Personally, I didn’t care for what I had at Hakata Station before and avoided it for a while, but I reconsidered that I should properly check by eating at the main branch, so I headed to the main branch located off Watanabe-dori.

“Daruma Ramen,” the predecessor of Hakata Daruma, was a ramen shop once operated by current owner Hideto Kawahara’s parents in Hakozaki, Higashi Ward. Hideto Kawahara is also the founder of the famous “Hidechan Ramen.” What a ramen dynasty.

変化し続ける有名店「秀ちゃんラーメン」当たり外れあるものの行く価値あり

福岡に数多くあるラーメン店の中でも、かなり知名度が高く東京にも出店している「博多だるま」と「秀ちゃんラーメン」。この2つは同じ会社が経営しているのをご存知でしょうか？この会社を経営しているのは、東区箱崎で営業しており学生時代私もよく食べに行...

ushigyu.net

After temporarily closing in 2000, his son Hideto inherited it and revived it at the current location, continuing to this day. Actually, I also lived in Hakozaki during my student days, so my friends and I often went to “Daruma Ramen.”

So it should be a nostalgic taste, but I feel the flavor is quite different from back then. Though my memory is admittedly hazy… It was over 20 years ago, after all.

So, setting aside the past, this visit was to judge based on the current taste.

Access and Transportation to Hakata Daruma Main Branch

Hakata Daruma Main Branch is on the southern edge of Tenjin, Fukuoka City’s premier entertainment district. It’s quite a distance – about a 16-minute walk from Subway Airport Line Tenjin Station, or about an 8-minute walk from Nanakuma Line Tenjin-Minami Station, somewhat far.

Unless you want to enjoy a walk, I recommend taking Nishitetsu Bus or taxi.

For example, from Hakata Station, depending on the route and time, it takes about 15 minutes total, including about 4 minutes walking.

There’s also the option of using rental bicycle service. In Fukuoka as of 2022, “ChariChari” is pretty much the only option.

Heading to Hakata Daruma Main Branch, South of Tenjin

The main branch of “Hakata Daruma” is slightly south of Tenjin, about a 10-minute walk from Tenjin-Minami Station. The modest building and additions are characteristic, unlike what you’d expect from a famous shop’s main branch.

It’s a meal ticket system, with ramen at 700 yen – quite an aggressive price. Noodle firmness can be chosen from barikatta, kata, regular, or yawa. As an aside, Fukuoka locals mostly order “kata.” Occasionally “regular.” Mostly tourists order “barikatta.”

The interior has exposed concrete with a slightly stylish feel.

On the table are white pickled ginger, sesame, pepper, gyoza sauce, and chili oil. No spicy mustard greens.

【April 2018】Slightly Heavy on Fat? But Delicious Ramen

The ramen arrived shortly after. Looks like standard Hakata ramen.

The toppings are also orthodox – just two slices of chashu and green onions.

A sip of soup… oh!? Much tastier than my previous impression. (Sorry) When I ate at Hakata Station before, the flavor seemed thin, but this has a moderate pork bone flavor with decent punch.

Not my top recommendation, but much tastier than I remembered. Maybe because it’s the main branch. (@ Hakata Daruma in Fukuoka City, Fukuoka) https://t.co/7PAQodPLqD pic.twitter.com/tURMxMaOYC

— Shotaro Ushijima (@ushigyu) March 30, 2018

The noodles are ultra-thin, which as far as I remember, I’ve only seen at Shin-Shin. Recommended to order kata and eat quickly.

The chashu is slightly out of focus, but typical of Hakata ramen – two thin slices without much volume, but the flavor is well absorbed.

It’s reasonably delicious, but personally I feel there’s a bit too much fat for the flavor intensity. The richness is 5 out of 5, but the flavor punch is only about 3 out of 5, so it feels unbalanced. If going for rich and hearty, I’d want a more powerful flavor, and if aiming for accessible and balanced taste, I’d want less fat. After eating, it hit my stomach several times harder than the impression while eating.

【April 2022】Recreating Original Recipe: Transformed into Intensely Rich, Pork-Smelling Wild Ramen!

The “Hakata Daruma Main Branch” ramen I saw in YouTube videos looked completely different from what I’d eaten before…! To verify what was happening, I revisited in April 2022 after a long absence.

The signboard that should have been white is now orange, already different from the exterior.

Compared to four years ago, ramen has only increased by 20 yen. The menu has expanded with fried rice and small appetizers.

Inside the shop is the signboard from when they operated in Hakozaki, Higashi Ward from founding until around 2000. Actually, I attended Kyushu University in Hakozaki starting in 1999 right before they closed, so I often ate Daruma Ramen after drinking. So nostalgic.

I admittedly don’t remember the visuals from 20 years ago well, but the ramen photo is clearly a different color from four years ago. What kind of ramen will arrive…?

The ramen that arrived bore no resemblance to four years ago. What is this brown foam…! While Ikkousha and Issou are famous for foam-style ramen, this has a different wild color.

The tsukimi ramen my wife ordered. This also naturally has the same base, so wild appearance.

My ramen has such a thick layer of fat (lard?) that when I put in chopsticks, I can see through it for a while.

When I scoop it with a spoon, it looks about 70% fat. Is this the default…?

But when I work hard to mix from the bottom and scoop and drink, while wild and pork-smelling, it has strong umami and is very delicious! While easy-to-eat, well-behaved ramen suppressing pork smell is increasing, “Hakata Daruma Main Branch” that dared to change to this much wildness is not to be underestimated…!

Since it was so different from last time, I researched and found they renewed to the original recipe on the occasion of their 58th anniversary in December 2021. Only the main branch changed to the original recipe, while other branches keep the previous “Hakata Daruma” taste.

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A post shared by Hakata Daruma Main Branch(@hakata_daruma_honten)

The noodles are ultra-thin, firmly bringing the soup flavor to your mouth.

The fried rice and gyoza are also properly delicious. Should satisfyingly and deliciously fill the stomachs of those wanting to eat heartily.

Still, the amount of fat in my ramen seemed excessive, but my wife’s ramen (though it has a fat layer) wasn’t as much as my soup. Since I didn’t order extra rich, there may still be quality variations since they just renewed. Looking forward to improvements.

It had become completely different from the previous “Hakata Daruma Main Branch” image – wild, pork-smelling ramen with intense punch. I also ate at Hakozaki Daruma often, but I honestly don’t remember how accurate the flavor recreation is… It was over 20 years ago after all. (I feel there was a fat layer, but not this much punch power…)

People who like “that kind of ramen” will surely love it. Very delicious but beware of indigestion.

Final Thoughts

Ramen preferences vary widely, so as with any shop, some people will like it and others won’t. There’s no doubt it’s one of Fukuoka’s leading famous shops, so I think it’s worth visiting and judging for yourself!

While it’s called a soul food of Fukuoka, due to delivery logistics, it had only existed along highways in the suburbs, which was unfortunate as you couldn’t eat it in downtown Fukuoka.

But Maki no Udon has now opened at Hakata Bus Terminal right next to Hakata Station! I rushed over to inspect and sample it.

While operations differ somewhat from existing large stores, what was served was unmistakably Maki no Udon. As a Fukuoka resident, I’m thrilled it’s now in an easily accessible location.

Maki no Udon Opens in Hakata Bus Terminal Basement

Maki no Udon opened at Hakata Bus Terminal, which is connected to Hakata Station. You can easily access it via the underground passage from the subway or JR station, or by exiting Hakata Station’s main exit and turning right.

The shop is next to Mos Burger, in a slightly recessed location if coming via the underground passage. “Kamaage Maki no Udon” – this is definitely it.

Perhaps to reduce labor costs, unlike other locations, this one uses a meal ticket system. There are also set menus that other stores don’t have, showing consideration for the different location and customer base. Since it was still morning, I ordered conservatively: a mini udon and mini kashiwa rice set.

Existing stores occupy spacious suburban sites with attached noodle-making facilities, but being in a basement near Hakata Station, that’s obviously not possible here. The capacity is about 30-40 people, and there’s clearly no space for noodle-making. They’re probably delivered directly from a nearby location.

Green onions and chili peppers on the table. As a green onion lover, having all-you-can-add green onions really elevates my impression of a place.

The Joy of Tasting “Those Noodles” Near the Station

Mini udon and mini kashiwa rice set has arrived! A characteristic of Maki no Udon is that it comes with a kettle containing extra dashi broth for adding.

Being mini size, it’s somewhat less impressive, but you can still immediately see these are “those noodles.” (By the way, this is medium firmness – you can choose from firm, medium, or soft. If you don’t want them to expand too much, choose firm.) Despite being small, it comes with meat udon toppings, fried shrimp, and boiled egg, giving it good value.

Mini kashiwa rice. About the size of one rice ball. But combined with the mini udon, I think it’s enough for one adult serving. (Meaning the regular udon is quite substantial in volume.)

By the way, this is my perfect udon customized to personal preference. I love green onions.

