Since we were partly inspired to come here after watching Suiyō Dōdeshō’s “Complete Visitation of the 88 Temples of Shikoku” episode, this was definitely a must-visit spot for us. Since we could stop by around lunchtime, we happily went!

Interior with Irori Hearth. Understated Menu

Under the guidance of my friend, the biggest Suiyō Dōdeshō fan among our group, we arrived at Iroriya.

Entering with two suspicious-looking pilgrims!

True to its name “Iroriya,” there are seats arranged around an irori hearth.

At lunchtime on a weekday, locals and tourists (presumably) were cheerfully eating udon together.

This is the menu. They apparently remake it every month, as it includes the year and month. You can already sense their dedication and effort at this point.

While we were wondering “What did Oizumi-san eat here?”…

The owner (presumably) came over smoothly and told us “Oizumi-san had this one” – the chilled bukkake tempura udon. A normal restaurant would display autographs and photos prominently announcing “Mr. ○○ visited us!” but this shop only subtly writes “How about the ~all toppings version?” Nothing more. How tastefully understated… (You wouldn’t notice unless told!) I love it!

The back page shows their commitment to ingredients and customer feedback. Besides udon, unagi eel and conger eel also seem to be specialties.

This would be the moment to say “Well then, I’ll have the chilled bukkake tempura udon…” but being contrarian and a Kyushu person who believes “udon is all about the broth!”, I chose the warm meat udon (with egg).

Delicious Meat Udon! Chilled Bukkake Tempura Packed with Tempura

Shortly after, the meat udon arrived. A wonderful aroma wafted over.

Their homemade noodles are made with care. Moderately chewy but not overpowering, they pair wonderfully with the broth! And the meat in the meat udon was incredibly tender and delicious. Possibly top-class among all I’ve had. They’re using quality meat…

My two friends had the chilled bukkake tempura. You can’t even see the udon!

Piled high with tempura. This looked delicious too.

Kochi’s Famous Ice Cream Too

Since we were here, we finished with Kochi’s famous ice cream. “Tasty if you lick it, yo!”

The product name was “Ryoma’s Sea.” Kochi Prefecture really promotes Ryoma throughout.

This Ryoma-san looks a bit grumpy…

The taste was more refreshing than I expected, like a milk sherbet.

Final Thoughts

It’s near Shimanto City, so it’s a bit far from central Kochi, but why not visit during your temple pilgrimage or when driving around Kochi? It’s a great restaurant!

This unique inn features rooms and bathing facilities scattered along the slope, with each room boasting its own private bath.

It’s a very popular inn with high ratings in reviews.

The detached rooms are particularly in demand, but since they were fully booked, we stayed in one of the main building rooms this time.

Since we were traveling with a small child, we chose this inn primarily because it offers in-room or private dining options.
The quality of the room, hot springs, and food was excellent, making for a satisfying stay.

While the mountain road leading to the inn is somewhat narrow and tricky to navigate, it’s definitely worth staying here if you’re visiting Shikoku!

“Soudayama Onsen Yawaragi”: A Quiet Hot Spring Inn in the Mountains of Kochi

This is the reception area of Sennen no Biyu Soudayama Onsen Yawaragi.

It might look a bit small for an inn, but that’s because it’s only the reception area—perfectly adequate.

We only needed to visit the reception during checkout, as check-in was done in our room.

This is the main building where we stayed. From the outside, it looks like two traditional homes connected together.

Rest assured, the interiors are clean and modern, with all the comforts of a well-maintained ryokan.

The public baths are located in the building across the way.

[Rooms] Elegant and Modern Japanese Rooms with Private Onsen Baths

We stayed in a room called Toukou in the main building.

Everything about the room felt very new and clean, likely due to recent renovations.

The room features tatami flooring, a traditional low table, and a surprisingly large TV for a ryokan.

Behind the bamboo blinds lies a twin bedroom, making it a Japanese-Western hybrid room.

While the detached rooms are priced higher, this room was spacious and offered excellent value.

The room was equipped with all the essentials: bottled water, a tea set, a safe, and more.

The bathroom was spotless and resembled one you’d find in a newly built house. Its simple yet traditional Japanese design added a touch of elegance.

