In Nagasaki, where flat land is scarce and mountains are abundant, buildings are constructed along the slopes, and when darkness falls, it creates a night view rarely seen in other places.

While Hakodate, Kobe, and Nagasaki are known as Japan’s Three Great Night Views, Nagasaki has also been selected as one of the “World’s New Top Three Night Views.”

However, this was certified at the “Night View Summit 2012 in Nagasaki” based on a survey by a Japanese organization, so you should probably factor in some local bias. Regardless of whether it’s included in the world’s top three night views, there’s no doubt that Nagasaki’s night view is beautiful.

As a local, you’d never go there except on a date (which is why I never had the chance), but I recently went while visiting for the Lantern Festival, so here’s my report!

To Mount Inasa Observatory by Car, Bus, or Ropeway

There are several routes to the Mount Inasa observatory. Here are your options for reference:

Route 1: Drive to the paid parking lot next to the observatory
Disadvantage: The paid parking lot only holds 40 cars, so it may be full on weekends and busy times. Entry restrictions may be in place (Reference: Access | Inasayama Park WEB)

Route 2: Drive to the large free parking lot before the observatory, then walk or take a shuttle bus to the observatory
Disadvantage: About a 15-minute walk from the free parking lot to the observatory. Shuttle bus times are fixed

Route 3: Use the ropeway (Reference: Nagasaki Ropeway | Operating Information)
Disadvantage: Need to take a bus to the boarding area. Note the ropeway operating hours (9:00-22:00)

Route 4: Take a regular bus to the free parking lot, then shuttle bus from there
Disadvantage: Regular buses run about once every 30 minutes (Reference: Quick Timetable & Fare Search | Nagasaki Bus)

Route 5: Taxi

This time I chose Route 2 above. I headed to the free parking lot by rental car, then took the shuttle bus to the observatory from there.

If you want to enjoy watching the city gradually transform into its nighttime face, arriving a little before sunset is best.

Nagasaki City is full of mountains and slopes, but surprisingly doesn’t have many high-altitude mountains. So all of Nagasaki’s major broadcasting stations have installed their antennas next to the observatory on the relatively high Mount Inasa (333 meters).

From next to the observatory, you can already see Nagasaki’s city and harbor at a glance.

The weather wasn’t great this day, but still a good view.

Let’s enter the cylindrical observation tower.

Wait for Nightfall While Viewing Outside from Inside the Observatory

Inside there’s a rest area and some small exhibits.

This day there was a Mount Inasa Photo Contest display.

The outside is a spiral upward slope, and as you go up there’s an observation deck.

Selected as one of the World’s New Top Three Night Views along with Hong Kong and Monaco. While it was chosen by a Japanese organization at a summit held in Nagasaki so you should read between the lines, there’s no doubt it’s a very beautiful night view.

Benches are installed on the spiral slope, so many people wait here for nightfall while watching outside.

Even from here you can see a beautiful night view.

I climbed up the slope to just before the observation deck. But this day the temperature was low and the wind was strong, making it incredibly cold, so I decided to wait inside until nightfall before going out.

By the way, next to it there’s also a restaurant where you can dine while viewing Nagasaki’s scenery and night view. The panel featuring Taro Hakase is prominent, but he doesn’t have any particular connection to Nagasaki – he performs “Nagasaki Nocturne,” the theme song for the New Top Three Night Views promoting Nagasaki tourism.

As sunset approaches, tourists keep arriving. Though it’s a weekday, the Lantern Festival is in session. The impression is about half Japanese and half Chinese/Korean tourists.

It’s gradually getting darker and looking good. Already beautiful…!

Let’s go up to the observation deck now.

Enjoy One of the World’s Finest Night Views Created by Terrain and Harbor

This day the temperature was approaching 0°C, one of the coldest days of the year. Plus it was snowing and windy – just freezing! But since we came all this way, we must see the night view! Must take photos!

Whoa…! So beautiful!! It truly deserves to be called a million-dollar night view. (Though it’s surely worth more than a million dollars now)

Everyone is freezing saying “So cold!” but still gazing at the night view.

The observation deck is fairly spacious with platforms in the back, so even when many people come, everyone can properly view the night scene.

Antennas, parking lot, night view. This contrast is also beautiful.

