It’s one of Japan’s Three Great Inari Shrines, along with Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto and Kasama Inari Shrine in Ibaraki. From the photos, it looked impressively grand.

Embarrassingly, despite being from Nagasaki and living in Fukuoka, this was the first time I’d heard of it. My apologies…

Counted as one of Japan’s Three Great Inari Shrines, it receives endless prayers for business prosperity, family fortune, abundant catches, traffic safety, and various other wishes, attracting about 3 million visitors annually. The main hall, kagura hall, tower gate, and other structures are all finished in lacquer with brilliant colors, creating a magnificent and splendid appearance known as the “Nikko of Western Japan,” adding a unique touch to the tourist route.
About Yutoku Inari Shrine | Yutoku Inari Shrine

The large red shrine buildings rising against the backdrop of green trees are truly fantastic—simply put, they’re incredibly cool.

The grounds include a Japanese garden, and when I visited, peonies were blooming beautifully. Across from the shrine is the Yutoku Museum, displaying excavated treasures and historical materials, surrounded by the beautiful flowers of Higashiyama Park.

I couldn’t help thinking that people in Saga should promote this shrine more! Though it’s worth noting that it already ranks second in Kyushu for visitor numbers, so perhaps I was just the one who didn’t know about it.

Yutoku Inari Shrine: Red Main Hall Against Green Trees

Upon arrival, I was amazed by its scale beyond imagination. I had no idea Yutoku Inari Shrine was such a magnificent shrine!

Across from the shrine, next to the parking lot, is Higashiyama Park with blooming azaleas.

Like Fushimi Inari, it has expansive grounds extending not just around the main hall but all the way to the inner shrine near the mountain peak.

We passed through the stone torii gate and proceeded deeper into the grounds.

Then the main hall, surrounded by trees, came into view. The vivid red stands out beautifully against the green foliage.

The tower gate is also quite impressive. There were many tour groups from overseas as well.

Like Kyoto’s Kiyomizu Temple, this shrine features wooden framework construction with the main hall elevated high above. The view must be spectacular.

A view from the front. The current main hall was rebuilt in 1957 after the original was destroyed by fire in 1949. Thanks to excellent maintenance, it’s hard to believe it’s been 60 years.

First, we paid our respects at the kagura hall, then decided to climb up to the main hall.

The more I look at it, the more dignified the main hall appears.

We climbed the 117 steps. There are maple trees along the way, making me imagine how beautiful it must be in autumn.

This is the main hall, decorated with vibrant colors.

I performed the traditional two bows, two claps, and one bow.

From the elevated main hall, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the shrine buildings and the flowers of Higashiyama Park. What a view!

I noticed after descending that there’s a surprisingly modern elevator alongside the stairs to reach the main hall. While it costs 300 yen, you apparently receive an original fortune slip as a souvenir.

I didn’t draw a fortune because I only saw generic ones (I’m a purist for shrine-original fortunes), but I had no idea there was this system of receiving one by taking the elevator…

From the Main Hall: The Path to the Inner Shrine with Rows of Torii Gates

From beside the main hall, a path continues to the inner shrine at the mountain peak. It’s apparently about 300 meters along a mountain trail.

While not as extensive as Fushimi Inari Taisha, walking through the rows of red torii gates is delightful in itself.

The weathered torii gates add wonderful character.

We decided to skip visiting the inner shrine due to our schedule, but I recommend it if you have time.

Japanese Garden: Enjoy Seasonal Flowers Year-Round

At Yutoku Inari Shrine’s Japanese garden, you can enjoy the elegant garden and seasonal flowers throughout the year. Admission is 200 yen.

When I visited, many peonies in full bloom were on display.

The white, pink, and red varieties were vibrant and beautiful.

While I initially thought “They charge admission?”, the quality was definitely worth the price.

Final Thoughts

Since it’s located in the Nagasaki-facing part of Saga Prefecture, I recommend adding it to your itinerary if you’re traveling to Saga or Nagasaki. It’s also close to Ureshino Onsen and Takeo Onsen hot spring resorts.

*Information is current as of article publication. Please verify details on the official website.

The library gained considerable attention, both positive and negative, when the city partnered with CCC (Culture Convenience Club, the company operating TSUTAYA bookstores), but I’d never visited.

Further research revealed that near Takeo City Library stands Takeo’s Great Camphor Tree, an ancient tree over 3,000 years old. Being able to enjoy both in one trip sounded promising…

While photography inside Takeo City Library was restricted, the interior design is stylish, making it a library and bookstore worth visiting regularly. With Starbucks on-site, it also seems excellent as a cafe or study space.

