This time, I’d like to introduce you to Mutsugoro, one of the most renowned restaurants in downtown Kumamoto City.


This establishment serves not only horse sashimi but also an extensive lineup of horse meat dishes, along with seafood, karashi renkon (spicy lotus root), hitomoji guruguru, and other Kumamoto local cuisine and sake.

If you’re thinking “I want to eat something delicious in Kumamoto,” you can’t go wrong by choosing this place!

Mutsugoro: A Renowned Horse Meat Restaurant Near Kumamoto Castle

Mutsugoro is located in Hanabatacho, in the heart of Kumamoto City, close to Kumamoto Castle and City Hall.

This was April 30th, when traces of the earthquake were still quite visible in Kumamoto City. The stairs were unusable, so we could only use the elevator.
Nearly three months have passed since then, so it should be fully restored by now.

Basement level 1, here it is!

I entered shortly after 5 PM, just after opening time, but customers were already starting to arrive.

At the front, there are many photos and Kumamon glasses. Very Kumamoto indeed.

With daily fresh fish specials, various horse meat dishes, and local cuisine, it’s hard to choose. The rice they use is, of course, Kumamoto-grown “Mori no Kumasan.” What an adorable brand name.

While basashi (horse sashimi) and koune (horse neck meat) can occasionally be found in other prefectures, here you’ll find unusual items like “tongue sashimi” and “heart sashimi,” as well as dishes you wouldn’t normally make with horse meat, such as “braised offal” and “bite-sized cutlets.”

Look up and there’s another horse meat menu list! Everything sounds intriguing… “horse brain,” “grilled horse root”…

That said, I can’t eat too much by myself, so for this first visit, I ordered the classic horse sashimi.

Kumamoto’s Horse Meat is Truly Delicious! Local Dishes That Pair Perfectly With Sake

I enjoyed the appetizer while waiting.

I started with beer. The mug was nicely chilled. Cheers!

The horse sashimi arrived right away! Wait, the basashi I’ve seen at other restaurants looks much redder…
When I asked the staff, they said, “We use carefully selected delicious cuts of horse meat.” I see.

I dipped it in soy sauce mixed with ginger and garlic, and took a bite.
Wow, the rich fat gives it such depth, and the more you chew, the more umami flavors flood out!

If regular restaurant basashi is like lean tuna, this is like eating medium or fatty tuna.
Of course, there are cuts available for those who prefer less fat. With such an extensive menu, there’s something for everyone.


This is a dish with the unusual name “hitomoji guruguru,” a local Kumamoto specialty made by rolling up the region’s famous green onions and serving them with vinegar miso sauce.
The crispy textured onions are refreshing with the vinegar miso. So delicious.

At this point, I couldn’t resist moving on to sake. Naturally, I chose from Kumamoto’s local selection.

Junmai Ginjo “Taito” – I choose you!

During this time, customers kept arriving steadily, and within about 30 minutes, the restaurant was nearly full.
If you want to be sure to get in, making a reservation seems advisable.

To finish, I had bajiru (horse meat soup). Simply put, it’s the horse meat version of pork miso soup, and it’s incredibly delicious!
The tender, fall-apart horse meat inside, the flavorful soup rich with dashi and miso. Rich yet gentle, a taste I could eat every day.

Final Thoughts

Since I came alone and had other restaurants I wanted to visit, I couldn’t eat much, but it was a wonderful establishment in terms of both food and service.
Next time, I want to come with a large group and try all the different horse meat dishes! The fish dishes look intriguing too.

This is an absolute must-visit restaurant when you come to Kumamoto!

It is designated as both a Japanese and Global Geopark, and the surrounding area is home to some of Japan’s most renowned hot spring towns, along with delicious local specialties such as Akaushi beef, horse meat, and takana pickles. It’s a major travel destination packed with natural and culinary attractions.

One of the absolute must-dos in Aso is a scenic drive through its incredible viewpoints. You’ll witness majestic mountains and calderas you won’t find anywhere else.

I recently visited Aso, and although the weather wasn’t perfect, I still got to enjoy its impressive views.

So in this post, I’ll introduce three scenic viewpoints you absolutely must visit in Aso!

① Daikanbo

Without a doubt the most famous viewpoint in Aso, Daikanbo is located to the north of Mt. Aso. It takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes by car from Kumamoto City and around 2 hours from Fukuoka City.

Despite visiting on a weekday afternoon in April, the place was quite crowded—no surprise for such a popular tourist spot.

Many motorcyclists also stopped by while touring.

Near the parking lot, there are souvenir shops and tea stalls. From there, it’s a short uphill walk to the main viewing area.

