This past winter, I wanted to relax in a hot spring while watching the snow fall—my mind wandered between Tohoku and Hokkaido as I searched for the perfect place.
Suddenly I remembered the “phantom ice village” that appears only on the lake in winter. I vaguely recalled that there was a hot spring there, so I started researching.
What I found was Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan—just north of Obihiro, in the center of Hokkaido. “Kotan” is an Ainu word meaning “village.”
Located inland and at high elevation (804m), Shikaribetsu Lake transforms into a frozen world during the harsh winter, covered by thick layers of ice.
Local residents imagined what could be done with the ice, and so the Ice Village—Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan—was born.
For only a few months each winter, this unique ice art exists here and nowhere else. Soaking in the hot spring with the icy scenery all around truly is another level experience.
You can get there from Sapporo in about three hours by car. As a winter destination in Hokkaido’s central region, it’s a must-experience.
- The “Phantom Village” Beyond Snowy Mountains: About an Hour from Obihiro
- Hotel Fusui Lakeside Onsen: Rooms, Meals, and Hot Springs
- The Ultimate Snow-Viewing Hot Spring Experience on the Night Lake
- The Ice Bar—An Absolute Must-Visit at Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan
- Morning at Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan and Snowmobile Experience
- Parting Thoughts
The “Phantom Village” Beyond Snowy Mountains: About an Hour from Obihiro
After eating authentic pork rice bowl in Obihiro, I drove a little over an hour to Shikaribetsu Lake. The GPS kept warning “road closed ahead,” but I made it just fine. (After Shikaribetsu Lake, the road to Lake Nukabira is closed during winter.)
I stayed at “Shikaribetsu Lake Onsen Hotel Fusui.” Including this, there are only two lodgings by the lake.
Right next to it is the Shikaribetsu Lake Nature Center.
Arriving at dusk, I skipped a lengthy check-in and immediately started exploring Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan.
Walking down the snow-covered white path toward the lake.
Buildings constructed from ice.
This is the entrance to Shikaribetsu Lake and the Kotan. The stunning view looks like a snowy field, but it’s actually all frozen lake!
Charming wooden welcome sign.
Several igloo-like ice structures, plus an ice maze for kids to play.
This building is called a “Geo-Igloo.” “Igloo” refers to constructions made from compacted snow blocks. What “Geo” means is still a mystery!
Displayed inside is winter observation data: when I visited (March 2, 2017), the ice was an incredible 62cm thick. It wasn’t that cold (well, -5°C!), so perhaps I picked the perfect time.
Even on weekdays, many visitors—especially from China—were enjoying the unique walk on the frozen lake.
Among the mostly empty buildings, two features stand out.
One is the “Open-Air Ice Bath.” Mixed bathing until 6pm, men-only from 6pm–8pm, women-only from 8pm–10pm.
Even with a sign up,
it’s very easy to see people bathing, which might require some courage—especially for women. Maybe swimsuits are allowed? (Photo taken when no one was inside.)
The second highlight is the Ice Chapel at the back of the Kotan.
Inside, icicle-like symbols, candles, and a stage. It’s probably best to visit at night.
Looking back from the lake toward the hotel.
An enchanting snowfield scene at Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan. I’m going to come again at night and in the morning.
Hotel Fusui Lakeside Onsen: Rooms, Meals, and Hot Springs
One of the two hotels by Shikaribetsu Lake, Hotel Fusui.
The movie “Doraemon: Nobita’s Antarctic Kachi Kachi Adventure” was being shown at the time, and there was a collaboration sign displayed by the front desk.
The front desk. The staff guided me very kindly.
The room has a typical Japanese inn feel. Though it shows its age a bit, cleanliness is no problem.
The air conditioning and safe give off retro vibes. The TV is flat-screen now, but I bet it used to be coin-operated!
These window-side chairs, table, and refrigerator have such a Showa-era feel, don’t they?
And the ultimate throwback—this! Ah, I remember seeing this at family vacation hotels!
You don’t see these anymore, but seeing it brought back such nostalgia all at once. (Though I never actually used it!)
The bathroom. No bidet, and the toilet paper holder is surprisingly cute. It’s old but spotlessly clean.
To be honest, the meals were so-so. They’re not bad, but if you come expecting Hokkaido delicacies, you might be disappointed. (Meal plans vary, so this may differ.)
You can order local Hokkaido sake, too.
The wait staff appear to be international students from Southeast Asia. They’re working hard, but communication is sometimes tricky—either I can’t make myself understood or they don’t notice when I need something. If you expect polished service, you might find some rough edges. That said, their effort shows, so let’s be patient and supportive!
Now for the moment I’d been waiting for—a daylight soak in the hot spring! I had it to myself.
Inside, it’s incredibly hot! Sauna-like. The hot spring must be super hot.
In any case, the open-air bath is the main attraction here, so I quickly washed up and headed outside.
The snow-viewing hot spring I’d been dreaming of—and not just any snow, but gazing at the rare icy village while soaking. An unforgettable experience.
