While that’s true in some areas, you can find cheap and delicious restaurants in Tokyo if you look. Otako Honten, which I’m introducing today, is one of them.

Otako Honten is a long-established oden restaurant founded in 1923 (Taisho 12). Along with the oden this shop serves, another specialty is toumeshi.

It’s rice topped with a big piece of broth-soaked tofu – in a sense that’s all it is, but it’s indescribably and gently delicious. Moreover, at a location near stations in central Tokyo, it costs just 670 yen and is served super fast. There’s no doubt it’s a strong ally for busy office workers in the area.

I highly recommend this restaurant for lunch to those using Tokyo Station or Nihonbashi Station for travel or connections!

Otako Honten: A Long-Established Oden Restaurant in Central Tokyo

Otako Honten is about a 7-8 minute walk from JR Tokyo Station, or about 3 minutes from Nihonbashi Station. Established in 1923 (Taisho 12), it’s a venerable establishment with 93 years of history, though it apparently moved to this location just over 10 years ago.

The giant red lantern makes you want to pass through the noren curtain.

I visited right at lunchtime on a weekday. Across from someone who looks every bit the chef making oden and toumeshi, suited people who likely work nearby are having lunch.

The menu. The signature oden looks appealing, but let me go with the toumeshi set meal… wait, what’s that in the back??

Yes, it came out instantly while I was sitting down, ordering, and taking photos of the counter. Too fast! LOL This speed is wonderful for time-pressed office workers.

There also appear to be rice bowls and set meals using Daisen chicken, and mackerel set meals. Yes, photos are nice but let’s eat before it gets cold.

Toumeshi with Broth-Soaked Tofu Has a Gentle Deliciousness

Toumeshi topped with tofu that clearly has absorbed lots of flavor, simmered dish with daikon radish, beef tendon and egg, a somewhat modest (sorry!) salad, miso soup, and pickles.

Up close, the large tofu is quite impressive. The surrounding rice also appears to have broth poured over it.

The simmered dish. There wasn’t much beef tendon, but both the daikon and simmered egg were flavorful and delicious.

The tofu is very hot and soft, with the broth’s flavor wafting from inside as well. It has a gentle taste, and you don’t mind at all that there are no other side dishes.

If you want variety mid-to-late meal, it’s good to add accent by sprinkling chili pepper or eating the more concentrated broth at the bottom. It’s also nice to vary the pace with pickles, simmered dish, and miso soup.

Final Thoughts

Toumeshi – a tofu rice bowl simmered in continuously-replenished secret broth – is definitely one Tokyo gourmet experience you should try! Next time I want to visit at night to enjoy oden with sake.

Most weekly mansions, including cleaning fees, end up costing the same or more.
In recent years, due to the increase in foreign tourists and resulting hotel shortages, especially on weekends and holidays, regular business hotels often exceed 10,000 yen per night—outrageous prices.

So I decided to stay at affordable accommodations in Minami-Senju, which also helped me during job hunting.
If you search, you can find places from around 2,000 yen per night, saving money, and the transportation is convenient since you can quickly get to Ueno.

It’s a doya-gai (skid row), so there are many homeless people and day laborers around, but I personally haven’t experienced any particular danger or high crime rates, and statistically, the crime rate doesn’t appear to be especially high either.
I think it’s a viable option for those wanting to stay in Tokyo on a budget!

Tokyo’s Largest Doya-gai: Minami-Senju

The area south of Minami-Senju Station is called “Sanya,” known as Tokyo’s largest doya-gai where many day laborers live.
“Doya” is “yado” (inn) spelled backwards, referring to cheap lodging houses.

Because there were many cheap inns, workers began gathering here, and it became known as a yoseba (a place where day laborers stay, commonly called doya-gai) in Tokyo’s Taito and Arakawa wards (former place name). Due to convenient transportation and budget hotels, it has also become popular with backpackers since 2000.
Sanya (Tokyo) – Wikipedia

This might raise concerns about safety, but unlike Osaka’s Airin district, the crime rate here doesn’t appear to be particularly high.

In fact, while I occasionally passed somewhat unsteady older men or saw people sleeping on the streets, I wasn’t bothered or witnessed any dangerous places or situations even once during my 16-day stay.
※Of course, crime isn’t nonexistent, so please be sufficiently cautious

The area has many cheap accommodation facilities like these:

There are also convenience stores, supermarkets, and some bars and diners that feel a bit intimidating to enter, filled mostly with local older men.
This is also the setting for “Ashita no Joe,” where Namida Bridge is located.

The famous eel restaurant “Obana” I wrote about before is also in Minami-Senju. Having a high-end eel restaurant near a station with a doya-gai right nearby creates quite a chaotic situation.

Three Recommended Hotels I’ve Stayed At

Just wandering around and finding accommodation on the spot would be quite challenging.
So here are three hotels I’ve stayed at and can recommend.
※Most accommodations in this area have shared toilets and baths, lockable shower booths, and rooms about 3 tatami mats in size. Many have Wi-Fi, and all three below are Wi-Fi equipped.

▼ Kangaroo Hotel

About 3,000 yen per night, the stylish “Kangaroo Hotel” with exposed concrete.
It was apparently created to help people enjoy Tokyo more affordably.

