Despite being located in central Naha, this is a precious spot where you can enjoy delicious, homestyle Okinawan cooking.

My hometown of Nagasaki is famous for Chanpon, but I was shocked to discover that Okinawa serves a completely different dish with the same name…!

Mikado – An Authentic Okinawan Dining Spot in Central Naha

Here’s the exterior. The character of the font is wonderful.

Quite an impactful sign. But that’s what makes it great.

Remarkably, this restaurant operates 24 hours a day.
I wish we had one near me…

Inside, Okinawan mothers prepare the food for guests.

Mysterious artwork on the wall.

The menu features both standard items and distinctly Okinawan dishes like champuru.

Distinctly Okinawan Cuisine Different from Mainland Japan

When I first came, I ordered katsudon (breaded pork cutlet over rice).

You might wonder why ordering katsudon in Okinawa, but it’s slightly different from regular (or as Okinawans call it, “mainland”) katsudon.

As you can see, it’s loaded with cabbage and carrots.
According to the restaurant’s explanation, the Okinawan mama here adds plenty of vegetables for nutritional balance. Delicious!

The side dish is mozuku (sea grape). Very Okinawan.

There was another menu item I was curious about, so I decided to return the next day.

That item was Okinawan Chanpon.

Chanpon is famous as a specialty dish from my hometown of Nagasaki.
I wondered what Okinawan chanpon would be like…

This is Okinawan chanpon!

Clearly a completely different dish. This is a rice bowl dish…

It’s a dish with vegetables and corned beef mixed with egg over rice.
Okinawan “chanpon” is an entirely different dish!

Want Authentic Okinawan Food in Central Naha? Mikado Comes Highly Recommended!

I’ve grown quite fond of Mikado and now visit whenever I have business in Naha’s central area.

Enjoying authentic Okinawan food in an unpretentious dining spot like this is truly a wonderful experience.

Since I was there, I decided to visit the Orion Beer factory tour!

The factory is located in Nago, a city in Okinawa Prefecture.

View larger map

The tour facility is called Orion Happy Park.

Entrance is through this gate.

Same-day visits are possible if there’s availability, but advance reservations are recommended.

There’s also a dining space where lunch buffets are available.

Right at the entrance are large brewing kettles on display.

Before the factory tour, visitors wait at the top of the escalator.

There’s the ORION Retro Museum where you can learn a bit about ORION’s history.

There’s also a recreation of an old Okinawan shop.

There was nothing like this near my hometown, yet it feels strangely nostalgic.

There are also vintage newspapers on display.

A collection of historical Orion Beer cans. Even the old designs were quite stylish.

And here are vintage bottles.

You can also see barrel-filling machinery through glass. (Though it wasn’t operating at the time…)

When the brewery guide arrives, the factory tour begins.

…However, unfortunately photography isn’t allowed during the tour, so there are no photos from that section.

At the end of the tour, a display shows how much Orion Beer is produced in just one minute.
It’s quite impressive production volume!

After the tour, visitors can enjoy free beer tastings in the adjacent space. You can even exchange your badge for a refill of canned beer.

For non-drinkers and drivers, soft drinks are also available.

Fresh beer, produced 3 days to 1 week prior, is poured for guests.

Looks delicious! And it was!

Turmeric jelly and peanut snacks are also included.
These were surprisingly delicious too.

If you’re in the area or visiting Okinawa for tourism, why not stop by?

工場見学と施設のご案内 - オリオンビール

オリオンハッピーパークへようこそ。工場見学と施設内のご案内です。ショップなど。

www.orionbeer.co.jp

I had never seen these markers in my hometown of Nagasaki or my current residence in Fukuoka, or anywhere else for that matter. Yet on Miyako Island, they seemed to appear everywhere.

So what does this character mean, and how is it read? I decided to investigate.

The Meaning Behind Ishigando Markers Found Throughout Miyako Island

The markers I spotted looked like this.
They appeared to be deliberately placed at locations where roads intersect.

The designs vary—some are mounted on proper stone plaques, while others appear to be written directly on walls.

This one is also at an intersection, as expected.

After searching online, I found the following information on Wikipedia:

This tradition originated in China, with Fujian Province as the birthplace. In Japan, these markers are concentrated on Okinawa’s main island and scattered throughout the surrounding islands. Many also exist in Kagoshima Prefecture, including the Satsunans and the Amami Islands. While they can be found throughout Japan outside of Okinawa and Kagoshima, their numbers are minimal. In Okinawa Prefecture, they are called “ishigandou” or “ishigantou,” while in Kagoshima Prefecture they are often called “sekkantou.” A supernatural creature known as “Majimun” (a demon) that wanders through towns is believed to move in straight lines only. When it crashes into dead-end streets like T-intersections or three-way junctions, it is thought to enter the house across the way. Therefore, Ishigando markers are placed at the dead-ends of T-intersections and three-way junctions to prevent the demon’s entry, serving as protective talismans. It is believed that when a Majimun strikes an Ishigando marker, it shatters into pieces.