While not as dramatic since it’s mini size, if you dawdle, the noodles absorb broth and expand to the point where you think “Wait, did I order zaru udon?” so add soup from the kettle when it runs low. The broth in the kettle seems slightly saltier than what’s initially in the bowl, so be careful about sodium intake.

Final Thoughts

I’m very pleased that Maki no Udon, which previously required a considerable bus or car/motorcycle journey to reach, is now in an easily accessible location.

This is definitely going on my list of strong dining candidates when visiting the Hakata Station area.

By the way, for those from other prefectures, Maki no Udon does not equal Hakata udon. While it does have the characteristic soft noodles typical of Hakata udon, only Maki no Udon expands this aggressively, and there are almost no other shops with noodles this thick.

To give an analogy, it’s like saying Tokyo ramen ≠ Ramen Jiro, you know? (Hope that gets across)

You can eat fresh sashimi and live squid sashimi at ordinary izakayas around here.

One place that supports Fukuoka’s dining establishments, called “Hakata’s Kitchen,” is Yanagibashi Rengou Market.

It’s located very close to Tenjin, Fukuoka’s premier entertainment district, with various fresh ingredients lined up daily.

This time, I visited Yanagibashi Shokudo, a dining establishment inside this market!

Walking Through “Hakata’s Kitchen” – Yanagibashi Rengou Market

The exterior of Yanagibashi Rengou Market. An appearance that evokes a sense of history.

It’s within walking distance from Tenjin.

Going inside, it really feels like a traditional old-fashioned market. Fresh fish and vegetables are lined up.

Since it’s more geared toward businesses, foot traffic isn’t that heavy. Still, thanks to the lively calls, it’s a street where you can feel the energy.

Walking further along…

Hidden Gem “Yanagibashi Shokudo” in the Back of a Fresh Fish Shop

Found it! This must be Yanagibashi Shokudo… right? There’s a noren curtain saying “Dining Place,” so it must be correct.

The menu is posted on the first-floor wall, where you order and pay in advance. This time, I chose the most popular “Kaisen-don” (seafood bowl). 650 yen is cheap!
*Prices from 2012

Going up the stairs, waiting at the second-floor seating. (I forgot to take a photo when going up, so this is from above)

When I went up to the second floor, people who seemed like locals were waiting for their orders.

Going left, there are more table seats in the back. An elderly couple who also look like locals are eating here.

On the wall to the side, bold text reads “We ship nationwide.”

I went around 11:30, but office workers and other customers kept increasing, and I ended up sharing a table. It seems lunchtime gets crowded with locals.

Fresh, Cheap, and Delicious – Truly a Market Seafood Bowl

While this was happening, the seafood bowl arrived! A bowl with chunks of white fish, miso soup with fish broth, and pickles.

When you think of seafood bowls, you imagine various fish beautifully arranged for over a thousand yen… but this one has white fish like sea bream and others piled on generously (and somewhat haphazardly?).

Being in a market, freshness is guaranteed. 650 yen for this is definitely cheap…!
*Prices from 2012

The fish is already lightly marinated in sauce, but you can also add this soy sauce if you like. I dissolved wasabi in sashimi soy sauce and poured it on.

Can you see it? This slightly translucent look of the sashimi. There’s no way this wouldn’t be delicious.

As I continued eating, I found salmon buried underneath. This one has nicely fatty texture. (ﾟдﾟ) Delicious!!

When I finished eating and tried to leave, the storefront was bustling with housewives. There’s something nice about community-based shops.

Final Thoughts

Both the seafood bowl and miso soup were delicious, but in addition to that, the market atmosphere really added great flavor.

Since it’s close to Tenjin, why not stop by for a stroll sometime?

I’ve been to Ganso Nagahama-ya before, so this time I decided to visit Fukiya, an okonomiyaki restaurant.

When it comes to okonomiyaki, I only knew “Hiroshima-style” and “Kansai-style,” but what exactly is Fukiya’s okonomiyaki, which is neither of those?

Fukiya – Hakata’s Distinctive Okonomiyaki Establishment

Fukiya apparently has multiple locations throughout Fukuoka Prefecture, but this time I visited the Akasaka branch.
※Note: Fukiya’s Akasaka location has closed as of 2024.

Following the directions on my iPhone map, I arrived at… wait, here?
It’s quite… a narrow market, isn’t it? (My apologies to those involved.)

I ventured down the narrow alley.
This area is relatively urban, close to Tenjin, Fukuoka’s most vibrant district, yet I never knew such a place existed here.

Continuing further, I spotted a lantern reading “Okonomiyaki.”

I’d arrived!

Pushing through the aged noren curtain, I entered.

A quaint, old-fashioned establishment with good atmosphere.

The shop owner was vigorously cooking on the griddle.

The menu shows its age. Prices are very reasonable!

As of 2024, the Akasaka branch featured in this article has closed, though apparently eight other locations remain operating in Fukuoka City.

Thick, Crispy, and Generous – Hakata’s Distinctive “Hakata Okonomiyaki”

Before long, my ordered meat okonomiyaki (¥500) arrived!

The surface is coated with sauce and burned until crispy and parched.

On the table are thick mayonnaise and sauce.

I drizzled on the thick mayonnaise, rarely seen at other okonomiyaki restaurants.

The sauce is even thicker and more viscous than the mayo.

The okonomiyaki itself contains no soba noodles, but compared to Kansai-style, it’s distinctly thick.
The surface is cooked until it becomes crispy and parched. It’s packed with volume and quite delicious!

To be honest, I prefer Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, but this is worthwhile in its own way.

Not absolutely amazing, but the kind of flavor you occasionally crave.

Final Thoughts

I had no association of okonomiyaki with Fukuoka, yet here was this restaurant all along.

I’d definitely like to visit again occasionally!

Recently, a friend from Tokyo came to visit me in Fukuoka, so I welcomed them with motsunabe!

While Fukuoka has numerous motsunabe restaurants, I was surprised by the luxurious interior and atmosphere of the famous establishment Yamanaka Akasaka branch, which resembles a high-end hotel.

Of course, the signature miso motsunabe and other dishes are excellent!

Yamanaka Akasaka – Decorated Like an Upscale International Hotel

Located about 3 minutes on foot from Akasaka subway station, it’s on the 2nd floor of a building with a supermarket called “Sunny” on the ground floor.

The entrance is like this.

Climbing the stairs reveals… a Western-style landing that makes you doubt this is really a motsunabe restaurant.

The entranceway.

The waiting area at the entrance.

How sophisticated…

Even the counter.
By any measure, this looks more like a luxury overseas hotel than a motsunabe restaurant.

But when shown to the back, it’s definitely a motsunabe restaurant.

The dining space is like this. Private rooms are also available.

Miso-Flavored Motsunabe is Especially Recommended! Other Dishes Like Spicy Cod Roe Are Also Delicious

The menu features motsunabe (miso, soy sauce, and shabu-shabu style), as well as spicy mentaiko (cod roe).

The selection of alcoholic beverages is also extensive.

First, we toast and enjoy edamame.

Vinegared offal, a standard appetizer in Fukuoka. Delicious.

Serving individual spicy cod roe is quite rare. Genuinely delicious.

And here comes the main event—miso motsunabe!!

This is truly delicious. I’m basically a “motsunabe should be soy sauce” person, but this miso motsunabe genuinely awakened me to its charms.

Of course, we finish with chanpon noodles.

And then…

Motsunabe Round 2—soy sauce flavored motsunabe!

This is also undoubtedly delicious.

We finish this one with double chanpon noodles.

Simply delicious!

After the hot pot, we relax while sipping drinks.

My friend strikes a pose reminiscent of something seen before.

On the way to the restroom is this space. What is this…so stylish…

By now, it’s impossible to tell what kind of business this is.
Incidentally, the restroom was also impeccably clean, befitting a luxury hotel.

Thank you for the wonderful meal!

Final Thoughts

True to Fukuoka’s status as the sacred home of motsunabe, there’s such variety in atmosphere and flavor that you never tire. And rarely do you encounter a disappointing meal.

This is an undeniably excellent establishment, so definitely visit when you come to Fukuoka!

As I mentioned at the start, various beloved restaurants exist in different areas.

Among these, particularly in southern Fukuoka, there’s an establishment that truly deserves the designation “soul food”: Bikkuri Tei.

The perfectly balanced garlic-infused teppan yakiniku paired with their secret spicy miso is dangerously addictive. Hearing “grilled meat with garlic flavor and spicy miso” might make you think you understand what to expect—but the actual addictiveness is 100 times more intense than you’d imagine. Former AKB member Mariko Shinoda (from Itoshima, Fukuoka) is reportedly a devoted regular.