Rooms go up to the 3rd floor, but note there’s no elevator.
The 1st floor has coin laundry and showers, with microwaves, toilets, and washbasins on each floor.

The room interior. It’s small, but all accommodations in this area are similar.
Being a new building, it’s both stylish and clean.

While the area has many foreign backpackers, I noticed particularly many at this hotel.

▼ Economy Hotel Hoteiya

“Economy Hotel Hoteiya” where I stayed for about two weeks this time.
While not as new and stylish as Kangaroo Hotel, it’s cheap at 2,700 yen per night and has adequate facilities like showers, coin laundry, and microwaves.

The air conditioning seems a bit dated.

Occasionally passing hermit-like long-term residents is a bit surprising (and they smell quite a bit), but it’s fine for sleeping and light work.
Among the three I’m mentioning, this is probably the most authentically doya-gai-like accommodation.

▼ Business Hotel Fukusen

“Business Hotel Fukusen” offers reasonably clean rooms at affordable rates.
I stayed here about 8 years ago during job hunting, and I remember it being very clean, close to the station, and quite useful.
This one has an atmosphere I could recommend even to women.

Accommodation costs around 2,800-3,200 yen.
Note that there’s a curfew (23:00).

Using Airbnb is Another Option

From the perspective of staying in Tokyo cost-effectively, the home-sharing service “Airbnb” is also a viable option.
You can choose from room sharing to entire apartments or houses, with various price settings. There are expensive luxury apartments as well as budget options.
From my research, bookings are less likely to fill up compared to hotels, so even when hotels are unavailable on weekends, Airbnb often has availability. Worth checking out.

Afterword

There are many other accommodations besides those mentioned above, so you could search and book through websites, or if you’re adventurous, try walking around and looking on the day of.
Personally, when going budget I want to go really budget, and when going luxury I want to go all-out luxury, so for the former case, these cost-effective hotels are appreciated.
Please use this as reference when you want to stay in Tokyo affordably for extended periods!

On Airbnb, I could only find listings that were either far from the station or costly, so I looked for a decent business hotel.

I ultimately booked Hotel Mets Mejiro, located near JR Mejiro Station.

It’s right next to Mejiro Station on the Yamanote Line—Tokyo’s main rail artery—so access is perfect.
Just 2 minutes to Ikebukuro, 6 minutes to Shinjuku, and 13 minutes to Shibuya—close to all major stations in the city.

The price was reasonable considering this prime location, and the hotel offered exactly what you’d expect from a business hotel—no more, no less.

This hotel comes highly recommended as a Tokyo base for business or travel!

Hotel Mets Mejiro is Right Next to JR Mejiro Station

It took just under an hour from Haneda Airport by train with one transfer, and I arrived at JR Mejiro Station.

I wondered where Hotel Mets Mejiro was, and to my surprise, it was right next door!

Signs said it was a 1-minute walk—but I think I got there in 30 seconds.
As expected from a JR East–run hotel, you really can’t get any closer to the station.

Because it’s built on a slight hill, the entrance is on the 3rd floor.

After checking in, I grabbed a free coffee and headed to my room.

The lobby and check-in area are both on the 3rd floor (almost the same level as the station). The 1st floor has a few shops, the 2nd floor is parking, and guest rooms are on the 4th floor and above.

Adequately Equipped Guest Room

I arrived on the 9th floor.

Despite being 16 years old, the interior was still clean and well-maintained.

I stayed in Room 911.

The Simmons single bed was actually 140 cm wide—plenty of space for two people.

The desk included a TV, minibar, electric kettle, cups, and a desk lamp—basic necessities all covered.

There were also hangers, a trouser press, slippers, and deodorizing spray.

The unit bath had a washlet toilet, and amenities were sufficient.

Inside the desk drawer were wired LAN cables and a universal charger supporting Lightning, USB‑C, micro‑USB, CDMA (au), and FOMA 3G—very thoughtful additions.

Breakfast was served at the Italian restaurant on the same floor as the front desk (3rd floor).

The spread included salad, ham, sausage, eggs, and curry—a solid breakfast lineup for a business hotel.

Quiet Environment with Nearby Convenience

There are convenience stores nearby, as well as round-the-clock eateries like Matsuya, late-night Gusto, and Hidakaya.

Despite being near Gakushuin University, the area is very calm and quiet late at night and early in the morning—perfect for those seeking peace, though not for night owls.

I even ordered food delivery via Uber Eats to the hotel—just collected it from the front desk, which was super convenient.

Areas for Improvement

While it offered great value and location, I noticed two points worth improving:

First, breakfast. I had it three times over a five-night stay, and it was exactly the same every day—getting a bit repetitive.

Second, the Wi‑Fi process had room for improvement. Each day and each device required selecting the network and tapping “Connect.”

It wasn’t the worst, but for multi-night stays, it became a little tedious. A simple password login would be much more user-friendly.

Conclusion

Despite those minor drawbacks, this hotel offers excellent price-to-value in Tokyo—especially if you’re planning to move around a lot.

If you’re searching for a hotel during a Tokyo business trip or sightseeing, Hotel Mets Mejiro should be high on your list!

This time, I stopped by Menya Sho, a place my friend couldn’t stop raving about.

The clear, refreshing chicken broth and carefully prepared toppings like char siu left a great impression. Overall, it was a high-level bowl of ramen.

