It’s one of Japan’s Three Great Inari Shrines, along with Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto and Kasama Inari Shrine in Ibaraki. From the photos, it looked impressively grand.

Embarrassingly, despite being from Nagasaki and living in Fukuoka, this was the first time I’d heard of it. My apologies…

Counted as one of Japan’s Three Great Inari Shrines, it receives endless prayers for business prosperity, family fortune, abundant catches, traffic safety, and various other wishes, attracting about 3 million visitors annually. The main hall, kagura hall, tower gate, and other structures are all finished in lacquer with brilliant colors, creating a magnificent and splendid appearance known as the “Nikko of Western Japan,” adding a unique touch to the tourist route.
About Yutoku Inari Shrine | Yutoku Inari Shrine

The large red shrine buildings rising against the backdrop of green trees are truly fantastic—simply put, they’re incredibly cool.

The grounds include a Japanese garden, and when I visited, peonies were blooming beautifully. Across from the shrine is the Yutoku Museum, displaying excavated treasures and historical materials, surrounded by the beautiful flowers of Higashiyama Park.

I couldn’t help thinking that people in Saga should promote this shrine more! Though it’s worth noting that it already ranks second in Kyushu for visitor numbers, so perhaps I was just the one who didn’t know about it.

Yutoku Inari Shrine: Red Main Hall Against Green Trees

Upon arrival, I was amazed by its scale beyond imagination. I had no idea Yutoku Inari Shrine was such a magnificent shrine!

Across from the shrine, next to the parking lot, is Higashiyama Park with blooming azaleas.

Like Fushimi Inari, it has expansive grounds extending not just around the main hall but all the way to the inner shrine near the mountain peak.

We passed through the stone torii gate and proceeded deeper into the grounds.

Then the main hall, surrounded by trees, came into view. The vivid red stands out beautifully against the green foliage.

The tower gate is also quite impressive. There were many tour groups from overseas as well.

Like Kyoto’s Kiyomizu Temple, this shrine features wooden framework construction with the main hall elevated high above. The view must be spectacular.

A view from the front. The current main hall was rebuilt in 1957 after the original was destroyed by fire in 1949. Thanks to excellent maintenance, it’s hard to believe it’s been 60 years.

First, we paid our respects at the kagura hall, then decided to climb up to the main hall.

The more I look at it, the more dignified the main hall appears.

We climbed the 117 steps. There are maple trees along the way, making me imagine how beautiful it must be in autumn.

This is the main hall, decorated with vibrant colors.

I performed the traditional two bows, two claps, and one bow.

From the elevated main hall, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the shrine buildings and the flowers of Higashiyama Park. What a view!

I noticed after descending that there’s a surprisingly modern elevator alongside the stairs to reach the main hall. While it costs 300 yen, you apparently receive an original fortune slip as a souvenir.

I didn’t draw a fortune because I only saw generic ones (I’m a purist for shrine-original fortunes), but I had no idea there was this system of receiving one by taking the elevator…

From the Main Hall: The Path to the Inner Shrine with Rows of Torii Gates

From beside the main hall, a path continues to the inner shrine at the mountain peak. It’s apparently about 300 meters along a mountain trail.

While not as extensive as Fushimi Inari Taisha, walking through the rows of red torii gates is delightful in itself.

The weathered torii gates add wonderful character.

We decided to skip visiting the inner shrine due to our schedule, but I recommend it if you have time.

Japanese Garden: Enjoy Seasonal Flowers Year-Round

At Yutoku Inari Shrine’s Japanese garden, you can enjoy the elegant garden and seasonal flowers throughout the year. Admission is 200 yen.

When I visited, many peonies in full bloom were on display.

The white, pink, and red varieties were vibrant and beautiful.

While I initially thought “They charge admission?”, the quality was definitely worth the price.

Final Thoughts

Since it’s located in the Nagasaki-facing part of Saga Prefecture, I recommend adding it to your itinerary if you’re traveling to Saga or Nagasaki. It’s also close to Ureshino Onsen and Takeo Onsen hot spring resorts.

*Information is current as of article publication. Please verify details on the official website.

Personally, I didn’t care for what I had at Hakata Station before and avoided it for a while, but I reconsidered that I should properly check by eating at the main branch, so I headed to the main branch located off Watanabe-dori.

“Daruma Ramen,” the predecessor of Hakata Daruma, was a ramen shop once operated by current owner Hideto Kawahara’s parents in Hakozaki, Higashi Ward. Hideto Kawahara is also the founder of the famous “Hidechan Ramen.” What a ramen dynasty.

変化し続ける有名店「秀ちゃんラーメン」当たり外れあるものの行く価値あり

福岡に数多くあるラーメン店の中でも、かなり知名度が高く東京にも出店している「博多だるま」と「秀ちゃんラーメン」。この2つは同じ会社が経営しているのをご存知でしょうか？この会社を経営しているのは、東区箱崎で営業しており学生時代私もよく食べに行...

ushigyu.net

After temporarily closing in 2000, his son Hideto inherited it and revived it at the current location, continuing to this day. Actually, I also lived in Hakozaki during my student days, so my friends and I often went to “Daruma Ramen.”

So it should be a nostalgic taste, but I feel the flavor is quite different from back then. Though my memory is admittedly hazy… It was over 20 years ago, after all.

So, setting aside the past, this visit was to judge based on the current taste.

Access and Transportation to Hakata Daruma Main Branch

Hakata Daruma Main Branch is on the southern edge of Tenjin, Fukuoka City’s premier entertainment district. It’s quite a distance – about a 16-minute walk from Subway Airport Line Tenjin Station, or about an 8-minute walk from Nanakuma Line Tenjin-Minami Station, somewhat far.

Unless you want to enjoy a walk, I recommend taking Nishitetsu Bus or taxi.

For example, from Hakata Station, depending on the route and time, it takes about 15 minutes total, including about 4 minutes walking.

There’s also the option of using rental bicycle service. In Fukuoka as of 2022, “ChariChari” is pretty much the only option.

Heading to Hakata Daruma Main Branch, South of Tenjin

The main branch of “Hakata Daruma” is slightly south of Tenjin, about a 10-minute walk from Tenjin-Minami Station. The modest building and additions are characteristic, unlike what you’d expect from a famous shop’s main branch.

It’s a meal ticket system, with ramen at 700 yen – quite an aggressive price. Noodle firmness can be chosen from barikatta, kata, regular, or yawa. As an aside, Fukuoka locals mostly order “kata.” Occasionally “regular.” Mostly tourists order “barikatta.”

The interior has exposed concrete with a slightly stylish feel.

On the table are white pickled ginger, sesame, pepper, gyoza sauce, and chili oil. No spicy mustard greens.

【April 2018】Slightly Heavy on Fat? But Delicious Ramen

The ramen arrived shortly after. Looks like standard Hakata ramen.

The toppings are also orthodox – just two slices of chashu and green onions.

A sip of soup… oh!? Much tastier than my previous impression. (Sorry) When I ate at Hakata Station before, the flavor seemed thin, but this has a moderate pork bone flavor with decent punch.

Not my top recommendation, but much tastier than I remembered. Maybe because it’s the main branch. (@ Hakata Daruma in Fukuoka City, Fukuoka) https://t.co/7PAQodPLqD pic.twitter.com/tURMxMaOYC

— Shotaro Ushijima (@ushigyu) March 30, 2018

The noodles are ultra-thin, which as far as I remember, I’ve only seen at Shin-Shin. Recommended to order kata and eat quickly.

The chashu is slightly out of focus, but typical of Hakata ramen – two thin slices without much volume, but the flavor is well absorbed.

It’s reasonably delicious, but personally I feel there’s a bit too much fat for the flavor intensity. The richness is 5 out of 5, but the flavor punch is only about 3 out of 5, so it feels unbalanced. If going for rich and hearty, I’d want a more powerful flavor, and if aiming for accessible and balanced taste, I’d want less fat. After eating, it hit my stomach several times harder than the impression while eating.

【April 2022】Recreating Original Recipe: Transformed into Intensely Rich, Pork-Smelling Wild Ramen!

The “Hakata Daruma Main Branch” ramen I saw in YouTube videos looked completely different from what I’d eaten before…! To verify what was happening, I revisited in April 2022 after a long absence.

The signboard that should have been white is now orange, already different from the exterior.

Compared to four years ago, ramen has only increased by 20 yen. The menu has expanded with fried rice and small appetizers.

Inside the shop is the signboard from when they operated in Hakozaki, Higashi Ward from founding until around 2000. Actually, I attended Kyushu University in Hakozaki starting in 1999 right before they closed, so I often ate Daruma Ramen after drinking. So nostalgic.

I admittedly don’t remember the visuals from 20 years ago well, but the ramen photo is clearly a different color from four years ago. What kind of ramen will arrive…?

The ramen that arrived bore no resemblance to four years ago. What is this brown foam…! While Ikkousha and Issou are famous for foam-style ramen, this has a different wild color.

The tsukimi ramen my wife ordered. This also naturally has the same base, so wild appearance.

My ramen has such a thick layer of fat (lard?) that when I put in chopsticks, I can see through it for a while.

When I scoop it with a spoon, it looks about 70% fat. Is this the default…?

But when I work hard to mix from the bottom and scoop and drink, while wild and pork-smelling, it has strong umami and is very delicious! While easy-to-eat, well-behaved ramen suppressing pork smell is increasing, “Hakata Daruma Main Branch” that dared to change to this much wildness is not to be underestimated…!

