It’s a spring festival held annually from April 23 to May 5 at Hirosaki Park in Hirosaki City, Aomori Prefecture.
*Light-up and other events may start earlier depending on bloom timing

Hirosaki Park, home to Hirosaki Castle, is one of Japan’s premier cherry blossom viewing spots with 2,600 cherry trees in full bloom.

I visited for the first time in 2021, and was moved to speechlessness by the beauty of cherry blossoms filling my view. Overwhelming compared to any cherry blossoms I’d seen in my life.

Depending on where you live, it might be difficult to get to Hirosaki, but it’s an absolutely breathtaking view you should see once in your lifetime.

This article provides detailed information about access methods and transportation to the Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival venue, festival period, highlights, and photos and impressions from my actual visit!

Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival 2022: Period and Overview

The Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival is a spring festival held annually in Hirosaki City, Aomori Prefecture.

It’s one of Hirosaki’s Four Major Festivals (Hirosaki Neputa, Hirosaki Castle Chrysanthemum and Autumn Leaves Festival, Hirosaki Castle Snow Lantern Festival), but is probably by far the most nationally famous event among them.

Hirosaki Park is selected for both “Japan’s 100 Famous Cherry Blossom Spots” and “Japan’s 100 Best Landscapes,” where about 2,600 cherry trees of approximately 50 varieties bloom profusely, including Japan’s oldest Somei Yoshino and Japan’s thickest (largest trunk circumference) Somei Yoshino.

Over 2 million people visit the Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival annually. This ranks among Japan’s top Golden Week crowds alongside “Hakata Dontaku” and others.

The 2022 Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival will be held during the usual April 23-May 5 period with infection prevention measures in place. In response to early bloom forecasts, a preliminary festival setup will begin April 21, starting with almost the same full festival arrangements.

Note that while it was canceled in 2020, it resumed in 2021. I also visited in 2021.

Access to Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival Venue (Hirosaki Park)

Hirosaki Park, the festival venue with Hirosaki Castle inside, is located slightly northwest of central Hirosaki City.

From JR Hirosaki Station it takes about 30 minutes on foot, so taking a bus or taxi is recommended. From Chuo-Hirosaki Station on the Owani Line, it’s about a 15-minute walk.

【Shinkansen/JR】

When coming by Shinkansen or JR, access from major cities is as follows:

All routes involve taking the Shinkansen to Shin-Aomori Station first, then JR to Hirosaki Station.

【Airplane】

When using an airplane, once you reach Aomori Airport, you can get to Hirosaki City by bus in about 1 hour.
(Aomori Airport ⇔ Hirosaki bus info here)

Domestically, routes to Aomori Airport exist from the following 5 cities:

(Reference: Arrival Flight List | Aomori Airport Building Co., Ltd.)

We also used airplane. From Osaka’s Itami Airport, we boarded a smaller aircraft.

From there, we took a bus bound for Hirosaki City, about 1 hour.

We didn’t use it this time, but renting a car at Aomori Airport before going to Hirosaki is also an option.

【Car】

When heading to Hirosaki by car, travel time becomes quite long from anywhere outside neighboring prefectures.

Tokyo: about 8.5 hours
Osaka: about 14 hours
Nagoya: about 12.5 hours
Sendai: about 4 hours
Sapporo: (not possible as cars cannot pass through Seikan Tunnel)

For those outside Tohoku region, it’s recommended to first enter Aomori Prefecture by Shinkansen or airplane, then rent a car.

【Highway Bus】

I don’t recommend it since travel time is long and tough from anywhere outside neighboring prefectures, but there’s also the option of taking a highway bus to Hirosaki.

From Tokyo: “Panda-go” departing Shinjuku/Ueno (about 9 hours), “Sky-go” departing Ueno (about 9.5 hours), “Nocturne-go” departing Yokohama/Shinagawa/Hamamatsucho (about 9.5 hours).

From Sendai: “Castle-go” (about 4.5 hours).

Note that since the Seikan Tunnel between Hokkaido and Aomori doesn’t allow car passage, you cannot reach Hirosaki by highway bus from Sapporo.

Walking Through the Cherry Blossom Tunnel at “Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival” in Full Bloom

After arriving at Hirosaki Bus Center by bus from Aomori Airport, we walked about 20 minutes to check into Dormy Inn Hirosaki where we were staying.

It’s also within walking distance to Hirosaki Park (Hirosaki Castle), convenient for cherry blossom festival sightseeing.

After dropping off our luggage, we immediately headed out to the cherry blossom festival venue.

By the way, this was April 23, and since blooming was very early in 2021, it was already past peak bloom and starting to scatter a bit.

When we approached the park moat area, there were already many cherry blossoms. Here I saw for the first time the so-called “hanaikada” (flower raft) where petals completely cover the moat. Amazing…

Entering the park through Otemon gate. Somei Yoshino cherry trees line both sides. It’s late afternoon with the sun setting a bit, but still beautiful.

Cherry blossoms, cherry blossoms, cherry blossoms on both sides of the moat.

Whichever way you look, every scene is picture-perfect, so I can’t stop pressing the shutter.

Perhaps due to the times or because it’s a weekday, there aren’t many people and it’s easy to walk.

The branches of mature cherry trees extend to cover the moat.

Planted in 1882 (Meiji 15), said to be Japan’s oldest Somei Yoshino.

Compared to food stalls commonly seen at festivals, Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival stalls have impressive frameworks and signs. I’m not sure if this is Hirosaki culture or unique to Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival.

The rest areas provided are also surrounded by cherry blossoms. As long as you’re in Hirosaki Park, it’s nearly impossible to remove cherry blossoms from your view.

Tried portrait photography too.

The cherry blossom tunnel extending along Nishi-bori from near Shunyo Bridge. Not just both sides of the path but also overhead is completely covered with cherry blossoms, truly worthy of being called a tunnel.

In 2021, due to the circumstances, one-way traffic restrictions were in place. In 2022, the park will also have left-side traffic, and the Nishi-bori area will be clockwise one-way, so please check for yourself if you plan to visit.

During the cherry blossom festival period, the following infection prevention measures will be implemented. We ask for your understanding and cooperation.

Left-side traffic within the park.
(6:30-20:00)
Clockwise one-way traffic around Nishi-bori.
(7:00-20:00)
FY2022 Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival Information (as of 2022/4/4) – Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival

A view of Mt. Iwaki (Tsugaru Fuji) and the sunset beyond the moat. Makes a picture even including people resting on benches.

At Night, a Spectacular View of Illuminated Cherry Tree Rows Reflected in the Water

After walking quite a bit, we rested at Dormy Inn for a while, then went out to see the illuminated night cherry blossoms after 7 PM.

With the sun down and lit by lights, the cherry blossoms show a different expression.

The cherry blossom colors stand out more against the black night sky background.

Weeping cherry near the main enclosure with lovely pink color.

Somei Yoshino reflected on the moat’s water surface.

The “cherry blossom heart” often featured on TV programs was also perfectly visible! The location is near Ninomaru, where a crowd gathers, so you should recognize it easily when you get close.

The cherry trees lined along Nishi-bori are even more spectacular at night. They’re beautifully reflected in rows on the water surface, creating a breathtaking scene. Just being able to see this made coming here worthwhile.

Walking through the night cherry blossom tunnel.

You can slowly appreciate them while resting on benches, or walk around as much as possible. Everyone is enjoying the cherry blossoms in their own way.

Going around Nishi-bori, we reached Shunyo Bridge. The bridge had the biggest crowd of the day. That must be the best viewing spot!

The spectacular view overlooking cherry blossoms along Nishi-bori from Shunyo Bridge. This is… amazing…! So moving it left me speechless.

For those who haven’t seen it yet, seriously, please go see it once in your life.

Enjoyed wonderful night cherry blossoms with great satisfaction. Thank you.

Cherry Blossom Carpet and Hirosaki Castle Surrounded by Weeping Cherry

The next day, we went out for a daytime stroll to see cherry blossoms until just before our return flight time.

Compared to the previous evening, with light coming more from above, the cherry blossoms look different. Since it was a period when they were starting to scatter a bit, the hanaikada had grown even more since yesterday, like a cherry blossom carpet.

Such density of petals that cherry tree shadows reflect beautifully.

It’s amazing looking at photos again, but the emotion when seeing it on site really can’t be expressed in words.

This day, we headed to Hirosaki Castle, which we skipped the previous day.

The weeping cherry we saw illuminated the previous night. The black night sky background was nice, but it’s also beautiful with the daytime blue sky.

Though it was Saturday, we could comfortably enjoy our stroll without being packed with people. However, I went in 2021 when attendance was 200,000, while normally it’s over 2 million, so normal years should be more crowded.

Japan’s thickest Somei Yoshino. Trunk circumference is 537cm, tree height is 10 meters.

Another cherry tree behind it was also in full bloom right now and amazing.

We arrived at Hirosaki Castle. Normally castles stand on stone walls, but this Hirosaki Castle is temporarily on a temporary main tower base during stone wall repair work. Stone wall repair work will apparently be conducted from fall 2015 to 2023.

You can enter inside Hirosaki Castle. Inside has castle models, photos displayed, and some souvenirs sold, so maybe not essential to enter. However, the view of Mt. Iwaki and cherry blossoms from gaps in the castle window lattices was wonderful.

Looking closely, around the castle are not Somei Yoshino but all weeping cherry. The castle surrounded by blue sky and pink cherry blossoms really stands out.

As an aside, the original photo of ↑ had passersby and guards in it, which I removed using Pixel 6 Pro’s “Magic Eraser.” Looks natural with just some people’s shadows remaining, right? Amazing.

The photo as originally taken is this ↓

Reference article: Edit Post “How to Use Pixel 6 Magic Eraser. Easily Remove People and Objects by Tapping – Convenient and Fun New Feature” ‹ ushigyunet — WordPress

We fully enjoyed the Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival. It was the best cherry blossom experience.

