Tsuruchan Café in Nagasaki: Visiting Kyushu’s Oldest Coffee Shop for Turkish Rice and Milkshake

I was born and raised in Nagasaki, and lived there until high school.

Even now, I go back to Nagasaki during New Year’s and summer holidays to visit family.

This time, I decided to revisit a well-known and nostalgic café called Tsuruchan—a name that may sound unique to outsiders but is familiar to locals. I used to frequent their old branch in Shindaikumachi as a kid.

Today, they only operate one location near Shianbashi.

Tsuruchan is considered the oldest café in Kyushu and is famous for its Turkish rice and milkshake.

Though I had likely visited the main store before, my memory was fuzzy, so I decided to stop by again to refresh it!

The Oldest Café in Kyushu: Tsuruchan’s Building Feels Surprisingly Modern

Tsuruchan is located just past the Nishihamamachi arcade (Kanko-dori) heading east toward Shianbashi.

The building’s exterior has a certain character.

I visited on January 2nd, when Nagasaki is full of tourists and returnees for the New Year. The café was quite busy, with occasional lines forming outside.

Inside, tables were packed closely together, probably to maximize capacity.

Founded in 1925, the café displays many old photos and decorations that attempt to recreate the early Showa era atmosphere. But because the building itself is rather new, the retro vibe feels slightly forced.

Maybe due to the New Year rush, items like doria, pizza, and the service lunch weren’t available that day.

I ordered their most classic item: “Nostalgic Turkish Rice.” But at ¥1,180, it felt a bit steep.

Another highlight is their Nagasaki-style milkshake. I added a half-size shake for an extra ¥350.

The menu also proudly declares the café’s status as the oldest in Kyushu.

There are even matchbox designs and clippings explaining the store’s unique name.

Still, the modern décor lacks the authentic Taisho or Showa-era charm. Some of the cheap tablecloths and touristy posters on the walls dilute the old-school vibe.

Turkish Rice That Feels Like a School Lunch—Definitely Not Worth ¥1,180

The staff that day included one emotionless lady who shouted every order loudly, and a more cheerful young man. Her loud “Thanks for waiting!!” startled many customers.

The place was packed, and it took an astonishing 50 minutes *after* ordering to get my food.

I remembered going with my now-deceased grandmother and younger brother to their former branch years ago, waiting over an hour. Funny how that memory came back.

I passed the time working and gaming, until finally, the Turkish Rice arrived!

Their version consists of plain rice, cutlet topped with curry sauce, and pasta without any toppings—no dry curry or fancy additions.

One bite and… hmm.

The pork cutlet was thin but crispy—nothing remarkable though. The curry sauce was mild and sweet, more like a school cafeteria dish. The pasta? Just basic Napolitan with no ingredients.

For ¥1,180, this was honestly disappointing. It felt more like a ¥600 meal at best.

The Milkshake Tastes Nostalgically Simple

The milkshake had a faint dairy aroma and mild sweetness—refreshing and light.

It wasn’t as rich or condensed as it looked, but it did evoke a sense of nostalgia.

While not mind-blowingly delicious, it might hit home for some locals. I didn’t grow up drinking these often, so I can’t say if it’s a traditional taste.

Final Thoughts

Considering the taste, price, and long wait times, I wouldn’t recommend this café to tourists.

It feels like one of those places that lost its soul and caters only to visitors now.

I really hope they regain their pride and serve truly delicious food again…

*Note: My visit was in January 2016. The quality may have changed since then.

I usually write about places I recommend, but despite its fame, Tsuruchan didn’t live up to my expectations. So, I decided to give readers an honest review.

It would be unfortunate if people left Nagasaki thinking, “Is this the best food they have?” There’s so much better out there.

If you’re looking for good Turkish Rice, I highly recommend Restaurant Primrose near Meganebashi—it’s far better.

My personal favorite was a place called “Astoria,” but sadly it closed years ago due to the owner’s health.

If you’re just curious about visiting Kyushu’s oldest café, go ahead. But if your goal is to enjoy a delicious meal in Nagasaki, I wouldn’t recommend it.