お昼ご飯♪オススメな店ににゃろ連れてきた( *｀ω´)あーーーめっちゃうまー( *｀ω´) pic.twitter.com/izGuGsFkW4

— 篠田麻里子 (@mariko_dayo) June 20, 2013

福岡のびっくり亭を名古屋れなひょん、大阪ミルキーに教えた（笑）
れなひょんは肉食べれないらしくキャベツ食べてたよ( *｀ω´)美味しかったーーびっくり亭3日目ですわたし(//∇//) pic.twitter.com/KZLpt8T5hK

— 篠田麻里子 (@mariko_dayo) June 22, 2013

🍴🍚#びっくり亭 #博多グルメ

shinodamarikoさん(@shinodamariko3)がシェアした投稿 – December 22, 2013 at 6:59pm PST

With ramen, mizutaki (chicken hot pot), motsunabe, sesame-marinated mackerel, udon, and yakitori—visitors to Fukuoka face countless delicious choices. For those wanting hearty fare, Bikkuri Tei is your destination!

First Visit: Bikkuri Tei Takamiya Branch

Though I’d heard Bikkuri Tei was Fukuoka soul food, I hadn’t managed to visit until now.

I decided to try the Takamiya branch, the closest to my home in central Fukuoka.

About 3 minutes on foot from Nishi-Tetsutakamiya Station. The restaurant occupies a corner of “Aji no Michikusagori Street,” retaining Showa-era charm.

Yes, this is it!

Classic noren curtain, lantern, and signage. This is the place!

The main menu is straightforward: grilled meat single (¥800), 1.5 servings (¥1,150), two servings (¥1,600), and that’s it. Refreshingly simple. Beyond that, just rice and kimchi.

On the table sits Bikkuri Tei’s special extra-hot miso. Though labeled “extra-hot,” those who enjoy spicy food won’t find it overly intense. (Those sensitive to heat should be cautious.)

The interior features counter and tatami seating. Arriving at an off-hour meant it was relatively quiet, but customers soon streamed in, filling the place.

Thinking beer essential with teppan yakiniku, I ordered some and snapped photos, but…

The single serving of grilled meat arrives instantly! It sizzles temptingly.
The special garlic sauce aroma further stimulates appetite—I’m reaching my limit of restraint.

But before eating—don’t forget to insert the wooden wedge underneath one side of the plate, tilting the griddle. The reason? I’ll explain later, or rather, I wasn’t entirely sure at this point myself.

Since grilled meat is served alone, those wanting substantial rice should definitely order it separately! First rice orders come with miso soup!

Ohhhh, let’s eat!
The perfectly balanced garlic and salt sauce is extraordinary! It disappears with the rice!

As is, it’s already excellent, but when combined with the special spicy miso…

It becomes an unreasonably addictive creation. Should be regulated by law.

After eating for a while, I realized my mistake… I was eating it wrong!
You’re supposed to tilt the plate to create a pool of fat and sauce, then dissolve the spicy miso into it for eating. I’d tilted the plate for nothing…

As I ate, the restaurant filled progressively. Truly a popular spot. Notably, many young people.

Finished with flavorful miso soup. Ahh, delicious!

Where It All Began: The Original Bikkuri Tei Honke in Minami Fukuoka

I initially planned to complete my article with just the Takamiya branch report, but a Fukuoka friend insisted, “If you’re writing about it, you absolutely have to visit the original!” So I made an impromptu visit.

Just 1 minute on foot from JR Minami-Fukuoka Station, about 10 minutes from Nishi-Tetsuzassho-kuma Station.

A yakiniku hall, founded in 1963. Excellent.

The menu is nearly identical to the Takamiya branch. Interestingly, they even serve ramen… must try. The original thoughtfully includes “delicious serving method” instructions.
Still, with single at ¥800 and double at ¥1,600, why is 1.5 servings ¥1,150 rather than ¥1,200?

The special spicy miso naturally sits on the table.

While the Takamiya branch has character, the original shows distinctly aged patina.

Though it was lunch and I had work afterward, visiting Bikkuri Tei makes beer resistance impossible! My apologies!

The griddle grilled meat arrives, perpetuating its addictive sizzle and aroma.

Sharing this overwhelming visual with everyone.

Tilt properly with the wedge.

Frantically ordering rice, forgetting it’s separate.

First, eat it plain. Ahh, exquisite! Delicious! So good!

And this time, I’ll get it right. The fat and sauce-infused liquid accumulated from tilting. Into it…

Add the spicy miso from the table…

Mix to create the special sauce…

Coat and eat! Coat and eat! Perfect!

Final Thoughts

While Fukuoka offers countless delicacies, in terms of pure addictiveness, this might be my personal favorite… I’m that impressed.

The downside is its location away from Fukuoka’s center, making regular visits somewhat inconvenient. In my personal ranking of restaurants I’d like to see in Tenjin or Hakata Station areas, it ties for first with [Sukesanudon]—a Kita-Kyushu udon chain.

This insider Fukuoka specialty absolutely deserves a taste!

▼Takamiya Branch Information

▼Original Location Information

I’ve lived in Fukuoka for 13 years total, but only recently visited for the first time.
That’s because, unlike famous ramen shops or motsu nabe restaurants, it’s more of a “local gem that locals know” than a universally recognized spot (in my personal impression).

On a sizzling hot iron plate sits pasta, topped with thin-sliced sautéed beef.
This is the Beef Butter Yaki—drizzled with a special sauce loaded with aromatic vegetables.

When the special sauce—loaded with aromatic vegetables and crafted in a Japanese-style barbecue style—is poured over the beef sauté on a piping hot iron plate, it releases a delicious sizzle! The aroma rises up with the steam, fragrant and mouth-watering.
Gourmet Fugetsu | Fugetsu Foods Co., Ltd.

The tangy seasoning is exquisite—the savory depth lingers while the finish remains clean. It’s the perfect rice topper.

The pasta in contact with the hot iron plate gradually develops a crispy, caramelized crust. This crispy layer provides texture and an aromatic, toasted flavor that’s both enjoyable and delicious.

Whether you’re a hearty eater or a Fukuoka food connoisseur who’s tried everything the local food scene has to offer, this is a dish you absolutely must try!

Gourmet Fugetsu in Tenjin Core: Savor the Signature Beef Butter Yaki

Gourmet Fugetsu is located on B1F of “Tenjin Core,” situated along Watanabe-dori, the main street of Tenjin.
Incidentally, there’s apparently another location at the Hirokawa Service Area in Yame, Fukuoka Prefecture.

Since the building is filled with women’s fashion, cosmetics, and accessory shops, male visitors might find it a bit awkward to walk through, but don’t worry—just head downstairs.

There it is, tucked a bit further back—Teppanyaki Gourmet Fugetsu, identifiable by its cow-like logo.
It was around 3pm on a weekday when I visited, so the place wasn’t full, but seeing chairs lined up suggests this place gets queues during lunch or on weekends.

The signature dish is definitely the Beef Butter Yaki. There are also combo versions with hamburger and versions topped with a poached egg, apparently.
Looking at the menu makes me want to eat everything!

The interior is narrow and elongated with counter seating and impressive sofa tables. Antique-looking urns and statues are displayed around the shop, giving it a sense of history.

The combo and poached egg versions are tempting, but for a first visit, the classic Beef Butter Yaki is the way to go. ¥1,080 including tax.

There’s also butter-grilled salad, a half-portion for women that comes with corn soup and salad, plus hamburger and steak options.

Beef Butter Yaki with Tangy Special Sauce – Absolutely Delicious

When your order arrives, the special Beef Butter Yaki sauce and soup come out first. Don’t accidentally drink the sauce!
The soup is consommé-like but with a distinctive depth I can’t quite place. Regardless, it’s delicious.

While sipping soup, you can watch the chef cooking at the counter and anticipate the Beef Butter Yaki.

When the Beef Butter Yaki arrives, you’re given what looks like an apron. “The sauce splatters, so please use this,” you’re told.
(The photo is taken after the sauce has been poured.)

When you say yes to “Shall I pour the sauce?”, the special sauce is poured over the hot iron plate, pasta, and beef. What an appetite-awakening sound!

Wow! Looks amazing!

The rice originally came in a smaller portion, but I couldn’t resist asking for extra. With such beef staring me in the face… well, you understand.
Come to think of it, since pasta is also carbohydrate, the smaller rice portion probably accounts for that, compared to a standard Western set meal. I gave in to temptation, but no regrets!

The tender thin-sliced beef, combined with the soy-based special sauce loaded with grated aromatic vegetables, is tangy and fruity.
While refreshing, the flavor is robust, and you’ll find yourself piling rice and pasta eagerly. This is delicious!

And another joy: the pasta’s crispy “scorched crust” baked on the iron plate.

The contrast between the charred, crispy sections and the softer sections, plus the toasted aroma, is enjoyable. Despite the substantial portion, it never gets boring.

Supplementary Information About Gourmet Fugetsu

Tenjin Core Closed in March 2020 – Where Did Gourmet Fugetsu Move?

As of 2018, Fukuoka’s Tenjin district was undergoing a major redevelopment project called the “Tenjin Big Bang” to rebuild buildings for completion by 2024.

As part of this, Tenjin Core—where Gourmet Fugetsu was located—closed in March 2020. It remains to be seen whether a new branch opened elsewhere in Tenjin, if they waited for the new building, or if they withdrew altogether.