Impressions of Visiting Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival

It was quite a hard trip going to USJ in Osaka then immediately flying to Aomori, but it was a spectacular view that made me sincerely think it was really worth coming even with some effort.

Among Japan’s many famous cherry blossom spots, I wonder if it’s difficult to surpass this emotion.

As long as bloom timing aligns, the Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival offers undoubtedly wonderful cherry blossoms.

Without exaggeration, it’s a ‘once-in-a-lifetime spectacular view you must see before you die,’ so please visit!

For example, if you search for Donbei on Amazon, you’ll see them labeled as (West) and (East).

While I knew there were two types of Donbei, I had never actually verified what differences existed in taste.

My impression was that West Japan has lighter-colored broth with kombu kelp-based dashi, while East Japan has darker-colored broth that’s bonito-based.

Since I had a business trip to Tokyo, I brought back East Japan Donbei and compared it with the West Japan version I bought in Fukuoka.

What differences are there, and which one tastes better…?

Comparing West and East Japan Donbei Kitsune Udon

On the left is West Japan, on the right is East Japan Donbei Kitsune Udon. Since eating two regular-size cups would be too much, I played it safe and got the mini size.

There are probably slight differences depending on the timing, but as of June 2019, the West Japan version has the text “West’s sweet and delicious fried tofu.” You can also see the “W” for West below the barcode.

The East Japan version has different wording: “East’s sweet and spicy fried tofu.” Below the barcode is an “E” for East.

It’s trivial, but I wonder where the commonly seen color scheme of West Japan = red and East Japan = blue came from.

The package sides also show “W” and “E,” so you can distinguish them there as well.

Checking the nutrition facts. This is West Japan.

This is East Japan. Calories and protein are the same, but the others are:
– Fat: West 8.2g > East 8.1g
– Carbohydrates: West 25.5g < East 25.9g - Sodium equivalent: West 2.8g > East 2.5g

Some people might have the image that “West Japan is lighter-flavored,” but that’s actually not true at all. It’s probably just influenced by Kyoto’s image – in reality, it’s simply a difference in soy sauce color.
(Setting aside the fact that West and East Japan are overly broad categories)

It’s also noteworthy that West Japan contains mackerel as an allergen, while East Japan doesn’t.

What was quite surprising was that both products are made at the same Shimonoseki factory (in Yamaguchi Prefecture). I assumed they were manufactured in their respective regions, but they’re made at the same factory.

Making and Comparing Both. Which Tastes Better?

Let’s make both the West and East Japan Donbei together and compare them.

The West Japan powdered soup packet is green, while East Japan is blue.

I checked the color of the fried tofu and noodles from each, but couldn’t see any difference visually.

I couldn’t find any noticeable differences in the powdered soup either. Will there be a difference in the final product?

I boiled water with my Russell Hobbs electric café kettle that I’ve been using for over 13 years, poured it in, waited 3 minutes, and opened them up.

Ah, the soup colors are completely different…!

This is West Japan. It’s lightly colored with light soy sauce base.

In contrast, East Japan has a darker color, probably due to dark soy sauce. It’s still lighter than what you’d get at Tokyo soba/udon shops (that don’t have West Japan roots), but it’s somewhat blackish.

The color difference is especially clear after eating the noodles and fried tofu.

Here are my impressions of the taste differences:

Note that I’m from Nagasaki and live in Fukuoka – a thorough West Japan person. So maybe I find the familiar flavor more delicious.

I’d love to hear if someone raised in East Japan would have a different impression when comparing them.

Final Thoughts

While it’s normal to buy local souvenirs when traveling or on business trips, it might be fun to bring back something like Donbei that’s “available nationwide but actually different between West and East.”

We did a blind taste test guessing West/East for fun, and it was really interesting!

It was a grueling 5-day journey, but we managed to visit all 88 temples and pay our respects at each main hall. (By the way, I’m not religious.)

Until I actually went, my only knowledge came from the internet and the TV show “Suiyō Dōdeshō,” but going through it myself taught me many things. This article summarizes what you should know beforehand if you’re planning to undertake the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage.

Even Rushing, You Need a Minimum of 5 Days. Allow More Time for Proper Worship

We rented a car locally and visited all 88 temples, but 5 full days was barely enough.

We typically started around 6 AM and continued until sunset, sometimes even going a bit past dark. During that time, we made detours other than temples only for lunch and a few other spots. At each temple, we only paid respects at the main hall and took photos and videos.

If you want to properly chant sutras and follow formal worship procedures, you should plan a more generous schedule. Around 10 days seems to be standard.

By the way, on foot, even walking 30km per day takes about 40 days. Unless you have plenty of time (like after retirement) and are deeply religious, it would be difficult to complete.

Pilgrimage Supplies Can Be Purchased at Temples ①Ryōzenji Through ⑥Anrakuji

When undertaking the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, you’ll want to prepare some pilgrimage gear. I wondered where to buy these items, but they’re available at temples from the first temple, Ryōzenji, up to around the sixth temple, Anrakuji.

(The lineup varies slightly by temple, and items tend to be slightly cheaper at later temples, so choose according to your preference.)

You can fully outfit yourself, but for those who want something modest, I recommend the combination of sugegasa (conical pilgrim hat), hakue (white vest), and wagesa (colored stole worn around the neck).

遍路用品 – （一社）四国八十八ヶ所霊場会

88shikokuhenro.jp

The white vest and sugegasa hat alone look decent, but adding a colored wagesa in blue or orange really completes the look nicely. I was somewhat tempted by the kongōzue (walking staff), but decided against it considering the hassle of taking it home.

A Guidebook Is Recommended

You can navigate to the temples using car navigation or smartphone GPS. However, it’s still good to have a guidebook specifically for the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage.

The reason is that guidebooks contain useful compiled information about parking lot locations, challenging mountain roads along the route, rest stops, and tourist attractions. I recommend using the guidebook to plan your general route and stops, then using GPS while driving.

Mountain Roads Are Quite Treacherous. You Need a Confident Driver

Many temples are located on mountaintops, and the mountain roads leading to them are quite treacherous. Roads that are clearly only one lane wide yet have oncoming traffic, incredibly winding switchback mountain paths, roads without guardrails where you don’t want to imagine what happens if you fall off… The driving is quite challenging, so be prepared.

It’s preferable to have multiple drivers with some experience and confidence. It might be too much for someone who rarely drives. Seriously, these are some incredible roads unlike anything you’ve experienced before.

Greet Fellow Pilgrims When You Pass Them

As you visit the temples, you’ll encounter many pilgrims (often older folks). While you wouldn’t normally greet strangers passing by in the city, here you’re fellow pilgrims visiting the same 88 temples.

Please greet them with a friendly “Hello!” (Even if you’re not conscious of it, other pilgrims greet each other, so you’ll naturally feel inclined to do the same.)

Sometimes a simple greeting leads to a pleasant conversation – that’s part of the charm.

There’s Climbing on Foot Too. Wear Comfortable Shoes and Clothing

Getting from parking lots to main halls involves climbing stairs and walking mountain paths. Some temples require quite a bit of walking, so I recommend preparing comfortable shoes like sneakers and appropriate clothing.

Final Thoughts

The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage is quite challenging and time-consuming, but precisely because of that, planning with friends and chatting while making the rounds is enjoyable and gives a great sense of accomplishment.

If you’re thinking about doing this pilgrimage, please use this article as a reference!

It’s one of Japan’s Three Great Inari Shrines, along with Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto and Kasama Inari Shrine in Ibaraki. From the photos, it looked impressively grand.

Embarrassingly, despite being from Nagasaki and living in Fukuoka, this was the first time I’d heard of it. My apologies…

Counted as one of Japan’s Three Great Inari Shrines, it receives endless prayers for business prosperity, family fortune, abundant catches, traffic safety, and various other wishes, attracting about 3 million visitors annually. The main hall, kagura hall, tower gate, and other structures are all finished in lacquer with brilliant colors, creating a magnificent and splendid appearance known as the “Nikko of Western Japan,” adding a unique touch to the tourist route.
About Yutoku Inari Shrine | Yutoku Inari Shrine

The large red shrine buildings rising against the backdrop of green trees are truly fantastic—simply put, they’re incredibly cool.

The grounds include a Japanese garden, and when I visited, peonies were blooming beautifully. Across from the shrine is the Yutoku Museum, displaying excavated treasures and historical materials, surrounded by the beautiful flowers of Higashiyama Park.

I couldn’t help thinking that people in Saga should promote this shrine more! Though it’s worth noting that it already ranks second in Kyushu for visitor numbers, so perhaps I was just the one who didn’t know about it.

Yutoku Inari Shrine: Red Main Hall Against Green Trees

Upon arrival, I was amazed by its scale beyond imagination. I had no idea Yutoku Inari Shrine was such a magnificent shrine!

Across from the shrine, next to the parking lot, is Higashiyama Park with blooming azaleas.

Like Fushimi Inari, it has expansive grounds extending not just around the main hall but all the way to the inner shrine near the mountain peak.

We passed through the stone torii gate and proceeded deeper into the grounds.

Then the main hall, surrounded by trees, came into view. The vivid red stands out beautifully against the green foliage.

The tower gate is also quite impressive. There were many tour groups from overseas as well.

Like Kyoto’s Kiyomizu Temple, this shrine features wooden framework construction with the main hall elevated high above. The view must be spectacular.

A view from the front. The current main hall was rebuilt in 1957 after the original was destroyed by fire in 1949. Thanks to excellent maintenance, it’s hard to believe it’s been 60 years.

First, we paid our respects at the kagura hall, then decided to climb up to the main hall.

The more I look at it, the more dignified the main hall appears.

We climbed the 117 steps. There are maple trees along the way, making me imagine how beautiful it must be in autumn.

This is the main hall, decorated with vibrant colors.

I performed the traditional two bows, two claps, and one bow.

