A Journey to Murakami “Sennen Sake Kikkawa”: Discovering the World of Salmon

I visited Murakami City in Niigata Prefecture for the first time on this trip.

I had heard of the famous Murakami beef, but it turns out Murakami is also well-known for its salmon. Records show that salmon was offered to the imperial court during the Heian period, over 1,000 years ago.

“Murakami, the City of Salmon” has a long history. According to historical texts, salmon was paid as tax to the Kyoto imperial court during the Heian period. The Miomote River, where salmon migrate, was the first place in the world to succeed in artificial salmon propagation. The people of Murakami have cherished and preserved their salmon culture with deep gratitude.
History of Miomote River and Salmon | Sennen Sake Kikkawa

Murakami is also the hometown of Olympic snowboarders Ayumu and Kaishu Hirano, who competed in the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics.

The most famous traditional salmon shop in this salmon town is Sennen Sake Kikkawa.

The current president, Mr. Shinji Kikkawa, is the 15th-generation owner. Their salmon dishes are made without any additives or chemical seasonings, using only natural ingredients, fermentation, and aging processes.

You can’t come to a place with this much history and not eat the salmon!

We rented a car from Niigata City and visited both Sennen Sake Kikkawa and its directly operated restaurant, Sennen Sake Idutsuya!

Access to Sennen Sake Kikkawa and Idutsuya

Both “Sennen Sake Kikkawa” and “Sennen Sake Idutsuya” are located near the Murakami City Hall.

It takes about 25 minutes on foot from JR Murakami Station, so driving or taking a taxi from the station is recommended. The two locations are only about a 2-minute walk apart.

Tourists can use the parking lots of the city hall and nearby facilities. It’s helpful to check the tourist parking guide on Murakami’s official website:

We used the parking lot at the Murakami Local Museum (Oshagiri Hall).

By car, it takes about 60–80 minutes from Niigata Station or Niigata Airport.

Reservations Recommended for Sennen Sake Idutsuya

The restaurant Sennen Sake Idutsuya, operated by Kikkawa, is highly recommended to visit with a reservation.

With a reservation, not only is entry guaranteed, but rice will also be freshly cooked according to your reservation time.

When I called, I was told the last order is at 14:00, but the available reservation slots are only at 11:00 and 11:15. Without a phone reservation, you can sign up on the same-day reservation sheet from 9:30 AM on the day.

For details including phone number, see the link below:

[https://www.murakamisake.com/idutsuya/

Over 1,000 Salmon Hanging in the Aging Room at “Sennen Sake Kikkawa”

We arrived a bit early, so we decided to explore inside “Sennen Sake Kikkawa” before our reservation time.

On the way, we saw a sign at Murakami Elementary School saying, “We cherish our salmon culture.” Salmon is clearly deeply rooted in the community.

A picturesque traditional house with a large “salmon” sign on the curtain. This is Sennen Sake Kikkawa.

Actress Sayuri Yoshinaga apparently did a photoshoot here for JR East’s “Otona no Kyujitsu Club” campaign. Of course, we took similar photos!

Inside, there were all kinds of salmon dishes—some I’d never seen before—like ikura (salmon roe), salt-cured salmon, and more.

A must-see is the open-aging room in the back. As soon as you enter, you’re hit with the rich aroma of salmon—and an incredible sight. Over 1,000 salmon hanging from the ceiling. Simply overwhelming!

These salmon have sustained the people of Murakami for over a thousand years. Let’s be grateful as we enjoy them.

Enjoying Salmon Cuisine at “Idutsuya,” a Historic Inn Once Visited by Matsuo Basho

At 11:15, our reservation time, we walked the short 2-minute distance from Kikkawa to the restaurant Sennen Sake Idutsuya.

Like Kikkawa, the exterior has a traditional atmosphere. Though the restaurant opened in 2017, it feels like it’s been here much longer.

This was originally an inn dating back to the Edo period, where even Matsuo Basho once stayed. Since March 2017, it has been operated by Kikkawa as “Idutsuya.”

Upon entering, you’re greeted by an irori (traditional sunken hearth). If you come without a reservation, you’ll write your name here. Since we had reserved, we were led straight in.

The interior combines a Western space with a grand piano and a traditional Japanese room with a Buddhist altar. We were seated in the Japanese-style room. (Photo shows the Western side)

We had already placed our orders when making the reservation. Soon, the pot of freshly cooked rice arrived.

With reservations, they time the rice to finish cooking just in time. At this point, it’s still steaming—leave it to rest for now.

Course options include 8 dishes (2,475 yen), 11 dishes (3,520 yen), 14 dishes (4,620 yen), 19 dishes (5,720 yen), and 22 dishes (6,820 yen). Many unique salmon dishes you’ve likely never seen—just reading the menu is exciting.

There’s also a premium “Hara-ko Don (Salmon Roe Bowl)” course for 3,895 yen.

We had pre-ordered the Hara-ko Don and 8-dish course.

The Best Salmon Dishes: Don’t Miss the Soy-Marinated Ikura and Salt-Cured Salmon

The first 5 dishes in my premium set arrived: from the right—grilled salmon in soy, prosciutto-style hand-formed sushi, simmered salmon head, dried salmon milt, and dashi tea.

My favorite was the soy-marinated grilled salmon. The flavor of the marinade combined perfectly with the grilled salmon—absolutely delicious.

Every dish had its own unique charm.

This is “sakebitashi kawa odori yaki” (grilled sake-soaked salmon skin) from the 8-dish course. Crunchy and fragrant—a dish that makes you crave sake. (Though I refrained due to driving.)

Salt-cured salmon made using traditional Murakami methods. Grilled over charcoal before serving.

It’s technically salted salmon, but the depth of flavor is far beyond anything I’ve had before. Possibly the best ever…

Around this time, the rice had finished steaming. The staff served it for us.

This is Niigata-grown Koshihikari rice, known as the best in Japan, cooked in a clay pot. Made by a master rice farmer from neighboring Sekikawa Village.

Just eating the rice on its own is heavenly. The sweetness and umami come through with each bite.

And here is the soy-marinated ikura (salmon roe) from Sennen Sake Idutsuya (Kikkawa).

Only the most flavorful ikura from late October to mid-November are selected and marinated in a special soy sauce. Since we visited in February, this was likely flash-frozen. The grains are huge!

The contrast between the rice and roe is beautiful. Even before eating, I was smiling at the sight.

Ikura has a unique umami that draws fans, but the soy-marinated ikura at Idutsuya is on another level. Unbelievably good.

I’ve had plenty of ikura in my life, but this was the best I’ve ever tasted.

The flavor of the roe and the specially prepared soy sauce complement each other perfectly.

To end the meal, we had koji pudding. Made without sugar, it had a gentle, natural sweetness.

Though it was a bit far from Niigata City, I’m really glad we made the trip. Thank you for the meal.

Final Thoughts

The salmon miso-zuke (miso-marinated salmon) in the course was delicious too, but the soy-marinated ikura left the biggest impression.

It’s seriously delicious. If you ever get the chance, try it—whether as a single dish or in a bowl.

The salt-cured salmon is also a must-try. Honestly, there’s too much to recommend. I had the chance to enjoy a level of salmon deliciousness you rarely get in daily life. The rice was also incredible.

This is a place worth traveling for, even from afar. If you’re ever in Niigata for a trip or business, make sure to stop by!