Since it was so different from last time, I researched and found they renewed to the original recipe on the occasion of their 58th anniversary in December 2021. Only the main branch changed to the original recipe, while other branches keep the previous “Hakata Daruma” taste.

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A post shared by Hakata Daruma Main Branch(@hakata_daruma_honten)

The noodles are ultra-thin, firmly bringing the soup flavor to your mouth.

The fried rice and gyoza are also properly delicious. Should satisfyingly and deliciously fill the stomachs of those wanting to eat heartily.

Still, the amount of fat in my ramen seemed excessive, but my wife’s ramen (though it has a fat layer) wasn’t as much as my soup. Since I didn’t order extra rich, there may still be quality variations since they just renewed. Looking forward to improvements.

It had become completely different from the previous “Hakata Daruma Main Branch” image – wild, pork-smelling ramen with intense punch. I also ate at Hakozaki Daruma often, but I honestly don’t remember how accurate the flavor recreation is… It was over 20 years ago after all. (I feel there was a fat layer, but not this much punch power…)

People who like “that kind of ramen” will surely love it. Very delicious but beware of indigestion.

Final Thoughts

Ramen preferences vary widely, so as with any shop, some people will like it and others won’t. There’s no doubt it’s one of Fukuoka’s leading famous shops, so I think it’s worth visiting and judging for yourself!

While it’s called a soul food of Fukuoka, due to delivery logistics, it had only existed along highways in the suburbs, which was unfortunate as you couldn’t eat it in downtown Fukuoka.

But Maki no Udon has now opened at Hakata Bus Terminal right next to Hakata Station! I rushed over to inspect and sample it.

While operations differ somewhat from existing large stores, what was served was unmistakably Maki no Udon. As a Fukuoka resident, I’m thrilled it’s now in an easily accessible location.

Maki no Udon Opens in Hakata Bus Terminal Basement

Maki no Udon opened at Hakata Bus Terminal, which is connected to Hakata Station. You can easily access it via the underground passage from the subway or JR station, or by exiting Hakata Station’s main exit and turning right.

The shop is next to Mos Burger, in a slightly recessed location if coming via the underground passage. “Kamaage Maki no Udon” – this is definitely it.

Perhaps to reduce labor costs, unlike other locations, this one uses a meal ticket system. There are also set menus that other stores don’t have, showing consideration for the different location and customer base. Since it was still morning, I ordered conservatively: a mini udon and mini kashiwa rice set.

Existing stores occupy spacious suburban sites with attached noodle-making facilities, but being in a basement near Hakata Station, that’s obviously not possible here. The capacity is about 30-40 people, and there’s clearly no space for noodle-making. They’re probably delivered directly from a nearby location.

Green onions and chili peppers on the table. As a green onion lover, having all-you-can-add green onions really elevates my impression of a place.

The Joy of Tasting “Those Noodles” Near the Station

Mini udon and mini kashiwa rice set has arrived! A characteristic of Maki no Udon is that it comes with a kettle containing extra dashi broth for adding.

Being mini size, it’s somewhat less impressive, but you can still immediately see these are “those noodles.” (By the way, this is medium firmness – you can choose from firm, medium, or soft. If you don’t want them to expand too much, choose firm.) Despite being small, it comes with meat udon toppings, fried shrimp, and boiled egg, giving it good value.

Mini kashiwa rice. About the size of one rice ball. But combined with the mini udon, I think it’s enough for one adult serving. (Meaning the regular udon is quite substantial in volume.)

By the way, this is my perfect udon customized to personal preference. I love green onions.

While not as dramatic since it’s mini size, if you dawdle, the noodles absorb broth and expand to the point where you think “Wait, did I order zaru udon?” so add soup from the kettle when it runs low. The broth in the kettle seems slightly saltier than what’s initially in the bowl, so be careful about sodium intake.

Final Thoughts

I’m very pleased that Maki no Udon, which previously required a considerable bus or car/motorcycle journey to reach, is now in an easily accessible location.

This is definitely going on my list of strong dining candidates when visiting the Hakata Station area.

By the way, for those from other prefectures, Maki no Udon does not equal Hakata udon. While it does have the characteristic soft noodles typical of Hakata udon, only Maki no Udon expands this aggressively, and there are almost no other shops with noodles this thick.

To give an analogy, it’s like saying Tokyo ramen ≠ Ramen Jiro, you know? (Hope that gets across)

In Nagasaki, where flat land is scarce and mountains are abundant, buildings are constructed along the slopes, and when darkness falls, it creates a night view rarely seen in other places.

While Hakodate, Kobe, and Nagasaki are known as Japan’s Three Great Night Views, Nagasaki has also been selected as one of the “World’s New Top Three Night Views.”

However, this was certified at the “Night View Summit 2012 in Nagasaki” based on a survey by a Japanese organization, so you should probably factor in some local bias. Regardless of whether it’s included in the world’s top three night views, there’s no doubt that Nagasaki’s night view is beautiful.

As a local, you’d never go there except on a date (which is why I never had the chance), but I recently went while visiting for the Lantern Festival, so here’s my report!

To Mount Inasa Observatory by Car, Bus, or Ropeway

There are several routes to the Mount Inasa observatory. Here are your options for reference:

Route 1: Drive to the paid parking lot next to the observatory
Disadvantage: The paid parking lot only holds 40 cars, so it may be full on weekends and busy times. Entry restrictions may be in place (Reference: Access | Inasayama Park WEB)

Route 2: Drive to the large free parking lot before the observatory, then walk or take a shuttle bus to the observatory
Disadvantage: About a 15-minute walk from the free parking lot to the observatory. Shuttle bus times are fixed

Route 3: Use the ropeway (Reference: Nagasaki Ropeway | Operating Information)
Disadvantage: Need to take a bus to the boarding area. Note the ropeway operating hours (9:00-22:00)

Route 4: Take a regular bus to the free parking lot, then shuttle bus from there
Disadvantage: Regular buses run about once every 30 minutes (Reference: Quick Timetable & Fare Search | Nagasaki Bus)

Route 5: Taxi

This time I chose Route 2 above. I headed to the free parking lot by rental car, then took the shuttle bus to the observatory from there.

If you want to enjoy watching the city gradually transform into its nighttime face, arriving a little before sunset is best.

Nagasaki City is full of mountains and slopes, but surprisingly doesn’t have many high-altitude mountains. So all of Nagasaki’s major broadcasting stations have installed their antennas next to the observatory on the relatively high Mount Inasa (333 meters).

From next to the observatory, you can already see Nagasaki’s city and harbor at a glance.

The weather wasn’t great this day, but still a good view.

Let’s enter the cylindrical observation tower.

Wait for Nightfall While Viewing Outside from Inside the Observatory

Inside there’s a rest area and some small exhibits.

This day there was a Mount Inasa Photo Contest display.

The outside is a spiral upward slope, and as you go up there’s an observation deck.

Selected as one of the World’s New Top Three Night Views along with Hong Kong and Monaco. While it was chosen by a Japanese organization at a summit held in Nagasaki so you should read between the lines, there’s no doubt it’s a very beautiful night view.

Benches are installed on the spiral slope, so many people wait here for nightfall while watching outside.

Even from here you can see a beautiful night view.

I climbed up the slope to just before the observation deck. But this day the temperature was low and the wind was strong, making it incredibly cold, so I decided to wait inside until nightfall before going out.

By the way, next to it there’s also a restaurant where you can dine while viewing Nagasaki’s scenery and night view. The panel featuring Taro Hakase is prominent, but he doesn’t have any particular connection to Nagasaki – he performs “Nagasaki Nocturne,” the theme song for the New Top Three Night Views promoting Nagasaki tourism.

As sunset approaches, tourists keep arriving. Though it’s a weekday, the Lantern Festival is in session. The impression is about half Japanese and half Chinese/Korean tourists.

It’s gradually getting darker and looking good. Already beautiful…!

Let’s go up to the observation deck now.

Enjoy One of the World’s Finest Night Views Created by Terrain and Harbor

This day the temperature was approaching 0°C, one of the coldest days of the year. Plus it was snowing and windy – just freezing! But since we came all this way, we must see the night view! Must take photos!

Whoa…! So beautiful!! It truly deserves to be called a million-dollar night view. (Though it’s surely worth more than a million dollars now)

Everyone is freezing saying “So cold!” but still gazing at the night view.

The observation deck is fairly spacious with platforms in the back, so even when many people come, everyone can properly view the night scene.

Antennas, parking lot, night view. This contrast is also beautiful.

Nagasaki’s narrow, deep harbor and the lights from buildings and roads along the slopes create one of the world’s finest night views.

After enjoying the night view, we took the shuttle bus back to the free parking lot.

Despite being during the Lantern Festival period, since it was a weekday and very cold, the free parking lot was empty. The paid parking lot wasn’t full either, so we could have used it if we’d wanted to, but oh well.

Final Thoughts

Nagasaki has many attractions, but especially if you’re visiting as a couple or married couple, you can’t miss this world-class beautiful night view. While bus schedules vary by season, it’s nice that you can basically enjoy it year-round. Please come and see it!

You can eat fresh sashimi and live squid sashimi at ordinary izakayas around here.

One place that supports Fukuoka’s dining establishments, called “Hakata’s Kitchen,” is Yanagibashi Rengou Market.