From the elevated main hall, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the shrine buildings and the flowers of Higashiyama Park. What a view!

I noticed after descending that there’s a surprisingly modern elevator alongside the stairs to reach the main hall. While it costs 300 yen, you apparently receive an original fortune slip as a souvenir.

I didn’t draw a fortune because I only saw generic ones (I’m a purist for shrine-original fortunes), but I had no idea there was this system of receiving one by taking the elevator…

From the Main Hall: The Path to the Inner Shrine with Rows of Torii Gates

From beside the main hall, a path continues to the inner shrine at the mountain peak. It’s apparently about 300 meters along a mountain trail.

While not as extensive as Fushimi Inari Taisha, walking through the rows of red torii gates is delightful in itself.

The weathered torii gates add wonderful character.

We decided to skip visiting the inner shrine due to our schedule, but I recommend it if you have time.

Japanese Garden: Enjoy Seasonal Flowers Year-Round

At Yutoku Inari Shrine’s Japanese garden, you can enjoy the elegant garden and seasonal flowers throughout the year. Admission is 200 yen.

When I visited, many peonies in full bloom were on display.

The white, pink, and red varieties were vibrant and beautiful.

While I initially thought “They charge admission?”, the quality was definitely worth the price.

Final Thoughts

Since it’s located in the Nagasaki-facing part of Saga Prefecture, I recommend adding it to your itinerary if you’re traveling to Saga or Nagasaki. It’s also close to Ureshino Onsen and Takeo Onsen hot spring resorts.

*Information is current as of article publication. Please verify details on the official website.

Personally, I didn’t care for what I had at Hakata Station before and avoided it for a while, but I reconsidered that I should properly check by eating at the main branch, so I headed to the main branch located off Watanabe-dori.

“Daruma Ramen,” the predecessor of Hakata Daruma, was a ramen shop once operated by current owner Hideto Kawahara’s parents in Hakozaki, Higashi Ward. Hideto Kawahara is also the founder of the famous “Hidechan Ramen.” What a ramen dynasty.

変化し続ける有名店「秀ちゃんラーメン」当たり外れあるものの行く価値あり

福岡に数多くあるラーメン店の中でも、かなり知名度が高く東京にも出店している「博多だるま」と「秀ちゃんラーメン」。この2つは同じ会社が経営しているのをご存知でしょうか？この会社を経営しているのは、東区箱崎で営業しており学生時代私もよく食べに行...

ushigyu.net

After temporarily closing in 2000, his son Hideto inherited it and revived it at the current location, continuing to this day. Actually, I also lived in Hakozaki during my student days, so my friends and I often went to “Daruma Ramen.”

So it should be a nostalgic taste, but I feel the flavor is quite different from back then. Though my memory is admittedly hazy… It was over 20 years ago, after all.

So, setting aside the past, this visit was to judge based on the current taste.

Access and Transportation to Hakata Daruma Main Branch

Hakata Daruma Main Branch is on the southern edge of Tenjin, Fukuoka City’s premier entertainment district. It’s quite a distance – about a 16-minute walk from Subway Airport Line Tenjin Station, or about an 8-minute walk from Nanakuma Line Tenjin-Minami Station, somewhat far.

Unless you want to enjoy a walk, I recommend taking Nishitetsu Bus or taxi.

For example, from Hakata Station, depending on the route and time, it takes about 15 minutes total, including about 4 minutes walking.

There’s also the option of using rental bicycle service. In Fukuoka as of 2022, “ChariChari” is pretty much the only option.

Heading to Hakata Daruma Main Branch, South of Tenjin

The main branch of “Hakata Daruma” is slightly south of Tenjin, about a 10-minute walk from Tenjin-Minami Station. The modest building and additions are characteristic, unlike what you’d expect from a famous shop’s main branch.

It’s a meal ticket system, with ramen at 700 yen – quite an aggressive price. Noodle firmness can be chosen from barikatta, kata, regular, or yawa. As an aside, Fukuoka locals mostly order “kata.” Occasionally “regular.” Mostly tourists order “barikatta.”

The interior has exposed concrete with a slightly stylish feel.

On the table are white pickled ginger, sesame, pepper, gyoza sauce, and chili oil. No spicy mustard greens.

【April 2018】Slightly Heavy on Fat? But Delicious Ramen

The ramen arrived shortly after. Looks like standard Hakata ramen.

The toppings are also orthodox – just two slices of chashu and green onions.

A sip of soup… oh!? Much tastier than my previous impression. (Sorry) When I ate at Hakata Station before, the flavor seemed thin, but this has a moderate pork bone flavor with decent punch.

Not my top recommendation, but much tastier than I remembered. Maybe because it’s the main branch. (@ Hakata Daruma in Fukuoka City, Fukuoka) https://t.co/7PAQodPLqD pic.twitter.com/tURMxMaOYC

— Shotaro Ushijima (@ushigyu) March 30, 2018

The noodles are ultra-thin, which as far as I remember, I’ve only seen at Shin-Shin. Recommended to order kata and eat quickly.

The chashu is slightly out of focus, but typical of Hakata ramen – two thin slices without much volume, but the flavor is well absorbed.

It’s reasonably delicious, but personally I feel there’s a bit too much fat for the flavor intensity. The richness is 5 out of 5, but the flavor punch is only about 3 out of 5, so it feels unbalanced. If going for rich and hearty, I’d want a more powerful flavor, and if aiming for accessible and balanced taste, I’d want less fat. After eating, it hit my stomach several times harder than the impression while eating.

【April 2022】Recreating Original Recipe: Transformed into Intensely Rich, Pork-Smelling Wild Ramen!

The “Hakata Daruma Main Branch” ramen I saw in YouTube videos looked completely different from what I’d eaten before…! To verify what was happening, I revisited in April 2022 after a long absence.

The signboard that should have been white is now orange, already different from the exterior.

Compared to four years ago, ramen has only increased by 20 yen. The menu has expanded with fried rice and small appetizers.

Inside the shop is the signboard from when they operated in Hakozaki, Higashi Ward from founding until around 2000. Actually, I attended Kyushu University in Hakozaki starting in 1999 right before they closed, so I often ate Daruma Ramen after drinking. So nostalgic.

I admittedly don’t remember the visuals from 20 years ago well, but the ramen photo is clearly a different color from four years ago. What kind of ramen will arrive…?

The ramen that arrived bore no resemblance to four years ago. What is this brown foam…! While Ikkousha and Issou are famous for foam-style ramen, this has a different wild color.

The tsukimi ramen my wife ordered. This also naturally has the same base, so wild appearance.

My ramen has such a thick layer of fat (lard?) that when I put in chopsticks, I can see through it for a while.

When I scoop it with a spoon, it looks about 70% fat. Is this the default…?

But when I work hard to mix from the bottom and scoop and drink, while wild and pork-smelling, it has strong umami and is very delicious! While easy-to-eat, well-behaved ramen suppressing pork smell is increasing, “Hakata Daruma Main Branch” that dared to change to this much wildness is not to be underestimated…!

Since it was so different from last time, I researched and found they renewed to the original recipe on the occasion of their 58th anniversary in December 2021. Only the main branch changed to the original recipe, while other branches keep the previous “Hakata Daruma” taste.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Hakata Daruma Main Branch(@hakata_daruma_honten)

The noodles are ultra-thin, firmly bringing the soup flavor to your mouth.

The fried rice and gyoza are also properly delicious. Should satisfyingly and deliciously fill the stomachs of those wanting to eat heartily.

Still, the amount of fat in my ramen seemed excessive, but my wife’s ramen (though it has a fat layer) wasn’t as much as my soup. Since I didn’t order extra rich, there may still be quality variations since they just renewed. Looking forward to improvements.

It had become completely different from the previous “Hakata Daruma Main Branch” image – wild, pork-smelling ramen with intense punch. I also ate at Hakozaki Daruma often, but I honestly don’t remember how accurate the flavor recreation is… It was over 20 years ago after all. (I feel there was a fat layer, but not this much punch power…)

People who like “that kind of ramen” will surely love it. Very delicious but beware of indigestion.

Final Thoughts

Ramen preferences vary widely, so as with any shop, some people will like it and others won’t. There’s no doubt it’s one of Fukuoka’s leading famous shops, so I think it’s worth visiting and judging for yourself!

Since we were partly inspired to come here after watching Suiyō Dōdeshō’s “Complete Visitation of the 88 Temples of Shikoku” episode, this was definitely a must-visit spot for us. Since we could stop by around lunchtime, we happily went!

Interior with Irori Hearth. Understated Menu

Under the guidance of my friend, the biggest Suiyō Dōdeshō fan among our group, we arrived at Iroriya.

Entering with two suspicious-looking pilgrims!

True to its name “Iroriya,” there are seats arranged around an irori hearth.

At lunchtime on a weekday, locals and tourists (presumably) were cheerfully eating udon together.

This is the menu. They apparently remake it every month, as it includes the year and month. You can already sense their dedication and effort at this point.

While we were wondering “What did Oizumi-san eat here?”…

The owner (presumably) came over smoothly and told us “Oizumi-san had this one” – the chilled bukkake tempura udon. A normal restaurant would display autographs and photos prominently announcing “Mr. ○○ visited us!” but this shop only subtly writes “How about the ~all toppings version?” Nothing more. How tastefully understated… (You wouldn’t notice unless told!) I love it!

The back page shows their commitment to ingredients and customer feedback. Besides udon, unagi eel and conger eel also seem to be specialties.

This would be the moment to say “Well then, I’ll have the chilled bukkake tempura udon…” but being contrarian and a Kyushu person who believes “udon is all about the broth!”, I chose the warm meat udon (with egg).

Delicious Meat Udon! Chilled Bukkake Tempura Packed with Tempura

Shortly after, the meat udon arrived. A wonderful aroma wafted over.

Their homemade noodles are made with care. Moderately chewy but not overpowering, they pair wonderfully with the broth! And the meat in the meat udon was incredibly tender and delicious. Possibly top-class among all I’ve had. They’re using quality meat…

My two friends had the chilled bukkake tempura. You can’t even see the udon!