So that’s what it means.

Now it makes sense!

Final Thoughts

I didn’t recall seeing these on Okinawa’s main island, perhaps because travel there is mostly by car. But next time I visit, I’ll make a point to look for them.

I learned something new!

Made with abundant spices used on Ishigaki Island, this chili oil is said to elevate any dish it’s added to, earning rave reviews.

The husband-and-wife duo who created Ishigaki chili oil run a dining establishment on the island called Penguin Shokudo (ペンギン食堂).

Though it may seem like a somewhat clichéd famous spot, you can enjoy dishes made with Ishigaki chili oil and local island produce, and purchase bottles of the chili oil as well!

Penguin Shokudo: Where Ishigaki Chili Oil Was Born

This Western-style restaurant is the Penguin Shokudo I was looking for, located within walking distance of downtown Ishigaki Island.
I arrived around opening time.

They asked if I had a reservation, apparently because the place is popular and seats fill up quickly.
Since I was dining alone, I had no trouble getting seated. Great!

Despite the name “shokudo” (casual eatery), the interior has a stylish, bar-like aesthetic.
The service wasn’t provided by the husband-and-wife owners, but by two handsome men who resembled bar masters.

Lunch menu. The focus is on Ishigaki chili oil dishes and items featuring Okinawan and Ishigaki Island ingredients.
Since I love mapo tofu, I ordered the “Ishigaki Chili Oil Mapo Tofu Rice Bowl.”

The Unique Depth and Flavor of Ishigaki Chili Oil – Absolutely Delicious!

Here’s the mapo tofu bowl. It looks delicious just from the presentation!

It looks spicy at first glance, but the heat level isn’t actually that intense.
The flavor is distinctly different from ordinary chili oil—unique and wonderful. Delicious indeed.
The bonito dashi broth is delicious too.

Bottles of Ishigaki chili oil sit on every table for free use.

I couldn’t resist adding more!

My food writing vocabulary is limited, and I can’t quite capture it properly, but this flavor is certainly addictive enough to convert plenty of people.
It’s delicious straight over rice, works perfectly as a main seasoning, or adds depth as a secret ingredient to other dishes.

To finish, they served homemade tea infused with lemongrass.

Purchasing Ishigaki Chili Oil at the Miscellaneous Café “Ishigaki Penguin”

When I mentioned I wanted to buy Ishigaki chili oil, they gave me a ticket and a map. Apparently you can’t purchase it at this restaurant.
Using the map, I headed to a shop called “Ishigaki Penguin.”

It was about a 5-minute walk away.

The storefront resembles a stylish miscellaneous goods shop.

The interior is also stylish.
When I presented my ticket, I was able to purchase the Ishigaki chili oil.

Looking closely at the signage outside, there’s a notice like this. That day, I was apparently able to purchase it simply by visiting the shop.
It seems that on some days inventory may run out, but I’m still not entirely clear on what role the restaurant-to-shop ticket system plays. Maybe it’s for reserving stock when items are unavailable?

Now, what should I do with this Ishigaki chili oil I’ve acquired?
I’m thinking of trying it sprinkled over rice or mixed into mapo tofu.

Final Thoughts

If you’re visiting Ishigaki Island and looking for a restaurant, I definitely recommend Penguin Shokudo!

The Ishigaki chili oil is also available on Amazon and similar platforms (though slightly more expensive than the ¥800 retail price).

If you can’t make it to the island but want to experience the taste, you can order it online!

This establishment is popular not just for its food, but also for the chef’s performance.

What kind of techniques will be on display?

Sam’s Sailor Inn – A Popular Spot on Naha’s Kokusai Street

Heading down the sunny Kokusai Street toward the target restaurant, Sam’s Sailor Inn.

Even though it’s a weekend in June—normally a quiet tourist season—the street is packed. That’s the power of the tourist-filled Kokusai Street.

Arrived at Sam’s Sailor Inn!

A striking chef sign greeted us.

Entering the ship-themed exterior.

The interior is also designed like a ship’s cabin.

Descending the stairs…

To a basement hall-like space.

Teppanyaki Steak and Souvenir-Included Drinks

Finding our seats and selecting from the menu.
(I forgot to photograph it, but lunch teppanyaki and seafood courses typically range from late ¥1,000s to ¥2,000s.)

I chose the ¥2,450 “Sirloin Steak Sam’s Cut.”