If you want to try chicken ramen in Tokyo, I highly recommend this spot!

Menya Sho: A Chicken Ramen Shop Tucked Away in Nishi-Shinjuku

Menya Sho is about a 7–8 minute walk from JR Shinjuku Station, and even closer to Seibu Shinjuku Station.

Here it is! It was around 6:00 pm on a weekday, and luckily there was no line outside. Inside, though, it was packed, including the waiting seats.

First, I bought a meal ticket. They seem to offer four main dishes all based on chicken broth: “Kousai Tori Dashi Shio,” “Kousai Tori Dashi Shoyu,” “Chicken Paitan Tsukemen,” and “Chicken Paitan Ramen.”
Since it was my first time, I went with the classic “Kousai Tori Dashi Shio,” and opted for the deluxe version.

People at the counter quietly waited and enjoyed their ramen.

After about ten minutes, I was finally seated. Right in front of me was a sign proudly listing their premium ingredients.
Eggs are “Nasu Goyo Eggs.”

Chicken is “Daisen Chicken.”
I wondered, what exactly is an air chiller system?

Their pork is “Sakurajima Biyuton.”
Cute pig—winking at me, but about to be eaten.

Clear, Flavorful Broth with Carefully Crafted Toppings

Here’s the deluxe Kousai Tori Dashi Shio Ramen.
The clear soup and colorful toppings looked incredibly appetizing.

The broth had a wonderful chicken aroma. Light yet deeply flavorful—so good!

Even for someone from Kyushu, where thin noodles reign supreme, these noodles were delightful. They coated perfectly with the broth.

Double char siu: one pork, richly fatty; the other chicken, firm and meaty. Both excellent.

Wontons that go perfectly with chicken ramen—so silky and smooth.

Egg was perfectly soft-boiled.

Finished off with tamago kake gohan (rice topped with raw egg). I love extra egg, so I also poured some soup over part of it to make a little rice porridge.

It was the first time I’d seen wasabi served with it—but it worked surprisingly well.
TKG (tamago kake gohan) with quality egg, soy sauce, and ramen broth is simply amazing.

Final Thoughts

Living in Fukuoka, the kingdom of tonkotsu, I rarely eat anything else—but Menya Sho is a deeply satisfying ramen I can recommend to anyone, even fellow Kyushu folks.

It may be slightly off the beaten path, but hey—it’s Shinjuku, so still very convenient. If you’re in the Tokyo area for business or travel, definitely give it a try!

On a recent trip to Tokyo, I stayed in an area called Minami-Senju.

Known as the setting for the manga ‘Ashita no Joe’ and for its budget accommodations, Minami-Senju is also home to one of Tokyo’s top eel restaurants—Obana. I decided to visit for a luxurious unagi lunch.

Obana: A Prestigious Unagi Restaurant Hidden in Tokyo’s Downtown

Obana is located about a 5-minute walk from Minami-Senju Station along the train tracks.

As I walked past rows of budget inns, I began to wonder if I was in the right place. Then suddenly, this majestic entrance came into view.

It looked more like a temple or the residence of a noble family. I could see a noren curtain hanging deep inside.

There was even a small torii gate and shrine in the courtyard.

It felt so refined that I hesitated—was I really allowed to go in?

But I took a deep breath and stepped under the noren.

Inside was a spacious tatami room. A friendly staff member welcomed me warmly, easing my nerves. The interior had a cozy Japanese aesthetic, complete with decorative battledores and a household altar.

The menu.
According to my friend, prices have gone up due to eel shortages.

Though the prices are on the high side, I wasn’t super hungry and had plans afterward, so I ordered the small unaju (eel rice box) and a side of kimosui (eel liver soup). Even so, the bill came to ¥4,900.

I waited about 40 minutes for the food. Although the restaurant wasn’t packed, they likely grill each eel to order, which explains the wait.

I sat patiently, hoping for the best.

Perfectly Grilled Unaju—Fluffy, Tender, and Absolutely Delicious

Finally, it arrived!

Unaju and kimosui, served in elegant lacquerware.

Lifting the lid revealed a generous portion of grilled eel covering the rice. The color and texture looked amazing.

The kimosui had a wonderful, aromatic broth.

The eel was fluffy, tender, and just melted in my mouth. Absolutely delicious!

The sauce was rich but not overpowering—unlike some cheaper versions that tend to drown the eel. Here, it perfectly complemented the fish.

Honestly, this might be the best unagi I’ve ever had. Not that I’ve eaten tons of eel in my life, but still—Obana truly lives up to its reputation as a top-tier establishment.

The lid of the box even had the Obana logo. What a meal!

Obana’s Unaju: A Worthy Splurge for a Special Occasion

It’s true that Obana’s unaju isn’t cheap—definitely not something you’d eat regularly.

But if the alternative is settling for mediocre eel from the supermarket or a chain restaurant, it’s worth splurging now and then for top-quality eel from a restaurant like this.

The place is called Andon Ryokan, located just a 5-minute walk from Minowa Station on the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line.

What made it so great?

[list class=”li-chevron li-mainbdr main-c-before”]

• Affordable—comparable to a budget business hotel
• Exceptionally warm and helpful staff who offer local tips
• Clean and stylish Japanese designer interior
• Free coffee and other beverages
• Relaxing private jacuzzi, and they offer rental bikes

[/list]

I only stayed one night this time, but I’d love to return and make it my sightseeing hub for several days. Definitely a place you’ll want to come back to.