And Takeo’s Great Camphor Tree—though I initially thought “it’s just a big tree, right?”—exceeded expectations with its majesty and splendor. The path leading to it is equally atmospheric.

Near Takeo City Library are Takeo Onsen and Ureshino Onsen hot springs. It’s also conveniently located on the route from Fukuoka to Nagasaki.
I highly recommend this area as a stopover when traveling in the region!

Takeo City Library – A Bookstore and Starbucks Integrated Library

I arrived at Takeo City Library. About 1 hour 20 minutes by car from Fukuoka City, about 1 hour from Nagasaki City. About 15 minutes on foot from Takeo Onsen Station.

With 90 parking spaces, you should be able to park easily outside of weekends and holidays. During busy times, nearby public facility parking is also available.

武雄市図書館

武雄市図書館では、従来の図書貸出はもちろんのこと、蔦屋書店の併設により、本や物販商品の購入が可能です。また、館内にはスターバックス コーヒーも併設され、コーヒーを飲みながら本を読むことができます。

takeo.city-library.jp

(https://takeo.city-library.jp/)

Beautiful flowers bloom around the parking area.

The integrated Starbucks has terrace seating. It seems pleasant in spring and autumn.

Interior space. With a design uncommon in Japanese libraries, it’s very open and filled with natural sunlight, creating a bright atmosphere. The bookstore and Starbucks occupy the right-front space on the first floor, while extensive library collections line the walls and the second floor.

While I wanted to photograph around the interesting design, photography is only permitted in two locations: immediately left of the 1F entrance and at the end of the 2F hallway.
I understand—many people want to quietly read books.

This is the view from the other photography spot. Numerous books line the shelves, including some at heights that seem unreachable.

The interior has many tables, desks, and seating areas scattered throughout, maintaining an appropriately quiet atmosphere. It looks like an excellent environment for reading and studying. I’d frequent it if it were nearby.

The integrated Takeo City Children’s Library also has a nice atmosphere.

There’s a play area for small children beside the entrance, and a cafe on the 2F where parents can relax. On this weekday with few visitors, staff were entertaining a young child.

※Information current at time of article publication. Please verify on official website.

The Path to Takeo’s Great Camphor Tree and the Tree Itself Are Wonderfully Exceptional

Takeo Shrine, about 5 minutes on foot from Takeo City Library.

Beyond the shrine lies Momiji-dori (Maple Avenue), leading to Takeo’s Great Camphor Tree, over 3,000 years old.
It has been alive since the Jomon period. Amazing.

Passing through a torii gate inscribed “Sacred Tree,” I headed toward the great camphor.

Walking through a lush green tunnel of beautiful maples,

Past towering bamboo thickets,

I reached Takeo’s Great Camphor Tree.
As expected, it’s remarkably majestic. Despite over 3,000 years of life, it’s vibrant with abundant foliage and vitality.

The gnarled bark of the trunk conveys the passage of long ages—impressive.
I involuntarily gasped “Oh…!” at its overwhelming presence. I was genuinely awed.

Before arriving, I casually thought I’d stop by if convenient. But including the path leading to it, this proved a destination worth visiting specifically. I’m glad I came.

I’m not fond of vague terms like “power spot,” but if such places exist, surely this is one.

※Information current at time of article publication. Please verify on official website.

Final Thoughts

Behind modern architecture stands a great camphor tree conveying accumulated history and natural power.
This contrast is appealing, isn’t it?

When nearby, I recommend visiting not just Takeo City Library, but also Takeo’s Great Camphor Tree!

To be honest, when it comes to pottery, there’s an image that it mainly targets middle-aged and older customers.
But that’s not actually the case.
There are many products and shops that appeal to younger demographics too, including ceramics incorporating Nordic design, stylish shops, and cafes.

“Gallery Arita,” which I happened to discover while googling for lunch options, is one such establishment.
With Arita-yaki coffee cups covering an entire wall, a modern and stylish interior, a cafe restaurant serving local ingredients in Arita-yaki dishes, and a rich variety of souvenirs.
Even people who think “Pottery? I don’t really get it” will surely get excited when they visit—it’s a shop that people of all ages can enjoy and I highly recommend!

“Gallery Arita” – A Stylish Cafe Restaurant and Shop Combined

Gallery Arita is located about a 10-minute walk from Arita Station, along National Route 35. It’s a bit over an hour by car from Nagasaki City and about an hour and a half from Fukuoka.
A large pottery jar or vase serves as the landmark.