Nagasaki’s narrow, deep harbor and the lights from buildings and roads along the slopes create one of the world’s finest night views.

After enjoying the night view, we took the shuttle bus back to the free parking lot.

Despite being during the Lantern Festival period, since it was a weekday and very cold, the free parking lot was empty. The paid parking lot wasn’t full either, so we could have used it if we’d wanted to, but oh well.

Final Thoughts

Nagasaki has many attractions, but especially if you’re visiting as a couple or married couple, you can’t miss this world-class beautiful night view. While bus schedules vary by season, it’s nice that you can basically enjoy it year-round. Please come and see it!

In this ritual, families of those who have passed away during the previous year place the spirits of the deceased aboard decorated wooden boats called shōrō-bune, adorned with Bon lanterns and artificial flowers, then transport them to a final destination known as the “flowing site.”

You might remember the thunderous noise of firecrackers exploding as the boats move along the streets to the flow site. Since few outside Nagasaki know this custom, here’s an introduction to this local tradition.

As Shōrō Nagashi Approaches, Spectral Boats Appear Throughout Town

As August 15 nears, shōrō-bune begin to appear all over the city.

The characters “Seihōmaru” on the sail mean “Western Pure Land,” reflecting the Buddhist belief that paradise lies to the west and guiding spirits there.

The peak ritual time is around 7–9 PM, but processions start as early as 5 PM while it’s still light out.

Even before traffic restrictions begin, the boats push forward.

Scenes from the Bon Lantern Boat Procession

After 8 PM, I went out to watch. The streets were littered with spent firecracker boxes and ash where boats had passed. (Cleaned up overnight)

Only on this night do people freely set off fireworks and firecrackers in the streets.

Police enforce safety and traffic controls wherever firecrackers and fireworks appear.

Walking toward the flow site, a community boat appeared! The clanging of bells and deafening firecrackers filled the air.

I recorded a video to capture the cacophony. Warning: extremely loud firecrackers!

Some hold firecrackers or fireworks in hand…

Others dump large boxes of firecrackers and set them all off at once. (Not recommended for safety)

Some boats are privately sponsored.

Others repurpose small trucks as floats.

The boats form long, winding processions.

Reaching a major intersection near the flow site, spectral boats cross while trains, buses, and pedestrians all yield.

I filmed the crossing in action:

At the Flow Site… A Bit Poignant

After the intersection, boats head to the Ōhato flow site.

Boats are not released into the sea (to prevent littering). Instead, after removing memorial photos, a crane ceremonially destroys each boat under participants’ prayers.

Although necessary, it feels somewhat fleeting. Fire trucks stand by just in case.

Participants, still wearing festive happi coats, carry memorial photos, spirit tablets, and bells home.

Afterword

Those over 40 might know Masashi Sada’s song “Shōrō Nagashi,” but the real event isn’t a quiet ceremony—it’s a boisterous celebration of bells, firecrackers, and chants. (Yet it remains a solemn ritual to honor the deceased.) If you plan to visit Nagasaki on August 15, be sure to witness this spectacle in person—and bring earplugs for the unexpected deafening firecracker blasts!

Every time I return to my hometown of Nagasaki, I gradually explore new places.

When it comes to famous Nagasaki foods, champon and sara udon noodles, Chinese cuisine, or seafood and shippoku cuisine come to mind, but another dish I’d like you to try is Turkish Rice.

The common pattern seems to be dry curry, tonkatsu, and Napolitan pasta, but there are various combinations depending on the restaurant.
It’s essentially a dish where Western food all-stars are assembled on one plate, and it even has the nickname “adult children’s meal.”

While each dish on the plate isn’t something you can only eat in Nagasaki, it’s quite rare to see dishes that could normally be main courses all lined up on a single plate.

However, “Astoria,” which I frequented as a student, and “ENA Cafe,” which I previously ate at and rated highly, have closed, and the famous “Tsuru-chan” was personally disappointing to me.