It’s ideal for solo travelers or pairs exploring Tokyo—and I highly recommend it to international visitors too!

[memo title=”MEMO”]This review is based on a visit in 2014.[/memo]

Andon Ryokan: Just 5 Minutes from Minowa Station and Full of Hospitality

This is the entrance to Andon Ryokan. I stayed there on November 20th, and the Christmas decorations were already beautifully set up.

Next to the reception is a traditional Japanese-style tatami room where you can relax or have breakfast.

There’s also a table seating area and a kitchen with a coffee machine. Drinks like coffee are free for guests.

They have Japanese and English magazines and newspapers.

At check-in, I was served coffee and traditional sweets. I’ve never experienced that kind of hospitality outside of high-end hot spring inns!

I noticed the cup was custom-made for Andon Ryokan. Very cool.

The staff also shared an original map with recommendations for sightseeing and great local eats.

With one of their rental bikes, you can even explore Asakusa and Tokyo Skytree easily. It’s a perfect base for sightseeing.

Judging by the schedule board, it seems they regularly host events in English—probably due to their popularity with long-term international guests.

They even post a weekly schedule! These cultural events are a nice touch. I’d definitely recommend this place to friends visiting Japan.

Traditional Touches and Japanese Aesthetics Throughout

The interior is decorated with Japanese antiques you don’t often see, even in Japan.

There’s even a retro spinning sign that says “Andon,” reminiscent of old barber shops.

A mysterious hanging scroll.

The stair landings are full of interesting items too.

This is the single room I stayed in. Not spacious, but more than adequate for sleeping. The tatami was a nice touch.

Here’s the room from another angle. As you’d expect from a designer inn, it’s neatly put together.

Nice little touches like this are always appreciated. They even included an origami crane.

They also provide an English version of the facility guide.

Each room comes with a pair of traditional sandals (setta), which you can wear around the inn instead of shoes.
*Note: the setta come as a pair, even for solo travelers.

Even the sinks on each floor are stylish. Is that a rabbit logo?

Relax in a Private Rooftop Jacuzzi!

Guest rooms are located on the 1st to 3rd floors, and the 4th floor houses a private jacuzzi.

Just write your room number at the front desk to reserve a time, and you’ll have the jacuzzi all to yourself—or with a companion.

Even the entrance area features charming antiques. Seems like the owner is a fan of rabbits?

The changing area has great atmosphere too!

Even the bath etiquette sign is comic-style! Japanese bath culture can be a bit unique.

There are maneki-neko (beckoning cat) decorations too.

And here’s the private jacuzzi! Complete with original artwork on the wall.

It’s spacious enough for two, and extremely relaxing.

While the location doesn’t offer much of a view, the interior decor is thoughtfully designed to keep things interesting.

I checked in at 4 PM and no one else had booked the jacuzzi, so I got to enjoy it right away—first soak of the evening, perfect.

It was rainy, so I couldn’t check it out, but there’s a rooftop terrace too. On sunny days, it’d be a great spot to relax or chat with fellow guests.

Final Thoughts

When I stayed, it was ¥7,100 per night. Usually it ranges from about ¥6,000 to ¥8,000.

There are cheaper places in nearby Minami-Senju (as low as ¥2,000), but they tend to be very basic “just a place to sleep” types—with minimal amenities or service. Understandable for the price.

Andon Ryokan costs about as much as a low-end business hotel, but offers so much more in terms of comfort, design, and hospitality. I’d personally choose this over a standard hotel in the same price range.

It’s a perfect base for sightseeing in Tokyo—for both Japanese and international travelers. Highly recommended!

One such place is Mengyo in Kinshicho, Tokyo, known for its ramen made with sea bream broth.


While fish-based broths are common in miso soup or nabe hot pots, it’s rare to find ramen that fully embraces fish as the main ingredient. Usually, it’s just one of many flavor components like in seafood tonkotsu or soy-based blends.

Mengyo, however, is said to be one of the most popular ramen spots in Tokyo. Popularity doesn’t always equal quality, but I had to find out for myself.

So, I stopped by during off-peak hours on a weekday.

A Long Line in Kinshicho—The Popular Mengyo Sea Bream Ramen Shop

About a 7–8 minute walk from JR Kinshicho Station, tucked just off the main road, I spotted a small line.

At first, I thought I had lucked out. I figured I’d beat the lunch rush arriving around 1 PM.

Then I noticed another long line across the street, in front of a nearby park.

Turns out, that crowd was for Mengyo too. Wow—Tokyo doesn’t mess around when it comes to food.

The system is well organized: you buy your meal ticket first, then rejoin the line. This lets the staff start prepping ahead and keeps things moving smoothly.

I bought the “Rich Sea Bream Ramen with Rice Porridge Set” for 1,050 yen.

With ticket in hand, I rejoined the queue, watching a giant sea bream mural while waiting.

Once I was within five people of the entrance, I knew the wait was nearly over.

After about 40 minutes, I made it inside. Not bad for skipping the peak lunch hours. Locals said the line can get even longer, so go with extra time.