It’s located very close to Tenjin, Fukuoka’s premier entertainment district, with various fresh ingredients lined up daily.

This time, I visited Yanagibashi Shokudo, a dining establishment inside this market!

Walking Through “Hakata’s Kitchen” – Yanagibashi Rengou Market

The exterior of Yanagibashi Rengou Market. An appearance that evokes a sense of history.

It’s within walking distance from Tenjin.

Going inside, it really feels like a traditional old-fashioned market. Fresh fish and vegetables are lined up.

Since it’s more geared toward businesses, foot traffic isn’t that heavy. Still, thanks to the lively calls, it’s a street where you can feel the energy.

Walking further along…

Hidden Gem “Yanagibashi Shokudo” in the Back of a Fresh Fish Shop

Found it! This must be Yanagibashi Shokudo… right? There’s a noren curtain saying “Dining Place,” so it must be correct.

The menu is posted on the first-floor wall, where you order and pay in advance. This time, I chose the most popular “Kaisen-don” (seafood bowl). 650 yen is cheap!
*Prices from 2012

Going up the stairs, waiting at the second-floor seating. (I forgot to take a photo when going up, so this is from above)

When I went up to the second floor, people who seemed like locals were waiting for their orders.

Going left, there are more table seats in the back. An elderly couple who also look like locals are eating here.

On the wall to the side, bold text reads “We ship nationwide.”

I went around 11:30, but office workers and other customers kept increasing, and I ended up sharing a table. It seems lunchtime gets crowded with locals.

Fresh, Cheap, and Delicious – Truly a Market Seafood Bowl

While this was happening, the seafood bowl arrived! A bowl with chunks of white fish, miso soup with fish broth, and pickles.

When you think of seafood bowls, you imagine various fish beautifully arranged for over a thousand yen… but this one has white fish like sea bream and others piled on generously (and somewhat haphazardly?).

Being in a market, freshness is guaranteed. 650 yen for this is definitely cheap…!
*Prices from 2012

The fish is already lightly marinated in sauce, but you can also add this soy sauce if you like. I dissolved wasabi in sashimi soy sauce and poured it on.

Can you see it? This slightly translucent look of the sashimi. There’s no way this wouldn’t be delicious.

As I continued eating, I found salmon buried underneath. This one has nicely fatty texture. (ﾟдﾟ) Delicious!!

When I finished eating and tried to leave, the storefront was bustling with housewives. There’s something nice about community-based shops.

Final Thoughts

Both the seafood bowl and miso soup were delicious, but in addition to that, the market atmosphere really added great flavor.

Since it’s close to Tenjin, why not stop by for a stroll sometime?

I’ve been to Ganso Nagahama-ya before, so this time I decided to visit Fukiya, an okonomiyaki restaurant.

When it comes to okonomiyaki, I only knew “Hiroshima-style” and “Kansai-style,” but what exactly is Fukiya’s okonomiyaki, which is neither of those?

Fukiya – Hakata’s Distinctive Okonomiyaki Establishment

Fukiya apparently has multiple locations throughout Fukuoka Prefecture, but this time I visited the Akasaka branch.
※Note: Fukiya’s Akasaka location has closed as of 2024.

Following the directions on my iPhone map, I arrived at… wait, here?
It’s quite… a narrow market, isn’t it? (My apologies to those involved.)

I ventured down the narrow alley.
This area is relatively urban, close to Tenjin, Fukuoka’s most vibrant district, yet I never knew such a place existed here.

Continuing further, I spotted a lantern reading “Okonomiyaki.”

I’d arrived!

Pushing through the aged noren curtain, I entered.

A quaint, old-fashioned establishment with good atmosphere.

The shop owner was vigorously cooking on the griddle.

The menu shows its age. Prices are very reasonable!

As of 2024, the Akasaka branch featured in this article has closed, though apparently eight other locations remain operating in Fukuoka City.

Thick, Crispy, and Generous – Hakata’s Distinctive “Hakata Okonomiyaki”

Before long, my ordered meat okonomiyaki (¥500) arrived!

The surface is coated with sauce and burned until crispy and parched.

On the table are thick mayonnaise and sauce.

I drizzled on the thick mayonnaise, rarely seen at other okonomiyaki restaurants.

The sauce is even thicker and more viscous than the mayo.

The okonomiyaki itself contains no soba noodles, but compared to Kansai-style, it’s distinctly thick.
The surface is cooked until it becomes crispy and parched. It’s packed with volume and quite delicious!

To be honest, I prefer Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, but this is worthwhile in its own way.

Not absolutely amazing, but the kind of flavor you occasionally crave.

Final Thoughts

I had no association of okonomiyaki with Fukuoka, yet here was this restaurant all along.

I’d definitely like to visit again occasionally!

Recently, a friend from Tokyo came to visit me in Fukuoka, so I welcomed them with motsunabe!

While Fukuoka has numerous motsunabe restaurants, I was surprised by the luxurious interior and atmosphere of the famous establishment Yamanaka Akasaka branch, which resembles a high-end hotel.

Of course, the signature miso motsunabe and other dishes are excellent!

Yamanaka Akasaka – Decorated Like an Upscale International Hotel

Located about 3 minutes on foot from Akasaka subway station, it’s on the 2nd floor of a building with a supermarket called “Sunny” on the ground floor.

The entrance is like this.

Climbing the stairs reveals… a Western-style landing that makes you doubt this is really a motsunabe restaurant.

The entranceway.

The waiting area at the entrance.

How sophisticated…

Even the counter.
By any measure, this looks more like a luxury overseas hotel than a motsunabe restaurant.

But when shown to the back, it’s definitely a motsunabe restaurant.

The dining space is like this. Private rooms are also available.

Miso-Flavored Motsunabe is Especially Recommended! Other Dishes Like Spicy Cod Roe Are Also Delicious

The menu features motsunabe (miso, soy sauce, and shabu-shabu style), as well as spicy mentaiko (cod roe).

The selection of alcoholic beverages is also extensive.

First, we toast and enjoy edamame.

Vinegared offal, a standard appetizer in Fukuoka. Delicious.

Serving individual spicy cod roe is quite rare. Genuinely delicious.

And here comes the main event—miso motsunabe!!

This is truly delicious. I’m basically a “motsunabe should be soy sauce” person, but this miso motsunabe genuinely awakened me to its charms.

Of course, we finish with chanpon noodles.

And then…

Motsunabe Round 2—soy sauce flavored motsunabe!

This is also undoubtedly delicious.

We finish this one with double chanpon noodles.

Simply delicious!

After the hot pot, we relax while sipping drinks.

My friend strikes a pose reminiscent of something seen before.

On the way to the restroom is this space. What is this…so stylish…

By now, it’s impossible to tell what kind of business this is.
Incidentally, the restroom was also impeccably clean, befitting a luxury hotel.

Thank you for the wonderful meal!

Final Thoughts

True to Fukuoka’s status as the sacred home of motsunabe, there’s such variety in atmosphere and flavor that you never tire. And rarely do you encounter a disappointing meal.

This is an undeniably excellent establishment, so definitely visit when you come to Fukuoka!

Iojima, one of these three islands, is also home to the secret hot spring I previously reported on, Higashi Onsen.

Higashi Onsen on Iojima Island - Ultimate Hidden Hot Spring Experience in Kagoshima

Discover Higashi Onsen, a spectacular natural hot spring on Iojima Island in Mishima Village, Kagoshima. Experience soaking in natural pools surrounded by cliffs and ocean with breathtaking sunset views - truly a hidden gem among Japan's hot springs.

moreaboutjapan.com

2025.08.17

When I visited, photos I’d taken won a photo contest prize—Daimyo Takenoko (bamboo shoots).

A luxury ingredient and specialty of Takeshima, one of Mishima Village’s islands, these low-bitterness shoots can even be eaten raw. They’re called a “miraculous bamboo shoot.”

I quickly prepared and tasted them, and remarkably, virtually no bitterness emerged. They’re wonderfully aromatic, rich, and delicious!

Freshness is crucial and the season is limited, making acquisition difficult. But as awareness grows, they may eventually be distributed nationwide. In any case, these are absolutely worth tasting!

Takeshima Island Covered in Bamboo – The Miracle Takenoko “Daimyo Takenoko”

Daimyo takenoko are harvested on Takeshima Island, covered in bamboo (Ryukyu bamboo) as the name suggests.
※This is a different island from the disputed “Takeshima” controlled by South Korea—this is part of Japanese territory.

The following is a photo of Takeshima taken when passing by ferry. The overwhelming green covering the entire island is bamboo. Completely covered.

Daimyo takenoko from Takeshima arrived at my home in Fukuoka!
The name reportedly comes from the fact that due to regional limitations and difficult distribution, only feudal lords (daimyo) could enjoy this luxury ingredient.

True to its name, Takeshima Island is completely covered in bamboo. The island’s specialty is this bamboo—specifically Ryukyu bamboo, which grows only in Okinawa and Kagoshima. These takenoko shoots have virtually no bitterness and are edible raw, making them exceptionally delicious. However, due to regional limitations and difficult distribution, historically only feudal lords could enjoy them. For this reason they’re also called “Daimyo Takenoko,” and today they remain a premium ingredient in high demand.
Daimyo Takenoko Harvesting | Island Geopark Mishima Village, Kagoshima Prefecture

Impressive specimens indeed.