While I was wondering if there was anywhere good… I was browsing through the Turkish Rice catalog by Nekomachi Restaurant (@nekomachihanten),

地元民なら知っておきたい長崎市トルコライスカタログ | 猫町飯店の休日

ちゃんぽん皿うどんとならび、忘れちゃいけない長崎名物といえばトルコライス。特色がでやすい料理で、ライスもカレーピラフだったりバターライスだったりケチャップライスだったりサフランライスだったり。スパゲティも細い・太い・柔い・硬いとその店々で特...

nekomachihanten.net

and “Primrose” caught my eye as a restaurant with good access that looked delicious.

It’s conveniently located close to the streetcar stop and right in front of Meganebashi (Spectacles Bridge), which tourists often visit.

The quality of all the dishes that make up the Turkish Rice is high, and I highly recommend this restaurant even as a side trip during sightseeing!

Primrose, a Western Restaurant with Great Views Right Next to Meganebashi

Meganebashi (Spectacles Bridge), a famous tourist spot in Nagasaki City.

It’s Japan’s first arch-style stone bridge, named because it looks like spectacles when combined with its reflection on the water surface.
(The current Meganebashi was restored in 1983)

Built in Kan’ei 11 (1634) by Zen Master Mokushi Nyojō of Kōfukuji Temple, this Meganebashi is 22m long, 3.65m wide, and 5.46m high from the water surface, famous as Japan’s first arch-style stone bridge.
The reflection on the water surface creates twin circles that look like “spectacles,” which is how it got its name, and it’s counted among Japan’s three famous bridges along with “Nihonbashi” and “Kintaikyo.”
It partially collapsed during the Great Nagasaki Flood of 1982 but was restored the following year and designated as a National Important Cultural Property.
Meganebashi | Tourist Spots | [Official] Nagasaki Tourism/Travel Portal Site Nagasaki Tabi-Net

Restaurant Primrose is located about a 15-second walk from Meganebashi. It’s on the 2nd floor of this building.

A restaurant where you can dine while looking at Meganebashi and the Nakashima River. Let’s go in right away.

This was lunchtime on the last day of a three-day weekend, but there was one group waiting. Even during a holiday weekend, having a wait is evidence of a quite popular restaurant.

It’s a small, neat restaurant with about 6 tables. Most customers seemed to be locals.

The recommendation is definitely Turkish Rice. Primrose’s Turkish Rice basically consists of curry rice with tomato pasta, pork cutlet, and salad.

There are also apparently menu items called Double/Triple Turkish Rice, where you can substitute the cutlet in Turkish Rice with hamburger, croquette, or fried shrimp, or luxuriously add 2 or 3 of these items.

Since I was hungry, I ordered the Triple Turkish Rice with cutlet, hamburger, and fried shrimp for 1,100 yen.

There’s a large window facing the street, from which you can see the Nakashima River and even catch a glimpse of Meganebashi at the edge.
Since it’s a wire-reinforced window, it’s not 100% clear, but you can enjoy dining while looking at the scenery.

Triple Turkish Rice with Powerful Visual Impact

While I was observing the restaurant like this, steaming hot consommé soup was served. It’s nice that Western food allows you to warm up your stomach with soup or salad. (As you can see, it’s extremely hot, so be careful)

And shortly after, the Triple Turkish Rice with cutlet, hamburger, and fried shrimp that I had ordered arrived.
How about this super appetite-inducing visual!

On the front left is curry rice, and the oval-shaped item to its right is hamburger.

Plus fried shrimp and thin-sliced cutlet. Under the cutlet is tomato pasta.
There’s also crispy salad in the back.
By the way, if you remove the hamburger and fried shrimp, it becomes regular Turkish Rice.

When you hear “children’s meal,” you imagine a variety of dishes that are easy for children to eat – hamburgers, fried foods, and other “obviously delicious” items.

Turkish Rice, true to its nickname “adult children’s meal,” features renowned delicious Western dishes all piled onto one plate with a bang!

Triple Turkish Rice can be said to have perfected this adult childishness. Looking at this overwhelming visual impact, you have to be convinced.

High-Level Turkish Rice Where Each Dish is Delicious

The quality of Turkish Rice depends on the combined strength of each individual dish.
In that regard, Primrose’s Turkish Rice is quite high-level.

The tender, juicy hamburger is slightly coarse-ground, allowing you to really taste the meat’s umami.

The standard Turkish Rice member, thin-sliced cutlet. Crispy with coating that’s neither too thick nor too thin, and the sauce sweetness is just right.