While the bath in the room wasn’t an open-air bath, it featured a hinoki (cypress) tub filled with onsen water.

For a family traveling with a small child, having access to a private onsen in the room was incredibly convenient and enjoyable.

The Cuisine at Soudayama Onsen Yawaragi

At Soudayama Onsen Yawaragi, meals are primarily served as in-room dining or in private dining rooms.

For us, traveling with an energetic 2-year-old, having a private space for meals was a huge plus (practically a necessity).

For this visit, dinner was served in our room, while breakfast was provided in a private dining room.

[Dinner] Savoring the Bounty of Kochi’s Land and Sea

As dinnertime approached, the inn staff prepared our meal in the room.

We had the standard menu, Seasonal Kaiseki, which showcases local specialties.

We began with an appetizer plate. I had never seen sushi served as part of an appetizer course before!

Next was a choice of three salads. We opted for the Shimanto Pork Salad.

The pork was tender and flavorful, with no unpleasant odor, making it enjoyable even for our son, who usually doesn’t eat much pork.

The salad option is available from June to September. During other months, you can enjoy a choice of hot pots instead.
While the salad was delicious, I couldn’t help but think a hot pot would’ve been even more satisfying!

One of the main dishes was an assortment of fresh local fish.

The highlight was the garlic-accompanied seared bonito—truly the taste of Kochi. This was exactly what we came here for!

Another highlight was Shimanto chicken simmered with a thick, savory sauce—rich and flavorful.

Salt-grilled ayu (sweetfish).

This type of dish, which we rarely have at home, is one of the joys of staying at a ryokan.

Hamo (pike conger) wrapped in plum sauce.

Not just the hamo, but the tempura vegetables were also delicious.

Bean rice served with dashi-rich soup and chawanmushi (steamed egg custard).

The meal concluded with a refreshing yuzu jelly dessert.

[Breakfast] Grilling Your Own Fish and Bacon

Breakfast was served in a private dining room.

This was the first time I’d seen a grill set up at a breakfast table.

The meal featured a well-balanced selection of Japanese and Western dishes.

Freshly cooked rice served in an ohitsu (wooden rice container).

The most unique feature was this plate of fish, shrimp, and bacon, which you could grill to your preferred level of doneness and enjoy while still hot.

We thoroughly enjoyed a delicious breakfast in the comfort of a private room.

[Onsen] Popular Baths for Day Visitors and Overnight Guests

The public baths at Soudayama Onsen Yawaragi are open to both overnight and day visitors, making them quite popular.

Although the size of the bath isn’t large, the Japanese-style ambiance creates a relaxing atmosphere.

The open-air bath is accessible via a covered walkway.

While the view isn’t expansive, soaking in the bath with fresh air and greenery surrounding you is undeniably pleasant.

One of the open-air baths, the “low-temperature bath,” stood out for its pure onsen scent and texture, free of chlorine odor. It was the best bath, in my opinion.

As it turns out, this particular bath is the only one with non-recirculating, free-flowing hot spring water. That explains its superior quality!

Every guest room includes a private onsen bath (semi-open-air in the detached rooms), so you can

enjoy the hot springs in the comfort of your own room.

Recommended Stay in Western Kochi: Soudayama Onsen Yawaragi

Nestled in the mountains of Kochi, Sennen no Biyu Soudayama Onsen Yawaragi is a popular ryokan, particularly known for its detached rooms.

While we stayed in the main building this time, our experience was excellent. Staying in one of the detached rooms would likely make the visit even more special.

If you’re planning a trip to western Kochi, this ryokan is definitely worth considering.

When it comes to Kochi, it’s almost obligatory to stop by the iconic Hirome Market.

While I initially thought Hirome Market was mostly for drinkers, I found it to be a lively, family-friendly space with a welcoming atmosphere for everyone.
(Of course, there were plenty of people enjoying drinks too!)

Although I couldn’t drink because I was driving, I thoroughly enjoyed sampling a variety of foods, from Kochi’s famous bonito to seafood, sweet potato tempura, and dumplings. It was such a fun experience!

I wish we had a place like this back home!

“Hirome Market” – A Tourist-Friendly Food Stall Village in Kochi

Located in the heart of Kochi City, near Kochi Castle, is the bustling Hirome Market.