“Season-limited to May-June each year,” “low in bitterness,” and “edible raw”—truly miraculous takenoko.

To be honest, I’d never prepared takenoko from this raw state before, but fortunately preparation instructions were included. Problem solved.

Quick Boil and Taste – Minimal Bitterness, Wonderful Aroma!

First, I alternately removed the takenoko skin until reaching white-to-yellow coloring.
Initially I thought it tedious, but the smooth peeling was oddly satisfying—I almost regretted finishing the last one!

The inedible tip and root sections are trimmed away.

When fresh, they can be eaten raw, but since mine arrived slightly later, I decided to boil them as a precaution, following the included recipe.

Typically rice bran and chili peppers are added, with boiling times of 30 minutes to an hour. However, for daimyo takenoko with minimal bitterness, just 5 minutes in salted water suffices.
Following these instructions exactly.

After boiling and cooling—as you can see, virtually no bitterness emerged! I didn’t skim any scum either.

Cut in half and drain the internal moisture.

Now to try eating it as-is.

The presentation wasn’t quite traditional—a more formal Japanese plate and garnish might have been better.

Tasting it, I thought “Is this really takenoko?” The absence of harshness and wonderful aroma that fills the mouth is remarkable.
It’s delicious plain, and equally excellent with soy sauce or salt.

Takenoko usually features in simmered dishes, but eaten solo like this, it’s truly exceptional.
Or perhaps this is so good specifically because it’s daimyo takenoko and not ordinary shoots.

The remainder goes into a zip-lock bag—refrigerate for short-term storage, freeze for longer.

Equally Delicious in Prepared Dishes

Following the included recipes, I tried sautéing in butter,

Mixing with egg,

And adding to simmered dishes.

Though takenoko typically plays a supporting role, these specimens assert themselves boldly, enhancing every dish they appear in.

Final Thoughts

Currently available only during limited seasons through limited distribution channels as a premium product, but depending on future developments, they may become more widely available.

For more details, check out these pages!

鹿児島県三島村産の大名筍 | 公式サイトTOPページ

三島村で収穫できる大名筍は筍の王様とも呼ばれており、濃厚な味と歯ごたえが特徴です。大きな特徴は、「アク抜きの必要がない」ことです。えぐみが少なく爽やかでシャキシャキの食感はまさに絶品で、旬を感じる高級食材として、さまざまな飲食店で重宝されて...

takenoko.link

鹿児島県三島村｜GO!MISHIMA

鹿児島県の南方に浮かぶ3つの離島、三島村の情報サイト。三島村は人口約350人の小さな村で、日本ジオパークや県立自然公園に認定されている魅力あふれる島々です。島の日常をありのままお伝えします。

mishima.link

As I mentioned at the start, various beloved restaurants exist in different areas.

Among these, particularly in southern Fukuoka, there’s an establishment that truly deserves the designation “soul food”: Bikkuri Tei.

The perfectly balanced garlic-infused teppan yakiniku paired with their secret spicy miso is dangerously addictive. Hearing “grilled meat with garlic flavor and spicy miso” might make you think you understand what to expect—but the actual addictiveness is 100 times more intense than you’d imagine. Former AKB member Mariko Shinoda (from Itoshima, Fukuoka) is reportedly a devoted regular.

お昼ご飯♪オススメな店ににゃろ連れてきた( *｀ω´)あーーーめっちゃうまー( *｀ω´) pic.twitter.com/izGuGsFkW4

— 篠田麻里子 (@mariko_dayo) June 20, 2013

福岡のびっくり亭を名古屋れなひょん、大阪ミルキーに教えた（笑）
れなひょんは肉食べれないらしくキャベツ食べてたよ( *｀ω´)美味しかったーーびっくり亭3日目ですわたし(//∇//) pic.twitter.com/KZLpt8T5hK

— 篠田麻里子 (@mariko_dayo) June 22, 2013

🍴🍚#びっくり亭 #博多グルメ

shinodamarikoさん(@shinodamariko3)がシェアした投稿 – December 22, 2013 at 6:59pm PST

With ramen, mizutaki (chicken hot pot), motsunabe, sesame-marinated mackerel, udon, and yakitori—visitors to Fukuoka face countless delicious choices. For those wanting hearty fare, Bikkuri Tei is your destination!

First Visit: Bikkuri Tei Takamiya Branch

Though I’d heard Bikkuri Tei was Fukuoka soul food, I hadn’t managed to visit until now.

I decided to try the Takamiya branch, the closest to my home in central Fukuoka.

About 3 minutes on foot from Nishi-Tetsutakamiya Station. The restaurant occupies a corner of “Aji no Michikusagori Street,” retaining Showa-era charm.

Yes, this is it!

Classic noren curtain, lantern, and signage. This is the place!

The main menu is straightforward: grilled meat single (¥800), 1.5 servings (¥1,150), two servings (¥1,600), and that’s it. Refreshingly simple. Beyond that, just rice and kimchi.

On the table sits Bikkuri Tei’s special extra-hot miso. Though labeled “extra-hot,” those who enjoy spicy food won’t find it overly intense. (Those sensitive to heat should be cautious.)

The interior features counter and tatami seating. Arriving at an off-hour meant it was relatively quiet, but customers soon streamed in, filling the place.

Thinking beer essential with teppan yakiniku, I ordered some and snapped photos, but…

The single serving of grilled meat arrives instantly! It sizzles temptingly.
The special garlic sauce aroma further stimulates appetite—I’m reaching my limit of restraint.

But before eating—don’t forget to insert the wooden wedge underneath one side of the plate, tilting the griddle. The reason? I’ll explain later, or rather, I wasn’t entirely sure at this point myself.

Since grilled meat is served alone, those wanting substantial rice should definitely order it separately! First rice orders come with miso soup!

Ohhhh, let’s eat!
The perfectly balanced garlic and salt sauce is extraordinary! It disappears with the rice!

As is, it’s already excellent, but when combined with the special spicy miso…

It becomes an unreasonably addictive creation. Should be regulated by law.

After eating for a while, I realized my mistake… I was eating it wrong!
You’re supposed to tilt the plate to create a pool of fat and sauce, then dissolve the spicy miso into it for eating. I’d tilted the plate for nothing…

As I ate, the restaurant filled progressively. Truly a popular spot. Notably, many young people.

Finished with flavorful miso soup. Ahh, delicious!

Where It All Began: The Original Bikkuri Tei Honke in Minami Fukuoka

I initially planned to complete my article with just the Takamiya branch report, but a Fukuoka friend insisted, “If you’re writing about it, you absolutely have to visit the original!” So I made an impromptu visit.

Just 1 minute on foot from JR Minami-Fukuoka Station, about 10 minutes from Nishi-Tetsuzassho-kuma Station.

A yakiniku hall, founded in 1963. Excellent.

The menu is nearly identical to the Takamiya branch. Interestingly, they even serve ramen… must try. The original thoughtfully includes “delicious serving method” instructions.
Still, with single at ¥800 and double at ¥1,600, why is 1.5 servings ¥1,150 rather than ¥1,200?

The special spicy miso naturally sits on the table.

While the Takamiya branch has character, the original shows distinctly aged patina.

Though it was lunch and I had work afterward, visiting Bikkuri Tei makes beer resistance impossible! My apologies!

The griddle grilled meat arrives, perpetuating its addictive sizzle and aroma.

Sharing this overwhelming visual with everyone.

Tilt properly with the wedge.

Frantically ordering rice, forgetting it’s separate.

First, eat it plain. Ahh, exquisite! Delicious! So good!

And this time, I’ll get it right. The fat and sauce-infused liquid accumulated from tilting. Into it…

Add the spicy miso from the table…

Mix to create the special sauce…

Coat and eat! Coat and eat! Perfect!

Final Thoughts

While Fukuoka offers countless delicacies, in terms of pure addictiveness, this might be my personal favorite… I’m that impressed.

The downside is its location away from Fukuoka’s center, making regular visits somewhat inconvenient. In my personal ranking of restaurants I’d like to see in Tenjin or Hakata Station areas, it ties for first with [Sukesanudon]—a Kita-Kyushu udon chain.

This insider Fukuoka specialty absolutely deserves a taste!

▼Takamiya Branch Information

▼Original Location Information

When thinking of Miyazaki specialties, chicken dishes like charcoal-grilled chicken and chicken nanban immediately come to mind.

After researching, I discovered that Ogura Honten, the birthplace of tartar sauce chicken nanban, is located in Miyazaki City, where I planned to stop around evening.
(The original version without tartar sauce is apparently a shop called “Naokachan.” Chicken Nanban – Wikipedia)

I eat chicken nanban frequently in Fukuoka and love it dearly. This is the birthplace—I absolutely had to visit!

From JR Miyazaki Station, it’s about a 15-minute walk.
This must be it?

I apparently approached from the back—this is the proper front of the shop.
Large black characters reading “Chicken Nanban” on a red background.
Yet despite this bold signage, the shop has the atmosphere of a small neighborhood Western-style restaurant.

Menu posted outside.
(Naturally, it’s chicken nanban.)

Inside, it’s just as expected—a neighborhood Western-style restaurant.

Copper frying pans, red-and-white noren curtains, small paintings, and potted plants—everything contributes to the atmosphere.

Of course, I ordered chicken nanban with rice (¥980)!

After a short wait, a beautiful plated chicken nanban with rice arrived.
This looks absolutely delicious!