Inside, the shop is cozy with an L-shaped counter. Sea bream-themed décor added a charming touch.

Even on the counter—this sea bream was giving good vibes.

A poetic note explained Mengyo’s philosophy: broth made from Uwajima red sea bream, noodles crafted from 100% whole grain flour from Hokkaido, and smoked pork made over cherry wood.

The bald, tough-looking chef turned out to be incredibly friendly. Along with another staff member, they made for a warm and welcoming team.

A Rich Sea Bream Broth That Surprises—Flawless Noodles, Toppings, and a Zosui Finish

Because they had already taken my order, the ramen came shortly after I sat down.

This was the famous rich sea bream ramen.

I expected a clear fish broth, but the soup looked more like a creamy tonkotsu. Topped with komatsuna greens, smoked chashu, and a touch of fragrant yuzu.

Alongside it came a bowl of rice and toppings for the porridge, plus a dab of wasabi.

The soup isn’t exactly photogenic, but wow—it was incredible. Rich sea bream flavor filled my mouth without any unpleasant fishiness.

The chashu resembled thinly sliced ham, lightly seasoned and smoky. I could snack on this with a drink any day.

The whole grain noodles had a nice bite and a wheat aroma that balanced the soup perfectly.

Beneath the chashu was flaked, grilled sea bream, adding depth and smokiness.

And finally, the porridge. Add the rice to the remaining soup to soak up every last drop of that delicious sea bream broth. A reheating system would’ve been nice, but still—so satisfying.

Final Thoughts

This isn’t tonkotsu, soy, miso, or shio—it’s a truly unique sea bream broth ramen.

It’s an experience you won’t easily find elsewhere. Worth the wait if you’re up for something different.

With its refined interior, gracious hospitality, and incredibly aromatic chicken-based ramen, this shop exceeded all expectations. While I personally don’t always associate queues with quality, this place truly lived up to the hype. The line before opening was totally justified.

If you’re a ramen enthusiast, this chicken ramen gem is a must-visit.

[memo title=”MEMO”]This article and photos are from a visit in 2014.[/memo]

A Chicken Ramen Specialty Shop in Yokohama’s Yoshinocho: Toriku ~TRICK~

Toriku ~TRICK~ is located just steps from Yoshinocho Station, about 10 minutes on the Yokohama Municipal Subway Blue Line from Yokohama Station. It might feel a bit far from central Tokyo, but it’s absolutely worth the trip (more on that later).

I arrived around 10:45 AM on a weekday, 15 minutes before opening, and there were already 7–8 people ahead of me.

Outside, there’s an illustration of a rooster with a notable mane and brows, slurping ramen. Funny, but kind of ironic considering it’s probably made from his brethren.

Coincidentally, my visit fell on their 2nd anniversary (November 20). They were serving only a special limited chicken paitan ramen. I was hoping to try their regular menu, but took this as a stroke of good luck.

Just before me, the first batch of customers was allowed inside, so I waited at the front of the line. The staff handed out warm tea to those waiting—such a thoughtful gesture.

Elegant Interior, Graceful Service, and Tranquil Atmosphere

Soon enough, I was seated. The shop is small, with one table and a counter, but it’s clean and well-maintained.

The kitchen looks more like that of a fine restaurant than a typical ramen shop. The owner and staff provide calm and courteous service, speaking with gentle tones like “Excuse me” and “Certainly” instead of shouting orders.

Their menu features the same rooster mascot—quite muscular, actually.

I ordered the special limited ramen with bonito oil, plus a chicken chashu rice bowl. Apparently, this rich soup uses almost double the usual amount of chicken.

They also take pride in their marinated soft-boiled eggs and noodles. Their regular menu includes shio (salt) and shoyu (soy sauce) ramen, each with distinct noodles.

And here it is—the ramen! With a presentation that wouldn’t look out of place in a high-end restaurant, this bowl looked nothing like typical ramen. Stunning.

A Clean, Rich Chicken Broth and Perfectly Paired Noodles and Toppings

The creamy chicken paitan soup is rich yet not overwhelming. It doesn’t hit you all at once like some intense ramen, but rather envelops your palate with gentle umami.

The flat noodles cling to the soup beautifully.

The chicken chashu is roasted, aromatic, and low in fat—something health-conscious diners will appreciate.

Not quite sure what this ingredient was—but it tasted great!

While photographing the soft-boiled egg, the rooster mascot photobombed me. Feels like he’s asking, “Did I lay that one?” The egg was perfectly soft inside and delicious.

The rice bowl featured chopped, stir-fried chashu different from the ramen version. Topped with minced chicken sauce in the center, it showed the same attention to detail. Superb.

It’s no wonder I ended up like this—completely satisfied.

Final Thoughts

From the food and the people to the ambiance, this place is undoubtedly top-tier. The ramen is light and elegant, making it easy to recommend even to women and older guests.

Next time, I’ll try their regular shio or shoyu ramen.

Although it’s a bit far from central Tokyo, this is one ramen shop in the greater Tokyo area that you absolutely should try. Highly recommended.

The place I chose this time was Bondy, a European-style curry restaurant located in Jimbocho, Tokyo’s famous bookstore district.

At 1,480 yen per dish (as of 2014), it might seem a bit pricey for curry—but the deep, rich flavor was absolutely worth it. Highly recommended!

