More About Japan 
People often ask me, “Where can I eat well in Nagasaki?”
But since I only lived there until graduating high school, I didn’t venture out much — so honestly, I don’t know that many places.
To change that, I’ve made it a habit to explore more local spots whenever I return home.
For the first installment of this mission, I chose to visit the famous Chinese restaurant Kozanro.
It’s one of the most iconic and popular restaurants in Nagasaki’s Chinatown.
It’s also well known thanks to Japanese musician Masashi Sada, who wrote a theme song for the restaurant.
I had to try it for myself — so I went!
Kozanro: The Most Famous and Beloved Restaurant in Nagasaki Chinatown
I headed to Shinchi Chinatown, located in my hometown of Nagasaki.
Although it’s one of the three major Chinatowns in Japan, it’s by far the smallest in scale.
The entire area spans just one crossroad and its surroundings — probably about one-tenth the size of Yokohama’s.
That said, the quality of the food here more than holds its own. In fact, it might be the best of the three. Of course, that depends on the restaurant.
Nagasaki actually has many Chinese restaurants scattered throughout the city — not just in Chinatown.
There aren’t many places like Ringer Hut that specialize solely in champon and sara udon.
I passed through the Chinatown gate and walked in.
That statue looks kind of scary…
Kozanro has both a main building and a new annex, located side by side.
This time, I decided to try the annex.
I was warmly greeted by a staff member in a kimono.
I was seated at a table on the first floor.
There are also round tables and private rooms on the upper floors.
The menu featured authentic Chinese cuisine.
One of their signature dishes: Sara Udon (crispy noodles with seafood and vegetables).
Their braised pork belly buns (tonpo-ro) looked tempting too…
But I had to go with their famous champon!
So I ordered the deluxe version for 1,575 yen.
Deluxe Champon with Nagasaki-Style Noodles and a Rich Seafood Broth
Here it is — the deluxe champon. So many toppings!
Wow, that looks amazing.
The topping on the very top… is that shark fin? It doesn’t have much flavor, but I think it is!
The bowl is packed with ingredients: shrimp, squid, scallops, clams, meatballs, vegetables — you name it.
Unlike the pork or chicken-based broths commonly found in other prefectures, the soup here is heavily seafood-based.
(It seems like they’ve added more meat-based stock than before… but it’s still delicious.)
The noodles are made with “touaku” — a traditional alkaline ingredient unique to Nagasaki.
It’s hard to describe, but for someone who grew up in Nagasaki, this texture and flavor define authentic champon noodles.
The Classic Starting Point for Nagasaki Cuisine: Kozanro
Because it’s so well-known, locals seem divided in opinion — but I still think Kozanro is a solid choice for anyone visiting Chinatown.
If you’re traveling to Nagasaki, make sure to stop by!