The tartar sauce I usually eat has acidity to it (mayo-based?), but Ogura’s sauce tastes like a sweet cream sauce with vegetables.

Separately, it’s topped with sweet vinegar, so when combined with the tender chicken, it creates the perfect balance.

It has the feel of a neighborhood favorite where locals casually drop in—simple yet delicious.

Since it’s easily accessible from the station and entertainment districts, if you visit Miyazaki City, definitely experience authentic local chicken nanban!

The library gained considerable attention, both positive and negative, when the city partnered with CCC (Culture Convenience Club, the company operating TSUTAYA bookstores), but I’d never visited.

Further research revealed that near Takeo City Library stands Takeo’s Great Camphor Tree, an ancient tree over 3,000 years old. Being able to enjoy both in one trip sounded promising…

While photography inside Takeo City Library was restricted, the interior design is stylish, making it a library and bookstore worth visiting regularly. With Starbucks on-site, it also seems excellent as a cafe or study space.

And Takeo’s Great Camphor Tree—though I initially thought “it’s just a big tree, right?”—exceeded expectations with its majesty and splendor. The path leading to it is equally atmospheric.

Near Takeo City Library are Takeo Onsen and Ureshino Onsen hot springs. It’s also conveniently located on the route from Fukuoka to Nagasaki.
I highly recommend this area as a stopover when traveling in the region!

Takeo City Library – A Bookstore and Starbucks Integrated Library

I arrived at Takeo City Library. About 1 hour 20 minutes by car from Fukuoka City, about 1 hour from Nagasaki City. About 15 minutes on foot from Takeo Onsen Station.

With 90 parking spaces, you should be able to park easily outside of weekends and holidays. During busy times, nearby public facility parking is also available.

武雄市図書館

武雄市図書館では、従来の図書貸出はもちろんのこと、蔦屋書店の併設により、本や物販商品の購入が可能です。また、館内にはスターバックス コーヒーも併設され、コーヒーを飲みながら本を読むことができます。

takeo.city-library.jp

(https://takeo.city-library.jp/)

Beautiful flowers bloom around the parking area.

The integrated Starbucks has terrace seating. It seems pleasant in spring and autumn.

Interior space. With a design uncommon in Japanese libraries, it’s very open and filled with natural sunlight, creating a bright atmosphere. The bookstore and Starbucks occupy the right-front space on the first floor, while extensive library collections line the walls and the second floor.

While I wanted to photograph around the interesting design, photography is only permitted in two locations: immediately left of the 1F entrance and at the end of the 2F hallway.
I understand—many people want to quietly read books.

This is the view from the other photography spot. Numerous books line the shelves, including some at heights that seem unreachable.

The interior has many tables, desks, and seating areas scattered throughout, maintaining an appropriately quiet atmosphere. It looks like an excellent environment for reading and studying. I’d frequent it if it were nearby.

The integrated Takeo City Children’s Library also has a nice atmosphere.

There’s a play area for small children beside the entrance, and a cafe on the 2F where parents can relax. On this weekday with few visitors, staff were entertaining a young child.

※Information current at time of article publication. Please verify on official website.

The Path to Takeo’s Great Camphor Tree and the Tree Itself Are Wonderfully Exceptional

Takeo Shrine, about 5 minutes on foot from Takeo City Library.

Beyond the shrine lies Momiji-dori (Maple Avenue), leading to Takeo’s Great Camphor Tree, over 3,000 years old.
It has been alive since the Jomon period. Amazing.

Passing through a torii gate inscribed “Sacred Tree,” I headed toward the great camphor.

Walking through a lush green tunnel of beautiful maples,

Past towering bamboo thickets,

I reached Takeo’s Great Camphor Tree.
As expected, it’s remarkably majestic. Despite over 3,000 years of life, it’s vibrant with abundant foliage and vitality.

The gnarled bark of the trunk conveys the passage of long ages—impressive.
I involuntarily gasped “Oh…!” at its overwhelming presence. I was genuinely awed.

Before arriving, I casually thought I’d stop by if convenient. But including the path leading to it, this proved a destination worth visiting specifically. I’m glad I came.

I’m not fond of vague terms like “power spot,” but if such places exist, surely this is one.

※Information current at time of article publication. Please verify on official website.

Final Thoughts

Behind modern architecture stands a great camphor tree conveying accumulated history and natural power.
This contrast is appealing, isn’t it?

When nearby, I recommend visiting not just Takeo City Library, but also Takeo’s Great Camphor Tree!

I’ve lived in Fukuoka for 13 years total, but only recently visited for the first time.
That’s because, unlike famous ramen shops or motsu nabe restaurants, it’s more of a “local gem that locals know” than a universally recognized spot (in my personal impression).

On a sizzling hot iron plate sits pasta, topped with thin-sliced sautéed beef.
This is the Beef Butter Yaki—drizzled with a special sauce loaded with aromatic vegetables.

When the special sauce—loaded with aromatic vegetables and crafted in a Japanese-style barbecue style—is poured over the beef sauté on a piping hot iron plate, it releases a delicious sizzle! The aroma rises up with the steam, fragrant and mouth-watering.
Gourmet Fugetsu | Fugetsu Foods Co., Ltd.

The tangy seasoning is exquisite—the savory depth lingers while the finish remains clean. It’s the perfect rice topper.

The pasta in contact with the hot iron plate gradually develops a crispy, caramelized crust. This crispy layer provides texture and an aromatic, toasted flavor that’s both enjoyable and delicious.

Whether you’re a hearty eater or a Fukuoka food connoisseur who’s tried everything the local food scene has to offer, this is a dish you absolutely must try!

Gourmet Fugetsu in Tenjin Core: Savor the Signature Beef Butter Yaki

Gourmet Fugetsu is located on B1F of “Tenjin Core,” situated along Watanabe-dori, the main street of Tenjin.
Incidentally, there’s apparently another location at the Hirokawa Service Area in Yame, Fukuoka Prefecture.

Since the building is filled with women’s fashion, cosmetics, and accessory shops, male visitors might find it a bit awkward to walk through, but don’t worry—just head downstairs.

There it is, tucked a bit further back—Teppanyaki Gourmet Fugetsu, identifiable by its cow-like logo.
It was around 3pm on a weekday when I visited, so the place wasn’t full, but seeing chairs lined up suggests this place gets queues during lunch or on weekends.

The signature dish is definitely the Beef Butter Yaki. There are also combo versions with hamburger and versions topped with a poached egg, apparently.
Looking at the menu makes me want to eat everything!

The interior is narrow and elongated with counter seating and impressive sofa tables. Antique-looking urns and statues are displayed around the shop, giving it a sense of history.

The combo and poached egg versions are tempting, but for a first visit, the classic Beef Butter Yaki is the way to go. ¥1,080 including tax.

There’s also butter-grilled salad, a half-portion for women that comes with corn soup and salad, plus hamburger and steak options.

Beef Butter Yaki with Tangy Special Sauce – Absolutely Delicious

When your order arrives, the special Beef Butter Yaki sauce and soup come out first. Don’t accidentally drink the sauce!
The soup is consommé-like but with a distinctive depth I can’t quite place. Regardless, it’s delicious.

While sipping soup, you can watch the chef cooking at the counter and anticipate the Beef Butter Yaki.

When the Beef Butter Yaki arrives, you’re given what looks like an apron. “The sauce splatters, so please use this,” you’re told.
(The photo is taken after the sauce has been poured.)

When you say yes to “Shall I pour the sauce?”, the special sauce is poured over the hot iron plate, pasta, and beef. What an appetite-awakening sound!

Wow! Looks amazing!

The rice originally came in a smaller portion, but I couldn’t resist asking for extra. With such beef staring me in the face… well, you understand.
Come to think of it, since pasta is also carbohydrate, the smaller rice portion probably accounts for that, compared to a standard Western set meal. I gave in to temptation, but no regrets!

The tender thin-sliced beef, combined with the soy-based special sauce loaded with grated aromatic vegetables, is tangy and fruity.
While refreshing, the flavor is robust, and you’ll find yourself piling rice and pasta eagerly. This is delicious!

And another joy: the pasta’s crispy “scorched crust” baked on the iron plate.

The contrast between the charred, crispy sections and the softer sections, plus the toasted aroma, is enjoyable. Despite the substantial portion, it never gets boring.

Supplementary Information About Gourmet Fugetsu

Tenjin Core Closed in March 2020 – Where Did Gourmet Fugetsu Move?

As of 2018, Fukuoka’s Tenjin district was undergoing a major redevelopment project called the “Tenjin Big Bang” to rebuild buildings for completion by 2024.

As part of this, Tenjin Core—where Gourmet Fugetsu was located—closed in March 2020. It remains to be seen whether a new branch opened elsewhere in Tenjin, if they waited for the new building, or if they withdrew altogether.

Fugetsu Foods – A Company Familiar to Fukuoka Residents

Fugetsu Foods, which operates Gourmet Fugetsu, is the company behind a famous souvenir that Fukuoka residents know from TV commercials.

♪Snow rabbit~ Snow rabbit~ Why are your eyes so red~ Mother cried dreaming~ ♪

If you can sing along, you know: Snow Rabbit(雪うさぎ), a Hakata specialty cake.

The charming Hakata specialty “Snow Rabbit” with red eyes.
Fluffy marshmallow like melting snow wraps white bean paste inside. A gentle, sweet fragrance spreads.
Product Introduction | Fugetsu Foods Co., Ltd.