Bondy: A Top-Rated Curry Spot in Jimbocho’s Bookstore District

Using a map, I arrived at the location where Bondy’s Jimbocho main store was supposed to be.

It seemed to be here, but even after going up to the second floor, it was just another bookstore—so I couldn’t find the entrance at first.

After walking around, I finally discovered the entrance was actually in the back—easy to miss, so be aware!

I spotted Bondy’s sign, complete with the nostalgic KEY COFFEE logo—this must be the place!

Climbing to the second floor, the katakana for “Bondy” reassured me I had the right location.

It was past 2:00 PM on a weekday, so luckily there was no line. But during lunch, dinner, or weekends, you can expect long waits—come prepared!

Inside, there are a few counter seats and several tables. The décor resembles a cozy upscale café, possibly to reflect the European style.

The menu shows that one curry costs 1,480 yen (as of 2014)—a bit of a splurge for everyday folks. But great curry is worth every yen!
Of course, I went with their signature beef curry.

Condiments and pickles are available at the table.

Rich, Creamy, and Deeply Flavorful—Bondy’s European-Style Curry Is Divine

First, they serve steamed potatoes with butter. They’re delicious on their own or mixed with curry.

And then comes the curry! The sauce pot gives off a gourmet vibe.

The rice is topped with shredded cheese and served with pickles.

Chunks of beef overflow from the curry sauce boat.

From the deep brown color and thick consistency, you can tell how rich and flavorful this sauce is going to be.

Infused with dairy, fruits, vegetables, and spices, this curry is smooth, rich, and unbelievably good. The hearty beef adds both flavor and satisfaction. An absolute masterpiece—beyond words!

Is it even possible to top this in the world of European-style curry?

Bondy: Arguably the Best of Jimbocho’s Famous Curry Scene

Jimbocho is known not just for its used bookstores, but also for its many top-notch curry shops.

Among them, Bondy stands out as one of the most popular and beloved spots.

Bondy serves incredible European-style curry that I personally love.

If you ever find yourself craving a slightly indulgent but delicious curry, you owe it to yourself to visit this place. You won’t regret it!

This hamburger steak chain is only found in Shizuoka Prefecture. I’ve often heard both locals and visitors rave about how delicious “Sawayaka’s hamburg steak” is, making me eager to try it at least once.

For Shizuoka residents, it’s safe to say this is a true soul food.

Arriving at Shizuoka Station just before noon, I headed straight to “Sawayaka” for a hamburger steak lunch.

The signature “Genkotsu Hamburg” (Fist-sized Hamburger Steak), cooked to a slightly rare doneness, was juicy, with just the right texture and umami, making it easy to understand why so many people are hooked.

Without a doubt, this is a must-try dish when visiting Shizuoka!

The Extremely Crowded “Sawayaka Shin-Shizuoka Cenova Branch” Even on Weekdays

“Sawayaka” has about 30 locations across Shizuoka Prefecture, mainly centered around Hamamatsu.

Most of these locations are not easily accessible without a car. However, I chose to visit the most convenient branch within walking distance of Shizuoka Station: the Shin-Shizuoka Cenova Branch.

It was around 12:30 PM, peak lunchtime, and there was already a long queue.

Inside the restaurant, the wait was just as intense. When I asked a staff member, they told me there were 37 groups ahead of me, with an estimated wait time of about an hour.

On a weekday lunch break? Just how popular is this place?!

(Perhaps the presence of many high school and university students at the end of March contributed to the crowd.)

When I informed @kankichi from Wakatta Blog, whom I was scheduled to meet that day, he generously offered to take me to another location with a shorter wait time.

Thank you—really, thank you so much…!

Enjoying Genkotsu Hamburg at the More Accessible “Sawayaka Shizuoka Ikeda Branch”

We then headed to the Sawayaka Shizuoka Ikeda Branch.

Luckily, we were seated almost immediately.

While there are several types of hamburger steaks, when it comes to Sawayaka, the Genkotsu Hamburg is the only way to go.

I followed the staff’s recommendation for doneness: “slightly red inside,” which is roughly equivalent to medium rare.

The recommended sauce is onion-based, as advised by the locals.

Apparently, ordering the demi-glace sauce is considered a bit of a faux pas—so much so that Shizuoka locals might look at you in shock!

Kind of like ordering soft noodles at a Hakata ramen shop.

Unlike the lively and youthful atmosphere of the Shin-Shizuoka Cenova branch, this location had a more relaxed customer base.

Of course, the crowd varies depending on the time and day.

Final Touches at Your Table – Don’t Forget to Say “I’ll Pour the Sauce Myself”

The meal starts with a bowl of soup while waiting for the hamburger steak.

After a short wait, the sizzling Genkotsu Hamburg finally arrives!

The final preparation is done right in front of you by the staff—a performance that enhances the anticipation.

Be sure to use the provided paper as an apron to protect yourself from the splattering meat juices.

For those unable to watch the video, here’s a step-by-step in photos.

When you cut into the plump hamburger steak with a knife…

You’re met with an astonishingly rare, bright red interior.

The next step is to press the cut surface down onto the sizzling hot iron plate to sear it further.

The sound of sizzling meat and the irresistible aroma fill the air, stimulating all your senses.

Finally, once it puffs up slightly, it’s ready to eat!