Of course, there’s parking available.
Wait, what’s that car with the innovative design parked in front of the shop…?

Wow, so cool! A Mini Cooper incorporating plenty of Japanese aesthetic elements.

Decorated with pottery patterns, it’s probably custom-made. How interesting.

Both outside the shop and the interior visible through the windows are filled with pottery.

Upon entering, the cafe restaurant is on the left and the shop on the right. The display methods are elaborate and enjoyable.

The shop stocks plenty of pottery from affordable pieces to luxury items.

Since lunch was our purpose that day, we entered the cafe restaurant.

Enjoying Lunch Surrounded by Arita-yaki Cups

This Japanese-modern space surrounded by Arita-yaki coffee cups covering the entire wall is absolutely fantastic.

The staff waiting area looks like a bar counter.
They don’t seem to do this now, but it would be great if they served beer and sake in Arita-yaki vessels at night. Though it might be difficult since many people come by car?

Even the water is served in nice pottery. Children get cute cups (back right).

They offer a rich menu of lunch items, cakes, drinks, and desserts.

I ordered the “Imari Beef Curry (1,200 yen).” Each dish is served in elaborate pottery, which is fantastic! The taste was, well, normally delicious curry. (laughs)

This is what my brother ordered: “Arita-yaki Five Course Set (1,300 yen, with dessert and drink).” It’s a menu featuring Arita’s brand chicken, Aritadori, prepared in five different cooking methods.
The dishes are wonderful too.

It was apparently very delicious. My niece was munching on the fried chicken.

Choose Your Favorite from the Wall of Coffee Cups

When you order hot coffee or tea as your drink, you’re given a token like this. You place this token in your favorite coffee cup and bring it to the counter, and they’ll serve your drink in that vessel.

You can choose from all these cups covering the entire wall? Really? That’s way too difficult to decide…

I focused on the black section next to the counter that looked somewhat premium. I chose from here.

How is it? Stylish yet not too flashy, with a nice subdued elegance. I liked it.

My sister-in-law and niece chose a fresh, summery sunflower pattern. This is nice too.
My 5-year-old niece proudly said, “I chose this one!” What kid gets excited about pottery at age 5?

My brother chose this cup with a black background and, for some reason, golden Sakamoto Ryoma printed on it. His aesthetic sense is quite unique.

Afterword

“Gallery Arita” is recommended not only for pottery enthusiasts but also for people who just want to visit a stylish cafe or restaurant.
Searching for your favorite from the hundreds of coffee cups covering the entire wall is an experience that people from children to adults can enjoy!

Tara Town is famous for Takesaki crab, a type of blue crab that feeds on nutrient-rich organisms in the Ariake Sea’s tidal flats, making it exceptionally tasty.

The vast tidal flats formed by the Ariake Sea’s tidal shifts allow plankton and small creatures to bask in sunlight on the exposed mudflats each day. These animals absorb far-infrared rays that enhance flavor, becoming prime food for Takesaki crab, which in turn gains its renowned deliciousness.Takesaki Crab ｜ Tara Town Official Website

At Kani Goten, you can enjoy dishes generously featuring Takesaki crab.

But Kani Goten offers more than crab cuisine. The rooms are modern and immaculate, with breathtaking views. The atmosphere and service are exceptional, making it a ryokan you’ll want to revisit. If you travel around Saga or Nagasaki, I highly recommend staying here!

A Modern Entrance and Lobby with Japanese Flair

Located near the border with Nagasaki Prefecture, Tara Town’s Kani Goten sits almost on the prefectural line.

It’s about a two-hour drive from Fukuoka City and just over an hour from Nagasaki City.

This charming building is Kani Goten.

While driving is most convenient for exploring the area, Kani Goten offers shuttle service from JR Hizen-Ōura Station.

Parking and then stepping inside…

The entrance blends bamboo décor and clean lines, striking a balance between ryokan and hotel.

Guests are welcomed with homemade milk pudding and tea—delicious.

Turning around while enjoying the pudding, you spot a giant crab that might grace your dinner table!

Ocean-View Guest Rooms with Expansive Windows

Every room at Kani Goten offers an ocean view. On my first visit, I chose a standard room—what a view! A sofa faces the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Ariake Sea.

A terrace below is open to guests—perfect for photos and relaxation.

A vanity with mirror sits by the window, seamlessly integrated into the room.