Fugetsu Foods – A Company Familiar to Fukuoka Residents

Fugetsu Foods, which operates Gourmet Fugetsu, is the company behind a famous souvenir that Fukuoka residents know from TV commercials.

♪Snow rabbit~ Snow rabbit~ Why are your eyes so red~ Mother cried dreaming~ ♪

If you can sing along, you know: Snow Rabbit(雪うさぎ), a Hakata specialty cake.

The charming Hakata specialty “Snow Rabbit” with red eyes.
Fluffy marshmallow like melting snow wraps white bean paste inside. A gentle, sweet fragrance spreads.
Product Introduction | Fugetsu Foods Co., Ltd.

They apparently started with a coffeehouse, expanded to restaurants, then ventured into the confectionery business.

I didn’t know they had such history!

Fugetsu at Fukuoka Airport Has Amazing Curry – And Beef Butter Yaki Too

Fugetsu also operates a steakhouse at Fukuoka Airport on the 3F (same floor as the Ramen Runway).

It’s called “Steakhouse Gourmet Fugetsu The Origin“—quite a sophisticated name, like a Gundam title!

I’ve been once, and their curry was absolutely incredible.

福岡空港のステーキ屋のカレーが高いけどめっちゃうまくて驚いた

— Shotaro Ushijima (@ushigyu) October 2, 2017

I believe it was weekday lunch-exclusive at the time, but if you get the chance, definitely try it.

Additionally, on the 2F food court, there’s a shop called “Tenjin B.B.Quisine” that also serves the Beef Butter Yaki introduced here.

Give it a try too!

空港｜風月フーズ株式会社

空港事業についてご紹介いたします。

fugetsu.co.jp

(https://www.fugetsu.co.jp/business/airport/)

Final Thoughts

I’ve been to quite a few Fukuoka restaurants, but I never knew this place existed!
Fukuoka’s food scene still has depths to explore.

Located conveniently in Tenjin and at Fukuoka Airport, if you haven’t experienced it, you absolutely should!

2023 update: The flagship main branch sits just across the crosswalk from Hakata Station. According to MenMusubi, a major 2018 renovation further refined its flavor. As a Fukuoka ramen fanatic, I had to see for myself!

Hakata Ikkōsha Main Branch: Refined Frothy Tonkotsu Near Hakata Station

The main branch is a five-minute walk from Hakata Station’s east exit, across a single crosswalk. Its unassuming façade can be easy to miss.

On a weekday afternoon there was no queue—yet the water cooler hinted at busier lunch rushes.

Inside, a compact space offers a ten-seat L-shaped counter and a few tables. Purchase tickets at the multilingual vending machine, which supports simplified and traditional Chinese, Korean, and English.

Each seat features a built-in water tap in conveyor-sushi style—a unique touch.

Condiments include ramen tare, gyoza sauce, pepper, sesame, garlic, spicy takana greens, and uncolored ginger. Hair ties are provided for long-haired diners.

While waiting, I sampled the takana—perfectly balanced salty-spicy greens ideal with both rice and ramen.

Staff led by a personable hostess provided warm, efficient service—proof of a great workplace atmosphere.

Evolved Frothy Tonkotsu: Smooth, Deep, and Refined

My frothy tonkotsu ramen arrived in a branded bowl. Aside from a larger chashu cut, it looked like classic Ikkōsha.

The rich foam, usually skimmed as scum, here signals an intense, deeper bone broth flavor—essential to Ikkōsha’s signature.

I added a char-mayo rice bowl and bite-size gyoza. Let’s dig in!

The broth retained Ikkōsha’s umami while removing sharper edges, resulting in a smoother, more universally appealing soup.

Noodles are uniquely flat and rectangular to better lift the soup—offering a fun, firm chew.

The chashu is a single thick slice, lightly seasoned to enhance without overshadowing the broth.

The bite-size gyoza surprised me—easily among the top ramen-house gyoza I’ve tasted, with well-seasoned filling begging for rice.

Char-mayo rice was tasty but predictable; the mentaiko rice might be the better pick.

Never skip the takana topping—it’s a perfect complement to both rice and noodles.

Afterword

A July 2021 revisit revealed that tweaking the soy tare elevated the broth’s depth even further—now a top Fukuoka recommendation. If you have time before or after using Hakata Station, walk over to this flagship for an exceptional ramen experience!

About 15 years ago when I was working in the Tokyo metropolitan area, I gathered with friends in Fukuoka and ate ramen at a Fubi branch that used to be in Kawabata. I remember being impressed and thinking, “Fukuoka’s tonkotsu ramen really is delicious!”
To confirm that memorable taste, I went to the main store located in Hara, Sawara Ward, Fukuoka City.

To be honest, I can’t tell if it tasted the same as what I had at the branch years ago (I can’t remember that well), but Fubi’s ramen was truly very delicious!
The crisp soy sauce tare combined with the rich umami of well-simmered tonkotsu broth creates a punchy yet well-balanced flavor.
And their yakimeshi (fried rice) is incredibly delicious too.
It’s no wonder this is a popular local establishment that has been around for so long.

While it’s a bit far from central Fukuoka areas like Tenjin and Hakata Station (about 15-20 minutes by car), it’s definitely worth the trip for this skilled restaurant!

Access and Basic Information for “Hakata Nagahama Ramen Fubi Hara Main Store”

“Hakata Nagahama Ramen Fubi Hara Main Store” is located along National Route 202 in Sawara Ward, Fukuoka City.

Since it’s quite far from subway lines, if using public transportation, taking a bus or taxi would be best. With Nishitetsu Bus, get off at “Hara” and it’s about a 4-minute walk.
Going by car is simple and easy to understand, but since it’s a popular restaurant, the parking lot might be full.

【Basic Information for Hakata Nagahama Ramen Fubi】

“Fubi’s Ramen” – Long Beloved by Locals

After getting off at Hara bus stop and walking about 4 minutes in the blazing summer heat, I arrived at “Hakata Nagahama Ramen Fubi.”
Officially, it’s “Fubi” (風靡) from the expression meaning “to take the world by storm.”

You can tell just by looking that this is a restaurant that has been beloved by locals for a long time.

The interior has counter seats, table seats, and tatami seating areas and is quite spacious, making it easy for anyone from solo diners to families with children to enter comfortably.
I came around 2 PM on a weekday, but customers kept coming in continuously – it was very busy.

Ramen is 670 yen, the popular yakimeshi set is 1,080 yen, and the half yakimeshi set is 940 yen. They even have ramen with ma-yu (black garlic oil), miso, and soy sauce ramen. (Prices as of August 2022)
I chose the half yakimeshi set.

On the table are spicy pickled mustard greens, ramen sauce, ground sesame, pickled ginger, garlic, etc.

Rich Ramen with Soy Sauce Tare and Pork Bone Umami Balanced at the Highest Level

Here’s Fubi’s ramen! The brown soup has half the surface covered with generous green onions and the other half with chashu, so you can’t see the noodles in this style.

First, I take a sip of the soup… Delicious!!!

The crisp-tasting soy sauce tare is thoroughly enveloped by pork extract, creating a strong overall umami flavor. It’s an incredibly delicious soup with high-level balance.
Apparently, it’s made by simmering three types of pork bones, pork skin, back fat, and belly fat.
While Nagahama ramen generally has a light image, Fubi’s ramen leans more toward the rich side.
【Reference】Comparison of Ganso Nagahamaya and Nagahamake ①②

The house-made noodles use only the center part of the wheat.
I ordered them “kata” (firm), and they had just the right balance with a slight crispy texture remaining in the center. They pair perfectly with the rich soup.

Large, crispy green onions that you can enjoy the texture of.
The textured green onions function perfectly as an accent to the incredibly delicious soup.

The thin-sliced chashu is well-infused with soy sauce tare flavor, so I recommend eating it bit by bit or combining it with yakimeshi or rice.

The spicy pickled mustard greens on the table are also something you don’t want to miss, but I don’t recommend soaking them too much in the soup as it will change the carefully balanced flavor.
It’s better to eat them without mixing too much or combine them with side dishes like yakimeshi.

Another Specialty on Par with Ramen – The Incredibly Delicious Yakimeshi

Fubi’s other specialty, yakimeshi (photo shows half yakimeshi).

The ingredients are simple – roast pork, egg, and green onions – but with wok techniques that all employees learn and unique seasoning, it’s incredibly delicious.
This also has a robust flavor, and when you put it in your mouth, you can clearly feel “this is so good~~~.”

Of course, I finished everything! It was extremely delicious.

Final Thoughts

Beyond the deliciousness of the ramen and fried rice, the atmosphere inside the restaurant is also wonderful.
The kitchen is lively, the staff are friendly, and customers who presumably live nearby keep coming in constantly.
It’s the kind of place that makes you think “it would be amazing to have a restaurant like this nearby.”

This is one of Fukuoka’s top recommended ramen shops. I definitely want you to go try it!
Next time, I’d like to try their champon and miso/soy sauce ramen too.