It looks long in the photo, but the distance is totally manageable—don’t worry!

Welcome to Daikanbo!

The boxed area in the photo below is the prime viewpoint.

From here, you can see the vast caldera created by ancient volcanic activity. It’s incredible!
While there are larger calderas in places like Hokkaido and around the world, it’s rare to find such a well-developed settlement inside one.

Although the sky was cloudy and hazy that day, the scenery was still breathtaking.

Daikanbo is a fantastic scenic spot just 2 hours from Fukuoka.

In April, the landscape still has a muted color, but it will soon turn lush and green heading into summer.

② Mt. Aso Ropeway

The Mt. Aso Ropeway once carried visitors close to the crater area. However, due to increased volcanic activity as of 2015, operations are suspended and only the Aso West Station is accessible.

This faded tea house adds a nostalgic touch. The volcanic ash all around is a reminder of the mountain’s raw power.

Roads were closed off. As curious as I was, staying safe is more important!

There’s even a small police box by the parking lot.

As in many parts of Aso, large groups of Asian tourists were arriving by bus. While manners are sometimes a concern, it’s great to see more people discovering Japan.

I stopped by the inner shrine at Aso Shrine to pay respects.

The combination of withered vegetation and ash-colored slopes gave the area a stark, almost apocalyptic look. I’d like to return when it’s safer to view the crater, but even this scene was unforgettable.

Even the shrine grounds were blanketed in ash.

The waiting room resembled an abandoned building.

The ropeway terminal, now out of service.

Inside, souvenir shops and eateries remained open. I even tried the “volcanic ash soft serve”!

③ Kabuto Rock Observatory

Compared to the previous two spots, Kabuto Rock Observatory is more of a hidden gem. It’s located northwest of Mt. Aso.

The area includes a parking lot, restrooms, and a small shop.

This road across the street leads to the viewpoint.

The name comes from a nearby peak said to resemble a samurai helmet. It’s introduced alongside Daikanbo as a top viewpoint.

Once again, you’re treated to sweeping views of Aso’s caldera and mountain range.

You could stand here forever and never get bored. Next time, I hope for sunny skies.

Nearby, the shop is a bit unusual—they sell Frankfurt sausages that won a gold medal in a German competition…

…alongside souvenirs, handicrafts, and even imported goods like shirts and accessories. Why here in Aso? Perhaps it’s the owner’s personal taste.

Final Thoughts

I’ve only introduced three spots here, but Aso is full of scenic locations. Honestly, every road you drive in Aso could be called a scenic route—it’s that stunning.

You can reach it from Fukuoka by rental car in just two hours. With amazing views, tasty food, and soothing hot springs, Aso is a must-visit travel destination!

While it gained some attention when the following tweet went viral, it’s still fair to call it a hidden gem.

People who like shrines should definitely visit Kamishikimi Kumano Imasu Shrine in Minami-Aso
It’s literally another world pic.twitter.com/qgHmIRwoue

— すてぃっく🐑 (@stick_oarai) April 15, 2018

By the way, “上色見熊野座神社” is read not as “kamishikimi kumano-za jinja” but as “Kamishikimi Kumano Imasu Jinja.”

※Even Kumamoto Prefecture’s tourism site sometimes uses the “kumano-za” reading, but the correct reading is apparently “kumano imasu”

As you can see from the tweet above, this is an unusual place that looks better on cloudy or rainy days.

Although it was unfortunately (?) sunny when I visited, the approach path winding through moss-covered lanterns and dense trees still had an outstanding atmosphere.

This is definitely one of the spots you should visit when traveling to the Minami-Aso region.

Access and Basic Information for Kamishikimi Kumano Imasu Shrine

Kamishikimi Kumano Imasu Shrine is located on the southeast side of Mount Aso.

While I wrote “Minami-Aso” in the title, it’s actually located in Takamori Town, Aso County.

While you’ll notice it immediately when heading to the shrine, if you’re driving, you should aim for the following free parking lot.
There was space for quite a few cars, so it should be available unless it’s peak season.

By car, it’s about 1.5 hours from central Kumamoto City, or about 2.5 hours from central Fukuoka City.

【Basic Information for Kamishikimi Kumano Imasu Shrine】

Walking Through Dense Trees and Moss-Covered Lanterns on the Path to Kamishikimi Kumano Imasu Shrine

The entrance to Kamishikimi Kumano Imasu Shrine is located along the national highway, across from Iromi Post Office.

Pass between the guardian lion-dogs and enter the approach path lined with lanterns and dense trees.

Even on sunny days, the path is quite dim, blocked by the trees.

All the surrounding trees are tall, with leaves growing only at the top.
This creates the unique landscape.