Piled high with tempura. This looked delicious too.

Kochi’s Famous Ice Cream Too

Since we were here, we finished with Kochi’s famous ice cream. “Tasty if you lick it, yo!”

The product name was “Ryoma’s Sea.” Kochi Prefecture really promotes Ryoma throughout.

This Ryoma-san looks a bit grumpy…

The taste was more refreshing than I expected, like a milk sherbet.

Final Thoughts

It’s near Shimanto City, so it’s a bit far from central Kochi, but why not visit during your temple pilgrimage or when driving around Kochi? It’s a great restaurant!

While it’s called a soul food of Fukuoka, due to delivery logistics, it had only existed along highways in the suburbs, which was unfortunate as you couldn’t eat it in downtown Fukuoka.

But Maki no Udon has now opened at Hakata Bus Terminal right next to Hakata Station! I rushed over to inspect and sample it.

While operations differ somewhat from existing large stores, what was served was unmistakably Maki no Udon. As a Fukuoka resident, I’m thrilled it’s now in an easily accessible location.

Maki no Udon Opens in Hakata Bus Terminal Basement

Maki no Udon opened at Hakata Bus Terminal, which is connected to Hakata Station. You can easily access it via the underground passage from the subway or JR station, or by exiting Hakata Station’s main exit and turning right.

The shop is next to Mos Burger, in a slightly recessed location if coming via the underground passage. “Kamaage Maki no Udon” – this is definitely it.

Perhaps to reduce labor costs, unlike other locations, this one uses a meal ticket system. There are also set menus that other stores don’t have, showing consideration for the different location and customer base. Since it was still morning, I ordered conservatively: a mini udon and mini kashiwa rice set.

Existing stores occupy spacious suburban sites with attached noodle-making facilities, but being in a basement near Hakata Station, that’s obviously not possible here. The capacity is about 30-40 people, and there’s clearly no space for noodle-making. They’re probably delivered directly from a nearby location.

Green onions and chili peppers on the table. As a green onion lover, having all-you-can-add green onions really elevates my impression of a place.

The Joy of Tasting “Those Noodles” Near the Station

Mini udon and mini kashiwa rice set has arrived! A characteristic of Maki no Udon is that it comes with a kettle containing extra dashi broth for adding.

Being mini size, it’s somewhat less impressive, but you can still immediately see these are “those noodles.” (By the way, this is medium firmness – you can choose from firm, medium, or soft. If you don’t want them to expand too much, choose firm.) Despite being small, it comes with meat udon toppings, fried shrimp, and boiled egg, giving it good value.

Mini kashiwa rice. About the size of one rice ball. But combined with the mini udon, I think it’s enough for one adult serving. (Meaning the regular udon is quite substantial in volume.)

By the way, this is my perfect udon customized to personal preference. I love green onions.

While not as dramatic since it’s mini size, if you dawdle, the noodles absorb broth and expand to the point where you think “Wait, did I order zaru udon?” so add soup from the kettle when it runs low. The broth in the kettle seems slightly saltier than what’s initially in the bowl, so be careful about sodium intake.

Final Thoughts

I’m very pleased that Maki no Udon, which previously required a considerable bus or car/motorcycle journey to reach, is now in an easily accessible location.

This is definitely going on my list of strong dining candidates when visiting the Hakata Station area.

By the way, for those from other prefectures, Maki no Udon does not equal Hakata udon. While it does have the characteristic soft noodles typical of Hakata udon, only Maki no Udon expands this aggressively, and there are almost no other shops with noodles this thick.

To give an analogy, it’s like saying Tokyo ramen ≠ Ramen Jiro, you know? (Hope that gets across)

Among the famous Nagoya-meshi (Nagoya cuisine), one of the well-known B-grade gourmet dishes is Ankake Spaghetti (thick sauce-covered spaghetti).

This ankake spaghetti was created by the founder of a restaurant called Spaghetti House Yokoi, and I decided to try it while stopping by Nagoya!

I visited the Nishiki branch of Spaghetti House Yokoi, located a 3-minute walk from Sakae Station on the subway.

It was past noon on a Friday, and there were many suited office workers eating lunch. It felt like a restaurant beloved by locals.

This is the menu. At first glance, it’s filled with words that make no sense to non-Nagoya residents. “Mirakan,” “Indian,” “Viking,” and so on… Apparently, each represents a type of topping (what goes on top of the spaghetti).

When I asked the staff, they said the recommendation and most popular item was “Mirakan,” so I ordered that!

First, potato salad and cabbage to prepare the stomach.

After a short wait, here comes the Ankake Spaghetti! So this is what Mirakan looks like.

The toppings consist of stir-fried onions, green peppers, mushrooms, ham, bacon, and red sausages. The quantity and visual impact of the red sausages (the kind you often see in lunch boxes) is particularly striking.

The sauce is tomato-based, seasoned with salt and pepper (with a bit more emphasis on pepper).

Personally, it wasn’t at the level of “incredibly delicious!” (though it was pretty good, I swear! Sorry lol), but it had a flavor that made me want to come back and eat it again from time to time.

More than any other Nagoya-meshi I’ve tried, this gave me the feeling of “I’m eating authentic Nagoya B-grade gourmet!” I imagine Nagoya residents each have their own favorite variations…

Next time, I’d like to try it with different toppings!

From Kakunodate Station on the Akita Nairiku Jukan Railway to Even Snowier Northern Akita

Starting from Kakunodate, the old capital of Akita Prefecture. The Akita Nairiku Jukan Railway runs from here to Takanosu Station in Kitaakita City, where you can connect to JR lines and travel to Hirosaki in Aomori Prefecture.

Inside the characterful station building is a handmade-feeling ticket counter.

The nearest station to “Matagi no Yu” that we’re visiting today is aptly named “Ani Matagi” station. 950 yen it is.

For some reason, there were capsule toy machines. For railway fans, perhaps?

Since trains run only once every 1-2 hours, I recommend timing your visit carefully. I had checked in advance, but arrived several tens of minutes early, so I leisurely looked at the photo exhibition in the adjacent room. The beautiful photos displayed here were apparently taken by two train drivers who love photography.

When the time came, I boarded the train.

Even though I’m not particularly a railway enthusiast, this appearance gets me excited.

The train car interior has an atmosphere you don’t find on city trains. It was beautifully decorated since spring was approaching. I wonder if they change it with each season.

Looking closely, there are also drawings of Hina dolls and Emperor dolls drawn by children. It’s truly a community-based operation.

Finally departing! There was also something expressing gratitude for Taiwan’s great assistance during the Great East Japan Earthquake. Nice.

And this font!

North from the relatively prosperous Kakunodate, further north. Gradually buildings decrease and snow gets deeper.

Perhaps because it was around school dismissal time, high school girls boarded midway and then got off. So high school girls in snowy regions aren’t an urban legend. Growing up in Tokyo versus growing up in countryside like this must give fundamentally different sensibilities. Neither is better or worse.

After about 40 minutes on the train, we arrived at our destination, Ani Matagi Station.

It has even more atmosphere in the darkness.

Staying at Uchiate Onsen “Matagi no Yu” in the Birthplace of Matagi

This is an unmanned station. I’m the only passenger, and there’s literally no one around.

Wow, snow scenery everywhere.

Characterful station sign. Quite an impressive station name.

Kitaakita City Ani Nakamura, where Ani Matagi Station is located, is known as the birthplace of Matagi, as the name suggests. Matagi refers to people in Tohoku and Hokkaido who make their living through hunting. (Not this)

If you tell “Uchiate Onsen Matagi no Yu” in advance which train you’re taking, they’ll come pick you up.

秘境の宿 打当温泉 マタギの湯【公式サイト】

花の百名山「森吉山（もりよしざん）」の南山麓に広がり、マタギ文化発祥の地とも言われる北秋田市阿仁地域。打当温泉マタギの湯は、マタギの狩猟場でもある山々と清らかな清流に囲まれた一軒宿です。マタギをはじめ地域住民から愛される名湯、良く温まり湯冷...

www.mataginoyu.com

Arrived at Matagi no Yu in a few minutes. From the name, I had arbitrarily imagined an old-fashioned building, but it’s an incredibly clean building.

The surroundings have only scattered houses here and there – otherwise only snow and mountains are visible.

At the entrance are characterful carvings. Matagi, owl, and bear, perhaps?

There was also a cute baby bear trying its best to look scary.

Upon entering, a Matagi panel and baby bear greet you.

After checking in, heading to the room. Gonta, a brown bear that’s presumably a taxidermy mount. Introduced in cute font, but…

Incredibly scary. If I encountered this, my legs would give out…

There’s also a Matagi museum inside that I wanted to explore, but it was already closed at check-in time, and in the morning I couldn’t wake up early and didn’t have time, which is my one regret. Coming all the way to the Matagi village… Next time for sure.

There are samue work clothes as room wear, but for those who want to be warmer, there are also hanten jackets. Very northern country feeling – nice. However, the building itself is too clean to have any traditional atmosphere. Though it is comfortable because of that.

The room is solidly built with no inconveniences. Even Wi-Fi available – no complaints.

Washlet toilet equipped too.

Cuisine Befitting the Matagi Village and Hot Springs Surrounded by Snowy Scenery

Dinner time arrived. On this day, I was the only guest staying! Judging from reviews, it seems to be a popular inn, but perhaps that’s how it is on a winter weekday.

There are various menu items befitting the Matagi village, making for an enjoyable meal.

Salt-grilled iwana char. I also ate this at Toyama’s Ainokura Gassho Village before, but it has a different flavor from ocean fish.

This is a hot pot containing rabbit meat. I’ve heard it’s served in places like Europe, but you can eat it in Japan too. It’s like fatty, tender chicken and quite delicious. I don’t think it’s readily available nearby, but this is worth trying once.