I never thought they would come to Fukuoka, so it was a pleasant surprise!
(Matsushige-san, who plays Goro, is from Fukuoka, so it might have been deeply moving for him)
I was watching with keen interest to see which restaurants would be featured.

One of the restaurants introduced there was “Miyake Udon.”
The old-fashioned storefront that made you feel like you’d traveled back in time, along with the atmosphere of the interior and the shop owner (played by Komatsu Masao, also from Fukuoka), had an indescribable charm.

It was personally a restaurant I’d been curious about since passing by it before, so I went there right away!

“Miyake Udon” – A charming restaurant that makes you feel like you’ve time-traveled

This is it, this is it. This atmosphere.
The Gofukumachi area where “Miyake Udon” is located still retains relatively Showa-era streetscapes, but this place stands out even among them.

The weathered signboard, noren curtain, and paper lanterns are so good. Excuse me for entering.

Since I went around 4:00 PM, there were no customers, and the owner was reading a newspaper at the back table where Goro sat. When I entered, he stood up and said, “We only have udon and soba.” Unfortunately, the inari sushi was sold out during lunch.
From the also-weathered menu, I ordered udon with maruten (fish cake) and egg.

The atmospheric interior.

The mysterious painting that was also shown in the broadcast is still there.

There are several autographs too. The newest one is, of course, from Matsushige Yutaka.

There was also a poster displayed.

Simple Hakata udon. But that’s what makes it good

It came out in less than 5 minutes. Udon!
(BGM plays in my head)

The noodles are extremely thick. Being chewy with no firmness is the Hakata way.
It’s a comforting, simple taste that you never get tired of no matter when you eat it. Deeply delicious.

Green onions are placed on the table and you can add as much as you want, so…

Naturally, this happens. Udon with plenty of green onions is the best.

A space with only the shop owner and me.
Only the sound of slurping noodles echoes.
Somehow, it’s nice.

Thank you for the meal, atmosphere and all.

Afterword

While the TV version of “Solitary Gourmet” often features trendy restaurants, the manga version tends to feature more of these charming, atmospheric places.
In that sense, this was truly a long-established udon shop where you could experience the authentic “Solitary Gourmet” feeling.
Please visit once by all means.

Although more udon shops in Fukuoka now offer firmer noodles, one of the few that still serve the classic Hakata style is “Inaba Udon.” With four locations in Fukuoka City, this locally beloved chain’s soft, pillowy noodles and rich dashi never grow old. Be sure to order the gobō-ten (fried burdock tempura) soaked in broth and the kashiwa onigiri (chicken rice ball) alongside your udon!

Historic Hakata Udon Institution “Inaba Udon”

Inaba Udon has four shops (Solaria Stage, Hakata Station, Hakata Deitos, and Watanabe-dōri). I visited the Watanabe-dōri branch, which still exudes that old-school udon shop charm. That sign, façade, and lantern—classic!

Founded 64 years ago, it enjoys a storied history.

I arrived around 2 PM on a holiday to avoid lunchtime crowds, yet families were still quietly slurping udon.

When you think of Hakata udon toppings, the classic is gobō-ten. My personal justice is “niku-gobō-ten udon” (meat and burdock tempura udon). And of course, I pair it with kashiwa onigiri.

Soft, fluffy noodles; sweet-savory meat; rich dashi; and broth-soaked tempura—an all-out flavor assault

First, the pre-made kashiwa onigiri arrives. You can eat it before your udon or save it to combine—your choice. (I take one bite and wait.)

Most shops sell kashiwa onigiri in pairs, but you can order a single rice ball at Inaba.

On a well-worn tray comes the majestic niku-gobō-ten udon. I always request extra green onions in advance.

Here, gobō-ten comes as a pre-fried circular disc—different from the huge, freshly fried pieces at places like “Daichi no Udon” or “Wasuke,” but just as delightful once soaked in broth.

The meat is sweet-savory seasoned beef—a perfect flavor and texture accent.

Hakata udon noodles are slightly thicker and fluffy! They have no chew, so they’re easy to cut with your chopsticks, but they’re not overcooked and mushy. To me, Sanuki udon is a noodle battle you fight with your teeth, while Hakata udon gently soaks in your soul—perfect for hangovers or soft stomachs.

By itself, gobō-ten might seem ordinary, but once it soaks up the broth it transforms into pure bliss. Hakata udon tempura doesn’t need crispiness—give me that broth-drenched batter!

The soul of Hakata udon is its dashi. Inaba Udon reportedly uses Rausu kombu from Hokkaido and iriko from Goto and Shimabara, preserving their original recipe for over 60 years.

Using all-natural Hokkaido Rausu kombu and Goto/Shimabara iriko, without any concentrated broth or dashi packs, Inaba Udon continues its traditional recipe for genuine “dashi” and “noodles.” It’s a healthful taste of old Japan. Hakata udon dashi is uniquely complex, blending kombu, katsuobushi, and various iriko fish. Founded 55 years ago with a fluffy, gentle noodle, today there are four shops keeping the pre-war recipe alive.
“Inaba Udon – Keeping the Original Ingredients and Methods” – Fukuoka Chamber of Commerce WEB (link expired)

Don’t forget to finish that reserved kashiwa onigiri by dipping it into the broth for ultimate happiness!

Note: Self-service system at peak hours

At the Watanabe-dōri branch, the lunch rush switches to self-service. You line up at the counter to pick up your udon, then add toppings like at a Sanuki chain.

Green onions become self-service too, so as a green onion lover, I’m thrilled.

One day I had the gobō-ten konbu udon. Gentle on the stomach even if you still feel last night’s hangover.

Soaked through.

Afterword

While many modern udon shops now adopt fashionable or Sanuki elements, I hope longtime favorites like Inaba Udon and “Miyake Udon” keep thriving. If you champion firmness, come try Hakata udon at least once!

This article is based on a visit in 2012.

A little while ago, we held a welcome party for a friend.

The venue was a restaurant called “Hakata Hyotei”.

The place had a great vibe, and they served both live squid sashimi and motsu nabe… which made it an easy choice. But the quality far exceeded our expectations!

Hakata Hyotei – A Refined Entrance Like a Traditional Ryotei

This was the entrance before the move. You could easily miss it if you weren’t looking carefully.

As of 2024, the restaurant has relocated to the Daimyo area, so the entrance and interior are likely different now.

The sign for “Hyotei” was clearly displayed.

A long path leading to the entrance, making it feel like you’re entering a luxurious residence or a traditional ryotei.

Here’s the entrance. It looks so upscale that I wondered if we were even allowed to go in…

I forgot to take photos of the interior, so please check the official website below.

博多 表邸

大名エリアの個室でもつ鍋や九州名物、博多 表邸のオフィシャルページです。お店の基本情報やおすすめの「【黒毛和牛炙り･お造り盛り会席】玄界灘産の鮮魚と黒毛和牛を堪能〜飲み放題120分〜」「【博多 水炊き鍋･お造り盛りコース】博多水炊きや玄界灘...

hakataand.gorp.jp

Beautifully Presented and Delicious Dishes, Including Live Squid Sashimi

We chose a course featuring fresh squid from Yobuko and salt-based motsu nabe, with a 2-hour all-you-can-drink plan for 4,300 yen.

The first dish served was an appetizer and sashimi.
The freshness was obvious at first glance! Enjoyed it with sweet Kyushu-style soy sauce. Delicious!

Live squid sashimi—its body was still transparent and twitching.

A satisfyingly crunchy texture!

What really blew us away was this unexpected delight—tempura made from corn.
Absolutely amazing!

Though a bit blurry, you can see how the kernels were tempura-fried individually.
So sweet and delicious. Worth ordering even if it’s not part of the course.

The squid tentacles were served as tempura, too.
They offered a “black tempura” option made with squid ink batter—so I tried that.

It looked a bit burnt, but it was just regular tempura with a unique appearance.
The sashimi-to-tempura transition was a perfect combo.

Rich Dashi-Flavored Salted Offal Hot Pot, Finished with Champon Noodles

The main dish—salt-based motsu nabe!
Unusually for Fukuoka, this one didn’t include garlic chives.

The vegetables softened nicely—ready to eat.

I wasn’t sure what to expect from “salt motsu nabe,” but it was fantastic.
More than salty—it was full of umami from the dashi.

While soy sauce is the standard for motsu nabe, this salt version had excellent flavor.
And the offal was plump and tender.

Needless to say, the finale was champon noodles!

Hakata Hyotei – A Stylish Spot for Enjoying Fukuoka’s Local Cuisine

I liked it so much I went back with a friend later and ended up spending about 7,000 yen after 4 hours of eating and drinking…
(We did drink quite a bit, and I ordered the chef’s recommended fish without checking the price.)

It was delicious and totally worth it, but if you’re watching your budget, choosing a course meal with a drink plan might be a good idea.

That said, the quality of the food and the refined ambiance make it suitable even for business dinners.

It’s just about a 10-minute walk from Tenjin Station—definitely worth a visit!

I’d been seeing friends post about it on Facebook and was curious for a while. I finally visited recently.