Various beverages are available, and some come with souvenir containers.
(Our group didn’t order any—the containers would have been too much baggage!)

Essentially all menu items come with a course.
First comes curry soup, poured from a cafeteria-style tureen.

Delicious. The garlic-infused croutons were a nice touch.

Meanwhile, sauces are prepared. Mild on the left, spicy on the right.

Salad with four dressing choices.
Fresh and well-prepared.

Enjoying Both Chef Performance and Cuisine

Finally, the chef and meat arrive!
With practiced hands, the chef skillfully cuts the meat.

Rapid-fire pepper slicing! The hands move too fast to see!

Rhythmically grinding pepper.

Now comes the Okinawa heartthrob chef’s performance—flames erupt!
Tossing salt and pepper cans like juggling balls while seasoning the vegetables.

I was worried whether everything got seasoned properly with that tossing method, but it was perfectly flavored and delicious.

Now for the main event—the meat!

Sizzle!

A quiet American (probably) chef appears, and now two chefs work together to cook the meat.

Sizzle!

The finished sirloin steak. Delicious!

The finishing vegetables are seasoned with synchronized performance from both chefs.

A delicious meal!

Recommended for Tourists Seeking Both Flavor and Entertainment

Though Okinawa generally has cheap prices, this restaurant charges tourist prices. The service can vary depending on the chef—some are very entertaining, others quiet. That said, if you visit Okinawa, this is definitely an interesting place worth experiencing once.

Thank you for the meal!

It’s just a 50-minute high-speed ferry ride from Naha, but the ocean is incredibly beautiful. And because there are few lights, the night sky is absolutely stunning with stars everywhere.

Colorful tropical fish, sea turtles if you’re lucky, pristine turquoise waters, and a sky overflowing with stars—the experience moved me deeply.

I took lots of photos, so I’d like to share this report with you!

Ferry from Naha to Akajima Island: Staying at Guesthouse Minshuku Tomizato

From Tomari Port in Naha City, I took the “Queen Zamami” high-speed ferry to Akajima.

From Okinawa’s main island to Akajima, there are two transport options: the Queen Zamami (high-speed ferry) running 3 times daily with a 50-minute trip, and the Ferry Zamami (regular ferry) running once daily with a 90-minute trip.
(Schedules vary by season, so check the Zamami Village Official Website)

It wasn’t an especially rough day, but the ferry did rock quite a bit. I heard that in stormy weather it gets pretty intense.
Apparently the regular ferry rocks less than the high-speed ferry.

We arrived at Akajima!

The guesthouse had sent a vehicle to pick us up.

Through the trees, emerald green beach and ocean. Absolutely stunning!
We also spotted wild deer in the vegetation.

This is the Minshuku Tomizato (Tula Tu) where I was staying.
Though we arrived by vehicle, it’s less than a 10-minute walk from the port. The settlement itself is small and compact, so most accommodations and shops cluster in this area.

My room had character.
It had air conditioning, so it was quite comfortable.

I arrived in late afternoon when dinner was coming up soon, but I couldn’t resist heading to the beach. I went to Nishi Beach (read as “Nishi,” confusingly), Akajima’s most famous and largest beach.

When I went snorkeling, the clear water was full of fish. This looked like it would be really fun to explore!

Back at the guesthouse, dinner was ready. Fried grouper, sashimi, meat, sea grapes, salad, soup—such a variety and everything delicious!
All the guests ate together at a long table, which reminded me of summer camp.

Okinawan “Yuntaku” with Guests and the Owner: Spectacular Starry Night

The sun was setting.

“Yuntaku” time, common at Okinawan guesthouses.
The whole group gathers in a large room at night, drinks, and chats—that’s what yuntaku means.
Here, they served us awamori (Okinawan spirits).

And snacks too! Bonito seasoned with just salt. Delicious!

After that, we headed to a nearby beach to watch the stars. My camera couldn’t capture it, but I was moved to tears by the starry sky—more stars than I’d ever seen before. Just seeing that view made the whole trip worthwhile.

Swimming with Sea Turtles at Akajima Beach

The next morning, breakfast.

By the way, while my room had some age to it, the second floor seemed to be a recent addition—it was brand new and very clean.

Filling up for the ocean adventures ahead.

I hopped on the free rental bike to “Akajima Beach,” where I’d heard from yuntaku that sea turtles could be spotted.

I brought my own snorkeling gear, but the guesthouse also loans equipment free of charge.
(Some guesthouses charge, so check in advance.)

I arrived at Akajima Beach, right near the port.
Nishi Beach from yesterday is more famous, but this beach is packed with fish too. And sea turtles live here!

This is blurry because it’s a screenshot from iPhone video in a waterproof case, but I successfully encountered a sea turtle. Swimming so close alongside it was an incredible experience!
(The turtle doesn’t flee from people, but don’t touch it!)

