This summer, following my winter expedition, I headed to Hokkaido again.
On the way, I stopped in Tomakomai and discovered that the local specialty is the surf clam (“hokkigai“).
You can enjoy it as sashimi, in rice bowls, sushi, and more—but what caught my eye most was the “Hokkigai Curry.”
I searched for a place that serves it and decided to try the highly recommended “Marutoma Shokudō.”
Marutoma Shokudō is right next to—or rather inside—the Tomakomai fishing port, as you can see, right by the sea.
It’s extremely popular: at noon on a weekday, this was the line.
I waited about 50 minutes. The line included salarymen on lunch break and families alike.
A sign at the entrance proclaimed Tomakomai as Japan’s top hokkigai landing port. The mascot’s wild eyes and the “HP” mention intrigued me.
The restaurant opens early for market workers, who get priority service—truly a port-side institution even as tourists flock in.
Though they also recommend ten-color bowls, tuna, and abalone, today it was all about the surf clams.
Inside, the walls are covered with signed photos of celebrities—this place is delightfully kitschy.
Guests speaking Chinese (or Taiwanese) filled the dining area—a reminder that Hokkaido is hugely popular with overseas travelers.
I ordered the Hokkigai Curry (¥1,000) and hokkigai sashimi (¥400).
In the cramped kitchen, skilled workers and their families prepare fresh fish and shellfish dishes.
Remarkably, the curry arrived within five seconds—perhaps prepped in advance given the long line.
The sauce is dark and rich, studded with generous chunks of surf clam.
Each bite of clam is tender and flavorful, and the curry sauce carries a pleasant seafood broth depth—definitely worth a meal!
A side of miso soup, rich with fish stock, accompanies the curry.
The surf clam sashimi is firmer than in the curry but still tender inside, with a sweet finish.
Despite the wait, I left extremely satisfied, even photographing the seagulls loitering outside.
Tomakomai is just an hour’s drive from Sapporo, with nearby attractions like Northern Horse Park, Noboribetsu Onsen, and Lake Shikotsu.
If you’re touring the area, be sure to stop by Marutoma Shokudō for Hokkigai Curry!
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