And the result? Mind-blowingly delicious.
Seriously, it’s next level.

Fukuoka has many restaurants where you can enjoy good offal, including motsunabe, but this place is easily among the best.

It’s definitely somewhere I’d want to bring friends visiting from outside the prefecture. A must-visit gem.

Look for the pig-shaped lantern at “Motsuyaki Shiotaya”

“Motsuyaki Shiotaya” is located in Haruyoshi, just south of Tenjin and close to Nakasu.
This area is packed with affordable and tasty eateries, and the restaurant is nestled among them.

A cute pig-shaped lantern marks the entrance. For some reason, there’s also a bus stop-like sign.

A cozy shop with around 10 counter seats.
From the look of the place and the vibe of the chef, you can already tell something tasty is coming.

Apparently, their specialty is “nakami-yaki” (grilled mixed offal).
They also offer popular cuts like small intestines and omasum, and rarer ones like pig brain and beef tongue root — so many tempting options!

Too delicious to describe! Harami and Nakami-yaki are must-eats

A place that doesn’t skimp on the appetizer is always trustworthy. (Says @ushigyu)

No doubt about it.
The sauce on the okra is amazing — light yet rich in umami, and would go well on almost any vegetable.

The senmai (omasum) is super fresh! Crunchy and juicy, and the miso-based sauce (probably) goes perfectly with it.

Perfect with sake — can’t stop drinking.

“Shiro” (pork rectum). Crispy outside, tender inside. The more you chew, the more flavor it releases. What is this sorcery?

This harami (skirt steak) might be the best I’ve ever had. Not just the offal — even the harami is this good?! Scary good.
Also, I love how much green onion they pile on.

No words can do it justice.

Nakami-yaki is here!
A combo of four cuts (small intestine, heart, omasum, tongue) with cabbage, daikon sprouts, and tomato.
Each bite of offal bursts with flavor. The vegetables, soaked in meat juices, taste even sweeter.

And the special dipping sauce? Absolutely divine.
I’m running out of vocabulary to describe this. Just go try it yourself. You’ll understand in your soul, not just in words.

Apparently, you can finish your meal with udon or garlic rice cooked on the fatty iron plate — but I was too full and had to pass, sadly.

There are so many more rare cuts I want to try… I guess I have no choice but to keep coming back!

Final Thoughts

Even in food-rich Fukuoka, it’s rare to find a place where every single dish is crafted with care and tastes absolutely amazing.

It’s a small shop, so I hesitate to cause a crowd, but I feel a sense of duty to blog about this place. You really should try it!

This time, I’d like to introduce one of the most famous udon restaurants in Hakata: Karono Uron.

The name means “Udon shop on the corner.”

In the old Hakata dialect, the “do” sound would become “ro”, which is how the name came about.

It’s a long-established place visited by many tourists, but how is the actual shop and its taste?

Karono Uron – A Historic Udon Shop with a Memorable Frog Illustration

Here’s the exterior of Karono Uron. The illustration of a frog eating udon really stands out and gives off a traditional vibe. The shop was apparently founded in 1882.

There’s a haiku-like phrase written on the front: “Karono uron ya ni wakurou ga sanbiki fukurourottotta gena”…?

Apparently, it translates to something like, “Three toads were crouched at the corner udon shop.”

…Uhh… okay, got it.

Even the menu out front looks vintage.
They even have something like “Mentaiko Udon,” clearly aimed at tourists.
(*Though mentaiko is famous in Fukuoka, locals rarely eat this combo.)

The interior is just as atmospheric as the outside suggests.

The menu shows signs of age too.

There are photos of celebrities who visited…

And a strange poem (?) that says something like, “Mmm, eat up.”

Looks like someone tried to create the shop owner’s face using hiragana from the name—but it’s a bit of a stretch… haha.

You can add as much green onion as you like from the table—a pretty standard feature in Fukuoka.

Simple Yet Delicious Udon, Just as You’d Expect in Hakata

I ordered the Niku Goboten Udon (beef and burdock tempura udon).

Here it comes!

Of course, I added a heap of green onions.

The noodles are soft and chewy, yet surprisingly firm.

Crispy burdock tempura…

And sweet-savory simmered beef.

The broth is flavorful and tasty!

Personally, I wouldn’t say it’s particularly exceptional compared to other udon shops, but it offers that classic “normal but delicious” Fukuoka-style udon. And that’s exactly what makes it good.

Combined with the nostalgic atmosphere inside and out, it definitely feels like a spot that’s become a bit of a tourist attraction.

It’s a great place to experience the everyday flavors of Fukuoka while soaking in the old-school vibes.

(Seems it’s been featured in lots of guidebooks—after I sat down, a group of foreign tourists came in right after.)

Karono Uron Is Now “No Photography Allowed” – But Why?

As of 2025, Karono Uron has a no-photography policy for some reason.

Many customers would want to snap photos of their meals for memories, especially when celebrities’ photos are displayed and TV shows have covered the place—so why the ban?

They may have their reasons, but since the “no photos” rule isn’t explained well, I personally don’t recommend visiting Karono Uron.

There are plenty of other delicious udon places to check out in Fukuoka.

Whenever out-of-town guests ask for mizutaki, this is the place I always take them to.

I recently heard that their second location, the Toriden Hakata Main Branch, opened near Nakasu, behind the Hakataza Theater in the Kawabata area—so of course, I had to check it out.

They’ve fully preserved the flavor of the original Yakuin location, and it’s just as delicious. With Nakasu and Tenjin nearby, it’s a perfect spot to bring visitors. Highly recommended!

Toriden Hakata Main Branch: A Beautiful Restaurant Behind Hakataza in Nakasu Kawabata

Located in a prime spot behind the Hakataza Theater, this is the Toriden Hakata Main Branch.

The first floor has a register and a shop selling takeaway mizutaki. We dined in, so we headed up to the second floor.

The interior has a spacious table seating area, and it seems there are private rooms as well.

Prices are the same as the Yakuin location: 2,800 yen per person for mizutaki. Ordering a course menu (Plum or Bamboo) is more cost-effective than ordering à la carte.

We went with the Plum Course, and even for me as a man, it was plenty of food. (Refills on cabbage, carrots, and enoki mushrooms are free.)
If you want to try extras like sesame mackerel and chicken tempura, go for the Bamboo Course.

Mizutaki Full of Chicken Umami, Recommended for Everyone

First came two appetizers (flavored soft-boiled egg with meat miso, and seasoned shimeji mushrooms) and torisashi (lightly seared chicken sashimi).
All were delicious and paired wonderfully with sake. It built great anticipation for the mizutaki ahead.

With mizutaki, you start by sipping the soup.

The broth is made by simmering whole chicken with only water and salt for 6–7 hours. The chicken flavor is intensely rich—just as good as always!

If you want a stronger flavor, add Goto Sea salt or their homemade yuzu pepper paste.

After the soup, it’s time for the main dish. Bone-in chicken, chicken fillet, and green onions.

The chicken is tender and juicy, with perfectly balanced seasoning. Their rich ponzu sauce and yuzu pepper complement it beautifully. Unless you dislike chicken entirely, you’ll love this.

Next, we added chicken meatballs, tofu, and vegetables.

The veggies were super fresh, and the meatballs contained bits of cartilage, giving a nice texture.

Look at the color of that rich soup! Each round of chicken, meatballs, and veggies makes it even more flavorful. You’ll want to drink it to the last drop.

The wide selection of Fukuoka sake pairs perfectly with the meal—too easy to keep drinking.

For the final dish, you can choose either ramen or rice porridge.

Even if you’re full, it goes down easily.

The soup is lightly seasoned at first, so if you prefer a bolder flavor, add salt or ponzu to taste.

Final Thoughts

Now that it’s within walking distance of Nakasu and Tenjin, I’m sure I’ll be bringing more guests here again and again.

Hakata isn’t just about ramen, mentaiko, or motsunabe. Mizutaki is a truly delicious specialty.
It’s not just a simple chicken hotpot—it’s a refined dish with deep flavor.

If you’re ever in Fukuoka, don’t miss the chance to try it!

Although it’s a local dish, unlike ramen, motsunabe, yakitori, or seafood, it’s surprisingly hard to find restaurants that serve a proper mizutaki course starting with a rich broth.
(This is just a personal impression—not based on statistics.)

Today I’d like to introduce one of those rare places: “Torizen Nishinakasu Bekkan,” located in the bustling Nakasu area of Fukuoka.

You can enjoy delicious mizutaki in a lovely setting with views of the Nakagawa River right outside the window!

A Hidden Mizutaki Spot in Nishinakasu: Torizen Nishinakasu Bekkan

Torizen Nishinakasu Bekkan is located in the Nishinakasu area, just before you cross the bridge into Nakasu.

Enter a narrow alley just wide enough for one car, and you’ll find the entrance—a true hidden gem.

Inside, there are counter seats facing the river, table seating, and private tatami rooms. The clientele tends to be a bit older compared to places in Tenjin.
You might spot businessmen with flashy companions—or maybe not.