But operating through a waterproof case is inconvenient, and it’s hard to get good focus.

Next time, I’m bringing a waterproof camera.

Brilliant Blue Waters Seen from Akajima Bridge

The ocean around the port and Akajima Bridge. Beautiful.

For lunch, I went to “Parlor Miyama,” one of the few island restaurants.

You can eat while gazing at the beach and ocean.

Curry, and on a whim I ordered a beer too.

While I was at it, I decided to cross the Akajima Bridge and venture to Gechi Island, which is accessible by land.
The view of the ocean from that bridge is the most vibrant blue—the most striking sight of my visit. It looked this blue straight from the iPhone with no editing… you really should see it in person.

After pedaling hard up and down hilly terrain, I reached Kerama Airport.
But since the airport is no longer in use, there was literally nothing there.

Not a soul around. (Though maybe someone was inside the building?)

No planes or anything—just empty grounds. Probably didn’t need to visit, haha.

Before heading back, I snorkeled at Nishi Beach one more time to my heart’s content.

The ride back was in the bed of a pickup truck from the guesthouse to the port. That was nice too.

It was a wonderful trip.

The return ferry was surprisingly crowded.

The indoor seating was full, so despite the heat, I headed to the outdoor deck.

From atop the breakwater, the guesthouse owner and other guests waved goodbye to us departing visitors.

And then, for some reason, they jumped in. Haha!
Apparently that’s a normal way to see people off here (or at least at this guesthouse).

Final Thoughts

It was my first time visiting such a small island in Okinawa, but I had such wonderful experiences—the ocean, the stars—it was beyond words.

The guesthouse had many repeat customers, and now I understand why.

Next time I visit Okinawa, I definitely want to return to Akajima! It’s a special place.

The gelato is supposedly incredible, and you can enjoy it while overlooking the ocean and sunset from an amazing location.


That sounded like something I had to check out, so I rented a motorbike and headed there!

Mirumiru Honpo: Homemade Gelato and Burgers with Ocean Views

This sign marks “Mirumiru Honpo.”
Located in the southwestern part of Ishigaki Island, it’s set back a bit from the main road. The surroundings are mostly farmland.

For directions, refer to the map below.

At first glance, it looks like a stylish bakery or café in a single house.

Don’t hesitate to enter!

Operating hours are 10:00 AM “until sunset.” I like that concept.

The interior of the shop. Time to order!

The star here is definitely the gelato!
There are 12 flavors—from standard milk to creations using Okinawan and Ishigaki island specialties. You can choose two, which creates a delightfully difficult decision…

They also serve burgers, fresh-squeezed milk, beef rice bowls, taco rice, and curry rice. It’s suitable if you want a regular meal too.
I ordered the Mirumiru Burger Set, which includes a burger, drink, and gelato.

Stunning Gelato with Ocean Views Stretching Before You!

Outside the shop, there’s seating overlooking the ocean! Even in the heat, you want to sit outside.
Though hard to see in the photo, there are many celebrity signatures displayed.

The Ishigaki Island ocean spreads out before you.
I didn’t have time to stay for it this visit, but the sunset apparently sinks directly ahead and looks stunning.

You can also climb onto the roof. The view from up there is excellent too.
Though it seemed there were no seats placed up there.

Gazing at the ocean, I enjoy my burger and milk.

The patty is thick with great texture and substance. Delicious.

The milk tastes somewhat different from what I normally drink.
I’m not sure how to describe it, but it tastes like milk should—pure and authentic.

For gelato, I chose island banana and purple sweet potato.
Both have a milk base, but the creamy, rich flavor is enhanced by the banana aroma and the sweetness of the purple potato—absolutely delicious. No wonder this place is so popular!

The heat drove me indoors for a bit, but I didn’t want to miss this view, so I grabbed my gelato and moved back outside.
What a luxurious moment.

Final Thoughts

If you visit Ishigaki Island, this is definitely one of the shops you should check out.
Its popularity is well-deserved.

Try to time your visit for a sunny day during sunset hour to enjoy the best experience!

On my recent trip to Ishigaki Island, I wanted to try Yaeyama soba—a local variation of Okinawa soba. The guesthouse owner recommended “Kunatsuyu,” so I visited and enjoyed the charming building, the gently flavored broth, and the set’s jūshī rice. It was delicious!

Kunatsuyu: Yaeyama Soba Just Outside Ishigaki Town

A short walk from Ishigaki’s center, behind an elementary school, is Kunatsuyu—a lunch-only Yaeyama soba shop housed in a welcoming home.

Inside, the décor feels like a stylish private home. I arrived right at opening, and soon locals and tourists began to fill the seats.