Halfway up the approach on the left is a water basin… or rather a purification area. Wash your hands and continue forward.

The moss-covered lanterns really add character to the scene.

Along the way, there are places where tree roots are exposed on the path. On rainy days, the stairs themselves become slippery, so be careful not to trip or fall.

The view when looking back is also quite atmospheric.

The View in Front of the Main Hall, Where Trees, Torii Gates, and Lanterns Create a Scene You Must See

After walking for a while, a torii gate appeared. This is the second one after the entrance. It looks as if it’s being guarded by the lanterns.

This area is probably the best photo spot at Kamishikimi Kumano Imasu Shrine, so take your time if you want to get good photos.
An angle showing the main hall through the torii gate is also recommended.

Once you pass through the torii gate, you can finally see the main hall. The density of lanterns increases dramatically, as if for the final sprint.

Arrived at the main hall. There are no people, just a simple building with ordinary fortune-telling slips.
After properly paying respects, we head back.

Apparently, further behind this main hall is the large wind cave “Ugeto Rock” that the demon Onihachi Hoshi is said to have kicked through.

I didn’t know about this at the time of my visit and returned without seeing it. I’ll have to go see that next time.

On the way back. The approach in front of the main hall, with its rows of lanterns, makes for particularly photogenic angles.

It’s also what you’d call a power spot.

Conclusion

While the photos make it look like a long journey, it’s actually about a 30-minute round trip course, even when taking photos.
Since there are many great hot springs, accommodations, and tourist spots in the surrounding area, plus scenic drives to enjoy, it’s perfect to incorporate into your itinerary.

It’s also nice that you can get better photos when the weather is bad, so even on less-than-perfect weather days, you can still enjoy it.

It’s fun to worship while exploring the mystical atmosphere and looking for angles to take beautiful photos!

It’s actually a massive banyan tree within Nishihira Tsubaki Park, and due to the way its sprawling roots and branches seem to engulf huge rocks, it’s been nicknamed the “Laputa Tree,” as it resembles the ancient tree from *Castle in the Sky*.

Though it’s over two hours from Kumamoto City by car, the view alone makes it worth the trip.

I’m usually not the type to get excited about “power spots,” but if any place truly radiates that kind of energy, it’s this one. It genuinely felt like I received a dose of life force just by being there.

How to Get to the Laputa Tree (Nishihira Tsubaki Park)

The Laputa Tree is the local nickname for a large banyan tree found within Nishihira Tsubaki Park in Amakusa City, Kumamoto Prefecture.

So when setting your GPS or map app, search for “Nishihira Tsubaki Park” as your destination.

There’s no access via train or bus, so your only options are by car, motorcycle, or on foot.

Located on the western edge of Amakusa, it takes about 2 hours and 40 minutes by car from Kumamoto City. From Oniike Port (where ferries from Nagasaki arrive), it’s about 60 minutes, and it’s also about 60 minutes from Amakusa Airport, which connects to Fukuoka and Kumamoto.

Please drive carefully—the roads leading to Nishihira Tsubaki Park are very narrow, and it can be tough for two cars to pass each other.

Reaching the Remote Nishihira Tsubaki Park at the Edge of Amakusa

After navigating a series of narrow roads barely wide enough for two cars, I finally arrived at Nishihira Tsubaki Park, on the far west edge of Amakusa.

The entrance sits on an elevated spot, offering spectacular views. The contrast of lush green and vivid blue is simply stunning.

I visited on April 2nd. The cherry blossoms were past their peak but still in bloom.

There aren’t many trees, but they’re beautiful. Definitely worth visiting during sakura season—just be cautious driving those roads!

Behind the restroom area stands a large sacred rock wrapped with shimenawa rope. It’s literally called the “Great Rock of Nishihira Tsubaki Park.”

The Majestic and Lively Banyan Tree, Known as the Laputa Tree

The path to the Laputa Tree starts near this sign. This area is also listed among Japan’s 100 best sunset spots. The Laputa Tree lies just beyond.

After descending for a few minutes, I spotted this sign pointing toward the giant banyan (Laputa Tree). I initially thought the tree was 150 meters away, but that was the viewpoint. The tree itself? You can already see it right there!

And here it is—the giant banyan tree wrapping around an enormous rock. You can see its scale compared to the person standing nearby. Absolutely jaw-dropping.

I stood next to it for scale—massive doesn’t even begin to describe it.

Its branches and roots spread out in every direction, radiating pure vitality.

I couldn’t find the perfect still from Ghibli’s *Castle in the Sky*, but do these two images help capture the atmosphere?