A wall-mounted TV supports terrestrial, BS channels, and YouTube/VOD with smartphone mirroring—though content is limited.

A stylish CD player and Blu-ray player are also provided, great for setting the mood.

The toilet and shower booth showcase thoughtful design.

A welcome message makes guests feel special.

Eight private open-air baths are available for guests at 1,000 yen, with some plans including one hour free. Reservations are made by phone and viewable on TV.

Convenient baskets for bath visits hold guests’ belongings—far more practical than small hotel plastic bags.

The blend of design elegance and practicality is impeccable. Kani Goten delivers.

Top-Floor Open-Air Bath and Yukata Selection

With no one else around, I photographed the rooftop open-air bath’s stunning view—low railings maximize the panorama.

Although labeled “onsen,” the water is mild, focusing more on scenery than minerals.

Nearby, a yukata corner offers many sizes and designs for women (SS–LL), men (S– XXL), and children (S–L).

Crab-themed photo props are ready for memorable snapshots.

A kids’ corner near the dining area ensures families with small children are well catered to.

Enjoying Takesaki Crab at Dinner

For dinner, I chose the standard Takesaki Crab kaiseki plus Saga Wagyu lava-grilled beef (¥1,000 extra). The menu lineup is luxurious, from sashimi to crab, beef, and kamameshi (pot-cooked rice).

Seasonal small dishes and fresh sashimi kick off this indulgence.

Of course, beer paired with dinner is devilishly good… even if I missed the perfect foam shot.

Crispy fried Ariake Sea whitebait and simmered clams whet the appetite until the main course arrives: steamed Takesaki crab.

Each guest received one male and one female crab. Staff expertly crack them open for easy enjoyment—female crab’s orange roe is a special treat.

Compared to snow crab or king crab, Takesaki crab is smaller but packs intense sweetness and umami. Using the crab fork, I savored the meat, tomalley, and roe—delicious.

As a sake lover, I sampled Kani Goten’s sake tasting set featuring Saga’s Nabeshima, Mitsutake, and Hizen Kuragokoro—proof that Saga produces excellent sake.

The lava-grilled Saga Wagyu made dinner doubly impressive. Additional options like live abalone, turban shell, or prawns are available seasonally.

When the Wagyu was nearly finished, the crab pot rice was ready—aromatic and irresistible, with crispy kama-meshi crust and nori soup to finish.

Dessert was elegantly plated, rounding out a superb crab kaiseki dinner.

Free-Drink Lounge and Nighttime Terrace

Past the entrance, a lounge offers free drinks from 19:30–22:00: wine, juices, and lemon water, plus always-available coffee—perfect after bathing or before/after dinner.

The illuminated terrace beyond lounge windows invites nighttime photos or evening breezes.

Next morning, I returned after my bath. Morning free drinks include local amazake and vegetable juice. The sunrise terrace is equally inviting.

Delicious Japanese-Style Breakfast with Special TKG

Breakfast is no afterthought. Fresh-squeezed orange juice greets you at the dining entrance, followed by perfectly cooked Saga Hinokari rice, tamagoyaki, salad, pickles, grilled fish, miso soup, chawanmushi, Takesaki crab shumai, tofu, and a special crab-ryokan TKG (tamago-kake-gohan).

Every detail, from the ikura-like crab shumai to the TKG with custom soy sauce, demonstrates Kani Goten’s dedication.

Afterword

While snow crab and king crab often steal the spotlight, Takesaki crab offers a uniquely rich flavor. Kani Goten not only showcases it superbly but pairs fine service and modern design into an unforgettable experience. As a top choice for any Kyushu trip, I highly recommend Kani Goten!

Ichigen in Kawasoemachi, Saga City: Ultimate tonkotsu with punch and deep flavor / Menmusubi

Ichigen is a Saga ramen shop awarded the top “Chikappa!!” rating by Menmusubi, a dedicated noodle website.
That settled it—I had to try it.

My errand was near Saga Station, and Ichigen is about 20 minutes by bus from there. But buses only come about once an hour.

I checked the Saga City Bus website and booked my train to match the bus schedule.

Aside from Ichigen, this area is mostly fields, factories, and houses. Still, after eating there, I felt it was totally worth the trip.

Ichigen, a popular ramen shop on the outskirts of Saga. Rich yet mellow broth, friendly staff—absolutely worth the journey. Loved the old karaoke place next door too. pic.twitter.com/nf22H19Ko5

— Shotaro Ushijima (@ushigyu) September 22, 2018

If you love ramen, this is definitely a shop to add to your list!