Local condiments—Island chili, Ishigaki salt, and Taketomi salt—line the counter.

Although I forgot the menu photo, Yaeyama soba costs ¥350 for small, ¥450 for medium, and ¥550 for large. I chose the ¥600 Yaeyama soba set, which includes jūshī or red rice.

Delicate, Flavorful Broth and Tasty Jūshī

Here’s my Yaeyama soba set—let’s eat!

First, the soba noodles—thick like champon, straight, and slightly soft.

The broth is exquisitely light yet deeply savory—a comforting flavor.

Toppings: fish cake and pork. This appears to be the standard Yaeyama soba garnish.

The jūshī rice is seasoned with shiitake mushrooms, burdock, and chicken in a light style. From a Fukuoka perspective, mixed rice usually evokes rich chicken rice, but this lighter version with greens is refreshing and equally delicious.

Afterword

Mainland Okinawa soba features flat, curly noodles and abundant toppings, whereas Yaeyama soba offers a lighter broth, thicker straight noodles, and different garnishes. Okinawa’s regional soba varieties are wonderfully diverse. Be sure to try Kunatsuyu on your next Ishigaki Island visit!

On a recent expedition to Ishigaki Island, I was eager to try Ishigaki beef. With evening plans, I asked on Twitter for a lunchtime recommendation. A friend suggested “Ishinagiya,” a dedicated Ishigaki beef restaurant where you can even get a beef bowl for under ¥1,000 at lunch. I decided to splurge on their Special Ishigaki Beef Assortment!

Ishinagiya: Affordable and Authentic Ishigaki Beef

Ishinagiya is a short walk from Ishigaki’s town center.

Opposite, a shop sells gift-grade Ishigaki beef.

Inside, sleek black decor—when I arrived at opening, it was empty, but soon tourists and locals streamed in for lunch.

The lunch menu starts with a beef bowl (regular ¥780) and goes up to a yakiniku course at ¥1,800.

I chose the Special Ishigaki Beef Assortment (¥2,980)—what a treat!

Marvel at the Beautiful Marbling—No Words Needed

The platter arrives with five cuts: sirloin, premium sirloin, misuji (chuck flap), kalbi (short rib), and premium kalbi. Just look at that marbling…

They provide rich sauce, light sauce, and Ishigaki salt for dipping.

Then it’s all about grilling and eating—grill, eat, repeat!

Photographing yakiniku is tough, but trust me, each melt-in-your-mouth bite was heavenly.

As staff suggested, the salt particularly let the beef’s pure flavor shine.

Afterword

On Ishigaki, alongside Yaeyama soba, Ishigaki beef is a must-try. Among the island’s top spots, Ishinagiya comes highly recommended!

Behold the “Texas Gate”!

After riding a bit, I approached a ranch where wild Yonaguni horses roam (on open land accessible to the public). Is that the Texas Gate…? What is that?

There’s no gate structure—just eight narrow grooves cut perpendicular across the road.

Indeed, you could catch a wheel if you’re careless, but riding a scooter, car, or bicycle straight over it just results in a bumpy ride. On foot, it’s nothing more than a shallow trench you step over carefully.

Yet for horses, those grooves must be a challenge to place hooves on or simply unpleasant enough that they avoid crossing.

Installed Around the Yonaguni Horse Habitat

These Texas Gates encircle the areas where Yonaguni horses live, preventing them from wandering into villages or near the airport.

Inside the ranch area, even during roadwork, the Yonaguni horses roam freely—an amusing sight.

Afterword

The name “Texas Gate” conjured images of a sturdy wooden gate, so I never expected mere road grooves. It’s ingenious that something so simple can effectively deter horses.

I started exploring Okinawa’s remote islands about three years ago and have visited a variety of them every year since.

From breathtaking beaches and star-filled skies to towns untouched by urbanization or over-tourism, each island has its own charm you can’t find on the mainland.


This time, I visited Minnajima, one of the most accessible remote islands in Okinawa. It’s just a 15-minute ferry ride from the main island, with more frequent departures compared to other islands, making it very convenient.

Despite its accessibility, Minnajima boasts stunningly clear waters, offering great swimming and beach activities just like the more remote islands!

Boarding the Ferry to Minnajima from Toguchi Port in Northern Okinawa

Ferries to Minnajima depart from Toguchi Port in northern Okinawa.

Though it’s a bit of a drive from Naha, it’s close to the Churaumi Aquarium and Sesoko Island, so it’s easy to include in your itinerary. From the aquarium, it’s about a 12-minute drive.

Reservations aren’t available, so just head to the waiting area and purchase a round-trip ticket for 1,710 yen per adult.

According to Minnajima’s official site, there are also packages available that include ferry tickets and a BBQ.