The roots extend as if trying to grasp and absorb the massive, jagged rocks—giving off a post-apocalyptic vibe. That’s likely why it’s been compared to the tree from Laputa.

Final Thoughts

Amakusa in Kumamoto is not only rich in natural beauty but also known for its delicious food.

Though it’s a bit off the beaten path, the Laputa Tree in Nishihira Tsubaki Park is a unique and powerful sight—well worth adding to your travel plans. I’m truly glad I made the trip!

Connected to Kyushu mainland by bridges, it can be accessed by car. Additionally, a ferry is available from Shimabara in Nagasaki Prefecture.

Although Amakusa is an island, it is probably much larger than many people imagine.

The two main islands of Amakusa, “Shimoshima (574.98 km²)” and “Ueshima (225.95 km²),” together exceed the size of Awaji Island (592.51 km²) and even Tokyo’s 23 wards (627.53 km²).

Amakusa is rich in delicious food, including fresh seafood such as sea urchins and octopuses, as well as premium meats like Amakusa Daio chicken, Amakusa Black Beef, and Amakusa Ume Pork. Amakusa Champon is also a must-try local specialty.

In this article, we introduce one of the many accommodations in Amakusa, “Amakusa Tenku no Fune.”

A resort hotel with stunning views of Amakusa, where every room features a private open-air bath on the terrace, offering both an incredible view and a sense of openness.

The hotel also serves delicious dishes made with local ingredients, making it one of the top accommodations recommended for those planning a trip to Kyushu!

(Photos by my other website ushigyu.net)

Access & Basic Information for Amakusa Tenku no Fune

“Amakusa Tenku no Fune” is located right after crossing the bridge from the Kyushu mainland into Amakusa.

As mentioned earlier, Amakusa is quite large, but Tenku no Fune is situated near the entrance of Amakusa from Kyushu, making it relatively easy to access.

From Kumamoto City, it takes about 1 to 1.5 hours by car. From Fukuoka City, the drive takes around 2.5 to 3 hours.

It is possible to reach the hotel via bus and a short walk from Kumamoto Station or Uto Station, but since it takes a considerable amount of time, using a rental car or driving is highly recommended.

【Basic Information for Tenku no Fune】

Blog Review of Tenku no Fune Stay

Tenku no Fune: A Resort Hotel Shaped Like a Ship

Located just past the final bridge of the Amakusa Five Bridges, Matsushima Bridge (Bridge No. 5), “Tenku no Fune” sits atop a small hill.

As its name suggests, the hotel features a unique design inspired by the shape of a ship.

The view from the bow of the ship-shaped building is simply breathtaking. Since the hotel is situated on a hill with no tall buildings around, you can enjoy spectacular scenery from every angle.

From the outside, the hotel has an impressive structure. The area near the bow with the best views is actually a restaurant where guests can enjoy dinner and breakfast while taking in the scenery.

Although we only had a quick glance, there was also a terrace with a pool, providing a perfect spot to relax.

From the grounds of Tenku no Fune, which sits on an elevated location, the sunset is also stunning.

Checking the Room Interior and Amenities

After checking in, we headed to the accommodation wing, which is separate from the main reception building.

We stayed in the Bridge View Double room.
The living space, complete with a sofa and TV, opens directly onto the terrace, offering a panoramic view of Amakusa.

The bed is a spacious 200×200 cm king size. The indoor area is 39㎡, and the terrace is 21㎡.

The room is designed for an open and airy feel, allowing guests to enjoy the view even from the bed.

Let’s check out the room’s amenities.

A coffee maker (Nescafe Dolce Gusto), an electric kettle, and glasses with bottled water for two.

A mini-fridge stocked with complimentary beverages.

A Blu-ray disc player and a music player are also provided.

Bathrobes, a safe, and slippers.

Toilet facilities.
The hotel opened in 2013, but despite nearly a decade having passed, the bathroom remains impeccably clean.

Sink and amenities.

The bathtub is exclusively in the outdoor open-air bath on the terrace, with direct access from the indoor shower room.

Stunning Terrace Views and Open-Air Bath

One of the biggest highlights of each room at Tenku no Fune is undoubtedly the terrace with a spectacular view and an open-air bath.

Whether lounging or soaking in the bath, the scenery is simply breathtaking.

Since Tenku no Fune is built on a hill, you get an expansive view of the Amakusa islands and the sea stretching into the distance. Absolutely refreshing.

Enjoying the sunset from the terrace.

Since there are very few artificial lights in the area, the night view is mostly dark. However, soaking in the open-air bath under the night sky is a unique and tranquil experience. If the weather is clear, you might even see the stars.

And of course, a morning bath is also a perfect way to start the day.