There was even catfish sashimi (not sure if this relates to Matagi), and I thoroughly enjoyed these rare and delicious ingredients.

I also had doburoku, the prototype of sake. It contains what appears to be fermented rice (moromi?), making it thick, with a sweet taste that’s surprisingly easy to drink.

Of course, there’s a hot spring too! Facilities-wise it feels like a super sento, but the water is truly good. Though completely dark, the hot spring in the harsh cold with glimpses of snowy scenery is the best.

Bought alcohol at the inn’s shop and relaxed in the room. As expected from a rice-producing region, there’s plenty of cheap and delicious sake.

Unmanned Station Standing in Pure White Scenery Surrounded by Snowy Mountains – Beautiful

Morning. Woke up and immediately hit the hot spring, then had a simple breakfast.

Since I had a little time before the train’s departure, I looked around the lobby. Found a notice in Akita dialect! I don’t understand the details, but it seems to say if you wear slippers outside you’ll be laughed at, so leave them here. I wonder what “futome no warii koto” means.

Genuine Tohoku dialects are difficult…

Various exhibits related to Matagi. Thinking about it now, I should have quickly looked at the museum during this time. By the way, there’s a bear farm nearby, but unfortunately it was closed for winter.

Thank you for everything. Looking closely, there’s a Christmas tree!

They took me to Ani Matagi Station by microbus.

The unmanned Ani Matagi Station standing out in the snowy landscape. The innkeeper said “There’s nothing here, so I’ll take you at the last minute,” but for those of us not from snowy regions, this snowy scenery is great. It’s a tourist resource.

Snowy mountains with a vivid two-color gradation. I wonder if it’s like that due to wind direction.

According to the information board, there are stones called the “Seven Mysteries of Nakamura” around here. I didn’t have time this trip, but what’s mysterious about them? Winter seems harsh, but it should be accessible once the snow melts.

Railway tracks extending straight through the snow. So picturesque.

Boarding this train to return to Kakunodate.

I was alone when boarding, but local ladies got on midway and it gradually became livelier. It was a bit late for school hours, so I didn’t see the students I’d seen on the way here. The line apparently suffers from chronic deficits, but as both transportation for residents and a train that stirs tourists’ wanderlust, I hope it continues to operate.

Once you reach Kakunodate, you can easily take the Komachi shinkansen to Morioka or Sendai.

Final Thoughts

I don’t know what points attract railway fans, but even without any railway affinity, I enjoyed the Akita Nairiku Jukan Railway, so I’m sure they’d like it. Snowy scenery, hot springs, simple cuisine and people. The trip to Akita had a different atmosphere from other regions and was deeply flavorful.

In Nagasaki, where flat land is scarce and mountains are abundant, buildings are constructed along the slopes, and when darkness falls, it creates a night view rarely seen in other places.

While Hakodate, Kobe, and Nagasaki are known as Japan’s Three Great Night Views, Nagasaki has also been selected as one of the “World’s New Top Three Night Views.”

However, this was certified at the “Night View Summit 2012 in Nagasaki” based on a survey by a Japanese organization, so you should probably factor in some local bias. Regardless of whether it’s included in the world’s top three night views, there’s no doubt that Nagasaki’s night view is beautiful.

As a local, you’d never go there except on a date (which is why I never had the chance), but I recently went while visiting for the Lantern Festival, so here’s my report!

To Mount Inasa Observatory by Car, Bus, or Ropeway

There are several routes to the Mount Inasa observatory. Here are your options for reference:

Route 1: Drive to the paid parking lot next to the observatory
Disadvantage: The paid parking lot only holds 40 cars, so it may be full on weekends and busy times. Entry restrictions may be in place (Reference: Access | Inasayama Park WEB)

Route 2: Drive to the large free parking lot before the observatory, then walk or take a shuttle bus to the observatory
Disadvantage: About a 15-minute walk from the free parking lot to the observatory. Shuttle bus times are fixed

Route 3: Use the ropeway (Reference: Nagasaki Ropeway | Operating Information)
Disadvantage: Need to take a bus to the boarding area. Note the ropeway operating hours (9:00-22:00)

Route 4: Take a regular bus to the free parking lot, then shuttle bus from there
Disadvantage: Regular buses run about once every 30 minutes (Reference: Quick Timetable & Fare Search | Nagasaki Bus)

Route 5: Taxi

This time I chose Route 2 above. I headed to the free parking lot by rental car, then took the shuttle bus to the observatory from there.

If you want to enjoy watching the city gradually transform into its nighttime face, arriving a little before sunset is best.

Nagasaki City is full of mountains and slopes, but surprisingly doesn’t have many high-altitude mountains. So all of Nagasaki’s major broadcasting stations have installed their antennas next to the observatory on the relatively high Mount Inasa (333 meters).

From next to the observatory, you can already see Nagasaki’s city and harbor at a glance.

The weather wasn’t great this day, but still a good view.

Let’s enter the cylindrical observation tower.

Wait for Nightfall While Viewing Outside from Inside the Observatory

Inside there’s a rest area and some small exhibits.

This day there was a Mount Inasa Photo Contest display.

The outside is a spiral upward slope, and as you go up there’s an observation deck.

Selected as one of the World’s New Top Three Night Views along with Hong Kong and Monaco. While it was chosen by a Japanese organization at a summit held in Nagasaki so you should read between the lines, there’s no doubt it’s a very beautiful night view.

Benches are installed on the spiral slope, so many people wait here for nightfall while watching outside.

Even from here you can see a beautiful night view.

I climbed up the slope to just before the observation deck. But this day the temperature was low and the wind was strong, making it incredibly cold, so I decided to wait inside until nightfall before going out.

By the way, next to it there’s also a restaurant where you can dine while viewing Nagasaki’s scenery and night view. The panel featuring Taro Hakase is prominent, but he doesn’t have any particular connection to Nagasaki – he performs “Nagasaki Nocturne,” the theme song for the New Top Three Night Views promoting Nagasaki tourism.

As sunset approaches, tourists keep arriving. Though it’s a weekday, the Lantern Festival is in session. The impression is about half Japanese and half Chinese/Korean tourists.

It’s gradually getting darker and looking good. Already beautiful…!

Let’s go up to the observation deck now.

Enjoy One of the World’s Finest Night Views Created by Terrain and Harbor

This day the temperature was approaching 0°C, one of the coldest days of the year. Plus it was snowing and windy – just freezing! But since we came all this way, we must see the night view! Must take photos!

Whoa…! So beautiful!! It truly deserves to be called a million-dollar night view. (Though it’s surely worth more than a million dollars now)

Everyone is freezing saying “So cold!” but still gazing at the night view.

The observation deck is fairly spacious with platforms in the back, so even when many people come, everyone can properly view the night scene.

Antennas, parking lot, night view. This contrast is also beautiful.

Nagasaki’s narrow, deep harbor and the lights from buildings and roads along the slopes create one of the world’s finest night views.

After enjoying the night view, we took the shuttle bus back to the free parking lot.

Despite being during the Lantern Festival period, since it was a weekday and very cold, the free parking lot was empty. The paid parking lot wasn’t full either, so we could have used it if we’d wanted to, but oh well.

Final Thoughts

Nagasaki has many attractions, but especially if you’re visiting as a couple or married couple, you can’t miss this world-class beautiful night view. While bus schedules vary by season, it’s nice that you can basically enjoy it year-round. Please come and see it!

While that’s true in some areas, you can find cheap and delicious restaurants in Tokyo if you look. Otako Honten, which I’m introducing today, is one of them.

Otako Honten is a long-established oden restaurant founded in 1923 (Taisho 12). Along with the oden this shop serves, another specialty is toumeshi.

It’s rice topped with a big piece of broth-soaked tofu – in a sense that’s all it is, but it’s indescribably and gently delicious. Moreover, at a location near stations in central Tokyo, it costs just 670 yen and is served super fast. There’s no doubt it’s a strong ally for busy office workers in the area.

I highly recommend this restaurant for lunch to those using Tokyo Station or Nihonbashi Station for travel or connections!

Otako Honten: A Long-Established Oden Restaurant in Central Tokyo

Otako Honten is about a 7-8 minute walk from JR Tokyo Station, or about 3 minutes from Nihonbashi Station. Established in 1923 (Taisho 12), it’s a venerable establishment with 93 years of history, though it apparently moved to this location just over 10 years ago.

The giant red lantern makes you want to pass through the noren curtain.

I visited right at lunchtime on a weekday. Across from someone who looks every bit the chef making oden and toumeshi, suited people who likely work nearby are having lunch.

The menu. The signature oden looks appealing, but let me go with the toumeshi set meal… wait, what’s that in the back??

Yes, it came out instantly while I was sitting down, ordering, and taking photos of the counter. Too fast! LOL This speed is wonderful for time-pressed office workers.

There also appear to be rice bowls and set meals using Daisen chicken, and mackerel set meals. Yes, photos are nice but let’s eat before it gets cold.

Toumeshi with Broth-Soaked Tofu Has a Gentle Deliciousness

Toumeshi topped with tofu that clearly has absorbed lots of flavor, simmered dish with daikon radish, beef tendon and egg, a somewhat modest (sorry!) salad, miso soup, and pickles.

Up close, the large tofu is quite impressive. The surrounding rice also appears to have broth poured over it.

The simmered dish. There wasn’t much beef tendon, but both the daikon and simmered egg were flavorful and delicious.

The tofu is very hot and soft, with the broth’s flavor wafting from inside as well. It has a gentle taste, and you don’t mind at all that there are no other side dishes.

If you want variety mid-to-late meal, it’s good to add accent by sprinkling chili pepper or eating the more concentrated broth at the bottom. It’s also nice to vary the pace with pickles, simmered dish, and miso soup.

Final Thoughts

Toumeshi – a tofu rice bowl simmered in continuously-replenished secret broth – is definitely one Tokyo gourmet experience you should try! Next time I want to visit at night to enjoy oden with sake.