It’s about a 20-minute walk from Kochi Station—slightly far but still manageable.

It’s a food stall village featuring primarily restaurants but also souvenir shops and clothing stores.

This is the entrance to Hirome Market, marked by a lucky cat statue.

Inside, you’ll find a lineup of various shops. The spacious hallways and open areas are furnished with tables.

Guests can purchase food from their preferred stalls and enjoy their meals in any available seating, much like a food court. Below is the largest area, “Oshiroshita Plaza.”

Even in the wider walkways, tables are set up, and people everywhere are enjoying food and drinks.

Most stalls are restaurants, but there are also apparel shops and souvenir stores.

Here’s a layout map of Hirome Market (as of July 2024).

This tourist-oriented destination offers everything from Kochi’s specialty seafood to Indian food, Chinese dishes, sweets, and souvenirs.

Usage guidelines for Hirome Market:
No table usage for non-dining purposes, no outside food or drink allowed, and smoking is prohibited. Please take note!

The Joy of Buying, Eating, and Drinking Whatever You Like

Let me introduce the foods we enjoyed at Hirome Market.

*Note: As I was the designated driver, I couldn’t drink alcohol.

Myoujinmaru (Seared Bonito)

The first place we headed to was Myoujinmaru, famous for its seared bonito cooked over straw flames.

This larger stall is located right by Oshiroshita Plaza.

The menu includes set meals, single orders of seared bonito, and a toast set.
You can choose between salt or sauce for the seasoning.

Since we planned to sample various foods, we opted for the smaller salt-seasoned portion (5 slices).

Watching the bonito slices being seared over straw flames right before your eyes is a spectacle that grabs every tourist’s attention.

Though some moisture escaped while we searched for seating, the smoky aroma and flavor of the bonito remained absolutely delicious!

The salt seasoning really enhanced the natural umami.

Nichiyoichi no Imoten (Sweet Potato Tempura)

Next, my wife found a popular stall, Nichiyoichi no Imoten, which serves Kochi’s soul food sweet potato tempura.

This place has even been featured on the TV show *Kenmin SHOW*.

The batter is crispy, while the sweet potato inside is fluffy and sweet—absolutely delightful!

Yasubei (Dumplings)

Next up, the popular gyoza stall, Yasubei, renowned for its Kochi-style dumplings.

The dumplings are crispy all around, resembling fried dumplings more than traditional pan-fried ones. (According to the official site, they’re made using a unique method that’s neither pan-fried nor deep-fried.)

Made with plenty of local Kochi vegetables, they’re surprisingly light despite their appearance—you could eat several in one sitting!

Chinmidou (Seafood and More)

The larger stall Chinmidou sells a wide range of seafood, as well as fruits, udon, and soba.

Here, I bought nanban-style moray eel.

Known as the “gangster of the sea,” moray eel actually has a pleasantly chewy texture and delicious flavor when prepared this way.

Kuroshio Chaya (Tuna)

Next, we visited Kuroshio Chaya, a stall facing Oshiroshita Plaza that specializes in locally sourced Kuroshio tuna from Kochi.

After placing an order, we were given a mini flag as a marker. The staff uses this flag to deliver your order.

We ordered an assortment of tuna sushi. It was exactly as expected—absolutely delicious.

Hirome no Oku Unagi Matsuri (Eel)

Since we didn’t have time to visit a dedicated eel restaurant as planned, we decided to try the eel skewers from Hirome no Oku Unagi Matsuri inside Hirome Market.

We chose the white and black eel skewer set.

The white skewer was lightly seasoned with salt, offering a refreshing taste, while the black skewer was coated in a savory sauce, delivering a classic flavor. It was satisfying to enjoy both styles.

Hirome Market: A Place for Drinkers and Non-Drinkers Alike

Whether you’re a drinker or not, Hirome Market is a fantastic place to enjoy Kochi’s local delicacies while sampling dishes from a variety of stalls.

While visiting individual restaurants might be more cost-effective, being able to try so many different foods in one place is especially convenient for tourists.

Hirome Market is within walking distance of Kochi Station, making it a great dining spot even for those without a car!