Make sure to tell the staff, “I’ll pour the sauce myself” (more details below).

The Ultimate Way to Eat: Half with Sauce, Half with Salt & Pepper

And here it is, the legendary “Sawayaka Genkotsu Hamburg.”

At 250g, it’s about the same size as two standard hamburger steaks.

@kankichi, a local, shared a pro tip on how to enjoy it best:

“Eat half with the onion sauce, and the other half with just salt & pepper.”

The staff usually pour the sauce for you at the end, but we intentionally say, “I’ll pour it myself.” Why? Because there’s a secret trick.

This Genkotsu Hamburg is incredibly delicious with just salt & pepper! The best way to enjoy it like a connoisseur is to eat half with salt & pepper and the other half with sauce (I personally recommend the onion sauce).
Masami Nagasawa’s Favorite Hamburg Steak? – Wakatta Blog

The reason for pouring the sauce yourself is to leave half of the steak for salt & pepper seasoning.

First, generously pour the onion sauce over one half.

For the other half, simply sprinkle salt & pepper.

Of course, I took photos, but honestly, @kankichi’s shots looked way better, so I borrowed his (thanks!).

The juicy, flavorful hamburger steak, with just the right amount of chewiness, combined with the rich sweetness of the onion sauce—pure bliss.

But the real surprise was the salt & pepper version.

The natural beef flavor and the satisfying texture of the Genkotsu Hamburg stood out even more. Honestly, it was hard to choose, but I personally preferred the salt & pepper side.

Leaving the center slightly rare is the signature “Sawayaka style.” Cooking preferences vary, but unless you strongly prefer well-done meat, it’s best to go with the restaurant’s recommendation.

Final Thoughts

Before visiting, I thought, “Hamburger steaks are delicious anywhere. How different could this really be?”

Well… I sincerely apologize for my ignorance.

Actresses like Masami Nagasawa (who is from Shizuoka) and Kanako Momota from Momoiro Clover Z have publicly declared their love for Sawayaka, but I now understand—it’s not just because they’re locals.

It’s simply because it’s that good.

If you ever find yourself in Shizuoka, do yourself a favor and try the exquisite Genkotsu Hamburg at Sawayaka.

As someone who loves curry, especially European-style curry, I find Jimbocho irresistible. This Tokyo neighborhood is renowned for its amazing curry spots, making it a paradise for curry enthusiasts.

Since my first visit to Bondy Jimbocho Main Branch, I’ve made it a habit to stop by Jimbocho whenever I’m in Tokyo.

This time, I visited another highly-rated establishment: “Gavial”, and it absolutely lived up to its reputation.

Just writing about it makes me crave it all over again. If you’re a curry lover, this is a must-visit spot.

Established in 1982: Gavial, a Renowned European Curry Restaurant in Jimbocho

Located just steps away from Jimbocho Station on the Toei Mita, Shinjuku, and Tokyo Metro Hanzomon lines, Gavial is an iconic spot for European-style curry.

With its cozy entrance, you head up to the second floor, bypassing the bustling udon joint Hanamaru on the way.

I visited during the weekday lunch hour, around 12:00 PM. Although the place was full, I was lucky to get a seat without having to wait. Customers came steadily, but the turnover seemed quick enough.

The interior offers about 20–30 seats, a mix of counter and table seating.

The prices might seem steep for curry, but they are typical for long-established European curry spots like Bondy or Gavial. Trusting that it would be worth it, I ordered the Beef Curry (spicy) for ¥1,500.
(as of 2014)

Creamy and Rich: A Curry to Remember

In just 5–10 minutes, my order arrived: a luxurious beef curry paired with the classic side of steamed potatoes.

The thick, velvety curry sauce was studded with large chunks of tender beef.

The rice was topped with grated cheese (or butter?)—a perfect match for the curry.

The potatoes, served right away, can be enjoyed on their own or paired with the curry.

The condiments included well-crafted pickles like fukujinzuke and rakkyo—nothing like the artificially colored versions found in budget curry joints.

I carefully poured the curry onto the rice and took my first bite. Oh, so creamy!

The buttery richness and aromatic spices filled my mouth with pure delight. Absolutely my kind of curry.

The spiciness came in just after swallowing, leaving a pleasant, lingering warmth.

The beef was tender enough to fall apart with a bite, perfectly complementing the rice. This curry truly stands out for its completeness and flavor. It was divine.

Final Thoughts

I’d heard about Jimbocho’s reputation as a curry hub, but experiencing both Bondy and Gavial confirmed its culinary excellence. What a remarkable neighborhood.

Back in Fukuoka, European-style curry spots are rare—most places lean toward Asian-inspired curries. If anyone knows of a great spot, please let me know!

By the way, Gavial’s curry is available online for delivery. While the lower price might suggest slight differences from the in-store experience, it’s worth a try for those far from Tokyo.
(Confession: I’m on the verge of ordering it myself…)

Apparently, you can assemble a Mini 4WD you purchase there and race it on the circuit.

As someone born in the ’80s and part of the Mini 4WD craze generation, I couldn’t afford to lose as a proud representative of my hometown, Nagasaki!

So, I went with two friends to check it out.

Amazing Models on Display and Mini 4WDs in the Basement

The Tamiya Plamodel Factory Shimbashi store is about a 5-6 minute walk from Shimbashi Station.

