Recently during an Okinawa trip, a local friend recommended I visit Akajima(阿嘉島), a small remote island, so I spent one night there.
It’s just a 50-minute high-speed ferry ride from Naha, but the ocean is incredibly beautiful. And because there are few lights, the night sky is absolutely stunning with stars everywhere.
Colorful tropical fish, sea turtles if you’re lucky, pristine turquoise waters, and a sky overflowing with stars—the experience moved me deeply.
I took lots of photos, so I’d like to share this report with you!
Ferry from Naha to Akajima Island: Staying at Guesthouse Minshuku Tomizato
From Tomari Port in Naha City, I took the “Queen Zamami” high-speed ferry to Akajima.
From Okinawa’s main island to Akajima, there are two transport options: the Queen Zamami (high-speed ferry) running 3 times daily with a 50-minute trip, and the Ferry Zamami (regular ferry) running once daily with a 90-minute trip.
(Schedules vary by season, so check the Zamami Village Official Website)
It wasn’t an especially rough day, but the ferry did rock quite a bit. I heard that in stormy weather it gets pretty intense.
Apparently the regular ferry rocks less than the high-speed ferry.
We arrived at Akajima!
The guesthouse had sent a vehicle to pick us up.
Through the trees, emerald green beach and ocean. Absolutely stunning!
We also spotted wild deer in the vegetation.
This is the Minshuku Tomizato (Tula Tu) where I was staying.
Though we arrived by vehicle, it’s less than a 10-minute walk from the port. The settlement itself is small and compact, so most accommodations and shops cluster in this area.
My room had character.
It had air conditioning, so it was quite comfortable.
I arrived in late afternoon when dinner was coming up soon, but I couldn’t resist heading to the beach. I went to Nishi Beach (read as “Nishi,” confusingly), Akajima’s most famous and largest beach.
When I went snorkeling, the clear water was full of fish. This looked like it would be really fun to explore!
Back at the guesthouse, dinner was ready. Fried grouper, sashimi, meat, sea grapes, salad, soup—such a variety and everything delicious!
All the guests ate together at a long table, which reminded me of summer camp.
Okinawan “Yuntaku” with Guests and the Owner: Spectacular Starry Night
The sun was setting.
“Yuntaku” time, common at Okinawan guesthouses.
The whole group gathers in a large room at night, drinks, and chats—that’s what yuntaku means.
Here, they served us awamori (Okinawan spirits).
And snacks too! Bonito seasoned with just salt. Delicious!
After that, we headed to a nearby beach to watch the stars. My camera couldn’t capture it, but I was moved to tears by the starry sky—more stars than I’d ever seen before. Just seeing that view made the whole trip worthwhile.
Swimming with Sea Turtles at Akajima Beach
The next morning, breakfast.
By the way, while my room had some age to it, the second floor seemed to be a recent addition—it was brand new and very clean.
Filling up for the ocean adventures ahead.
I hopped on the free rental bike to “Akajima Beach,” where I’d heard from yuntaku that sea turtles could be spotted.
I brought my own snorkeling gear, but the guesthouse also loans equipment free of charge.
(Some guesthouses charge, so check in advance.)
I arrived at Akajima Beach, right near the port.
Nishi Beach from yesterday is more famous, but this beach is packed with fish too. And sea turtles live here!
This is blurry because it’s a screenshot from iPhone video in a waterproof case, but I successfully encountered a sea turtle. Swimming so close alongside it was an incredible experience!
(The turtle doesn’t flee from people, but don’t touch it!)
But operating through a waterproof case is inconvenient, and it’s hard to get good focus.
Next time, I’m bringing a waterproof camera.
Brilliant Blue Waters Seen from Akajima Bridge
The ocean around the port and Akajima Bridge. Beautiful.
For lunch, I went to “Parlor Miyama,” one of the few island restaurants.
You can eat while gazing at the beach and ocean.
Curry, and on a whim I ordered a beer too.
While I was at it, I decided to cross the Akajima Bridge and venture to Gechi Island, which is accessible by land.
The view of the ocean from that bridge is the most vibrant blue—the most striking sight of my visit. It looked this blue straight from the iPhone with no editing… you really should see it in person.
After pedaling hard up and down hilly terrain, I reached Kerama Airport.
But since the airport is no longer in use, there was literally nothing there.
Not a soul around. (Though maybe someone was inside the building?)
No planes or anything—just empty grounds. Probably didn’t need to visit, haha.
Before heading back, I snorkeled at Nishi Beach one more time to my heart’s content.
The ride back was in the bed of a pickup truck from the guesthouse to the port. That was nice too.
It was a wonderful trip.
The return ferry was surprisingly crowded.
The indoor seating was full, so despite the heat, I headed to the outdoor deck.
From atop the breakwater, the guesthouse owner and other guests waved goodbye to us departing visitors.
And then, for some reason, they jumped in. Haha!
Apparently that’s a normal way to see people off here (or at least at this guesthouse).
Final Thoughts
It was my first time visiting such a small island in Okinawa, but I had such wonderful experiences—the ocean, the stars—it was beyond words.
The guesthouse had many repeat customers, and now I understand why.
Next time I visit Okinawa, I definitely want to return to Akajima! It’s a special place.
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