Ichigen: A Famous Saga Ramen Spot About 20 Minutes from Saga Station, Surrounded by Fields & Homes

From Saga Station Bus Center, take the No. 23 bus toward Inuidou / Owatama for about 20 minutes, and get off at Nishikawaso Elementary School Mae.

↓ This is the bus stop for the return trip

Since buses only run about once an hour each way, be sure to check the schedule.
They also have parking, so driving might be easier.

Here’s the road toward Ichigen from the bus stop. As you can see, it’s mostly fields, factories, and houses—pretty quiet countryside.

After about a three-minute walk, you’ll spot Ichigen right next to a charming karaoke snack bar advertising “12 songs for one coin.”

Look for the bright orange sign. There’s parking in front of the shop and across the street.

There were chairs outside, probably for lines. On the door was a helpful diagram showing where the ticket machine was so you wouldn’t get confused.
(I forgot to photograph the machine.)

Because it was right after opening, I got seated immediately. The staff—especially the cheerful, attentive lady—left a great impression. The chef and other workers were also warm and welcoming.
Inside, there’s an L-shaped counter and tatami seating, fairly spacious.

Here they were vigorously stirring a huge pot of simmering pork bones—this is where that delicious broth comes from.

I ordered the tonkotsu ramen with raw egg and a side of gyoza.

A family with kids came in while I waited, and the staff warmly told the slightly embarrassed mom,
“Don’t worry at all! If your kids grow up eating our ramen, maybe they’ll stay fans for life,” (rough translation—it was said in full-on Saga dialect).
Such good people here.

Ichigen’s Tonkotsu Ramen: Gentle, Rich Pork Flavor That Had Me Finishing Every Last Drop

Here’s my ramen with egg. The soup covered the noodles completely.

It’s not common to see raw egg in tonkotsu ramen, but it seemed recommended here, so I tried it.

I always start with the soup. Let’s see…

Rather than a sharp punch, the creamy pork flavor gently filled my mouth and lingered deliciously to the very end. Not a heavy hit up front, but it stayed flavorful throughout.

The char siu was lightly seasoned to complement the broth—thin but firm, full of savory quality.

The noodles were medium-thin, slightly thicker than typical Hakata style. I love thin noodles, but these had a nice chew that paired beautifully with the broth.

The gyoza on the side were crisp and flawless.

About halfway through, I broke the egg yolk—adding a new layer of richness. I tried not to stir too much so I could enjoy both the pure broth and the creamy eggy version.

I almost never finish all the soup in ramen—but this time, the mellow yet lasting flavor had me spooning up every last drop. Incredible.

Final Notes

It’s in a spot that’s hard to visit frequently, but between the wonderful service and cozy atmosphere, it was absolutely worth the trip. No wonder it’s so popular.

If you’re ever in Saga or traveling between Fukuoka and Nagasaki, definitely stop by.

If you love ramen, this is a shop you absolutely must check out!

This facility was created with support from local volunteers to showcase the charm of Arita, a town famous for its pottery.

Standing proudly at the center is a palace modeled after the Zwinger Palace in Dresden, Germany.

The scale is truly impressive. When I first saw it, I couldn’t believe such a palace existed here in Saga!

Saga is full of sights like Ureshino Onsen, the Yoshinogari ruins, and squid from Yobuko. But this Arita Porcelain Park is definitely another place worth stopping by. It’s also incredibly photogenic!

Access & Basic Info for Arita Porcelain Park

Arita is located in western Saga Prefecture, surrounded by other renowned pottery towns like Imari and Hasami.

Arita Porcelain Park sits close to the Nagasaki border within Arita.

It’s about 25 minutes by car from Ureshino Onsen, 30 minutes from Takeo Onsen, an hour from Saga City, and roughly 90 minutes from Fukuoka City.

Because there are no nearby train or bus lines, it’s pretty tough to access without a car.

【Basic Info for Arita Porcelain Park】

A Grand German Palace in Saga’s Arita Porcelain Park

From our hotel in Ureshino Onsen, it took about 25 minutes by car to reach Arita Porcelain Park.

Surrounding the parking lot were European-style houses you’d never see elsewhere in Japan. (Turns out these are eateries that were closed due to COVID.)

There was also an impressive building that looked like a museum. Wait… this is still Saga, right?

Aside from a group of students on what seemed like a field trip, the place was pretty empty. Looking toward the back, we saw a spectacular building come into view.

What on earth is that…?!