The curry is a bit mild for someone like me who likes spicy food. However, it would be cruel to demand divisive spicy curry on this plate, and it’s normally delicious and totally OK.

The fairly long fried shrimp is also crispy. It has sauce on it, but dipping it in the tartar sauce in the back makes it even richer and creamier.

While typical Turkish Rice has Napolitan pasta, Primrose calls it “tomato pasta,” which had me curious, but now I understand.

Unlike Napolitan where ketchup comes through strongly, this was Western-style pasta where you could taste the tomato flavor. Since the other dishes also have strong flavors, perhaps they made it this way to avoid conflicting tastes.
That said, this would of course be more than delicious enough as a standalone dish with high quality.

Conclusion

I had no idea there was such a good restaurant in downtown Nagasaki, right near Meganebashi.

It’s easy to recommend to tourists visiting Nagasaki, and above all, it’s delicious, so no complaints.

From now on, when asked “Where’s good Turkish Rice in Nagasaki?” I’d like to recommend this place!

Of course I had their champon. The soup was so smooth and rich—exactly my type.
It was good enough to make me sure their sara udon and other Chinese dishes must be delicious too. Next time, I want to come with more people and try a variety.

Horaiken Bekkan is near Nagasaki Peace Park and the Atomic Bomb Museum, so I highly recommend stopping by if you’re sightseeing in the area.

Horaiken Bekkan: Impressive Building Near Nagasaki Peace Park

After getting off the streetcar at the Atomic Bomb Museum stop, it’s just a few minutes’ walk uphill before you see a striking, impressive building. The sign says “Chinese Cuisine Horaiken Bekkan.”

It’s a vibrant, glamorous red and orange building, classic for a Chinese restaurant. The street is narrow, so it’s too big to capture in a single iPhone shot.

They have a private parking lot across the street, so it’s possible to come by car. Just note that Nagasaki has many narrow, hilly roads—driving can be a bit nerve-wracking, though around here it’s probably fine.

A courteous staff member showed me to my seat. Most seating is at tables, but there are also a few counter seats, making it comfortable even for solo diners.
I heard the upper floors are reserved for groups, so it probably gets lots of tour groups visiting after Peace Park or the museum.

The lunch menu looked tempting…

…but of course I had to go for the classic champon (¥900). The crispy or thick noodle sara udon was tempting too.

As much as I love Chinese food, I didn’t order another dish since they mainly serve large platters meant for sharing.
If they’d had a single serving of mapo tofu, I would’ve definitely gone for it. Everything looked delicious.

Exceptional Soup with Rich, Deep Flavor—So Good!

The champon arrived, piled high with vegetables and a little meat and seafood.

A heaping mound of toppings in a milky white broth. It looked amazing.

At first the soup seemed light, but then the savory richness slowly spread in my mouth. So good.
I’m guessing it’s a blend of seafood and chicken stock.

The noodles didn’t seem to use the special lye (toaku) typical of Nagasaki champon, but were shiny and soft, similar to places like Ringer Hut.
I might have preferred the traditional style, but with such a tasty soup, it didn’t matter to me at all.

Have you ever seen soup this beautifully smooth on the surface? You can tell just by looking how it’s not greasy at all. It went down so easily.

I know you shouldn’t drink too much soup, but I nearly finished it. It was just that good.

Final Thoughts

When people think of Chinese food in Nagasaki, they usually think of Chinatown.
But there are actually many great Chinese restaurants all over the city—lots of hidden gems.

Horaiken Bekkan serves excellent champon, and I’m sure their other dishes are fantastic too.
Plus, being close to Peace Park makes it the perfect stop for visitors. Next time, I’m definitely trying the sara udon!

Even now, I go back to Nagasaki during New Year’s and summer holidays to visit family.

This time, I decided to revisit a well-known and nostalgic café called Tsuruchan—a name that may sound unique to outsiders but is familiar to locals. I used to frequent their old branch in Shindaikumachi as a kid.

Today, they only operate one location near Shianbashi.

Tsuruchan is considered the oldest café in Kyushu and is famous for its Turkish rice and milkshake.

Though I had likely visited the main store before, my memory was fuzzy, so I decided to stop by again to refresh it!