Start your meal with the classic—vinegared offal.

Followed by a salad with prosciutto.

After nibbling on chicken wings and sipping some drinks, it’s time to order the mizutaki.

Sip the broth, enjoy the chicken, savor the vegetables—this is Hakata-style Mizutaki.

Here it comes—mizutaki hot pot! You can tell from the color that the broth is rich with flavor.
(Some places use clear broths, so it depends on the style.)

A staff member in a kimono will first serve you the broth.
Pictured: “Oh, you’re taking a photo?” “Oh, sorry!”

Add salt to taste and enjoy the soup…

Then move on to the chicken, served with house-made ponzu for a refreshing taste.

Next comes tsukune (chicken meatballs),

And then vegetables—the classic progression of a Hakata-style mizutaki course.

We were too busy chatting and drinking to take many photos, but it was absolutely delicious—the kind of flavor that makes you go, “Yes! This is it!”

To finish, rice is added to the broth to make a comforting porridge, soaking up all that chicken flavor.

Final Thoughts

There are a few other mizutaki places around Nakasu, but this one stands out with its lovely atmosphere and balance of flavors—perfect even for bringing a date.

Of course, it’s also great for entertaining guests in general and easy to move on to the next spot afterward.

I’ve been to a few other Torizen locations, but this Nishinakasu branch has been my favorite so far. Highly recommended!

One of them is the “Hakata Taki-niku Nabe” (Hakata braised meat hot pot) from a restaurant called Kintsuta.

This restaurant was also featured on “Onigiri Atatememasu ka?” (Would you like your rice ball heated?), a popular Hokkaido local TV show hosted by Hiroshi Oizumi, and recently opened a branch in Roppongi as well.

The appearance resembling a meat donut or caldera has outstanding visual impact. Of course, the taste is outstanding too!

Kintsuta in Haruyoshi Near Fukuoka’s Tenjin – A Restaurant with Retro Atmosphere

Kintsuta is located in Haruyoshi, one of the areas in Fukuoka where particularly delicious restaurants gather, close to Tenjin.

The entrance has a slightly retro feel with a hidden gem-like atmosphere.

With the feeling of visiting someone’s home, we entered.

The interior maintains the same good atmosphere as the exterior suggests. The service is also impressive, offering small drinks during wait times.

We were seated at a table that was stylish yet surprisingly didn’t feel intimidating.

Calm indirect lighting.

Even the lacquered chopsticks somehow look stylish.

First things first – beer! Beer! The foam is fine and delicious, showing that the server is properly maintained.

We ordered a course meal on this day, and the first dish was an assortment of 5 appetizers.

The colorful appetizers made both food and drink go down smoothly.

Bite-sized meat-wrapped rice balls – delicious. But the main course is yet to come.

Breaking Down the Meat Caldera – Exquisite Taki-niku Nabe with Tail Soup & Sauce!

This is the main Hakata Taki-niku Nabe! This impact that you rarely see elsewhere. Like a meat donut or caldera.

There are 5 types of meat available: Kuroge Wagyu beef, Kuroge Wagyu triangle cut, Kagoshima black pork, Agu pork, and Imari beef sirloin, and you can choose your preferred combination.
This time we chose triangle cut and black pork. This vivid red color, the appetite-inducing meat visual…!

There are two types of sauce: tomato-based and beef tail soup-based.

Plus spicy plum miso and plum pepper to taste.

In the center, tail soup that took 2 days to prepare bubbles away, and you add the meat here before eating. It’s also fun to break down the mountain and add it to the soup.

When it’s cooked to the right degree,

Dip it in the sauce!

Let’s eat!!

Perhaps to let you taste the umami of the meat, the sauce flavor isn’t too strong. However, it has a solid richness that combines beautifully with the meat’s sweetness. Green onions are built into the meat mountain, providing a crispy texture as well.
There’s no way this combination could be wrong.

When dipped in the tomato-based sauce, it becomes more refreshing. While eating a lot of meat can sometimes become heavy and cause indigestion, with such refreshing and light sauce, you can keep going indefinitely.

Finish with Flat Noodles or Risotto to Enjoy Every Bit of the Beef’s Umami

After thoroughly enjoying the meat and drinks, we realized it had come to this state. Did we really eat that entire mountain…?
But we weren’t stuffed or uncomfortable at all – it went down smoothly. I think even two women could probably handle it.

It’s a bit hard to see, but finally we have hand-beaten flat noodles that absorb plenty of the soup. Apparently risotto is also available as an option.

The finale of hot pot is rice or noodles that have absorbed and concentrated the broth and ingredients. This is a well-established principle.

Even the final dessert was delicious.

Conclusion

It’s a restaurant with a great atmosphere and visual impact, so it would be perfect for dates or taking clients. I think it would work for girls’ nights out too, but groups of men might stand out a bit lol.

If you’re in Fukuoka, definitely visit the Haruyoshi location, and if you’re in the Tokyo area, check out the Roppongi branch!

While Kurume City is famous for it, Fukuoka City also has yakitori restaurants everywhere, each offering creatively prepared skewers.
One characteristic feature is that pork belly is standard at yakitori restaurants.
(I was shocked when I saw restaurants called “yakiton” in Tokyo…)

One of the famous yakitori restaurants is “Torikawa Suikyo.”

I had never been there despite its reputation, but I finally went to eat there the other day!

We arrived!
Torikawa Suikyo has a total of 2 locations in Fukuoka City – in Kiyokawa and Yakuin. This time we came to the Yakuin branch.

When we arrived after 6 PM, no one was there, including the members we were supposed to drink with…
But it was packed within 30 minutes. As expected from a popular restaurant.
The counter on the first floor was also bustling.

The yakitori menu.

First and foremost, we had to order the signature chicken skin (torikawa).
The first 5 people ordered 50 skewers! 10 skewers per person is the default!

At Fukuoka yakitori restaurants, it’s customary to first serve cabbage.
This one unusually doesn’t have sauce on it, so you can eat it with the yakitori or enjoy it with salt or yuzu kosho as you like.

And this is Torikawa Suikyo’s signature chicken skin!
It’s completely different from what most people would imagine – the fatty, soft, sauce-glazed type.
This is a unique preparation where it’s grilled multiple times to remove the fat and finished to a crispy texture.

The seasoning is light on its own, so it’s delicious when eaten with yuzu kosho.
The texture combined with the taste pairs perfectly with beer!

Darum (pork intestines).
Seasoned with vinegar and has a crunchy texture. Delicious.

Chicken breast shigi-yaki (seared style). The inside is rare, and wasabi soy sauce is a perfect match.
Personally, this was my biggest hit!

Seseri (chicken neck meat), and

Shishito peppers.

Crispy mountain yam!

Grilled garlic.

Pig’s feet. It doesn’t look appetizing, but it’s incredibly tender and delicious.

Tomato wrap. You can enjoy it as is for a refreshing taste, or add spiciness with three types of Tabasco.

Cheese wrap.

I just realized we didn’t eat pork belly!
Also, apparently you can get chicken soup to finish the meal, but since we stayed until near closing time, I forgot about it – that’s my regret… I’ll definitely try it next time.

How about experiencing Fukuoka’s food culture of yakitori, which people from outside the prefecture surprisingly don’t know much about, at Torikawa Suikyo? It’s delicious!

The beef tongue restaurant “Tanca” that I’m introducing today is one of them.
(Despite saying “hidden gem,” it’s actually quite a famous restaurant, but please overlook that…)

The specialty is “Beef Tongue Shabu-Shabu.” It features a smooth, melt-in-your-mouth texture created by aging rare tongue base cuts using a unique method. It’s tender and rich in umami, yet not greasy and refreshing.

It’s amazing when enjoyed with crispy green onions and the special Japanese broth sauce.

The finishing fried rice is so good that they opened a specialized “Fried Rice King” restaurant in Tokyo. Drizzle it with the special vinegar soy sauce for a completely different flavor experience.

While beef tongue used to give me the impression of being just the opening act for yakiniku, I was moved by how delicious properly prepared good beef tongue can be when eaten as shabu-shabu. You should definitely visit at least once!

Access and Basic Information for “Tanca Main Store”

The main store of “Tanca” is located in Kiyokawa, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka City.

It takes a little over 20 minutes on foot from both Tenjin and Hakata Station, so it’s better to use a bus or taxi.

The closest subway station is Watanabe-dori Station on the Nanakuma Line, but it’s still about a 10-minute walk from there.

From the nearest bus stop “Takasago,” it’s just a 2-minute walk.

If you don’t mind not going to the main store, there are branch locations in both Tenjin and Hakata Station areas, so you could visit those instead.
All are popular restaurants, so making a reservation is recommended.

Tenjin Tanca (@tenjin_tanca) • Instagram Photos and Videos

Hakata Tanca | Store Details, Access, Business Hours – Tanca/TANCA

【Basic Information for Tanca Kiyokawa Main Store】

Tanca Main Store Menu: Grilled Beef Tongue, Tongue Shabu-shabu, and Fried Rice Are Must-Orders

Located down a side street from Watanabe-dori, Tanca Kiyokawa Main Store has a small sign and entrance, giving it a calm impression.