It’s a replica of Germany’s Zwinger Palace. I don’t know how it compares to the real thing, but it’s incredible just as it is.

The sculptures and decorations are so intricate and detailed—there’s a lot to take in. Who would have thought you’d find such lavish European architecture in Saga?

Apparently, it was originally built by a well-known pottery company during Japan’s bubble economy. Now it’s run by Munemasa Shuzo, famous for products like Non-noko shochu.
No wonder their shop was playing the Non-noko jingle on repeat.

Inside the palace there’s supposed to be an exhibit on the history of Arita ware, but as of Dec 2022 it was closed due to COVID. Too bad.

By the way, the exhibit has an admission fee (¥600 for adults), but the palace and gardens featured here are completely free to enter.

Palace Views Across a European Garden—Perfect for Photos

Past the palace entrance lies a vast garden. Though a bit brown in winter, the grand European-style grounds are something you’d never see in Japan.

In the middle of the garden is a fountain bubbling out of what’s likely an Arita-ware urn. The view of the palace beyond it is picture-perfect.

I couldn’t stop taking photos. It’s the perfect spot for memorable Saga vacation pictures. Show your friends or family and they’ll probably say, “Wait, that’s in Saga?!”

Note: wedding, commercial, or cosplay photo shoots require a paid permit, so check with Arita Porcelain Park directly.

The grounds are free for casual snapshots. However, any commercial, wedding, or costume photography requires a paid permit. Bringing in equipment or shooting without permission is strictly prohibited.
Arita Porcelain Park

Shift your angle a bit and you’ll catch power lines—suddenly, very Japan.

Still, views of the palace across the garden are stunning. In spring or summer, with flowers and greenery, it must be even more beautiful.

We were lucky to have nice weather, so the blue sky made a great contrast.

If you showed just this photo, probably only 1 out of 100 people would guess it’s Saga.

Since it wasn’t crowded, we took tons of family photos. Totally satisfied.

The Palace at Saga’s Arita Porcelain Park Was Incredible

I’m originally from Nagasaki and now live in Fukuoka, but I had no idea such a grand palace was right next door in Saga.

It deserves way more visitors—what a hidden gem!

The shop also sells pottery, sake, and other Saga souvenirs, so you can browse after checking out the palace.

If you live nearby or are traveling around northern Kyushu, definitely stop by. It’s a fun experience.

This inn is truly luxurious, offering not only Ureshino Onsen’s pure hot spring water, known as one of Japan’s top three for beautiful skin but also premium Saga Beef—a delightful combination.

Though I called it “luxurious,” the cost starts around 30,000 yen for two people with two meals, making it reasonably affordable even for everyday folks like us.

We happened to book the character room with a private bath that was available, so here’s a look inside.

A room filled with Moomin characters, wonderful hot springs, and delicious meals. Highly recommended for families with kids!

Access & Basic Info on “Koyokaku, Saga Beef Inn”

Koyokaku, Saga Beef Inn is a riverside inn located in Ureshino Onsen.

It’s a fairly large building, so it should be easy to spot with a map.

By car, it’s about 1.5 hours from Fukuoka and roughly 50 minutes from Nagasaki.

It’s about a 10-minute walk from Ureshino Bus Center and about 25 minutes on foot from JR Ureshino Onsen Station. If using public transport, the bus is probably more convenient.

As the name suggests, its specialty is Saga Beef, paired with Ureshino’s skin-beautifying hot spring water straight from the source.

They offer standard Japanese and Western rooms, modern Japanese-Western style rooms, and rooms with private or semi-open-air baths.

【Basic Info about Koyokaku】

Rooms & Facilities at Koyokaku

The building of “Koyokaku, Saga Beef Inn” shows a bit of age. (This photo was taken at night since we forgot during the day.)

The lobby has a retro Showa-era ryokan feel, but everything is well cleaned and maintained so there’s nothing off-putting.

The hallway to the room feels even more old-fashioned than the lobby. We did worry a bit if the room itself would be okay…

But inside, it seemed recently renovated—our room was extremely clean and modern.
We stayed in the one and only “Character Room with Private Riverside Bath #503.”

It’s called a “character room,” and as you can see, the character is Moomin.

The entire room is filled with Moomin characters—truly a Moomin Room.

(Note: other rooms appear to be stylish, modern Japanese or Western rooms.)

Starting with a Moomin welcome mat right at the entrance.

Inside, the room is packed with Moomin, Snufkin, Little My, and family merchandise.