The Oldest Café in Kyushu: Tsuruchan’s Building Feels Surprisingly Modern

Tsuruchan is located just past the Nishihamamachi arcade (Kanko-dori) heading east toward Shianbashi.

The building’s exterior has a certain character.

I visited on January 2nd, when Nagasaki is full of tourists and returnees for the New Year. The café was quite busy, with occasional lines forming outside.

Inside, tables were packed closely together, probably to maximize capacity.

Founded in 1925, the café displays many old photos and decorations that attempt to recreate the early Showa era atmosphere. But because the building itself is rather new, the retro vibe feels slightly forced.

Maybe due to the New Year rush, items like doria, pizza, and the service lunch weren’t available that day.

I ordered their most classic item: “Nostalgic Turkish Rice.” But at ¥1,180, it felt a bit steep.

Another highlight is their Nagasaki-style milkshake. I added a half-size shake for an extra ¥350.

The menu also proudly declares the café’s status as the oldest in Kyushu.

There are even matchbox designs and clippings explaining the store’s unique name.

Still, the modern décor lacks the authentic Taisho or Showa-era charm. Some of the cheap tablecloths and touristy posters on the walls dilute the old-school vibe.

Turkish Rice That Feels Like a School Lunch—Definitely Not Worth ¥1,180

The staff that day included one emotionless lady who shouted every order loudly, and a more cheerful young man. Her loud “Thanks for waiting!!” startled many customers.

The place was packed, and it took an astonishing 50 minutes *after* ordering to get my food.

I remembered going with my now-deceased grandmother and younger brother to their former branch years ago, waiting over an hour. Funny how that memory came back.

I passed the time working and gaming, until finally, the Turkish Rice arrived!

Their version consists of plain rice, cutlet topped with curry sauce, and pasta without any toppings—no dry curry or fancy additions.

One bite and… hmm.

The pork cutlet was thin but crispy—nothing remarkable though. The curry sauce was mild and sweet, more like a school cafeteria dish. The pasta? Just basic Napolitan with no ingredients.

For ¥1,180, this was honestly disappointing. It felt more like a ¥600 meal at best.

The Milkshake Tastes Nostalgically Simple

The milkshake had a faint dairy aroma and mild sweetness—refreshing and light.

It wasn’t as rich or condensed as it looked, but it did evoke a sense of nostalgia.

While not mind-blowingly delicious, it might hit home for some locals. I didn’t grow up drinking these often, so I can’t say if it’s a traditional taste.

Final Thoughts

Considering the taste, price, and long wait times, I wouldn’t recommend this café to tourists.

It feels like one of those places that lost its soul and caters only to visitors now.

I really hope they regain their pride and serve truly delicious food again…

*Note: My visit was in January 2016. The quality may have changed since then.

I usually write about places I recommend, but despite its fame, Tsuruchan didn’t live up to my expectations. So, I decided to give readers an honest review.

It would be unfortunate if people left Nagasaki thinking, “Is this the best food they have?” There’s so much better out there.

If you’re looking for good Turkish Rice, I highly recommend Restaurant Primrose near Meganebashi—it’s far better.

My personal favorite was a place called “Astoria,” but sadly it closed years ago due to the owner’s health.

If you’re just curious about visiting Kyushu’s oldest café, go ahead. But if your goal is to enjoy a delicious meal in Nagasaki, I wouldn’t recommend it.

To change that, I’ve made it a habit to explore more local spots whenever I return home.
For the first installment of this mission, I chose to visit the famous Chinese restaurant Kozanro.

It’s one of the most iconic and popular restaurants in Nagasaki’s Chinatown.

It’s also well known thanks to Japanese musician Masashi Sada, who wrote a theme song for the restaurant.

I had to try it for myself — so I went!

Kozanro: The Most Famous and Beloved Restaurant in Nagasaki Chinatown

I headed to Shinchi Chinatown, located in my hometown of Nagasaki.

Although it’s one of the three major Chinatowns in Japan, it’s by far the smallest in scale.

The entire area spans just one crossroad and its surroundings — probably about one-tenth the size of Yokohama’s.

That said, the quality of the food here more than holds its own. In fact, it might be the best of the three. Of course, that depends on the restaurant.

Nagasaki actually has many Chinese restaurants scattered throughout the city — not just in Chinatown.

