Hakata Daruma is one of the names that comes up when discussing representative ramen shops in Fukuoka.
Personally, I didn’t care for what I had at Hakata Station before and avoided it for a while, but I reconsidered that I should properly check by eating at the main branch, so I headed to the main branch located off Watanabe-dori.
“Daruma Ramen,” the predecessor of Hakata Daruma, was a ramen shop once operated by current owner Hideto Kawahara’s parents in Hakozaki, Higashi Ward. Hideto Kawahara is also the founder of the famous “Hidechan Ramen.” What a ramen dynasty.
After temporarily closing in 2000, his son Hideto inherited it and revived it at the current location, continuing to this day. Actually, I also lived in Hakozaki during my student days, so my friends and I often went to “Daruma Ramen.”
So it should be a nostalgic taste, but I feel the flavor is quite different from back then. Though my memory is admittedly hazy… It was over 20 years ago, after all.
So, setting aside the past, this visit was to judge based on the current taste.
Access and Transportation to Hakata Daruma Main Branch
Hakata Daruma Main Branch is on the southern edge of Tenjin, Fukuoka City’s premier entertainment district. It’s quite a distance – about a 16-minute walk from Subway Airport Line Tenjin Station, or about an 8-minute walk from Nanakuma Line Tenjin-Minami Station, somewhat far.
Unless you want to enjoy a walk, I recommend taking Nishitetsu Bus or taxi.
For example, from Hakata Station, depending on the route and time, it takes about 15 minutes total, including about 4 minutes walking.
There’s also the option of using rental bicycle service. In Fukuoka as of 2022, “ChariChari” is pretty much the only option.
Heading to Hakata Daruma Main Branch, South of Tenjin
The main branch of “Hakata Daruma” is slightly south of Tenjin, about a 10-minute walk from Tenjin-Minami Station. The modest building and additions are characteristic, unlike what you’d expect from a famous shop’s main branch.
It’s a meal ticket system, with ramen at 700 yen – quite an aggressive price. Noodle firmness can be chosen from barikatta, kata, regular, or yawa. As an aside, Fukuoka locals mostly order “kata.” Occasionally “regular.” Mostly tourists order “barikatta.”
The interior has exposed concrete with a slightly stylish feel.
On the table are white pickled ginger, sesame, pepper, gyoza sauce, and chili oil. No spicy mustard greens.
【April 2018】Slightly Heavy on Fat? But Delicious Ramen
The ramen arrived shortly after. Looks like standard Hakata ramen.
The toppings are also orthodox – just two slices of chashu and green onions.
A sip of soup… oh!? Much tastier than my previous impression. (Sorry) When I ate at Hakata Station before, the flavor seemed thin, but this has a moderate pork bone flavor with decent punch.
Not my top recommendation, but much tastier than I remembered. Maybe because it’s the main branch. (@ Hakata Daruma in Fukuoka City, Fukuoka) https://t.co/7PAQodPLqD pic.twitter.com/tURMxMaOYC
— Shotaro Ushijima (@ushigyu) March 30, 2018
The noodles are ultra-thin, which as far as I remember, I’ve only seen at Shin-Shin. Recommended to order kata and eat quickly.
The chashu is slightly out of focus, but typical of Hakata ramen – two thin slices without much volume, but the flavor is well absorbed.
It’s reasonably delicious, but personally I feel there’s a bit too much fat for the flavor intensity. The richness is 5 out of 5, but the flavor punch is only about 3 out of 5, so it feels unbalanced. If going for rich and hearty, I’d want a more powerful flavor, and if aiming for accessible and balanced taste, I’d want less fat. After eating, it hit my stomach several times harder than the impression while eating.
【April 2022】Recreating Original Recipe: Transformed into Intensely Rich, Pork-Smelling Wild Ramen!
The “Hakata Daruma Main Branch” ramen I saw in YouTube videos looked completely different from what I’d eaten before…! To verify what was happening, I revisited in April 2022 after a long absence.
The signboard that should have been white is now orange, already different from the exterior.
Compared to four years ago, ramen has only increased by 20 yen. The menu has expanded with fried rice and small appetizers.
Inside the shop is the signboard from when they operated in Hakozaki, Higashi Ward from founding until around 2000. Actually, I attended Kyushu University in Hakozaki starting in 1999 right before they closed, so I often ate Daruma Ramen after drinking. So nostalgic.
I admittedly don’t remember the visuals from 20 years ago well, but the ramen photo is clearly a different color from four years ago. What kind of ramen will arrive…?
The ramen that arrived bore no resemblance to four years ago. What is this brown foam…! While Ikkousha and Issou are famous for foam-style ramen, this has a different wild color.
The tsukimi ramen my wife ordered. This also naturally has the same base, so wild appearance.
My ramen has such a thick layer of fat (lard?) that when I put in chopsticks, I can see through it for a while.
When I scoop it with a spoon, it looks about 70% fat. Is this the default…?
But when I work hard to mix from the bottom and scoop and drink, while wild and pork-smelling, it has strong umami and is very delicious! While easy-to-eat, well-behaved ramen suppressing pork smell is increasing, “Hakata Daruma Main Branch” that dared to change to this much wildness is not to be underestimated…!
Since it was so different from last time, I researched and found they renewed to the original recipe on the occasion of their 58th anniversary in December 2021. Only the main branch changed to the original recipe, while other branches keep the previous “Hakata Daruma” taste.
The noodles are ultra-thin, firmly bringing the soup flavor to your mouth.
The fried rice and gyoza are also properly delicious. Should satisfyingly and deliciously fill the stomachs of those wanting to eat heartily.
Still, the amount of fat in my ramen seemed excessive, but my wife’s ramen (though it has a fat layer) wasn’t as much as my soup. Since I didn’t order extra rich, there may still be quality variations since they just renewed. Looking forward to improvements.
It had become completely different from the previous “Hakata Daruma Main Branch” image – wild, pork-smelling ramen with intense punch. I also ate at Hakozaki Daruma often, but I honestly don’t remember how accurate the flavor recreation is… It was over 20 years ago after all. (I feel there was a fat layer, but not this much punch power…)
People who like “that kind of ramen” will surely love it. Very delicious but beware of indigestion.
Final Thoughts
Ramen preferences vary widely, so as with any shop, some people will like it and others won’t. There’s no doubt it’s one of Fukuoka’s leading famous shops, so I think it’s worth visiting and judging for yourself!
| Restaurant Name | Hakata Daruma |
|---|---|
| Phone | 092-761-1958 |
| Address | 1-8-25 Watanabe-dori, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka Prefecture |
| Business Hours | 12:00-14:00, 19:00-23:00 |
| Closed | Tuesdays, January 1-2 |
| Web | Official: Hakata Daruma / Hidechan Ramen D&H Inc., D&K Inc. Retty: Hakata Daruma (Yakuin/Ramen) – Retty |
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