Enjoy Swimming and Marine Activities at Minnajima Beach, Okinawa

There is a waiting area, but we were short on time and boarded right away.

We boarded this colorful ferry.

As with other island ferries, the majority of passengers were Asian tourists. You could hear Chinese being spoken all around.

And we’re off!

The ride is just 15 minutes. It may rock a bit, but it’s so short that most people won’t have any issues.

Arriving at Minnajima—The Water Color is Unreal!

As the ferry approaches Minnajima, the water becomes noticeably lighter.

By the time you dock, you’re greeted with an incredibly vivid blue.

We arrived at a small dock—not quite large enough to be called a port.

Wow—it’s stunning! Just 15 minutes from the main island, and the scenery is on a whole other level.

Blue ocean, white sand—passengers eagerly disembark.

It’s convenient to arrive already wearing your swimsuit, but there are changing rooms, shops, and showers available on the island.

With only about 40 residents, the island is entirely centered around beach tourism. It’s even nicknamed “Croissant Island” because of its shape.

There are three beach shops that rent out parasols, beach mats, chairs, and floats. It’s hard to tell the differences in price or quality as they all try to call out to you.

Okinawa’s main island has beaches, but few match the beauty of those on remote islands. Minnajima is no exception.

You’ll see some fish near shore, but not much live coral. For serious snorkeling, you may want to join a tour offshore where you can spot more vibrant coral and fish.

Blue sea, blue sky, white sand, rows of parasols—this is a true beach resort scene.

Whether you want to lounge on a chair or play in the sand, it’s up to you.

I also brought along a RICOH THETA S to capture 360° photos and videos.

At Minnajima, Okinawa #theta360 – Spherical Image – RICOH THETA

Even if you’re short on time, Minnajima is a great spot for a quick island getaway.

Final Thoughts

The beaches in Okinawa are beautiful compared to most places in Japan, but if you want something even more spectacular, visit one of the remote islands.

Minnajima is the perfect recommendation for that!

I stayed at the hotel “Tokyu Stay Okinawa Naha” on short notice, and it was so good that I wanted to share my experience.

I think it’s no exaggeration to say that this hotel meets all the requirements for a business hotel in Naha, Okinawa.

If you’re looking for a business hotel in central Naha, I highly recommend it!

Tokyu Stay Okinawa Naha – Excellent Access and Convenience, Spacious Lobby Perfect for Work

Tokyu Stay Okinawa Naha is located just a 3-minute walk from Tsubogawa Station, which is 4 stops (10 minutes) from Naha Airport Station on the Yui Rail.

The 1st and 2nd floors house the famous discount store “Don Quijote,” making it extremely easy to find and very convenient for shopping.
You can see the entrance to Tokyu Stay Okinawa Naha on the right side of the photo.

Take the elevator to the front desk on the 5th floor. Wow, this is incredibly spacious and beautiful.
As expected from a hotel that opened in February 2020 and hasn’t even been open for two years yet.

The surrounding area is well-equipped with sofa seating and table areas, making it perfect for laptop work, reading, waiting, or brief meetings at the hotel.

I didn’t use it this time, but this is probably the breakfast area. It’s bright and spacious.

There’s an even larger space next to the elevator. I worked on my laptop here for a while and it was extremely comfortable. Of course, the entire building has Wi-Fi.

Amenities are available for free pickup from the front desk floor.

Stylish and Simple Resort-Style Interior Design, Still New and Clean

Each room has a unique sea creature symbol, possibly inspired by the Churaumi Aquarium. Our room had a whale.

While this is technically categorized as a business hotel, it’s great that it doesn’t have the typical bland, sterile bed and room design.

You can somewhat feel a resort atmosphere. After all, it would be boring to stay in the same type of business hotel you’d find in other prefectures when you’ve come all the way to Okinawa.

That said, it’s not overdone – the amenities and interior design are overall simple and perfectly adequate.

There’s a refrigerator, a BALMUDA kettle, and a surprisingly convenient space next to the sink.

There’s also a drum-type washer-dryer, making it suitable for long-term stays.

The unit bath is still new and sparkling clean.

The view is a standard city view, but it’s unobstructed and gets plenty of light and air, so it’s perfectly adequate.

Final Thoughts

Good access from Naha Airport and Kokusai Street, no inconvenience for shopping or dining, simple and clean facilities with a touch of resort atmosphere.

I think it’s fair to say that all the elements required of a ‘business hotel in Naha, Okinawa’ are packed into this hotel. Highly recommended!

Each island has its unique charm, but considering factors like cost, travel time, and overall experience, I usually suggest the Kerama Islands—specifically Aka Island and Zamami Island—as they are conveniently close to Naha.