The twilight Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan spread before me. Pure bliss, pure bliss.
The Ultimate Snow-Viewing Hot Spring Experience on the Night Lake
After soaking, eating, and resting, we ventured out again once it was dark.
At night, the scenery shifts to something else entirely.
Most guests were probably relaxing in their rooms—very few people were out.
The Ice Chapel with candles lit. Beautiful atmosphere.
Yeah, a place like this would be nice to visit with a girlfriend or wife… I found myself thinking that while taking photos alone.
Well, realistically, there aren’t many people who can make it here on a weekday in March!
Looking back toward the hotel from the Ice Chapel.
It was just after 7pm; the ice open-air bath was in the men-only time slot (6pm–8pm).
I didn’t want to feel awkward about the women’s time, so now was my chance—I resolved to give it a try.
A simple changing room. Cold air seeps in everywhere, and parts of the floor are icy and freezing. What kind of ordeal is this?!
The stairs leading to the bath are icy too, so incredibly cold.
Letting out an undignified squeal, I somehow managed to get in.
The flowing hot spring is wonderfully warm, making me forget the cold and chill from moments before. Soaking in a hot spring in freezing outdoor air is incredible.
But with this view from the bath, I’m definitely completely exposed…
Even after warming up thoroughly, I still have to tackle those frozen stairs and the cold changing room again. It’s both fun and challenging!
The combination of extreme cold, basic facilities, and total exposure makes this a seriously high-difficulty ice bath experience. But it was a great memory.
The Ice Bar—An Absolute Must-Visit at Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan
Among all the buildings at Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan, the one I personally found most impressive was the Ice Bar.
Of course, not the ice cream bar—but a bar where the building and interior are completely made of ice!
Here’s the Ice Bar entrance. It opens at 8pm (during the day, it operates as an ice café).
“ICEBAR”
Not as finely carved as snow sculptures at the Sapporo Snow Festival, but an endearing polar bear is asking for donations.
Venturing deeper to the left, I found something like a small auditorium.
Wait, is something… sitting there?
A bear!! With slightly sloped shoulders!
No special events that day, so I climbed on the stage. The lonely bear seemed to watch me…
Apparently mini-concerts are held on weekends. Music plays through speakers and the acoustics are solid.
After exploring most of it, I finally headed into the actual Ice Bar.
Wow, this is cool! A building made of snow and ice, transparent ice pillars and counter, and colorful spirits.
A photogenic scene indeed. And this is Japan!
One drink is 500 yen; if you get one in an ice glass, add 500 yen.
I went for the ice glass and an original cocktail.
A thick ice glass, incredibly beautiful. The vibrant cocktail color really pops against it.
But ice is ice, so it’s freezing! I foolishly left my gloves in the room, so I covered it with a handkerchief. Can’t even see the pretty glass that way!
Tables are huge blocks of ice too. Of course, all the ice here—including this—was carved directly from Shikaribetsu Lake.
When I asked if it melts while being used, they said it does melt gradually, but it’s no problem during the Kotan season. The air temperature stays well below freezing anyway.
These ice pillars might look slender, but they’re sturdy enough to withstand small earthquakes.
Over Kotan’s 36-year history, ice architecture techniques have steadily developed. By the way, I’m the same age as Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan!
Being a weekday, only the counter had customers, but on weekends, the private ice rooms probably get lively.
Solo visits are fun, but coming here with a group to drink would be amazing too.
Second round: a vibrant green cocktail. Beautiful as well.
They mentioned they’d save me a glass if I came back tomorrow, but I had to decline due to other plans.
One of the bar staff was actually from Nagasaki, the same prefecture as me! Not only locals are drawn to this unique environment—people from outside Hokkaido are attracted by its singular charm too.
Satisfied with the Ice Bar, I headed back to the lodge. Thanks so much!
Morning at Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan and Snowmobile Experience
Morning. I don’t sleep too well when traveling, so I woke up fairly early.
After an unremarkable (sorry!) breakfast, I headed straight out for a Kotan walk.
It’s all lake, you know. Amazing.
I’d booked a snowmobile experience when I reserved the hotel, so I decided to try it in the morning. I was looking around wondering where the instructor was when…
The instructor came riding up on a snowmobile!
I’ve seen snowmobiles on TV and in photos, but seeing them in person was a first. There were about 10 of them, but being a weekday morning rider, I had the place pretty much to myself.
Noticing I was photographing everything, the instructor offered, “Want me to take one?” Sure, why not.
The handlebar, throttle, and brake are familiar enough to anyone who’s driven a car or bike, but snow is slippery so the handlebar pulls easily. Going too fast and you’d veer off the course. It was trickier than I expected!
Nature and humans together creating a phantom village—Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan. I got to enjoy the rare scenery and experiences unique to this place.
The season runs roughly late January through late March each year, depending on ice conditions. In 2017, it was January 28 through March 20.
Parting Thoughts
Among Hokkaido’s many winter attractions, Shikaribetsu Lake Kotan stands out with a uniqueness all its own. I’d encourage you to visit at least once.
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