You can eat fresh sashimi and live squid sashimi at ordinary izakayas around here.

One place that supports Fukuoka’s dining establishments, called “Hakata’s Kitchen,” is Yanagibashi Rengou Market.

It’s located very close to Tenjin, Fukuoka’s premier entertainment district, with various fresh ingredients lined up daily.

This time, I visited Yanagibashi Shokudo, a dining establishment inside this market!

Walking Through “Hakata’s Kitchen” – Yanagibashi Rengou Market

The exterior of Yanagibashi Rengou Market. An appearance that evokes a sense of history.

It’s within walking distance from Tenjin.

Going inside, it really feels like a traditional old-fashioned market. Fresh fish and vegetables are lined up.

Since it’s more geared toward businesses, foot traffic isn’t that heavy. Still, thanks to the lively calls, it’s a street where you can feel the energy.

Walking further along…

Hidden Gem “Yanagibashi Shokudo” in the Back of a Fresh Fish Shop

Found it! This must be Yanagibashi Shokudo… right? There’s a noren curtain saying “Dining Place,” so it must be correct.

The menu is posted on the first-floor wall, where you order and pay in advance. This time, I chose the most popular “Kaisen-don” (seafood bowl). 650 yen is cheap!
*Prices from 2012

Going up the stairs, waiting at the second-floor seating. (I forgot to take a photo when going up, so this is from above)

When I went up to the second floor, people who seemed like locals were waiting for their orders.

Going left, there are more table seats in the back. An elderly couple who also look like locals are eating here.

On the wall to the side, bold text reads “We ship nationwide.”

I went around 11:30, but office workers and other customers kept increasing, and I ended up sharing a table. It seems lunchtime gets crowded with locals.

Fresh, Cheap, and Delicious – Truly a Market Seafood Bowl

While this was happening, the seafood bowl arrived! A bowl with chunks of white fish, miso soup with fish broth, and pickles.

When you think of seafood bowls, you imagine various fish beautifully arranged for over a thousand yen… but this one has white fish like sea bream and others piled on generously (and somewhat haphazardly?).

Being in a market, freshness is guaranteed. 650 yen for this is definitely cheap…!
*Prices from 2012

The fish is already lightly marinated in sauce, but you can also add this soy sauce if you like. I dissolved wasabi in sashimi soy sauce and poured it on.

Can you see it? This slightly translucent look of the sashimi. There’s no way this wouldn’t be delicious.

As I continued eating, I found salmon buried underneath. This one has nicely fatty texture. (ﾟдﾟ) Delicious!!

When I finished eating and tried to leave, the storefront was bustling with housewives. There’s something nice about community-based shops.

Final Thoughts

Both the seafood bowl and miso soup were delicious, but in addition to that, the market atmosphere really added great flavor.

Since it’s close to Tenjin, why not stop by for a stroll sometime?

While there are many shops called Kanazawa curry such as Champion Curry (nicknamed Chan-Kare), Indian Curry, and Gold Curry, one of the shops said to be the originator is Turban Curry.

Since the main shop is located in an easily accessible place in Kanazawa city, I went there right after arriving at the station.

The rich roux with depth and sweetness has an addictive taste. So this is the deliciousness of Kanazawa curry…!

Access and Transportation to Turban Curry

Turban Curry’s main shop (Katamachi branch) is located in the Korinbo district of Kanazawa City. It’s close to tourist spots like the 21st Century Museum and Kenrokuen Garden, in a very accessible location.

It takes about 30 minutes to walk from Kanazawa Station, so it’s best to go by bus or taxi.

If you’re planning to stay overnight for Kanazawa sightseeing, I recommend getting accommodation around the Korinbo area, as it makes it easy to visit tourist spots like the 21st Century Museum, Kenrokuen Garden, samurai residences, and Kanazawa Castle ruins.

Original Kanazawa Curry “Turban Curry”

On this kind of street with lots of greenery while being in the city,

There was Turban Curry. A quite small, cozy shop.

Inside there are only counter seats and small table seats. Though it was a weekday and well past lunchtime, customers kept coming in continuously.

Established in 1971 (Showa 46), it has quite a long history. Since I was hungry, I ordered the L-set (medium), which is the recommended BEST 1.

Here’s Turban Curry’s menu. Small is 500 yen, medium is 550 yen, large is 700 yen, extra large is 850 yen. However, these are 2015 prices, and as of 2022 they appear to be small: 500 yen, medium: 600 yen, large: 700 yen, extra large: 800 yen. Medium has increased but extra large decreased. Quite unusual.

Three female staff members who look like they make delicious curry are efficiently preparing curry and toppings.

Rich Roux with Melted Vegetable Sweetness, Exquisite

The L-set arrived!! Kanazawa curry is characterized by dark roux on a metal plate, served with cabbage.

Rich, deep roux with melted umami and sweetness from vegetables and meat. Freshly fried tonkatsu with hamburger and sausage.

This is really delicious!

Honestly, Go Go Curry in Tokyo and Fukuoka didn’t really click with me, but this Turban Curry firmly grabbed my stomach. (By the way, Go Go Curry’s founder apparently worked part-time at this Turban Curry for a few months before opening independently. Perhaps because they expanded their chain mainly in Tokyo rather than local Kanazawa, there seem to be mixed opinions among Kanazawa citizens)

The spork (spoon-fork hybrid) since school lunch days – a great invention that lets you eat both toppings and curry with just this one utensil.

It was delicious!

Final Thoughts

While Fukuoka also has many delicious curry shops including Asian countries’ styles, home-style, European-style, etc., this is a different type of flavor. I want one in my neighborhood…

When you come to Kanazawa, please definitely visit. They apparently have branches in Nagano and Kyoto too!

When it comes to Sendai specialties, gyutan (grilled beef tongue) immediately comes to mind.

After some research, I discovered that Aji Tasuke, the birthplace of grilled beef tongue, was within walking distance, so I went to check it out!

Aji Tasuke – The Original Grilled Beef Tongue Restaurant

The location is near Kotodai-koen Station on the Nanboku subway line. It’s about a 15-minute walk from Sendai Station.

On a narrow side street running parallel to a larger main road.

The large sign for Aji Tasuke.
The subdued color scheme and font are excellent.

I arrived shortly before the 11:30 opening time, so it wasn’t open yet.

After waiting a bit, the noren curtain came out and they opened!

I was the first customer that day. The owner appears to specialize exclusively in grilling beef tongue.

The interior has a counter and a few table seats.

Beef tongue is shipped nationwide and can apparently be purchased as a souvenir.

During lunch hours, prices are discounted by ¥100 from regular prices.
I chose the A Set with 3 slices of beef tongue!

Aromatic, Chewy, and Deliciously Simple Grilled Beef Tongue

After a short wait, the beef tongue set arrived!

Beef tongue with pickled vegetables and miso pickles, tail soup, and barley rice.

This is the original gyutan.

Looks delicious!

Taking a bite, it’s perfectly grilled and aromatic.
It has more texture than I expected—nice and chewy. Delicious!

The tail soup has a light salt flavor with beef bone broth.

Filled with plenty of green onions and bone-in beef presumably used to make the broth.

Access and Basic Information for Aji Tasuke

When visiting Sendai, this is definitely a restaurant you should visit at least once.

While located in central Sendai, it’s a bit of a distance from the station (about 15 minutes from Kotodai-koen Station), so plan to walk or take a taxi.

Despite being located in central Naha, this is a precious spot where you can enjoy delicious, homestyle Okinawan cooking.

My hometown of Nagasaki is famous for Chanpon, but I was shocked to discover that Okinawa serves a completely different dish with the same name…!

Mikado – An Authentic Okinawan Dining Spot in Central Naha

Here’s the exterior. The character of the font is wonderful.

Quite an impactful sign. But that’s what makes it great.

Remarkably, this restaurant operates 24 hours a day.
I wish we had one near me…

Inside, Okinawan mothers prepare the food for guests.

Mysterious artwork on the wall.

The menu features both standard items and distinctly Okinawan dishes like champuru.

Distinctly Okinawan Cuisine Different from Mainland Japan

When I first came, I ordered katsudon (breaded pork cutlet over rice).

You might wonder why ordering katsudon in Okinawa, but it’s slightly different from regular (or as Okinawans call it, “mainland”) katsudon.

As you can see, it’s loaded with cabbage and carrots.
According to the restaurant’s explanation, the Okinawan mama here adds plenty of vegetables for nutritional balance. Delicious!

The side dish is mozuku (sea grape). Very Okinawan.

There was another menu item I was curious about, so I decided to return the next day.

That item was Okinawan Chanpon.

Chanpon is famous as a specialty dish from my hometown of Nagasaki.
I wondered what Okinawan chanpon would be like…

This is Okinawan chanpon!

Clearly a completely different dish. This is a rice bowl dish…

It’s a dish with vegetables and corned beef mixed with egg over rice.
Okinawan “chanpon” is an entirely different dish!

Want Authentic Okinawan Food in Central Naha? Mikado Comes Highly Recommended!

I’ve grown quite fond of Mikado and now visit whenever I have business in Naha’s central area.

Enjoying authentic Okinawan food in an unpretentious dining spot like this is truly a wonderful experience.

I’ve been to Ganso Nagahama-ya before, so this time I decided to visit Fukiya, an okonomiyaki restaurant.

When it comes to okonomiyaki, I only knew “Hiroshima-style” and “Kansai-style,” but what exactly is Fukiya’s okonomiyaki, which is neither of those?

Fukiya – Hakata’s Distinctive Okonomiyaki Establishment

Fukiya apparently has multiple locations throughout Fukuoka Prefecture, but this time I visited the Akasaka branch.
※Note: Fukiya’s Akasaka location has closed as of 2024.

Following the directions on my iPhone map, I arrived at… wait, here?
It’s quite… a narrow market, isn’t it? (My apologies to those involved.)