There were people waiting, but since we had a reservation, we were able to enter smoothly.

The interior has counter seating and about 3-4 table seats. However, there seemed to be a second floor as well, so there are likely more seats.

When you come to Tanca, the first thing you want to order is Grilled Beef Tongue (1,848 yen).
You’d also want to try grilled sagari and grilled tail, but if you’re planning to eat tongue shabu-shabu, you’ll need to consult with your stomach capacity.

The special tongue shabu-shabu is 2,500 yen. This is a must-order!
I’d like to try the motsunabe (offal hot pot) too, but it would require the courage to not order tongue shabu-shabu, so I haven’t been able to try it yet…

The à la carte menu is also extensive, so it’s nice to drink while nibbling on various dishes (if there’s space).

Alongside tongue shabu-shabu, another must-order is the signature fried rice (759 yen).
While there are many things you’d like to try, I recommend saving stomach space for the finishing fried rice!

Savoring the Umami-Packed Grilled Beef Tongue

First, beer! Served in Tanca’s original mug with a cow with a big tongue printed on it.
The appetizer is a vinegared dish of beef offal and vegetables, which stimulates the appetite for the meat to come.

The first dish to arrive was beef tongue menchi katsu, 2 pieces for 660 yen.

The inside is 100% juicy beef tongue. The outside has a crispy coating, and the original tomato sauce is of surprisingly high quality. Delicious.

One of the absolutely must-order menu items when you come to Tanca – Grilled Beef Tongue!
It comes with pickles and light vinegar soy sauce, plus karashi (Japanese mustard), regular mustard, and wasabi (which I forgot to photograph).

While it has a nice chewy texture, it’s very tender. It contains aged, concentrated fat, and with each bite, the umami of the beef tongue gradually overflows. This is delicious. Irresistible.

Grilled beef tail. The sensation is similar to pig’s feet, with plenty of fat and collagen, making it soft.
It’s been thoroughly braised so it falls off the bone effortlessly. It pairs excellently with the light sauce and mustard.

The Smooth Tongue Shabu-shabu Has Excellent Compatibility with Japanese Broth – Can Only Be Described as Incredibly Delicious

After finishing what was too luxurious a menu for a warm-up, it was finally time to order today’s main dish – beef tongue shabu-shabu.
A tabletop burner was set up, and a beautiful arrangement of beef tongue, vegetables, and the pot were brought out.

Cherry-colored beef tongue with fine marbling. It looks absolutely delicious…!

On a separate plate are green onions, mizuna greens, tofu, young corn to eat with the beef tongue, plus chopped green onions and grated daikon radish for the ponzu.

The sauces are ponzu and special Japanese broth. The Japanese broth is recommended.

Following the server’s instructions, first put in the tofu and young corn, which take longer to cook.
Then add the green onions and beef tongue, and when they look good, eat the tongue and green onions together.

Wrap the green onion with the beef tongue, dip it in the Japanese broth… here we go!!

The very smooth silk tongue has a proper texture yet is tender.
The compatibility between the tongue’s umami and the Japanese broth is outstanding – I can only describe it as absolutely delicious. Who knew beef tongue could become this delicious?

Dipping it in ponzu makes it even more refreshing. This is also undeniably delicious.
But it can’t quite match the pairing with the Japanese broth.

For the finish at Tanca, there’s really only one option – fried rice!

It’s incredibly delicious on its own, but adding the fried rice sauce on the table creates a nice flavor change.
The menu’s recommended eating method says “add it after eating half,” but it’s up to your preference.

I even had the golden tail soup to accompany the finish. I’m completely full.

Tanca’s Tongue Shabu-shabu Can Be Ordered Nationwide!

Can’t make it to Fukuoka but want to eat tongue shabu-shabu!

For such people, Tanca apparently sells take-out beef tongue shabu-shabu sets nationwide.

A set for two people includes beef tongue, green onions, sauce, finishing udon (not available in the restaurant), and even fried rice for 6,980 yen.
However, it seems to be popular and not always available for purchase – they apparently sell it every Sunday starting at 10:00 AM.

たんか/TANCA｜牛タンしゃぶしゃぶ｜通販・お取り寄せ

福岡の牛タン専門店「たんか」の公式オンラインストア。国産の熟成シルクタンを使った牛タンしゃぶしゃぶが人気。ご家庭でも簡単にお召し上がりいただけるよう、だしや酢醤油、締めの麺や焼きめしをセットにしました。牛タンしゃぶしゃぶの通販・お取り寄せ・...

tanca.jp

In addition to beef tongue shabu-shabu, they also have harami (skirt steak) shabu-shabu, motsunabe, yakiniku, and à la carte dish sets.

I’m thinking of trying to order take-out when I can’t visit the restaurant.

“Tanca” is a Famous Restaurant Worth Visiting

This is a restaurant I’d recommend not only to Fukuoka residents but also to people visiting Fukuoka for travel or business.

Grilled beef tongue, beef tongue shabu-shabu, and fried rice are essential, so please don’t forget to order just those!

Did you know that these two are operated by the same company?


The company is run by the son of the owner of “Daruma,” a ramen shop that operated in Hakozaki, Higashi Ward, where I often ate during my student days.

The son created “Hidechan Ramen” with the intention of surpassing his father, and “Hakata Daruma” was opened in a different location to carry on the taste of the original “Daruma,” which closed around 2000 due to road expansion.

• Reference (external link): vol.34 Hakata Daruma Ramen Kawahara Hideto | Ramen East and West | Chikara no Moto News

Now, about the main topic – Hidechan Ramen. This place is famous in my mind as a shop with dramatic flavor changes.

When I first went there around 2003 during my student days, my impression was “It’s super rich with a layer of fat on top, but incredibly delicious!”
But the next time I went, I thought “It’s just greasy and not tasty at all.”
※I’m not sure if it was my taste buds or if the flavor actually varied. This is just my personal opinion.

When I went back to eat there around 2012 or 2013 after becoming independent and returning to Fukuoka, for some reason it had become a shop staffed only by female employees, and the service and atmosphere were very impressive.
But the crucial ramen tasted different from before and wasn’t delicious at all… I want to praise shops with good service as much as possible, but with the high prices, this was tough…


Despite these experiences, when I moved relatively nearby, I decided to try Hidechan again without learning my lesson. The flavor might have changed again, after all.

This article is a report from that visit.

Visiting the Main Store of Hidechan Ramen in Chuo Ward, Fukuoka City

I visited the main store and original location of Hidechan Ramen in Kego, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka City. It’s located one street in from Kokutai Road, with such an inconspicuous exterior that you couldn’t find it without knowing where it is.
(Though there was a standing signboard at the time)

The interior is compact with just an L-shaped counter and one small table. So this is where it all began.

There are also many celebrity autographs. As expected, they appear to be nationally famous celebrities rather than just local ones.

Though not visible in the photo, there was a notice saying “We’ve returned to our original founding flavor,” confirming that the taste had indeed changed. I don’t know which point they returned to, but surely it must taste better than last time…!

A bowl of ramen costs 700 yen, which is quite an aggressive price for a Fukuoka ramen shop. This must be what comes with being a famous establishment.
You can also change to gluten-free noodles for an additional 50 yen. Since gluten can cause allergies in some people and there’s also something called a gluten-free diet, they seem to be catering to such customers as well.

Since I visited on a weekday afternoon, I ordered the daily lunch set.

As part of Kumamoto disaster relief support, they also had Kumamoto-style ramen with black garlic oil and spicy mustard greens. Hidechan Ramen apparently also participated in providing meals after the earthquake.

Sharp Soy Sauce-Based Tonkotsu Soup – It Had Become Delicious

The daily lunch set includes ramen, rice, and another dish (twice-cooked pork on this day). It’s voluminous and feels like too many carbs, but I don’t care! I’ll exercise!

The visual impression was different from both the fat-layered ramen from about 13 years ago and the all-female staff version from my previous visit.

It appears to have pepper sprinkled on top beforehand.

Let me try the soup. Hmm… I see.

While it’s sometimes described as having a rich, thick soup, in my opinion, this soup is characterized by its prominent soy sauce tare.
While it certainly has tonkotsu broth, it’s almost the complete opposite of the strongly pork bone-flavored, potage-like soups you find at places like Kurume Ramen or Genki Ippai.

Since it has less of the distinctive pork bone flavor, I think it’s the type of taste that’s less likely to polarize opinions, making it more accessible to tourists from across Japan and overseas.
Personally, it tasted much better than what I remembered.

The chashu is ordinary, and considering the volume, I still think 700 yen is too expensive, but this made me think I could casually drop by when I get a ramen craving.

Conclusion

Hidechan’s ramen has undergone at least two major transformations in my memory.
When I went in August 2016, I was able to enjoy it as a normal, tasty meal.

Will it undergo further changes?
I’ll likely continue to visit regularly when I want ramen in this area, and also to check for any flavor changes.