This past summer, I set foot in Aomori Prefecture for the first time. Guided by a friend who lives there, I visited a place in Hachinohe City called “Kabushima.”
Designated a natural monument as a breeding ground for black-tailed gulls, the sheer number of gulls lining the shore and calling out was unlike anything I’d ever seen.
If you travel to Aomori, Kabushima is an absolute must!
The Gull-Dominated Island of Kabushima
Here is Kabushima. Passing through the torii gate leads you to Kabushima Shrine. Originally a true island, it was connected to the mainland by land reclamation about 70 years ago.
Located on the coast of Hachinohe—Aomori’s second-largest city, which suffered heavy damage in the 2011 Tōhoku earthquake.
No sooner had we arrived than countless gulls greeted us. Incredible.
Even the hotel shuttle bus was claimed by gulls.
They occupied metal railings, too.
Along the nearby water’s edge, they formed a solid line. This island truly belongs to the gulls.
I edged closer to capture them in action.
Gulls in Formation Around the Shrine
Passing under the torii and climbing to the shrine, gulls stood guard on both sides like sentinels.
A small resting bench was even overtaken by gulls.
Gulls formed squads overlooking the sea—a striking sight.
Getting very close still didn’t scare them off:
Two regal gulls with the sea behind them.
A brown gull turned out to be a juvenile—the plumage so different I almost missed it!
I even got photobombed while photographing:
That Saturday, I also witnessed a wedding at the shrine—newlyweds flanked by thousands of gulls!
The shrine’s true guardian is the gull itself.
Let’s end with their mewing chorus echoing through the grounds (volume warning):
Afterword
I visited in early August, but the gulls begin to leave around that time. Their peak numbers are April–June during breeding season, when the displays are even more incredible—though beware a high chance of “gull bombs”! (Umbrellas are on hand, but caution is advised.) When you travel in Tōhoku, make sure to experience Kabushima—it’s breathtaking!
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