There are plush Moomin parents on the bed, with matching pillows and throws.

On the other side of the room is a table for four—where dinner was served (depending on your plan).

Look closely at the living room wallpaper—it’s decorated with Moomin, Snufkin, and Little My.

Above the light switches is Moomin with his girlfriend (apparently called Snorkmaiden).

Fridge and water dispenser.

Sink area. Little My wallpaper, Moomin cups.

Even the toilet is decorated with Moomin characters. With armrests, it’s gentle for the elderly too.

It’s the perfect spot to take photos with all the plush toys. Ideal for Moomin fans and families with young children.

The only place without Moomins is the bath. You can enjoy Ureshino’s hot spring water right in your private bath—such luxury.
(Update: according to my wife, there were Moomins even in this bath. Try spotting them when you visit.)

Lovely open views of nature from the window.

Soon after check-in, we were treated to a cute welcome plate.

Turns out this character room (the Moomin room) was created out of the landlady’s passion. We could tell it was crafted by a true Moomin fan.

The lobby on the first floor has a relaxing space where you can sip coffee, tea, or vegetable juice. In the evening, they even offer free beer and highballs for a set time.

Meals at Koyokaku

Dinner: All-You-Can-Eat Saga Beef Sukiyaki

We chose a plan where dinner was served in our room, featuring Saga Beef sukiyaki.

At dinner time, the staff came to set everything up right on our dining table.

There were sashimi, small dishes, and grated yam with egg for dipping the sukiyaki.

Then came the highlight: beautifully marbled A4-grade or higher Saga Beef, so tender it melts in your mouth! And this was just for two people.

There were lots of veggies, udon noodles to finish, and rice made with Saga-grown rice. We were absolutely stuffed.

The sake cup we ordered along the way was decorated with little rabbits—adorable.

Breakfast with Famous Onsen Yudofu & Roast Beef

For breakfast, we of course had Ureshino Onsen’s signature dish—onsen yudofu (tofu simmered in the unique hot spring water that gently melts it).

You dip the hot spring tofu in sesame sauce. The sheer number of side dishes is what makes ryokan breakfasts special.

They even served Saga Beef roast beef. It was incredibly delicious.

Silky Smooth Source-Fed Hot Springs

While “Saga Beef” is front and center in the name, the hot springs are also outstanding. The large baths, private baths, and even the showers all use 100% natural hot spring water directly from the source.

You can fully enjoy Ureshino Onsen’s silky waters, counted among Japan’s top three beautifying hot springs.

We managed to snap a photo of the large communal bath when no one else was around.

Compared to the modern rooms, it feels “old-fashioned,” but the quality of the water is unbeatable. It’s been ages since we’ve felt such smooth water the instant we got in.

The open-air bath is also fed by the hot spring. Though partially enclosed by fences, it’s on an upper floor so you get a nice view.

Before and after enjoying the baths, you can hydrate with Ureshino tea or fruit-infused water.

And ice cream after a bath hits the spot.

Final Thoughts on Our Stay at “Koyokaku, Saga Beef Inn”

It was an incredibly satisfying stay where we could enjoy both the melt-in-your-mouth Saga Beef and the silky smooth Ureshino hot spring water straight from the source.

And starting at around 18,000 yen per person, it’s surprisingly affordable.

Ureshino Onsen is full of great inns, and we definitely recommend adding Koyokaku, Saga Beef Inn to your list of places to check out!

Thanks to the direct JR Chikuhi Line, which connects to the Fukuoka City Subway, Karatsu is very accessible from central Fukuoka. It takes just over an hour from Tenjin Station to Karatsu Station.

During my visit to Karatsu, I had lunch at a historic eel restaurant called Takeya, established in 1877.

While searching for a good lunch spot during my trip, I stumbled upon this place—and I’m so glad I did. The eel here was outstanding.

Perfectly grilled with a crisp texture and fluffy inside, the eel matched wonderfully with the rice soaked in their secret dashi broth. It might just be the best grilled eel I’ve ever had.

If you’re ever visiting this area, I highly recommend checking out this gem!

Access and Basic Information for Takeya

Takeya is a renowned eel restaurant in Karatsu, Saga Prefecture, located about a 6-minute walk from JR Karatsu Station.

From Tenjin in Fukuoka, you can reach Takeya in about 1 hour and 15 minutes if you’re lucky enough to catch a direct train to Nishi-Karatsu. Even if a transfer at Meinohama is needed, the trip takes about 1 hour and 25 minutes.