There aren’t many places like Ringer Hut that specialize solely in champon and sara udon.

I passed through the Chinatown gate and walked in.

That statue looks kind of scary…

Kozanro has both a main building and a new annex, located side by side.

This time, I decided to try the annex.
I was warmly greeted by a staff member in a kimono.

I was seated at a table on the first floor.
There are also round tables and private rooms on the upper floors.

The menu featured authentic Chinese cuisine.

One of their signature dishes: Sara Udon (crispy noodles with seafood and vegetables).

Their braised pork belly buns (tonpo-ro) looked tempting too…

But I had to go with their famous champon!
So I ordered the deluxe version for 1,575 yen.

Deluxe Champon with Nagasaki-Style Noodles and a Rich Seafood Broth

Here it is — the deluxe champon. So many toppings!

Wow, that looks amazing.

The topping on the very top… is that shark fin? It doesn’t have much flavor, but I think it is!
The bowl is packed with ingredients: shrimp, squid, scallops, clams, meatballs, vegetables — you name it.

Unlike the pork or chicken-based broths commonly found in other prefectures, the soup here is heavily seafood-based.
(It seems like they’ve added more meat-based stock than before… but it’s still delicious.)

The noodles are made with “touaku” — a traditional alkaline ingredient unique to Nagasaki.
It’s hard to describe, but for someone who grew up in Nagasaki, this texture and flavor define authentic champon noodles.

The Classic Starting Point for Nagasaki Cuisine: Kozanro

Because it’s so well-known, locals seem divided in opinion — but I still think Kozanro is a solid choice for anyone visiting Chinatown.

If you’re traveling to Nagasaki, make sure to stop by!

I discovered the “Sasebo Burger MAP,” which introduces officially recognized burger shops, easily identified by a signboard featuring a character designed by Takashi Yanase, the creator of Anpanman.

Among the many tempting choices, I decided on a place called “Hikari Hamburger Shop,” which caught my attention after seeing it featured on Twitter by Mitsurou Kubo, a manga artist from Sasebo known for “Moteki.”

While Sasebo Burgers are often associated with oversized American portions, the burgers at Hikari are a more modest size. Still, with its combination of bacon, cheese, egg, patty, and a special sauce, it was absolutely delicious!

Hikari: A Legendary Sasebo Burger Shop

Hikari Hamburger Shop is conveniently located near the Sasebo Chuo IC and about a 15-minute walk from Matsuura Railway’s Sasebo Chuo Station. Right next door is another famous Sasebo Burger shop, “LOG KIT.”

The shop proudly displays the certification mark of the “Sasebo Burger Boy.”

Hikari is one of the oldest Sasebo Burger establishments, operating since 1951 (Showa Year 26). The origin of the Sasebo Burger itself remains unclear, but this shop is undoubtedly a pioneer.

With just seven counter seats, the shop is small, and many customers opt for takeout. Although long waits are common during tourist seasons, I visited early on a weekday and was seated right away.

The walls inside are adorned with autographs and articles.

The Famous “Special Burger” – A Perfect Harmony of Ingredients

Despite its American heritage, the burgers here are more standard in size and pricing, slightly higher than fast-food chains.

I ordered the “Special Burger,” which includes everything.

Each burger is handmade from freshly minced meat, so there’s a short wait. Here’s the Special Burger—a compact size but with impressive thickness!

The burger features lettuce, tomato, onion, bacon, thick cheese, an egg, and a small but densely packed patty.

While it might appear large in photos, the burger compresses easily, making it manageable even for smaller appetites. Time to dig in!

The special sauce blends perfectly with the bacon, egg, patty, and the standout ingredient: the rich, flavorful cheese. Unlike the thin, generic cheese used in chain burgers, this cheese pairs beautifully with the meat and sauce. Simply irresistible!

Hikari: A Must-Visit for Authentic Sasebo Burgers

Hikari offers a perfect balance of authentic American-style burgers and a size tailored to Japanese preferences. It’s a delicious stop you won’t want to miss.

Sasebo and its surrounding areas, including Huis Ten Bosch, Nagasaki City, Ureshino Onsen, and Takeo Onsen, are fantastic destinations. If you’re visiting, make sure to include Hikari on your list for a memorable Sasebo Burger experience!