I ventured down the narrow alley.
This area is relatively urban, close to Tenjin, Fukuoka’s most vibrant district, yet I never knew such a place existed here.

Continuing further, I spotted a lantern reading “Okonomiyaki.”

I’d arrived!

Pushing through the aged noren curtain, I entered.

A quaint, old-fashioned establishment with good atmosphere.

The shop owner was vigorously cooking on the griddle.

The menu shows its age. Prices are very reasonable!

As of 2024, the Akasaka branch featured in this article has closed, though apparently eight other locations remain operating in Fukuoka City.

Thick, Crispy, and Generous – Hakata’s Distinctive “Hakata Okonomiyaki”

Before long, my ordered meat okonomiyaki (¥500) arrived!

The surface is coated with sauce and burned until crispy and parched.

On the table are thick mayonnaise and sauce.

I drizzled on the thick mayonnaise, rarely seen at other okonomiyaki restaurants.

The sauce is even thicker and more viscous than the mayo.

The okonomiyaki itself contains no soba noodles, but compared to Kansai-style, it’s distinctly thick.
The surface is cooked until it becomes crispy and parched. It’s packed with volume and quite delicious!

To be honest, I prefer Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, but this is worthwhile in its own way.

Not absolutely amazing, but the kind of flavor you occasionally crave.

Final Thoughts

I had no association of okonomiyaki with Fukuoka, yet here was this restaurant all along.

I’d definitely like to visit again occasionally!

Recently, a friend from Tokyo came to visit me in Fukuoka, so I welcomed them with motsunabe!

While Fukuoka has numerous motsunabe restaurants, I was surprised by the luxurious interior and atmosphere of the famous establishment Yamanaka Akasaka branch, which resembles a high-end hotel.

Of course, the signature miso motsunabe and other dishes are excellent!

Yamanaka Akasaka – Decorated Like an Upscale International Hotel

Located about 3 minutes on foot from Akasaka subway station, it’s on the 2nd floor of a building with a supermarket called “Sunny” on the ground floor.

The entrance is like this.

Climbing the stairs reveals… a Western-style landing that makes you doubt this is really a motsunabe restaurant.

The entranceway.

The waiting area at the entrance.

How sophisticated…

Even the counter.
By any measure, this looks more like a luxury overseas hotel than a motsunabe restaurant.

But when shown to the back, it’s definitely a motsunabe restaurant.

The dining space is like this. Private rooms are also available.

Miso-Flavored Motsunabe is Especially Recommended! Other Dishes Like Spicy Cod Roe Are Also Delicious

The menu features motsunabe (miso, soy sauce, and shabu-shabu style), as well as spicy mentaiko (cod roe).

The selection of alcoholic beverages is also extensive.

First, we toast and enjoy edamame.

Vinegared offal, a standard appetizer in Fukuoka. Delicious.

Serving individual spicy cod roe is quite rare. Genuinely delicious.

And here comes the main event—miso motsunabe!!

This is truly delicious. I’m basically a “motsunabe should be soy sauce” person, but this miso motsunabe genuinely awakened me to its charms.

Of course, we finish with chanpon noodles.

And then…

Motsunabe Round 2—soy sauce flavored motsunabe!

This is also undoubtedly delicious.

We finish this one with double chanpon noodles.

Simply delicious!

After the hot pot, we relax while sipping drinks.

My friend strikes a pose reminiscent of something seen before.

On the way to the restroom is this space. What is this…so stylish…

By now, it’s impossible to tell what kind of business this is.
Incidentally, the restroom was also impeccably clean, befitting a luxury hotel.

Thank you for the wonderful meal!

Final Thoughts

True to Fukuoka’s status as the sacred home of motsunabe, there’s such variety in atmosphere and flavor that you never tire. And rarely do you encounter a disappointing meal.

This is an undeniably excellent establishment, so definitely visit when you come to Fukuoka!

Since I was there, I decided to visit the Orion Beer factory tour!

The factory is located in Nago, a city in Okinawa Prefecture.

View larger map

The tour facility is called Orion Happy Park.

Entrance is through this gate.

Same-day visits are possible if there’s availability, but advance reservations are recommended.

There’s also a dining space where lunch buffets are available.

Right at the entrance are large brewing kettles on display.

Before the factory tour, visitors wait at the top of the escalator.

There’s the ORION Retro Museum where you can learn a bit about ORION’s history.

There’s also a recreation of an old Okinawan shop.

There was nothing like this near my hometown, yet it feels strangely nostalgic.

There are also vintage newspapers on display.

A collection of historical Orion Beer cans. Even the old designs were quite stylish.

And here are vintage bottles.

You can also see barrel-filling machinery through glass. (Though it wasn’t operating at the time…)

When the brewery guide arrives, the factory tour begins.

…However, unfortunately photography isn’t allowed during the tour, so there are no photos from that section.

At the end of the tour, a display shows how much Orion Beer is produced in just one minute.
It’s quite impressive production volume!

After the tour, visitors can enjoy free beer tastings in the adjacent space. You can even exchange your badge for a refill of canned beer.

For non-drinkers and drivers, soft drinks are also available.

Fresh beer, produced 3 days to 1 week prior, is poured for guests.

Looks delicious! And it was!

Turmeric jelly and peanut snacks are also included.
These were surprisingly delicious too.

If you’re in the area or visiting Okinawa for tourism, why not stop by?

工場見学と施設のご案内 - オリオンビール

オリオンハッピーパークへようこそ。工場見学と施設内のご案内です。ショップなど。

www.orionbeer.co.jp

立山黒部アルペンルート公式サイト

富山と長野を結ぶ標高3,000m級の北アルプスを貫く世界有数の雲上山岳観光ルート。立山黒部アルペンルートは様々な乗り物を乗り継ぎながら、気軽に大自然が生み出す絶景を楽しめます。

www.alpen-route.com

Transferring between trains, cable cars, trolley buses, and ropeway cars while enjoying the vast natural beauty of the Northern Alps. Walking across the famous Kurobe Dam. The changing seasonal landscape is another highlight.

I previously traveled this Alpine Route round-trip, so here’s my report. (I visited in early October 2015)

The spectacular views from mountain peaks, mountains tinged in red and yellow—it was full of wonderful scenery!

Starting from Tateyama Station, the Toyama-Side Entry Point, via Dentetsu Toyama Station Near Toyama Station

The starting point is Dentetsu Toyama Station, located right next to Toyama Station.

This is the terminal station of the Toyama Chiho Railway line, serving as the Toyama-side entry point to the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route at Tateyama, and also providing access to Unazuki Onsen, where you can ride the Kurobe Gorge Railway trolley train.

Two retro electric trains were parked at the small platform.

Boarding this train, I headed straight to Tateyama Station. The journey from Toyama Station takes about 1 hour.

Arrived at Tateyama Station! Hikers and mountain climbers streamed off the train.

There are also many international tourists, and the station stairs already display signage in Japanese, English, Korean, simplified and traditional Chinese, and even Thai.

Despite being a weekday, Tateyama Station was crowded with visitors. Surrounded by trees tinged yellow, the scenery was already impressive at this point.

Ascending via Cable Car and Bus from Tateyama Station

At the ticket office, I purchased a round-trip ticket to the final destination, Ogizawa (¥13,360).
Though called a “round-trip,” it’s not simply going and returning—it’s a long journey transferring between cable cars, buses, trolley buses, and ropeway cars.

Got the ticket! “TATEYAMA EKI”

Starting here! I was dressed light in just a hoodie, but others appeared quite serious about mountain climbing.

Checking the signage… wait, 3°C? That cold…? Though I wasn’t planning to climb, maybe I should have dressed warmer.

While pondering this, the first cable car arrived. I boarded immediately.

The vehicle itself is angled along the slope, so the seating is characteristically tiered like stairs.

The cable car, carrying many passengers, powerfully climbs a slope that would be impossible to walk up.

In less than 10 minutes, we arrived at Bijodaira. At 475m elevation for Tateyama Station versus 977m for Bijodaira, the cable car had ascended about 500m.

The station had a fairly large souvenir shop and was quite lively.

Next, I boarded a high-speed bus heading to Murodo via Midagahara.

Along the route, there are scenic viewpoints, walking trails, hotels, and various bus stops. The 23km, approximately 50-minute journey is quite long.

Before that, I took a moment to observe the Bijosugis (beautiful cedar trees) standing beside Bijodaira Station. These are truly magnificent trees!

“Beautiful cedar of the sacred mountain, if you have a heart, did you hear my secret prayer?” Chanting this poem three times is said to grant love to anyone, regardless of gender.
Three times? The legend creator could have lowered the bar a bit.

Next, boarding the bus. Before and after this section feature cable cars or trolley buses with their own special characteristics, but this appears to be an ordinary tour bus.

One highlight along the route is Takimidai (waterfall viewing platform), where a distant waterfall is visible. I didn’t capture it well, so please see it in person!

Midagahara, which has a hotel and serves as the entrance to a walking trail, was passed through quickly due to time constraints.

As the bus climbs from 977m at Bijodaira to 2,450m at Murodo, spectacular views of the Northern Alps mountains appear through the windows. My excitement grew!

Arrived at Murodo! Most mountaineers’ destination is here, where the climbing trail begins.

Murodo’s High Elevation Brings Cold, But Exceptional Views! From Daikaenbou to Kurobe Daira

Stepping outside the station revealed this view! The steep face of Tateyama.
But the high elevation means it’s quite cold. Even in early October, temperatures can be in the single digits, so proper winter clothing is necessary.

Many hikers headed toward the steep mountain.

Accidents occur relatively frequently here, and an incident map was posted.
When mountaineering, ensure equipment and physical condition are optimal, and don’t forget to check the weather forecast.

From here, I took a trolley bus to Daikaenbou. Interestingly, there’s another famous viewpoint with the same name in Aso, Kumamoto.
(I recalled when my navigation system suddenly aimed for Toyama when I was trying to reach Aso’s Daikaenbou.)