They apparently started with a coffeehouse, expanded to restaurants, then ventured into the confectionery business.

I didn’t know they had such history!

Fugetsu at Fukuoka Airport Has Amazing Curry – And Beef Butter Yaki Too

Fugetsu also operates a steakhouse at Fukuoka Airport on the 3F (same floor as the Ramen Runway).

It’s called “Steakhouse Gourmet Fugetsu The Origin“—quite a sophisticated name, like a Gundam title!

I’ve been once, and their curry was absolutely incredible.

福岡空港のステーキ屋のカレーが高いけどめっちゃうまくて驚いた

— Shotaro Ushijima (@ushigyu) October 2, 2017

I believe it was weekday lunch-exclusive at the time, but if you get the chance, definitely try it.

Additionally, on the 2F food court, there’s a shop called “Tenjin B.B.Quisine” that also serves the Beef Butter Yaki introduced here.

Give it a try too!

空港｜風月フーズ株式会社

空港事業についてご紹介いたします。

fugetsu.co.jp

(https://www.fugetsu.co.jp/business/airport/)

Final Thoughts

I’ve been to quite a few Fukuoka restaurants, but I never knew this place existed!
Fukuoka’s food scene still has depths to explore.

Located conveniently in Tenjin and at Fukuoka Airport, if you haven’t experienced it, you absolutely should!

This time, I’d like to introduce you to Mutsugoro, one of the most renowned restaurants in downtown Kumamoto City.


This establishment serves not only horse sashimi but also an extensive lineup of horse meat dishes, along with seafood, karashi renkon (spicy lotus root), hitomoji guruguru, and other Kumamoto local cuisine and sake.

If you’re thinking “I want to eat something delicious in Kumamoto,” you can’t go wrong by choosing this place!

Mutsugoro: A Renowned Horse Meat Restaurant Near Kumamoto Castle

Mutsugoro is located in Hanabatacho, in the heart of Kumamoto City, close to Kumamoto Castle and City Hall.

This was April 30th, when traces of the earthquake were still quite visible in Kumamoto City. The stairs were unusable, so we could only use the elevator.
Nearly three months have passed since then, so it should be fully restored by now.

Basement level 1, here it is!

I entered shortly after 5 PM, just after opening time, but customers were already starting to arrive.

At the front, there are many photos and Kumamon glasses. Very Kumamoto indeed.

With daily fresh fish specials, various horse meat dishes, and local cuisine, it’s hard to choose. The rice they use is, of course, Kumamoto-grown “Mori no Kumasan.” What an adorable brand name.

While basashi (horse sashimi) and koune (horse neck meat) can occasionally be found in other prefectures, here you’ll find unusual items like “tongue sashimi” and “heart sashimi,” as well as dishes you wouldn’t normally make with horse meat, such as “braised offal” and “bite-sized cutlets.”

Look up and there’s another horse meat menu list! Everything sounds intriguing… “horse brain,” “grilled horse root”…

That said, I can’t eat too much by myself, so for this first visit, I ordered the classic horse sashimi.

Kumamoto’s Horse Meat is Truly Delicious! Local Dishes That Pair Perfectly With Sake

I enjoyed the appetizer while waiting.

I started with beer. The mug was nicely chilled. Cheers!

The horse sashimi arrived right away! Wait, the basashi I’ve seen at other restaurants looks much redder…
When I asked the staff, they said, “We use carefully selected delicious cuts of horse meat.” I see.

I dipped it in soy sauce mixed with ginger and garlic, and took a bite.
Wow, the rich fat gives it such depth, and the more you chew, the more umami flavors flood out!

If regular restaurant basashi is like lean tuna, this is like eating medium or fatty tuna.
Of course, there are cuts available for those who prefer less fat. With such an extensive menu, there’s something for everyone.


This is a dish with the unusual name “hitomoji guruguru,” a local Kumamoto specialty made by rolling up the region’s famous green onions and serving them with vinegar miso sauce.
The crispy textured onions are refreshing with the vinegar miso. So delicious.

At this point, I couldn’t resist moving on to sake. Naturally, I chose from Kumamoto’s local selection.

Junmai Ginjo “Taito” – I choose you!

During this time, customers kept arriving steadily, and within about 30 minutes, the restaurant was nearly full.
If you want to be sure to get in, making a reservation seems advisable.

To finish, I had bajiru (horse meat soup). Simply put, it’s the horse meat version of pork miso soup, and it’s incredibly delicious!
The tender, fall-apart horse meat inside, the flavorful soup rich with dashi and miso. Rich yet gentle, a taste I could eat every day.

Final Thoughts

Since I came alone and had other restaurants I wanted to visit, I couldn’t eat much, but it was a wonderful establishment in terms of both food and service.
Next time, I want to come with a large group and try all the different horse meat dishes! The fish dishes look intriguing too.

This is an absolute must-visit restaurant when you come to Kumamoto!

To be honest, when it comes to pottery, there’s an image that it mainly targets middle-aged and older customers.
But that’s not actually the case.
There are many products and shops that appeal to younger demographics too, including ceramics incorporating Nordic design, stylish shops, and cafes.

“Gallery Arita,” which I happened to discover while googling for lunch options, is one such establishment.
With Arita-yaki coffee cups covering an entire wall, a modern and stylish interior, a cafe restaurant serving local ingredients in Arita-yaki dishes, and a rich variety of souvenirs.
Even people who think “Pottery? I don’t really get it” will surely get excited when they visit—it’s a shop that people of all ages can enjoy and I highly recommend!

“Gallery Arita” – A Stylish Cafe Restaurant and Shop Combined

Gallery Arita is located about a 10-minute walk from Arita Station, along National Route 35. It’s a bit over an hour by car from Nagasaki City and about an hour and a half from Fukuoka.
A large pottery jar or vase serves as the landmark.

Of course, there’s parking available.
Wait, what’s that car with the innovative design parked in front of the shop…?

Wow, so cool! A Mini Cooper incorporating plenty of Japanese aesthetic elements.

Decorated with pottery patterns, it’s probably custom-made. How interesting.

Both outside the shop and the interior visible through the windows are filled with pottery.

Upon entering, the cafe restaurant is on the left and the shop on the right. The display methods are elaborate and enjoyable.

The shop stocks plenty of pottery from affordable pieces to luxury items.

Since lunch was our purpose that day, we entered the cafe restaurant.

Enjoying Lunch Surrounded by Arita-yaki Cups

This Japanese-modern space surrounded by Arita-yaki coffee cups covering the entire wall is absolutely fantastic.

The staff waiting area looks like a bar counter.
They don’t seem to do this now, but it would be great if they served beer and sake in Arita-yaki vessels at night. Though it might be difficult since many people come by car?

Even the water is served in nice pottery. Children get cute cups (back right).

They offer a rich menu of lunch items, cakes, drinks, and desserts.

I ordered the “Imari Beef Curry (1,200 yen).” Each dish is served in elaborate pottery, which is fantastic! The taste was, well, normally delicious curry. (laughs)

This is what my brother ordered: “Arita-yaki Five Course Set (1,300 yen, with dessert and drink).” It’s a menu featuring Arita’s brand chicken, Aritadori, prepared in five different cooking methods.
The dishes are wonderful too.

It was apparently very delicious. My niece was munching on the fried chicken.

Choose Your Favorite from the Wall of Coffee Cups

When you order hot coffee or tea as your drink, you’re given a token like this. You place this token in your favorite coffee cup and bring it to the counter, and they’ll serve your drink in that vessel.

You can choose from all these cups covering the entire wall? Really? That’s way too difficult to decide…

I focused on the black section next to the counter that looked somewhat premium. I chose from here.

How is it? Stylish yet not too flashy, with a nice subdued elegance. I liked it.

My sister-in-law and niece chose a fresh, summery sunflower pattern. This is nice too.
My 5-year-old niece proudly said, “I chose this one!” What kid gets excited about pottery at age 5?

My brother chose this cup with a black background and, for some reason, golden Sakamoto Ryoma printed on it. His aesthetic sense is quite unique.

Afterword

“Gallery Arita” is recommended not only for pottery enthusiasts but also for people who just want to visit a stylish cafe or restaurant.
Searching for your favorite from the hundreds of coffee cups covering the entire wall is an experience that people from children to adults can enjoy!

Aoshima Shrine: Island Sanctuary Amidst Tropical Flora

Aoshima Shrine sits on an island accessed by a bridge. The entire island is designated a Special Natural Monument for its tropical plant growth.
Location: southern Miyazaki City along the coast.

Side paths lined with ema plaques…

…and a small auxiliary shrine in the back.

Near the entrance: the “Devil’s Washboard,” natural rock grooves resembling washboards.

Sun Messe Nichinan: Official Moai from Easter Island

Forty minutes south along the coast lies Sun Messe Nichinan, a theme park in Nichinan City.

Strong winds and occasional rain didn’t deter visitors.

The park’s highlight: these moai statues, the only official replicas outside Easter Island.

Moai-themed souvenirs abound.

Udo Shrine: The Cave-Embedded Temple

Nearby is Udo Shrine, built into seaside cliffs.

After parking, descend the stairs to the grotto shrine—a deeply spiritual setting.

The “Petting Rabbit” statue, polished smooth by countless hands.

