! I didn’t expect one of this size.

The umami-packed grilled fish is unlike anything I’ve ever tasted. Just delicious.

Perfect from Traditional Dishes to Finishing Touches. Highly Recommended.

Another local Kanazawa dish, Kamo no Jibuni (duck stew). The soy sauce-based broth and tender duck flavor are exquisite.

Ending the meal with a unique dish called “Nyan-ko Meshi.” I asked about it, thinking it might be a playful rice dish, and was told it’s their specialty—a bowl of rice topped with fish and covered with hot miso broth. How could I not try this?

So tasty and warming! While a classic rice porridge is nice, Itaru offers this creative finishing dish, and they leave nothing to chance. Fantastic.

Final Thoughts

I ended up spending around 7,600 yen, though it seems that a group of three or four could comfortably eat and drink for around 5,000–6,000 yen per person.
※As of 2015

For the quality of food and ambiance, it’s worth every yen. Despite its popularity, Itaru is free from any pretentiousness.

If you’re looking for great food in Kanazawa, this place is a

solid choice! If you want to be sure to get in, I highly recommend making a reservation.