This trolley bus is unique in Japan—it’s the only place where this vehicle operates. Like trains, it draws power from overhead wires. The sensation is oddly between a train and a bus. Of course, it can only travel on designated routes.

The Daikaenbou stop is relatively small. However, souvenir shops operate normally.

Stepping outside during the brief transfer time revealed this view! Living up to the name “Daikaenbou,” the vista was magnificent.
Though the sun angle was less than ideal at that time, I could see the majestic natural beauty of the Northern Alps.

With limited time, I skipped detailed sightseeing and headed to the ropeway station.

Gazing at autumn foliage-colored mountains far below, we proceed onward. At this evening hour, everything was in shadow. Yet still beautiful.

Arrived at Kurobe Daira. With closing time near, fewer people were around.

Even on Clear Days, Evening Lighting at Kurobe Daira-Kurobe Lake Isn’t Ideal. Morning Visits Recommended

Outside the station, reddened trees and mountains were visible, but the sun angle made them appear suboptimal. This too would be saved for tomorrow.

From here, a cable car descends toward Kurobe Lake.

Kurobe Lake Station is one of the Alpine Route’s premier tourist attractions—you can actually walk across the famous Kurobe Dam.

Passing through a stone tunnel…

There it is—Kurobe Dam!

…But again, poor lighting!

The next day I returned and saw a beautifully lit Kurobe Dam.

With the final connection to Nagano Prefecture’s Ogizawa Station approaching, I hurried through the dam and back to the station.

Kurobe Dam was the filming location for actor Yujiro Ishihara’s movies and programs like Project X. This crucial facility, built through arduous and dangerous construction efforts, supported Japan during the high-growth economic period.

Overnight Stay at Omachi Onsen Area on the Nagano Side

From Kurobe Dam to Ogizawa Station, I took a trolley bus again, crossing the prefectural border between Toyama and Nagano.

From Ogizawa Station, buses transport passengers down to the town below. I had accommodation in nearby Omachi Onsen, so I headed there.

Despite being called an onsen resort, it was quite small and quiet. I walked to the accommodation.

I stayed at the highly-rated Hotel Yume no Yu.

I was momentarily surprised seeing “Hakata” on the reservation, thinking I was booked under my hometown name!

Though I booked an economical plan, I enjoyed delicious meals including sukiyaki and hot springs. After quite a bit of walking, I slept soundly.

Returning to Kurobe Lake – Morning Sunshine Reveals Panoramic Alpine Treasures

The next day, I took a bus again from Omachi Onsen to Ogizawa Station, then a trolley bus to Kurobe Dam.

On a sunny morning, Kurobe Dam was nothing short of spectacular. If you’re planning to visit, pay attention not just to the weather, but also to the time of day.

Retracing yesterday’s route in reverse, I next headed to Kurobe Daira. The weather was excellent, and I could take in an unobstructed view of the connected Northern Alps peaks. Absolutely gorgeous!

Early October, with foliage just beginning, offers a beautiful gradient of red, yellow, and green.

Earlier in the season, everything would be lush green; later, the reds and yellows would be more vivid. It’s a place worth visiting multiple times.

Kurobe Daira sits at 1,828m elevation. The highest peak in Kyushu (excluding islands) is Kujusan in Oita at 1,791m—so this location alone is higher! Truly worthy of the Japanese Alps designation.
The signage read “Take only photographs, leave only footprints,” so I strolled around and captured photos accordingly.

Another charm of Kurobe Daira is viewing the passing ropeway from below.

Boarding the ropeway while gazing at autumn mountains, I headed to Daikaenbou.

At an even higher elevation of 2,316m, the terrace views here were similarly exceptional.

The green visible below is Kurobe Lake. It’s hard to believe this massive lake is man-made.
Steep mountains surround it on all sides.

I hadn’t noticed the day before, but there were also photos of the famous “Snow Valley Walk,” visible April through June. This unique experience of walking alongside towering walls of snow is something I’d like to experience someday.

At Murodo, like the previous day, I peeked at the mountain climbing route entrance, but dense fog obscured everything. Mountain weather changes rapidly.

Taking the opportunity, I also visited Midagahara along the route.

Walking the nature trail alongside well-equipped mountaineers.

The trail appeared to extend quite far inland, so considering my light equipment and time constraints, I turned back early.

Heading back to Bijodaira.

Finally, via cable car back to Tateyama Station. What a fantastic experience!

Final Thoughts

Majestic nature, humanity’s engineering marvel in the form of a massive dam and artificial lake, enjoyable variety of transportation modes—it was a journey that never grew dull.

Among Japan’s tourist attractions, I believe this is truly one worth visiting. Pick a nice weather day and definitely make the trip!

立山黒部アルペンルート公式サイト

富山と長野を結ぶ標高3,000m級の北アルプスを貫く世界有数の雲上山岳観光ルート。立山黒部アルペンルートは様々な乗り物を乗り継ぎながら、気軽に大自然が生み出す絶景を楽しめます。

www.alpen-route.com

Iojima, one of these three islands, is also home to the secret hot spring I previously reported on, Higashi Onsen.

Higashi Onsen on Iojima Island - Ultimate Hidden Hot Spring Experience in Kagoshima

Discover Higashi Onsen, a spectacular natural hot spring on Iojima Island in Mishima Village, Kagoshima. Experience soaking in natural pools surrounded by cliffs and ocean with breathtaking sunset views - truly a hidden gem among Japan's hot springs.

moreaboutjapan.com

2025.08.17

When I visited, photos I’d taken won a photo contest prize—Daimyo Takenoko (bamboo shoots).

A luxury ingredient and specialty of Takeshima, one of Mishima Village’s islands, these low-bitterness shoots can even be eaten raw. They’re called a “miraculous bamboo shoot.”

I quickly prepared and tasted them, and remarkably, virtually no bitterness emerged. They’re wonderfully aromatic, rich, and delicious!

Freshness is crucial and the season is limited, making acquisition difficult. But as awareness grows, they may eventually be distributed nationwide. In any case, these are absolutely worth tasting!

Takeshima Island Covered in Bamboo – The Miracle Takenoko “Daimyo Takenoko”

Daimyo takenoko are harvested on Takeshima Island, covered in bamboo (Ryukyu bamboo) as the name suggests.
※This is a different island from the disputed “Takeshima” controlled by South Korea—this is part of Japanese territory.

The following is a photo of Takeshima taken when passing by ferry. The overwhelming green covering the entire island is bamboo. Completely covered.

Daimyo takenoko from Takeshima arrived at my home in Fukuoka!
The name reportedly comes from the fact that due to regional limitations and difficult distribution, only feudal lords (daimyo) could enjoy this luxury ingredient.

True to its name, Takeshima Island is completely covered in bamboo. The island’s specialty is this bamboo—specifically Ryukyu bamboo, which grows only in Okinawa and Kagoshima. These takenoko shoots have virtually no bitterness and are edible raw, making them exceptionally delicious. However, due to regional limitations and difficult distribution, historically only feudal lords could enjoy them. For this reason they’re also called “Daimyo Takenoko,” and today they remain a premium ingredient in high demand.
Daimyo Takenoko Harvesting | Island Geopark Mishima Village, Kagoshima Prefecture

Impressive specimens indeed.

“Season-limited to May-June each year,” “low in bitterness,” and “edible raw”—truly miraculous takenoko.

To be honest, I’d never prepared takenoko from this raw state before, but fortunately preparation instructions were included. Problem solved.

Quick Boil and Taste – Minimal Bitterness, Wonderful Aroma!

First, I alternately removed the takenoko skin until reaching white-to-yellow coloring.
Initially I thought it tedious, but the smooth peeling was oddly satisfying—I almost regretted finishing the last one!

The inedible tip and root sections are trimmed away.

When fresh, they can be eaten raw, but since mine arrived slightly later, I decided to boil them as a precaution, following the included recipe.

Typically rice bran and chili peppers are added, with boiling times of 30 minutes to an hour. However, for daimyo takenoko with minimal bitterness, just 5 minutes in salted water suffices.
Following these instructions exactly.

After boiling and cooling—as you can see, virtually no bitterness emerged! I didn’t skim any scum either.

Cut in half and drain the internal moisture.

Now to try eating it as-is.

The presentation wasn’t quite traditional—a more formal Japanese plate and garnish might have been better.

Tasting it, I thought “Is this really takenoko?” The absence of harshness and wonderful aroma that fills the mouth is remarkable.
It’s delicious plain, and equally excellent with soy sauce or salt.

Takenoko usually features in simmered dishes, but eaten solo like this, it’s truly exceptional.
Or perhaps this is so good specifically because it’s daimyo takenoko and not ordinary shoots.

The remainder goes into a zip-lock bag—refrigerate for short-term storage, freeze for longer.

Equally Delicious in Prepared Dishes

Following the included recipes, I tried sautéing in butter,

Mixing with egg,

And adding to simmered dishes.

Though takenoko typically plays a supporting role, these specimens assert themselves boldly, enhancing every dish they appear in.

Final Thoughts

Currently available only during limited seasons through limited distribution channels as a premium product, but depending on future developments, they may become more widely available.

For more details, check out these pages!

鹿児島県三島村産の大名筍 | 公式サイトTOPページ

三島村で収穫できる大名筍は筍の王様とも呼ばれており、濃厚な味と歯ごたえが特徴です。大きな特徴は、「アク抜きの必要がない」ことです。えぐみが少なく爽やかでシャキシャキの食感はまさに絶品で、旬を感じる高級食材として、さまざまな飲食店で重宝されて...

takenoko.link

鹿児島県三島村｜GO!MISHIMA

鹿児島県の南方に浮かぶ3つの離島、三島村の情報サイト。三島村は人口約350人の小さな村で、日本ジオパークや県立自然公園に認定されている魅力あふれる島々です。島の日常をありのままお伝えします。

mishima.link