Waking up to such a breathtaking view is an experience like no other. This is the essence of a perfect getaway.

Dining at Tenku no Fune

Dinner is served at the ship-shaped building’s second-floor restaurant, “Festa del Mare,” which offers stunning views.

Although we couldn’t get a window-side seat, the sofa seating was comfortable and relaxing.

This evening’s dinner menu featured a selection of Amakusa’s finest ingredients, including Amakusa Ume Pork, Amakusa Daio chicken, Amakusa spiny lobster, and locally sourced beef and clams from Kumamoto.

To start: Amakusa Ume Pork Rillette, served with blood orange and ricotta.

Fresh fish carpaccio featuring Southern salmon, flounder, and abalone.

Kumamoto clam soup with seasonal vegetables.

Fettuccine with Amakusa Daio chicken gizzard ragu sauce.

Amakusa Spiny Lobster with Fuki Miso-Flavored Sabayon Sauce.

Grilled Kumamoto Wagyu beef with wasabi-infused sauce.

Seasonal dessert: Bianco mangiare with spring macedonia.

Each dish was beautifully presented, highlighting the freshness of the ingredients with exquisite flavors. Truly a fantastic meal.

Breakfast at Tenku no Fune

Breakfast is also served at the same restaurant, Festa del Mare.

We were lucky to get a special seat at the ship’s bow, offering a premium view.

The breakfast was beautifully arranged and visually delightful. The porridge was particularly delicious, making it hard to resist getting a second serving. Completely satisfying!

Final Thoughts: Review of Tenku no Fune

Amakusa, with its breathtaking scenery and abundance of delicious local ingredients, left a lasting impression on us.

At “Tenku no Fune,” we were able to fully immerse ourselves in both the stunning views and exquisite cuisine.

For anyone considering a trip to Kyushu or Kumamoto, this resort hotel is highly recommended. Whether you’re looking for relaxation, gourmet dining, or simply a beautiful retreat, Tenku no Fune offers an unforgettable experience.

If you’re planning your next getaway, why not treat yourself to the incredible views and hospitality of Tenku no Fune?

While not common in other prefectures, horse meat (also called “sakura meat”) is widely available and freshly served in many restaurants throughout Kumamoto.

One of the most renowned places to enjoy it is Suganoya.

During a recent visit to Kumamoto, I had the chance to stop by this famous restaurant for a full course of premium horse meat dishes!

Suganoya: Kumamoto’s Popular Horse Meat Restaurant

I arrived at the Ginza-dori branch of Suganoya in downtown Kumamoto around 5:00 PM—still early, while it was light outside.

The last time I visited, the restaurant was fully booked. Even this time, I could only get a seat before 8:00 PM—clearly a very popular spot.

Let’s head in!

Since I was dining solo, I was seated at the counter.

Skilled chefs were busy preparing the horse meat dishes right in front of me.

Beautiful cuts of glistening red horse meat were laid out on the counter.

I started with a cold beer.

I opted for the Sakura Kaiseki course (¥4,500 as of 2013).

The appetizer was carefully prepared and delicious.

Next came sakura natto (horse meat with fermented soybeans). Mix well and top with soy sauce.

Even though I usually dislike natto, this one was surprisingly easy to eat.

They provided both Kyushu-style sweet soy sauce and regular salty soy sauce. Great for those who don’t prefer the sweeter variety.

Enjoying the Full Horse Meat Course: Sashimi, Steak, Sushi, and More

Next up was the star of the show—horse sashimi (basashi).

Aside from the mane (fatty part), I couldn’t recall which cut was which, but each had its own flavor. The fatty cuts were full of umami, while the lean red meat paired perfectly with ginger soy sauce.

Stewed horse offal—yes, still horse meat!

Grilled horse steak served with grated daikon sauce—excellent with rice.

You might think horse meat has a strong gamey flavor, but it really doesn’t.

Horse sushi—yes, sushi with horse meat!

This was my personal favorite. You really have to try it.

A light soup made from horse belly meat—deliciously rich broth.

Dessert to finish—thankfully, not horse-related!

A full course of this quality at such a reasonable price—amazing. Everything was delicious.

Suganoya: The Go-To Restaurant for Horse Meat in Kumamoto

Though not included in my course, the menu also offers liver and heart sashimi, yakiniku, shabu-shabu, sukiyaki, skewers, and fried dishes.

Trying a variety of dishes a la carte would also be a great option.

If you’re visiting Kumamoto, sampling horse meat is a must.

Among the many options, Suganoya is a trusted and highly recommended choice!

Can’t make it to Kumamoto? Suganoya’s horse sashimi is also available online, including Amazon.