Zamami Island is accessible via a ferry ride of about an hour from Tomari Port in Naha.

With a population of approximately 600, this small island lacks high-rise buildings and resort hotels.

The island’s quaint streets and friendly locals offer a soothing atmosphere, and its breathtakingly beautiful sea is sure to leave a lasting impression. It’s a destination I highly recommend visiting at least once.

Exploring Zamami Island, Part of the Kerama National Park: Enjoying Local Homestays

From Naha’s Tomari Port, you can reach Zamami Island in about 1 to 1.5 hours via the high-speed ferry “Queen Zamami” or the regular ferry “Ferry Zamami.”

For the first night of my two-night stay, I booked a room at “Iyashi no Yado Kushi” (Note: As of 2023, this establishment has closed). Since online reservations through platforms like Jalan or Rakuten Travel weren’t available for this guesthouse, I made the booking via phone.

This was my room for the night. There was no television or lock on the door, but that simplicity added to the charm.
(The central room does have a TV, and of course, there are toilets and showers available.)

Eager to explore, I grabbed my snorkeling gear and headed to the sea! The host kindly drove me to Furuzamami Beach.

The sea was incredibly beautiful! While there were quite a few Asian tourists, it wasn’t overcrowded, allowing for a relaxing swim in the pristine waters.

The water’s clarity was astounding.

In the evening, the guesthouse owner, a local, took us to a spot known for its stunning sunsets.

Unfortunately, clouds obscured the setting sun that day. Nevertheless, the panoramic view of the island and surrounding sea was a remarkable experience.

That night, I joined other guests at a recommended izakaya called “Marumiya.”

• Marumiya｜Zamami Tourist Guide Map Official Website

We toasted with Awamori and enjoyed fresh bonito caught in the nearby sea.

The next day, as I was moving to a different accommodation, we took a group photo to commemorate our stay. A cherished memory.

Renting a Bicycle for Island Exploration and Snorkeling at Beautiful Beaches

On the second day, I stayed at a guesthouse called “Nakayamagwa” (Note: As of 2023, this establishment has closed).
Interestingly, many of the guests were foreigners, particularly from France, and they were preparing delicious-looking meals at the entrance.

Unlike the previous guesthouse, there were no guided sunset tours (perhaps a unique service offered by “Iyashi no Yado Kushi”), but the rooftop provided a panoramic view of the port. Depending on the season, the stars are said to be spectacular. Upon check-in, the staff also provided recommendations for local eateries and attractions.

The room was relatively spacious and equipped with air conditioning.

That day, I decided to rent a bicycle to explore the island. I headed to a bicycle rental shop I’d spotted the day before.

To my surprise, it operated on a self-service basis. You simply declare your rental duration, drop a 500-yen coin into the designated box, and take a bicycle of your choice. A uniquely island-style system.

Using the map provided by the guesthouse and Google Maps, I set off on my journey.

First, lunch! I visited a popular Okinawa soba restaurant on the island called Wayama Mozuku.

• Mozuku Soba Wayama Mozuku｜Zamami Tourist Guide Map Official Website

Primarily a boat snorkeling tour operator, they also serve soba during lunchtime.

As the name suggests, the soba noodles are made with mozuku seaweed kneaded into the dough. The broth was rich and flavorful—a satisfying lunch.

Back again to Furuzamami Beach!

This time I brought along my Sony action cam with waterproof housing and a monopod to capture underwater photos and videos.

This is the result! It captured the scenery quite well, although with no live preview, I had to take multiple shots and hope for the best.

The coral and fish were beautiful.

I kept swimming non-stop, completely absorbed, but made sure to rest now and then on the beach.

I even encountered sea turtles and clownfish!

Enjoying Local Cuisine at Zamami’s Izakayas

That night, I visited a popular izakaya called “Santa (Sanra).”

• Santa | Zamami Tourist Guide Map Official Website

Compared to the izakaya from the previous night, this one had a trendier atmosphere and more tourists. The food was delicious!

Final Thoughts

Zamami Island offers easy access from Naha and a chance to enjoy island life and stunning beaches.

If you’ve only visited Okinawa’s main island, this is a perfect destination to experience something a little different. I wholeheartedly recommend it!

The soba is served with tender, large pieces of Tebichi and a rich, bonito-flavored broth.

Since this is a popular restaurant, be prepared for a wait! The exterior is impressive, making it a great spot to visit while traveling.

Nanbu Soba – A Popular Spot in Itoman, Southern Okinawa

Nanbu Soba is located in Itoman City, in the southern part of Okinawa.

It takes about 25 minutes by car from Naha Airport.

I arrived just after 1:00 PM, thinking the lunchtime rush would have died down, but it was still quite crowded. This place is definitely a local favorite.