Just seeing the iconic red and blue star logo got me hyped up!

On the first floor, there are various military and other model kits, while Mini 4WD cars are in the basement.

The basement was bustling with families, couples, and young enthusiasts.

They even have legendary cars like the Emperor from the Dash! Yonkuro series, sure to excite fans of that era.

Assemble Your Mini 4WD On-Site and Race Immediately!

Spending over 1,000 yen grants you access to the “Modeler’s Square,” a space where you can assemble your Mini 4WD and test it on the circuit. How cool is that?

I chose the latest model of Avante, a car deeply nostalgic to me, and of course, went with its iconic blue.

Additionally, I picked up a Mach Dash motor, rollers, and mass dampers for stability (essential to prevent derailing, as my friends advised).

Time to start building!
(*Note: You’ll need tools like pliers and screwdrivers, so bring your own.)

Building it after so many years was surprisingly enjoyable.

Completion and Race Results…

After about 30 minutes of assembly, it’s finally done! I skipped most of the decals because, well, effort.

Here are the cars we’ll be racing: mine is in the middle, and my friends’ creations are on either side. Their setups look much more advanced, but I won’t back down!

We brought our cars to the track, and the race began!

And the result… my car was the first to derail. A crushing defeat.

Back in the day, weight reduction was all the rage, with people cutting their cars into mesh-like structures. Now, stability is king, with parts like mass dampers adding weight for better performance.

The car with brakes, owned by @isloop, stayed on the track the longest and won. However, its slow speed and lackluster jumps left me wondering if I could tweak my car for a comeback…

Here’s a video of the Mini 4WD circuit to end on a high note. Fellow fans from my generation, this is sure to excite you!

Building and Racing with Friends and Family: Pure Fun!

What surprised me most was the number of young women participating. Mini 4WD used to be considered a “boys’ toy,” but times are clearly changing.

Whether you’re a nostalgic fan or just curious, this is a fun activity you shouldn’t miss. Give it a try!

As of 2024, it is the second tallest man-made structure in the world (the tallest is Dubai’s Burj Khalifa), and it is certainly the tallest in Japan.

Initially, it was quite difficult to get tickets as it was crowded, but lately, it seems you can easily go up even on weekdays.

Since I was in Tokyo, I decided to visit too!

Tokyo’s New Symbol: ‘Tokyo Skytree’

Tokyo Skytree is located in Sumida Ward, Oshiage, Tokyo.

The nearest station is Tobu’s Tokyo Skytree Station, which was built in conjunction with the opening of Skytree.

Tobu is also the developer of the Skytree.

Many stores and souvenir shops inspired by Skytree line the path from the station to the tower.

There it is! It’s really tall.

Taking the escalator to the entrance of Skytree.

Denny’s also has a special version called ‘SOLAN’.

Even a Sazae-san tea house. I wonder if there’s a connection.

Skytree Entrance Bustling with Tourists Every Day

We’ve made it to the base of Skytree!

It was December 21st, so the entrance was decked out for Christmas.

I arrived just before noon on a Friday, and it was quite crowded.
(It’s still not as bad as it could be…)

To prevent boredom while waiting in line, there were detailed animations created by teamLab.

Despite the line, it moved quickly, and I reached the counter in about 10 minutes.

Tickets for the Tembo Deck are 2,100 yen, and the Tembo Deck plus the Tembo Galleria are 3,100 yen (as of January 2024).

Passing through the gate and boarding the elevator to the Tembo Deck.

The elevator has four units, each themed after a season. I rode the one themed for summer that day.

The Tembo Deck is at an altitude of 350m. We’ve arrived!

‘Tembo Deck’ Offers Panoramic Views of Tokyo

True to its name, Tokyo Skytree was bustling even on a weekday afternoon.

At this point, we are already higher than the Tokyo Tower (333m).

Overlooking the city of Tokyo. So many buildings.

Above the Tembo Deck is the Tembo Galleria (450m), the highest point tourists can reach. Must go up there.

Heading there via another elevator.

Viewing the High-Rise Buildings from 451.2m ‘Tembo Galleria’

Arrived at the Tembo Galleria!

It might be hard to tell from the photos, but indeed it’s higher than before.

Looking straight down. Wow, it’s high.

Unfortunately, it was a bit cloudy that day, but the view overlooking Tokyo was still impressive. There are no taller buildings around here.

A rooftop of some high-rise building with a helipad visible, but even that is way down below.

Reached the highest point of the Tembo Galleria.

Apparently, it’s 451.2m. If converted to a high-rise building’s floors, it would be around 100 floors. It’s just a number that’s hard to grasp.

Tokyo looking like a miniature model.

Time to Buy Some Skytree Souvenirs

Back at the Tembo Deck again.
There’s a glass floor at floor 340. Those with a fear of heights, be cautious. (Though such people probably wouldn’t go up in the first place.)

On the way down, the elevator. This one’s themed for winter.

At the bottom, there’s a photo spot with the Skytree character and souvenir shops.

Tokyo’s New Landmark: ‘Tokyo Skytree’

Tokyo’s new tourist attraction, the Tokyo Skytree.

It’s one of those places you should visit at least once in your life.

Just be prepared for it to be extremely crowded on weekends, so expect it to take some time.