The “Milk Rock,” said to have been left by the goddess Tamayori-hime as a talisman for child-rearing.

At the “Turtle Rock,” toss a “fortune ball” (¥100 for 5) into the turtle’s back—men use their left hand, women their right—to have your wish granted. I scored one!

Toi Misaki: Grazing Wild Toi Horses

Finally, at the southern tip of Miyazaki Prefecture sits Toi Misaki. Beyond the gate, wild Toi horses roam freely right beside the road!

Afterword

I hadn’t explored much of Miyazaki before, but its variety of fascinating sites is amazing. Next time, I’ll prioritize sunshine for my drive!

2023 update: The flagship main branch sits just across the crosswalk from Hakata Station. According to MenMusubi, a major 2018 renovation further refined its flavor. As a Fukuoka ramen fanatic, I had to see for myself!

Hakata Ikkōsha Main Branch: Refined Frothy Tonkotsu Near Hakata Station

The main branch is a five-minute walk from Hakata Station’s east exit, across a single crosswalk. Its unassuming façade can be easy to miss.

On a weekday afternoon there was no queue—yet the water cooler hinted at busier lunch rushes.

Inside, a compact space offers a ten-seat L-shaped counter and a few tables. Purchase tickets at the multilingual vending machine, which supports simplified and traditional Chinese, Korean, and English.

Each seat features a built-in water tap in conveyor-sushi style—a unique touch.

Condiments include ramen tare, gyoza sauce, pepper, sesame, garlic, spicy takana greens, and uncolored ginger. Hair ties are provided for long-haired diners.

While waiting, I sampled the takana—perfectly balanced salty-spicy greens ideal with both rice and ramen.

Staff led by a personable hostess provided warm, efficient service—proof of a great workplace atmosphere.

Evolved Frothy Tonkotsu: Smooth, Deep, and Refined

My frothy tonkotsu ramen arrived in a branded bowl. Aside from a larger chashu cut, it looked like classic Ikkōsha.

The rich foam, usually skimmed as scum, here signals an intense, deeper bone broth flavor—essential to Ikkōsha’s signature.

I added a char-mayo rice bowl and bite-size gyoza. Let’s dig in!

The broth retained Ikkōsha’s umami while removing sharper edges, resulting in a smoother, more universally appealing soup.

Noodles are uniquely flat and rectangular to better lift the soup—offering a fun, firm chew.

The chashu is a single thick slice, lightly seasoned to enhance without overshadowing the broth.

The bite-size gyoza surprised me—easily among the top ramen-house gyoza I’ve tasted, with well-seasoned filling begging for rice.

Char-mayo rice was tasty but predictable; the mentaiko rice might be the better pick.

Never skip the takana topping—it’s a perfect complement to both rice and noodles.

Afterword

A July 2021 revisit revealed that tweaking the soy tare elevated the broth’s depth even further—now a top Fukuoka recommendation. If you have time before or after using Hakata Station, walk over to this flagship for an exceptional ramen experience!

About 15 years ago when I was working in the Tokyo metropolitan area, I gathered with friends in Fukuoka and ate ramen at a Fubi branch that used to be in Kawabata. I remember being impressed and thinking, “Fukuoka’s tonkotsu ramen really is delicious!”
To confirm that memorable taste, I went to the main store located in Hara, Sawara Ward, Fukuoka City.

To be honest, I can’t tell if it tasted the same as what I had at the branch years ago (I can’t remember that well), but Fubi’s ramen was truly very delicious!
The crisp soy sauce tare combined with the rich umami of well-simmered tonkotsu broth creates a punchy yet well-balanced flavor.
And their yakimeshi (fried rice) is incredibly delicious too.
It’s no wonder this is a popular local establishment that has been around for so long.

While it’s a bit far from central Fukuoka areas like Tenjin and Hakata Station (about 15-20 minutes by car), it’s definitely worth the trip for this skilled restaurant!

Access and Basic Information for “Hakata Nagahama Ramen Fubi Hara Main Store”

“Hakata Nagahama Ramen Fubi Hara Main Store” is located along National Route 202 in Sawara Ward, Fukuoka City.

Since it’s quite far from subway lines, if using public transportation, taking a bus or taxi would be best. With Nishitetsu Bus, get off at “Hara” and it’s about a 4-minute walk.
Going by car is simple and easy to understand, but since it’s a popular restaurant, the parking lot might be full.

【Basic Information for Hakata Nagahama Ramen Fubi】

“Fubi’s Ramen” – Long Beloved by Locals

After getting off at Hara bus stop and walking about 4 minutes in the blazing summer heat, I arrived at “Hakata Nagahama Ramen Fubi.”
Officially, it’s “Fubi” (風靡) from the expression meaning “to take the world by storm.”

You can tell just by looking that this is a restaurant that has been beloved by locals for a long time.

The interior has counter seats, table seats, and tatami seating areas and is quite spacious, making it easy for anyone from solo diners to families with children to enter comfortably.
I came around 2 PM on a weekday, but customers kept coming in continuously – it was very busy.

Ramen is 670 yen, the popular yakimeshi set is 1,080 yen, and the half yakimeshi set is 940 yen. They even have ramen with ma-yu (black garlic oil), miso, and soy sauce ramen. (Prices as of August 2022)
I chose the half yakimeshi set.

On the table are spicy pickled mustard greens, ramen sauce, ground sesame, pickled ginger, garlic, etc.

Rich Ramen with Soy Sauce Tare and Pork Bone Umami Balanced at the Highest Level

Here’s Fubi’s ramen! The brown soup has half the surface covered with generous green onions and the other half with chashu, so you can’t see the noodles in this style.

First, I take a sip of the soup… Delicious!!!

The crisp-tasting soy sauce tare is thoroughly enveloped by pork extract, creating a strong overall umami flavor. It’s an incredibly delicious soup with high-level balance.
Apparently, it’s made by simmering three types of pork bones, pork skin, back fat, and belly fat.
While Nagahama ramen generally has a light image, Fubi’s ramen leans more toward the rich side.
【Reference】Comparison of Ganso Nagahamaya and Nagahamake ①②

The house-made noodles use only the center part of the wheat.
I ordered them “kata” (firm), and they had just the right balance with a slight crispy texture remaining in the center. They pair perfectly with the rich soup.

Large, crispy green onions that you can enjoy the texture of.
The textured green onions function perfectly as an accent to the incredibly delicious soup.

The thin-sliced chashu is well-infused with soy sauce tare flavor, so I recommend eating it bit by bit or combining it with yakimeshi or rice.

The spicy pickled mustard greens on the table are also something you don’t want to miss, but I don’t recommend soaking them too much in the soup as it will change the carefully balanced flavor.
It’s better to eat them without mixing too much or combine them with side dishes like yakimeshi.

Another Specialty on Par with Ramen – The Incredibly Delicious Yakimeshi

Fubi’s other specialty, yakimeshi (photo shows half yakimeshi).

The ingredients are simple – roast pork, egg, and green onions – but with wok techniques that all employees learn and unique seasoning, it’s incredibly delicious.
This also has a robust flavor, and when you put it in your mouth, you can clearly feel “this is so good~~~.”

Of course, I finished everything! It was extremely delicious.

Final Thoughts

Beyond the deliciousness of the ramen and fried rice, the atmosphere inside the restaurant is also wonderful.
The kitchen is lively, the staff are friendly, and customers who presumably live nearby keep coming in constantly.
It’s the kind of place that makes you think “it would be amazing to have a restaurant like this nearby.”

This is one of Fukuoka’s top recommended ramen shops. I definitely want you to go try it!
Next time, I’d like to try their champon and miso/soy sauce ramen too.

I never thought they would come to Fukuoka, so it was a pleasant surprise!
(Matsushige-san, who plays Goro, is from Fukuoka, so it might have been deeply moving for him)
I was watching with keen interest to see which restaurants would be featured.

One of the restaurants introduced there was “Miyake Udon.”
The old-fashioned storefront that made you feel like you’d traveled back in time, along with the atmosphere of the interior and the shop owner (played by Komatsu Masao, also from Fukuoka), had an indescribable charm.

It was personally a restaurant I’d been curious about since passing by it before, so I went there right away!

“Miyake Udon” – A charming restaurant that makes you feel like you’ve time-traveled

This is it, this is it. This atmosphere.
The Gofukumachi area where “Miyake Udon” is located still retains relatively Showa-era streetscapes, but this place stands out even among them.

The weathered signboard, noren curtain, and paper lanterns are so good. Excuse me for entering.

Since I went around 4:00 PM, there were no customers, and the owner was reading a newspaper at the back table where Goro sat. When I entered, he stood up and said, “We only have udon and soba.” Unfortunately, the inari sushi was sold out during lunch.
From the also-weathered menu, I ordered udon with maruten (fish cake) and egg.

The atmospheric interior.

The mysterious painting that was also shown in the broadcast is still there.

There are several autographs too. The newest one is, of course, from Matsushige Yutaka.

There was also a poster displayed.

Simple Hakata udon. But that’s what makes it good

It came out in less than 5 minutes. Udon!
(BGM plays in my head)

The noodles are extremely thick. Being chewy with no firmness is the Hakata way.
It’s a comforting, simple taste that you never get tired of no matter when you eat it. Deeply delicious.

Green onions are placed on the table and you can add as much as you want, so…

Naturally, this happens. Udon with plenty of green onions is the best.