The entrance – a grand and impressive facade.

There are indoor seating options, but…

Since the weather was nice, I decided to sit outside.

Here’s the menu. They offer regular Soki Soba and Okinawa Soba, but of course, I had to go for their signature “Nanbu Soba.”

I didn’t order it, but they also had a dessert called “Zenzai.”

It didn’t look like the Zenzai I know—it was more like a shaved ice dessert.

Previously, I introduced Okinawa’s unique version of ‘Chanpon’, and it just goes to show how Okinawan cuisine has some very distinctive names!

They also offered Tebichi (pork trotters) as a standalone dish.

The Signature ‘Nanbu Soba’ – A Classic Okinawa Soba with Melt-in-Your-Mouth Tebichi

Here it is—the famous Nanbu Soba!

Two large, slow-simmered pork trotters sit on top.

And they are thick!

Meat with bones can sometimes be tricky to eat, but these Tebichi were so tender that they easily separated from the bone.

The noodles are flat and chewy, while the soup has a clear, amber color with a rich dashi flavor, similar to udon broth in western Japan.

Unlike the typical Okinawa Soba, which is topped with sliced pork belly, this version with tender Tebichi gives it a more distinctly Okinawan flavor. It was absolutely delicious!

Nanbu Soba – A Must-Visit Spot Near Naha

Since it’s relatively close to Naha, this is definitely a great option for travelers looking to try authentic Okinawa Soba.

Just writing this makes me want to go back again. Highly recommended!

The beauty of the sea is unparalleled, and the undeveloped, charming towns, warm people, and peaceful atmosphere are absolutely captivating.

After visiting “Akajima” last year, this time I decided to explore Zamami Island.

Both islands are small, with populations under 1,000, and are part of the Kerama Islands, a stunning national park surrounded by some of the clearest waters in the world.

In terms of accessibility and quality, I personally think it’s one of the best destinations to visit.

This time, I’ll explain in detail, with photos, how to get to Zamami and Akajima from Naha by ferry!

Make Your Reservation Online or by Phone

First, plan your trip and make your reservations.

You can book your tickets starting one month in advance, either online or by phone.

Ferry Schedules for April 2024｜Zamami Village Official Website

Departing from Tomari Port in Naha at the “Tomarin” Terminal

Ferries to the Kerama Islands depart from Tomari Port in Naha, with the “Tomarin” terminal building as the landmark.

If you’re using the Yui Rail, it’s about a 10-minute walk from Miebashi Station.

This is the Tomarin building. Interestingly, Okinawa Yoshimoto (a comedy group) also has a presence here.

Step inside.

Immediately to your right, there’s a whiteboard displaying the ferry schedule.
The “Ferry Zamami” and “Queen Zamami” head to Zamami and Akajima.

Fill out the application form provided, regardless of whether you have a reservation, and take it to the counter.

Here’s the pricing. Payments can also be made with a credit card.
The Ferry Zamami takes 90 minutes to Akajima and 120 minutes to Zamami. The Queen Zamami is faster, taking about 50 minutes.
(Prices are as of 2015)

The Ferry Zamami boarding area is nearby, but the Queen Zamami’s boarding area is a 7–8 minute walk from the ticket counter, so allow extra time.
On this day (as is often the case), there were many tourists from across Asia.

Arrive at Zamami Island in About 1 Hour on the Queen Zamami!

Even though it was a weekday in June, the ferry was fully booked. This is peak season as it’s just after the rainy season ends.

There’s even a vending machine on board.
The sea is generally calm on this route, but if you’re prone to seasickness, it’s wise to take precautions.

After about an hour, we arrived at Zamami Island!

If you’ve reserved accommodation, the host will typically meet you with a sign.

We were greeted with a heavy downpour. Quite the welcome!

But just as quickly, the weather cleared. Okinawa’s weather truly changes on a dime.

The Stunning Waters of the Kerama Islands, Including Zamami

The seas surrounding Zamami Island and Akajima, part of the Kerama Islands, are among the most beautiful in the world, often ranked as the best globally.

I’ve visited other places known for their pristine waters, such as Hawaii, but I must say the ocean around Akajima and Zamami Island is the best I’ve ever seen.

While Okinawa’s main island has its charms, visiting the outlying islands provides an entirely different experience that’s truly worth the effort.

Final Thoughts

Zamami Island and Akajima, part of the Kerama Islands, are simple yet breathtaking destinations easily accessible by ferry from Naha.

With just a ferry ticket and accommodation booking, you can enjoy a truly unforgettable trip. Whether it’s for snorkeling, swimming, or simply admiring the pristine scenery, these islands offer an unparalleled experience.

Be sure to visit and see the beauty for yourself!