【Takeya Basic Information】

Takeya’s Historic Taisho-Era Architecture

After a short walk from JR Karatsu Station, we arrived at Takeya.

Amid the charming streets of Karatsu, the striking Taisho-era façade of the restaurant immediately stood out.

Inside, the atmosphere of a classic Japanese home was incredibly cozy. I wanted to explore every corner, but I held back out of courtesy.

Since we were traveling with a baby, we called ahead and were warmly welcomed. They guided us to a private room perfect for families. In fact, all seating might be semi-private or fully private.

*Note: The photo below was taken after our meal. The room was perfectly tidy when we arrived, so no worries there.

Here’s the menu. Eel bowls range from 4 pieces for ¥2,610 to 8 pieces for ¥4,810. Other options include eel set meals and grilled eel without sauce (shirayaki). (As of September 2022)

We went with the 6-piece eel bowl.

Crispy Eel and Dashi-Infused Rice—A Perfect Match

The eel bowl arrived in a beautiful lacquered container that evoked tradition. It came with pickles on the side.

Opening the lid revealed perfectly grilled eel with a color that instantly stimulates the appetite. It was one of the most delicious-looking dishes I’ve ever seen.

Grilled directly over charcoal without steaming, the eel was crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside—absolutely delicious.

Another standout was the rice made from locally grown Saga Koshihikari.

Unlike typical eel rice bowls where the sauce only coats some of the rice, the rice at Takeya is soaked in dashi, so every bite is flavorful.

It reminded me of dishes like takikomi-gohan or zosui. I’d say “dashi-soaked rice” deserves its own category—it works wonderfully.

Both the atmosphere and the food left a lasting impression. The staff were incredibly kind, and everything was perfect. Thank you for the fantastic meal!

Summary: Why Takeya’s Eel Bowl in Karatsu Is a Must-Try

I’ve had eel in many places, but Takeya in Karatsu is now a top contender for my all-time favorite.

Saga also has many other great attractions—famous squid from Yobuko, Saga beef, Ureshino and Takeo hot springs, and pottery towns.

If you’re traveling in Saga, make sure to try Takeya’s eel—it’s an experience you won’t forget!

While traveling around Kyushu with the JR Seishun 18 Pass, I took the opportunity to visit Yobuko for some authentic local squid!

There are many restaurants specializing in squid, but I chose to visit a place called Ika Honke.

They serve live squid sashimi and many other delicious squid dishes, including tempura — all of which were truly amazing!

Yobuko, one of Japan’s top squid destinations – about 30 minutes by bus from JR Karatsu Station

If you’re traveling by public transport, it takes about 30 minutes by bus from JR Karatsu Station to reach Yobuko.

Known as one of Japan’s most famous squid-producing regions, Yobuko is full of fishing boats.

The famous Yobuko Morning Market is nearby as well.

Rotating dried squid — only in Yobuko!

I even filmed a video. It’s oddly mesmerizing to watch them spin.

Ika Honke’s main restaurant — also featured in the film “Akunin”

This time, I visited the main location of the well-known Ika Honke.

There was a face-in-hole photo panel — and yes, it’s shaped like a squid body!

Apparently, this restaurant was a filming location for the movie “Akunin”, starring Eri Fukatsu and Satoshi Tsumabuki.
I’m not sure how it fits in with the story — but interesting nonetheless!

Let’s head inside!

Right near the entrance is a large tank full of live squid — these are what we’re about to eat.

We were guided to a spacious tatami room on the second floor.

The view of Yobuko’s harbor from the window was lovely.

Here’s the menu — packed with seafood, especially squid.
I went with the live squid sashimi set meal. For an extra 400 yen or so, I upgraded the rice to sushi.

Enjoying a luxurious squid feast with live sashimi, shumai, and tempura

Here it comes — the squid sashimi! It’s so clear and still moving!

Chewy and incredibly tasty!

Next came the rest of the meal.

The sushi was also fantastic.

Squid, squid, and more squid — nearly every dish featured squid, with only a few exceptions.

Squid shumai!

Those eyes though — intense stare!

After enjoying the raw squid, they turned the remaining parts into tempura.
This tempura was incredibly good — one of the best I’ve ever had.

For dessert, instead of kabosu juice, we got kabosu jelly — also delicious.

If you’re in Yobuko for squid, Ika Honke is a great choice

As expected from a town famous for squid, the seafood here was absolutely top-notch.

While it’s a bit out of the way without a car, it’s totally worth the trip. Seriously — don’t miss it!