A space with only the shop owner and me.
Only the sound of slurping noodles echoes.
Somehow, it’s nice.

Thank you for the meal, atmosphere and all.

Afterword

While the TV version of “Solitary Gourmet” often features trendy restaurants, the manga version tends to feature more of these charming, atmospheric places.
In that sense, this was truly a long-established udon shop where you could experience the authentic “Solitary Gourmet” feeling.
Please visit once by all means.

Although more udon shops in Fukuoka now offer firmer noodles, one of the few that still serve the classic Hakata style is “Inaba Udon.” With four locations in Fukuoka City, this locally beloved chain’s soft, pillowy noodles and rich dashi never grow old. Be sure to order the gobō-ten (fried burdock tempura) soaked in broth and the kashiwa onigiri (chicken rice ball) alongside your udon!

Historic Hakata Udon Institution “Inaba Udon”

Inaba Udon has four shops (Solaria Stage, Hakata Station, Hakata Deitos, and Watanabe-dōri). I visited the Watanabe-dōri branch, which still exudes that old-school udon shop charm. That sign, façade, and lantern—classic!

Founded 64 years ago, it enjoys a storied history.

I arrived around 2 PM on a holiday to avoid lunchtime crowds, yet families were still quietly slurping udon.

When you think of Hakata udon toppings, the classic is gobō-ten. My personal justice is “niku-gobō-ten udon” (meat and burdock tempura udon). And of course, I pair it with kashiwa onigiri.

Soft, fluffy noodles; sweet-savory meat; rich dashi; and broth-soaked tempura—an all-out flavor assault

First, the pre-made kashiwa onigiri arrives. You can eat it before your udon or save it to combine—your choice. (I take one bite and wait.)

Most shops sell kashiwa onigiri in pairs, but you can order a single rice ball at Inaba.

On a well-worn tray comes the majestic niku-gobō-ten udon. I always request extra green onions in advance.

Here, gobō-ten comes as a pre-fried circular disc—different from the huge, freshly fried pieces at places like “Daichi no Udon” or “Wasuke,” but just as delightful once soaked in broth.

The meat is sweet-savory seasoned beef—a perfect flavor and texture accent.

Hakata udon noodles are slightly thicker and fluffy! They have no chew, so they’re easy to cut with your chopsticks, but they’re not overcooked and mushy. To me, Sanuki udon is a noodle battle you fight with your teeth, while Hakata udon gently soaks in your soul—perfect for hangovers or soft stomachs.

By itself, gobō-ten might seem ordinary, but once it soaks up the broth it transforms into pure bliss. Hakata udon tempura doesn’t need crispiness—give me that broth-drenched batter!

The soul of Hakata udon is its dashi. Inaba Udon reportedly uses Rausu kombu from Hokkaido and iriko from Goto and Shimabara, preserving their original recipe for over 60 years.

Using all-natural Hokkaido Rausu kombu and Goto/Shimabara iriko, without any concentrated broth or dashi packs, Inaba Udon continues its traditional recipe for genuine “dashi” and “noodles.” It’s a healthful taste of old Japan. Hakata udon dashi is uniquely complex, blending kombu, katsuobushi, and various iriko fish. Founded 55 years ago with a fluffy, gentle noodle, today there are four shops keeping the pre-war recipe alive.
“Inaba Udon – Keeping the Original Ingredients and Methods” – Fukuoka Chamber of Commerce WEB (link expired)

Don’t forget to finish that reserved kashiwa onigiri by dipping it into the broth for ultimate happiness!

Note: Self-service system at peak hours

At the Watanabe-dōri branch, the lunch rush switches to self-service. You line up at the counter to pick up your udon, then add toppings like at a Sanuki chain.

Green onions become self-service too, so as a green onion lover, I’m thrilled.

One day I had the gobō-ten konbu udon. Gentle on the stomach even if you still feel last night’s hangover.

Soaked through.

Afterword

While many modern udon shops now adopt fashionable or Sanuki elements, I hope longtime favorites like Inaba Udon and “Miyake Udon” keep thriving. If you champion firmness, come try Hakata udon at least once!

Tara Town is famous for Takesaki crab, a type of blue crab that feeds on nutrient-rich organisms in the Ariake Sea’s tidal flats, making it exceptionally tasty.

The vast tidal flats formed by the Ariake Sea’s tidal shifts allow plankton and small creatures to bask in sunlight on the exposed mudflats each day. These animals absorb far-infrared rays that enhance flavor, becoming prime food for Takesaki crab, which in turn gains its renowned deliciousness.Takesaki Crab ｜ Tara Town Official Website

At Kani Goten, you can enjoy dishes generously featuring Takesaki crab.

But Kani Goten offers more than crab cuisine. The rooms are modern and immaculate, with breathtaking views. The atmosphere and service are exceptional, making it a ryokan you’ll want to revisit. If you travel around Saga or Nagasaki, I highly recommend staying here!

A Modern Entrance and Lobby with Japanese Flair

Located near the border with Nagasaki Prefecture, Tara Town’s Kani Goten sits almost on the prefectural line.

It’s about a two-hour drive from Fukuoka City and just over an hour from Nagasaki City.

This charming building is Kani Goten.

While driving is most convenient for exploring the area, Kani Goten offers shuttle service from JR Hizen-Ōura Station.

Parking and then stepping inside…

The entrance blends bamboo décor and clean lines, striking a balance between ryokan and hotel.

Guests are welcomed with homemade milk pudding and tea—delicious.

Turning around while enjoying the pudding, you spot a giant crab that might grace your dinner table!

Ocean-View Guest Rooms with Expansive Windows

Every room at Kani Goten offers an ocean view. On my first visit, I chose a standard room—what a view! A sofa faces the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Ariake Sea.

A terrace below is open to guests—perfect for photos and relaxation.

A vanity with mirror sits by the window, seamlessly integrated into the room.

A wall-mounted TV supports terrestrial, BS channels, and YouTube/VOD with smartphone mirroring—though content is limited.

A stylish CD player and Blu-ray player are also provided, great for setting the mood.

The toilet and shower booth showcase thoughtful design.

A welcome message makes guests feel special.

Eight private open-air baths are available for guests at 1,000 yen, with some plans including one hour free. Reservations are made by phone and viewable on TV.

Convenient baskets for bath visits hold guests’ belongings—far more practical than small hotel plastic bags.

The blend of design elegance and practicality is impeccable. Kani Goten delivers.

Top-Floor Open-Air Bath and Yukata Selection

With no one else around, I photographed the rooftop open-air bath’s stunning view—low railings maximize the panorama.

Although labeled “onsen,” the water is mild, focusing more on scenery than minerals.

Nearby, a yukata corner offers many sizes and designs for women (SS–LL), men (S– XXL), and children (S–L).

Crab-themed photo props are ready for memorable snapshots.

A kids’ corner near the dining area ensures families with small children are well catered to.

Enjoying Takesaki Crab at Dinner

For dinner, I chose the standard Takesaki Crab kaiseki plus Saga Wagyu lava-grilled beef (¥1,000 extra). The menu lineup is luxurious, from sashimi to crab, beef, and kamameshi (pot-cooked rice).

Seasonal small dishes and fresh sashimi kick off this indulgence.

Of course, beer paired with dinner is devilishly good… even if I missed the perfect foam shot.

Crispy fried Ariake Sea whitebait and simmered clams whet the appetite until the main course arrives: steamed Takesaki crab.

Each guest received one male and one female crab. Staff expertly crack them open for easy enjoyment—female crab’s orange roe is a special treat.

Compared to snow crab or king crab, Takesaki crab is smaller but packs intense sweetness and umami. Using the crab fork, I savored the meat, tomalley, and roe—delicious.

As a sake lover, I sampled Kani Goten’s sake tasting set featuring Saga’s Nabeshima, Mitsutake, and Hizen Kuragokoro—proof that Saga produces excellent sake.

The lava-grilled Saga Wagyu made dinner doubly impressive. Additional options like live abalone, turban shell, or prawns are available seasonally.

When the Wagyu was nearly finished, the crab pot rice was ready—aromatic and irresistible, with crispy kama-meshi crust and nori soup to finish.

Dessert was elegantly plated, rounding out a superb crab kaiseki dinner.

Free-Drink Lounge and Nighttime Terrace

Past the entrance, a lounge offers free drinks from 19:30–22:00: wine, juices, and lemon water, plus always-available coffee—perfect after bathing or before/after dinner.

The illuminated terrace beyond lounge windows invites nighttime photos or evening breezes.

Next morning, I returned after my bath. Morning free drinks include local amazake and vegetable juice. The sunrise terrace is equally inviting.

Delicious Japanese-Style Breakfast with Special TKG

Breakfast is no afterthought. Fresh-squeezed orange juice greets you at the dining entrance, followed by perfectly cooked Saga Hinokari rice, tamagoyaki, salad, pickles, grilled fish, miso soup, chawanmushi, Takesaki crab shumai, tofu, and a special crab-ryokan TKG (tamago-kake-gohan).

Every detail, from the ikura-like crab shumai to the TKG with custom soy sauce, demonstrates Kani Goten’s dedication.

Afterword

While snow crab and king crab often steal the spotlight, Takesaki crab offers a uniquely rich flavor. Kani Goten not only showcases it superbly but pairs fine service and modern design into an unforgettable experience. As a top choice for any Kyushu trip, I highly recommend Kani Goten!